Hi, I'm in Australia, sub tropics Northern Rivers, New South Wales. The humidity here is usually in the high eighties to high nineties. The problem here is we need to catch the water before the air tank as well as after, the reason being that the interior of the steel air tank rusts and after several years the area around the drain bung underneath gives out with a bang! I am converting the bog-standard Hseng style compressor with air tank with a water trap in the feed tube between the compressor and the tank. The bung is removed after every session but because the inside of the tank has been wet the rust goes to work and we know rust never sleeps. Biggest problem is the fittings for the chrome feed tube are 12mm fine thread and the water traps are standard 1/4"BSP, so I've cut the feed tube to allow nylon tube to be pushed over and then onto the barb of the 1/4 BSP fittings. Anyone in tropical areas will have this problem as the interior of the air tank is uncoated. Some have suggested converting used Aluminium Fire Extinguisher bottles but that sounds like too much trouble. Cheers.

Hello brother just wanted to tell you with any encouraging word that your videos on KZfaq have a really really moved along I progress in light of painting with my new airbrush thank you for all your help God bless you Jason

Wish everybody could see this just getting into airbrushing. Trying to understand in-line moisture and what it is needed is a big question. Thank you for the answers.

Very informative for someone just getting into airbrushing for fishing lures. Thanks

I believe you may find that the same moisture filter that is mounted at the compressor, will collect less moisture than the same filter mounted at least 50 feet down line will. The reason for this, is that the air cools more as it flows through the line. As the air cools, it can't hold as much moisture, so filters become more efficient at that point in the line. Even more so if you are working a compressor hard. Really enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work!!

I've apparently been dealing with moister in my line lately. Causing little spit dots of paint when flat coating my gunpla kits. Been driving me nuts thinking it was dry tip or something else. I have one water trap for my tankless air compressor, ended up getting a 2nd and it seems to fully fix that issue. This video helped point me in the right direction.

Usefull information! Nice video!😉👍

Thank you. I wanted moisture traps explaining well, and you succeeded. I appreciate you

Best fix i found. From the compressor I have a 50 foot hose coiled up hidden under my shelves... You will not get the majority of condensation until about 50 ft down the line where the air actually cools the most... Then i run into a shut off value where i can stop the air if i want to clean filters without draining tank. After the valve...runs to my Ingersoll Rand condensation trap psi regulator... Then runs into another oil filter... Then runs into another desiccant trap filter ....then into a Motor gaurd m30 filter. Then out to my 100 foot reel. I promise you this is the way to do it. I dont even need my desiccant filters that attach to the tool. Wish I could take a picture and post it on here.

Thank you for the video. Straight to the point. Just what I needed.

It's my first time here on your channel. I enjoyed your candor and how comprehensively you covered the topic. I'm still a novice with the airbrush, which I use for miniatures painting. Last night I got some water spraying after a decent session of putting blue on a few dozen models, which made me realize that I hadn't put a moisture trap on this gun, yet. Oops

Most helpful vid thanks

It’s mind blowing how much moisture builds up in a compressor, and it ain’t just the cheap ones. I recently became a professional at spraying finish (nitrocellulose lacquer...) and I had to upgrade my system. New compressor, guns, air lines, filters, dryers - everything. It made me go back and look at my other 3 compressor setups and start adding filters and desiccant/dryers to everything. There’s no amount of “over filtering” you can do. Clean air makes for better paint/finish. Great video!

Great tutorial as always. I also use the small traps attached to the brush. They work great for me. And I also purchased the same Fortress compressor a while back. Very nice compressor.

Thanks a lot for the info! I bought an air hose for my Iwata and it came with one of the built-in traps exactly like the one you showed in your video. Unfortunately, it doesn't have any indication of flow direction on it. No worries, thanks to you, now I know! Keep up the good work, sir!

What if you want a 20 foot airbrush line maybe a shorter hose to a moisture trap & air valve at the bench and another say 10ft hose to gun especially if you have a booth then an illustration easel next to it

I just bought the 2 gallon fortress compressor but need some help figuring out how to connect my airbrush hoses to it. I assume there is something I will need to connect the hose to the compressor but what do I need? Also I like the 4 part manifold you reviewed. Can someone help me connect this?

I have a mini minnow from FishEye on my brush along with the trap on the compressor. Going to see how they help when I do more work.

Great video thanks. Im a total novice just got my first sirbrush. Wondered what the oil-water seperator was. Have got the Gocheer 30psi non-tank airbrush so will be using the trap with it. PS: also liked and subscribed.

Do they make a Quick Disconnect Hose with moisture trap?

hi, iam totaly new to airbushes and i plan to get my first one, did i got it right u use multiple traps sometimes? are there any negative by doing so?

I know this is off subject but have you used Createx new 4053 high gloss yet? Just wondering what the end product looks like when you paint with it. I was thinking about purchasing it. Awesome video. A must know when painting. 🙂👍