everything is fine when you have access. I was supposed to do it outdoors, but my friend gave me access to the channel and it was easier to unscrew the screws. As for the joint, a heavy hammer helped :)

One important thing not mentioned here is that only tighten the control arm bolts once the wheels have the weight of the car on them. Otherwise the new bushings will not only fail prematurely but also make noise.

super job

Nice and easy .. Thanks for sharing !

super video, easy to follow nice job.

Enjoying this series, thanks

Keep up the good work my friend. I am also going to replace my loose suspension on our E350 wagon. This may be a little different than the S Class. As always, i enjoy your videos.

Great video!

Nice, Pete! Thanks Friend👊

Awesome man! Really helpful! Thank you!

love your video .thank you

Thanks for the video! Does the system have to be recalibrated when the control arm is replaced?

Thanks for your nice work. Is the milage for real or was it adjusted?

Thanks. When New vidéo Mercedes class S. I'm watching from France

Thanks , good work ,,but I ask you , shouldn't the wheel hub be raised to normal ride height before tightening the arm to chassis bolt to avoid putting tension on the bushing when the car is on the ground ..?

Hello sir, I have same issue with my C220, I am positive it’s my lower control arm too, but I don’t know why my local mechanic said it’s upper control arm which I don’t think is true, most of time it’s lower control arm like you say In the video 👍

Any parts code and on tge strut

🎯

Thanx Peter, ive done control arms on my CLK, bit differant as it doesnt have air suspension !!

the pop is so loud, I always hate it