If we were neighbours, I’d gladly come over and do all your wiring. That’s my favourite part of any project! 😄 Great job on this. I’m really enjoy this series.

Good series and a great outcome Mark, I hope this furnace will play a part in many future projects, nice job. 👍😊

Good to see the machine melting some metal. It runs really well, and melts the aluminum very fast, great job on this build. I like how you fabricated that metal bracket for the air hose, that worked out well. I see the lid stop works nicely. Thanks for the shout out. Cant wait for the float lock vise build. I have had one on my 'to do' list for a while, but there is never enough time...

This has been fascinating to watch. Thanks for sharing!

Mark - What I love about your projects is that you take them 2 steps farther than I do. I tend to stop at the "good enough" stage, optimum half-assing. You're not a perfectionist or a glamorist, so I still relate to your methods and goals, but you'll add features and improve fit and finish so that each of your projects crosses over that "janky" line into "respectable". It's great to live vicariously through someone who builds things the same way I tend to, but... better. It's a real treat.

Nicely done, as usual. The fit and finish is always very good and you present in a very friendly manner.

Excellent job stem to stern. Thank you.

Like a flaming tornado in there! Wicked! 😃 Well done Preso! 👍😁👍

I swear I could feel the heat of the furnace here in England! Great result Mark, well done. 👏👏👍😎

I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER. Nice work.

👍👍 great job, Mark ! Greetings !

Hi Preso, excellent result. The service cart works well and makes everything neat and tidy. Melting metal and casting can be extremely dangerous so its paramount to be well organisedand your setup is certainly that... Regards Kevin

Great build Mark. Really impressive performance increase!

I rreally look forward to these videos.

Enjoyed….great video production/discussion/demonstration/build…….koko

Love the "matchstick" lighting method, neat idea. I would suggest checking the controls box after running for a bit of time in the areas of the speed/voltage. They may heat up and burn out without ventalation. A small computer style fan may be needed. Just don't want you to have to do all that wiring a third time! cheers!

Your attention to detail is second to none. Maybe Inheritance Machining might be a close tie. I really do appreciate the explanations and even the missteps. You should be proud of this project. I am really enjoying the series, Mark. Bravo!

Great job! With the many, many ham radio transmitters, amplifiers and such I have made over the past 40 years I wish I had a CNC router!!! Using a chassis punch for 3" diameter meters in 1/4" aluminum is a stressful workout! What a neat project mate!!! Thanks for bringing us along! We can discuss your wiring off-line!!!!

Works pretty good! Just commenting on some of the talk about flow/pressure. Flow is relative to pressure against a given restriction (nozzle). So "upgrading to a higher capacity pump", really means just increasing the pressure the pump is capable of delivering at a certain flow rate, and that in turns pushes more fuel through the restriction of that nozzle. The logic goes: - The pump provides different pressures at a certain flow rates - there will be a curve (look up "Pump Head vs. Flow graph"). - The nozzle also provides it's own Flow, given a certain Pressure. It's rated flow (eg 2.5gal/h will be at it's rated pressure, eg. 150psi, increase the pressure, you increase the flow, vice versa), there is no "efficiency" rating as you seem to have assigned it, some nozzles are designed to operate over multiple pressure ratings. - The atomisation (droplet size) and velocity of the fuel from the nozzle will be relative to its flow, but that graph isn't linear - as flow decreases (from pressure decreasing), droplet size increases with larger and larger steps until droplet size is infinite (unbroken flow) is achieved. So when sizing a system, you'll want a pump that can exceed the supply the rated nozzle flow at the given rated nozzle pressure - as you can overdrive them a bit. But, if your pump's max pressure at the nozzle's given flow rate is lacking - and ends up with less than optimal atomisation, then you don't have a lot of play room to adjust - as turning down the pump's duty cycle below 100% will cause droplet size to increase, droplet velocity to decrease, which will coalesce into larger droplets over a shorter distance, create an inefficient burn, and potentially causing unburnt fuel droplets to reach the furnace wall - which is one explanation for your ongoing fuel issue after you turn the system off, the fuel isn't atomising optimally, and you're getting leakage into the concrete - which at temperature becomes dehydrated and very pourous, which will then push some liquid/evaporated fuel back out as it cools. As a side note - you might be able to overdrive that pump a bit, since automotive charging systems often run at 14.4V, that pump will be rated for that - so should be happy enough to run at 16V, this could get your some more head room in fuel delivery. Might also pay to get a pressure gauge on that line, just so you can better inform any further optimistation choices to that fuel system, also makes dialing in "known good fuel/air ratios" a lot easier than eyeballing a knob position.

What a fantastic series! Really nice build, the ease of using diesel is a real time saver and the convenience is really a big deal. Thanks for the step by step.

Good morning Mark, Couple observations you may want to consider. A) When opening your lid, it stops while still exposing the steel cover to the edge of the inner casting which allows the flame and heat to work on the metal. Bending your lever arm a little would allow it to move out and not allowing the direct flame to ruin your steel lid over time. My past was maintenance in an Aluminum reduction and rolling mill. Our furnace lids, and openings were a high maintenance repair/replacement issue where steel being exposed to open flame and heat. B) Have you thought about an electric glow plug igniter for the nozzle? It could be wired into the circuit power and could be beneficial controlling ignition and eliminating your exposure over the open furnace and limit the amount of smoke and sut getting started. These should be readily available. Home heating oil furnaces are still in use. You've gained a lot of time for heat-up and appears will be pretty economical to run. Great build, I am enjoying your build projects and following along on this project. Thanks for sharing,

Float Lock Vise! My favorite drill press vise of all time, been using one for 30 years.

top job Preso

Looking and working great. The drill press clamp looks like a nice design. Looking forward to it 👍

My only change would be to make the fuel canister metal and maybe put metal dryer duct hose in replacement of the plastic one as well. Great job

Looking good Mark😊😊

Nice job 👏👏 Cheers Chris

This thing is looking great. I've made about a dozen natural gas kilns and there's a lot of similarities here. I get my higher temp refractories from Morgan Thermal Ceramics. They have 5 locations across Australia. I use their Cerachem and Cerachrome line, but you can pick which ever you want to get you to the temps you need. Don't go over the rated temp like some people in the comments suggest because the surface will vitrify and harden and flake off. That'll be a major issue with all that whirling wind. The other thing i noticed is the black soot flaking off in places. That's from incomplete burning, obviously. My suggestion would be to dial back the fuel until no flames are coming out of the top at all. All of that fuel is wasted and it's a sign of incomplete burning in the chamber. I would also like to see you put a ceramic coated pyrometer in there. They're cheap and with the ceramic over them they will react more slowly, the way the crucible itself does. Do some ladder testing: 50% fuel maxes out at X temp and simply won't get any hotter, 60% maxes out at Y temp, etc. Only increase your fuel when you're getting close to them and you'll get the very most out of fuel and you should see a lot less of that flaky black soot and hopefully won't have any burning at the bottom when you're done.

Easiest way to put out the torch is to have a container filled with diesel, and then submerge it. Then it is always nice and soaked with diesel next time you use it.

Very impressive ! Thank you !

I really very much like your Service Cart, and while I'd considered doing something very like it, you've really helped me make up my mind that it's something I need to do before Fall this year. Especially with my kids around, having the whole foundry arrangement as something I can easily put away and which will remain tidy during operation as well as in storage is both safer for all of us and a good behavior to model for them, frankly. Your matchstick is a stroke of genius!

Another great project done well and explained well. I was thinking your air hose connections might be 3D printed bayonet or 1/4 turn quick disconnects. Instead of cutting a hole in your tank for the fuel pump, maybe a metal plate to fit the fill opening with the pump attached and another 3D printed part, a nut, like the cap, to hold it in place. Fewer holes to worry about in the tank. Good job! Thanks for sharing.

Really cool. Another fine project, Mark. Seems like you got close to the nozzle rating. I bet that nozzle delivery rate assumes a certain temperature of the fuel. A higher fuel temp would make it less viscous and flow more at a give pressure. Regarding the continued burning after shutting down, if the level of liquid fuel in the tank is above the nozzle in the burner, and there's no check valve obstruction to overcome, fuel will likely continue to flow, even when the pump is shut down. As the fuel reaches the burner area, it warms up in the tube and likely flows really easy out of the nozzle at that point. A very light spring loaded blow back valve might offer just enough restriction to stop flow when the pump is off yet not cause enough of an impediment to affect burner operation.

Nice job mate 👍

don't forget some vent holes, those switch mode power supplies last longer when they are not hot

So much wisdom in few hours, beautifully edited, thank you, looking forward to next video

Mark, if in future you need to get 240V AC in and out of a box use the IEC13 plugs and sockets. They take up way less space and Jaycar sell them. They also avoid having trailing leads which are just one more thing to wrangle. The IEC13 power inlet can be had with a switch, a fuse and a neon indicator.

Great video, Presso! Unfortunately, my wife still says “No.”, so I’ll just have to be content watching you use yours.

Greetings from Finland. I really enjoy your videos Mark and truly appreciate that you share your expertise to everyone. I believe that many, many people me including are inspired by your projects and your know how. Thanks, Mark!

That's how my daughter got from Honolulu to Oakland last week.

Thanks for the good research I love to make the same

Looking forward to the next vid and the changes, (maybe 😉 )

Well done Mark. That’s an impressive build and I certainly gained a lot of useful knowledge from it. It’s interesting to me that it looks like you’re going to be making some clamps. I collect Australian made G clamps and have made a pattern to cast my own, first in aluminium and if that’s successful then brass. First though I’m trying my hand at lost wax casting to make an aluminium Michelin Man. I’ve made the silicone mould and the first wax copy has come out well so next is the plaster mould and so on. I’m really enjoying your channel. Cheers Stuart. Canberra.

Great job! The 3D printed parts really make it look professional.

The duct end covers are a great idea, and beautifully executed

Nice. Mine is still in parts. I have purchased a misting oil spray nozzle complete with air spinner/bracket and high voltage ceramic igniter as a unit. I also purchased a Japan nippon electromagnetic pump VSC90A5. All of this from Aliexpress. I like your setup but not the plastic fuel tank. A splatter of hot metal could melt a hole and spill diesel everywhere. I have a steel Jerry can with a modified pourer. I will use fuel hose protected with stainless steel braid, and a metal can fuel filter. A lot of the heat applied to the crucible is radiant heat from the furnace walls. Reducing the thermal mass of the furnace will reduce heating time. I plan to melt iron. Good to follow behind your project.

I'm surprised how quick it can melt aluminium. That's fast. And indeed, that was a quick sneek peek

Great build Presso! Enjoying the methodical way you build stuff! Don't change too much!

Gday Preso, absolutely brilliant result, im amazed how quick that melted the aluminium, cheers

Really satisfying to see it evolve with all the slots and holes in that enclosure.

I was watching it heat up and he dialed in the air mix and got it looking quite good of a burn, then @30:47 only moments later, he decides to DIAL UP THE FUEL!! flames start spewing out the top, bright orange and yellow flames too!! If the burning isn't happening inside the kiln, it isn't heating anything up either. Keep the flames inside and the air dialed in correctly so you get as complete of combustion as you can... not sure if you'll ever get blue torch going with your burner design but do your best to make damn sure there's no black smoke being produced... or any smoke produced at all for that matter! Anyhow you've got a real decent looking piece of kit there now and I'm sure you're going to have a blast melting all kinds of metals with it. Have fun and keep on posting the vids!

Great series, as usual Presso. Never would have considered diesel fuel for this situation, you've expanded my horizons!

Great work with a beautiful fit and finish, I can barely wait to see a heat from start to finish, enjoyed. cheers!

it's probably changed now as heating in the UK is fully metric but back when I started in the heating industry nozzle ratings were met at 100 psi fuel pressure. You had a limited amount of output adjustment by bumping up the pump pressure but that did give you better atomisation and a cleaner burn providing all the other settings were correct. There was also a ball and spring in the burner arm acting as a pressure cut off so the burner did not pee fuel and continue a dirty burn after the pump was shut down.

Love it, thank you.

There are proper fittings and clamps to suit different sizes of flexible hose. The tube fittings have a turned up flange and they are clamped together with a rubber lined cam close clamp. I have used them in different sizes on a couple of projects.

Like usual Mr P you always impress!!! Nice build and I like it when you explain what you are thinking as you build. Thank you so very much!!!! Cheers

Excellent! There’s quite a lot of chunky heat sinks on the components in the control unit so would you run a heat soak test at various pump and blower settings and check the working temperature in the control unit with the ends on? May need some airflow holes or even a small fan when running for longer periods or in the depths of the Australian summer 😀. Here in Yorkshire, heat is rarely a problem…

Grate edition to the furnace. Looking forward to the next edition. Would like for it to be a little sooner, but life gets in the way, so we get it. Thanks for sharing.

Excellent work Mark and a very enjoyable series. I look forward to seeing some castings in future videos.

The tab to locate the lid, I would have it on the lid instead of protruding from the body of the furnace. Less risk of grabbing onto something if the tab points down and is not on the lip of the furnace, no risk that the bottom of the crucible bumps into it when you are retrieving a crucible full of molten metal.

Very nice!! Great work on this project Mark !

How have u not 100k subs yet? Underated channel in the algorythm for sure. Learn so much from you Preso. Very good series and very informative too. Stay amped!!

I gave you a thumbs up because you are old and still working

Good to see such a successful outcome. Well done Mark.

this will be epic

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing the upcoming casting projects.

Nice work Mark. Great video as usual.

What a great series this has been...

Great video, not sure if you mention it, but I would recommend adding some air ventilation for the electrical box for cooling. You could add air slots in the 3d printed ends.

its remarkable how similar our furnaces behave. I felt I could have been watching mine during the lighting, melt, and residual fuel flame thingy. Looking forward to the final fit and finish.

That's one very nice looking setup. Next time you need to make the wick torch use exhaust heat wrap. Back in my fire twirling days we were too cheap to buy the good fire staff wicks and used exhaust heat wrap. Lasts for ages and only really breaks down due to dropping and abrasion.

Ooooh float lock vise a la blondihacks!

another AMAZING shop tool, impressive. I'm surprised you don't need vent holes in the electronics box. Might be a good idea to calibrate and then mark the outside of the fuel tank so you can tell how many minutes of fuel you have. Or, invent a fuel level gauge and program an Arduino to drive a digital read out to show time left for fuel and fuel flow ..... yeah right.

You could also change the potentiometer to a twin pot, then as you ramp up the air the fuel would also ramp up 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

The way I've always done it, is you clip the wire inside it's sheath of plastic, then fish the end out. Where you see the hoseclamp go over the wire. You clip it there. Then pull the 2-3" of wire out of the plastic tube it sits in. This gives you another 1/2" of plastic width to keep the actual cut end of the metal wire from springing outwards, and lets a hoseclamp work. That's how I've always done it

brilliant

A good project and a fantastic result. Have you considered a propane fuelled "weed burner" for lighting, if you have such things in Oz.

If you want a wider Hose Clamp chase up NORMA as a brand. I have used them on heavy duty Pump Suction lines over the years and should be easy to find.

All that soot suggests that the burner is running a bit rich. Other than that, congratulations on a very nice project.

I’ve been liking the burner build. Very nice and it works well. Kinda puzzled about all the soot. Maybe it’s from the impurities in the diesel. I would suggest trying kerosene. But after hearing what your diesel cost! Kerosene would be ungodly! Thanks for sharing and I’ll keep on watching.

hey there are special hose clamps for spiral hoses, in german its called "brückenschelle DIN3017" wich would roughly translate to bridge clamp for spiral hose - that could be exactly what you are looking for! (just googled, they are called bridge clamp in english too :) )

You want a bridged dust collector hose clamp.

it certainly looks capable of melting iron, i wouldn't worry too much about your refractory, it'll hold, it's just that it won't last for years if you hold it high temps for days at a time like in an industrial setup. aluminium will only take you so far!

Hi Mark. I enjoy your projects. If I may throw in an idea for the fuel tank? You already have the pump in there. Why cut more holes in it? Why not fit a gland fitting close the current opening, allowing easier fitting of the gland nut and feeding the fuel and electrical through. How often will you need to pull the pump out? Cheers.

Looks great. Change... Change... what change is this you speak of Mr Presser???

power‼

Excellent build, vid & series Preso, so when do we add the Turbo!? The “Handle Scandal”, I always thought should have been raised 200-300mm above the cart handle & in the same line so you could open it in either direction & it would be higher & out of the way of the heat exhausting. TFS & a very entertaining few hours, havta check out what else you got. Cheers

if you have old cooking oil, safe it... you can safe some money 🙂 first heat the cooking oil for 4 hours to 130C (removes all water), then filter it through a resin 3d printer filter to get all pieces out that dont belong there... buy in a store kerosin, mix it 1l kerosin to 3 liter "remastered" cooking oil and you get the same consistency as diesel, there will only be a 150 degree heat difference because of some chemicals missing, but less chemicals == less toxic 🙂

32:02 most of your fire is just above the vent hole. I lengthened the burn tube on my diesel furnace to get the hottest part of the fire in the chamber and not just above it.

I built very similar furnace, I use diesel / waste oil mix. It will burn just about anything as long as its clean. I had the same after burn problem turned out the shut off valve was leaking a little when the furnace was off and would soak the floor of the furnace with oil, eventually it burns out. It looks like your setup could siphon from the tank if the valve wasn't closed.

very nice project, thanks for sharing. GPO you must have a bit of sparky in you?

Nice way of lighting the furnace. And overall nice build and interresting miniseries :) The residual fuel that burns after you have turned it off, could it be some that has absorbed into the refractory material?

Possibly the reason for the flame continuing after everything has been shut off is the Venturi or even Sherri like affect from the flame pulling gas out of the nozzle

Good Show Mate: As per normal. Ain't success wonderful?

Great video series Mark. I had wondered if the furnace that Martin (Olfoundryman) used in his setup could be mimicked on a smaller scale and you have done just that.

Hi I enjoy build videos thanks . Could I suggest that your flame is burning too rich and thats why you are getting the yellow flame and the burning flame after you have turned it off , is unburned fuel in the bottom of your furnace . I have built a simular size furnace using diesel siphon nozzel . This means I don't need a blower or a fuel pump , just a compressor which I already had . It takes about 15 to 20 minutes to melt about 5KG of aluminuim and uses very little fuel .

That pointy finger must have hurt. Can just imagine the language :-)

Mark or anyone really have any ideas on how to cut back on the noise of a foundry furnace? The jet engine sound can be annoying to neighbors when ran for a couple hours. Thanks

Mark nice job! If wiring is hidden away, it only needs good integrity not good looks. When you shut off furnace did only pump get turned off? A hard shutoff valve may help. I am suspecting siphoning from tank to burner.???