Great Job! Wow 5,366 SFM! That blade is flying. Awesomeness Extreme. …by the way, Tally Ho’s Capstan brought me here, and I’m absolutely glad it did. I’ve been a machinist for more than 40 years, so I really enjoy your channel. Trying to catch up on your videos, but sometimes I seem to “mustard”, ha ha. Thank You so much for sharing your wonderful life with us.

Hi Keith. As a former belt technician I have a few ideas. 1/ lateral crown on motor pulley is much more than bottom drive pulley. When full start tightens bottom of belt and loosens upper section causing motor pulley crown to throw belt off. Flattening crown will lessen belt movement as speed ramps up. 2/ensure centre of each pulleys’ crown is aligned on same plane. 3/increase mass of motor pulley to slow motor ramp up. 4/increase flat width of pulley to help control belt travel 5/ensure lacing is square to the longitude of the belt, not just the end. 6/tighten belt further as I think its still a little loose. 7/motors or end pulleys should be able to tilt and tighten. You have only one adjustment bolt, should have 2, 1 near each set of cinch down bolts. 8/last resort is reconfigure motor to middle and run an idler pulley where you currently have your motor. More like a serpentine belt on a modern vehicle. Hope this helps.

No VFD's back in the day. The belt was trapped by forks (and later caged in) and the operator learned how to let the tensioner fall slowly to start up easy. Just like learning the clutch on a car (which everyone knew back then). Overload protection was set by the weight on the tensioner. Small weight, low power before the belt slipped. Big weight big power. Had to watch it though the plant manager didn't like it if the main shaft slowed even a tiny bit.

A VFD will also allow for braking to reduce the rundown time

Thanks, Keith! Great to see it running! The flexible conduit draped under the table is kinda unsightly... Just a thought...

It looks like the saw has the guides for the belt shifting fork. If so you could set it up with tight & loose pulleys, that way the motor would start with the belt on the loose pulley under no load and the operator could then feather the shifter to bring the saw up to speed slowly. It would be a more original style of drive and help keep the electronics to a minimum, always a good thing in my opinion.

Breaker protects the wire, starter protects the motor

Oh My...I'm not and electrician. I am so so so glad I saw this . I'm getting motor starters for my old, now new reclaimed, turn of the century machines. I currently only have them wired in directly... What a dummy I am.

I don't know but I suspect there may be a whole lot of separation anxiety when this lovely lady needs to head north to Mr. Diresta. There are so many many hours of love and care and 31 episodes in raising this child to the lady she is today and she will only get better.

Look into the Siemens Model: G120C series AC motor frequency drive, they are very good. I suggest that you re-locate the motor starter to the opposite side of the motor support table. The way it is right now, you need to go through the belt to service and/or check it. You also might want to consider running conduit instead of BX from the start / stop switch and motor starter / frequency drive system.

More progress on the resto. Good work.

2:59 NOW this time of the video I'm reminded of all the pulleys you tried to take off that were rusted to the shaft. Hopefully you put some sort of brushed preventative on the shaft before you put the pulley on for the final time?

Great to see this behemoth spinning at last! great work as ever. Thanks for sharing.

I noticed right away when you started it up that the wheels were turning sooooo smoothly! A milestone moment for this lovely old thing.

If the only problem is the startup ramp, you could simply use a Soft Starter. They can ramp up an induction motor over a couple of seconds with a configurable startup curve and are much cheaper then a VFD.

It will be good to see this bandsaw working. Thanks for all your efforts.

Great to see it working!

I have noticed reoeatedly that the audio is real good when you start but the second, and sometimes later, are much less, barely audible. In this video the second and the forth are way down in volume but others are very good. Thanks, thought you might want to know.

Black conduit instead of that unsightly drape of siver flexible would be much more in keeping with the period and look, you have done such a good job here, its worth going the extra mile; I would also run it on the back away from the belts etc. Obviously a short length of flex is needed to accomodate adjustment etc even then keep it black /brass

Good morning Keith. Great to see you back on the saw. Thanks for the videos.

Every time i see that belt lacer it brings back memories of making belts for mercury belting

It's been a long time coming but almost complete. I've enjoyed every video and can appreciate all the work you've put into this restoration. Thanks for sharing your work..

Variable Speed - Definitely, surprised you didn't start with one.

Keith one other function of a motor starter, is the safety switch. That is why the magnetic contacts. You are running it, and the power goes out, when the power comes back on, the motor won't run. Period. Not until you hit the start button. steve

with the VFD you can program dynamic breaking to stop the motor

Such talent

Your line shaft shaper in the background looks really cool. 64,000" per min is REALLY fast.

All these "old " tools few people know or have any practical use for,Thanks!

Ah, the joy of "1st run"........there's always something. A VSD and a some belt tuning will make it great!

I would have loved to see the oil time lacing staple factory, making millions of staples, somewhere having boxes, and boxes of new old stock !

Getting close to the informal gold standard: "Loudest sound is that of the sawdust hitting the floor". Great work, Keith.

can't wait to see that big boy cut something !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looking good !!

Wow! You thinned out!

Thank you for sharing.👍

Good explanation on the purpose of the starter. Easy way to remember: the circuit breaker protects the wire, the starter protects the motor.

Thank you Keith! This has been a great project!

VFD is the right choice for a bandsaw of this size.

When drilling for set screws, I use a allen screw drilled out the size of the dog point it holds the shaft and pulley in the right spot. No need to remove pulley again.

Great video thanks for sharing

that is one serious saw! Scary and awesome at once!

Great work Keith, nice seeing the band saw come to life. I think the VFD is a great idea. The machine is sure smooth and quiet.🙂 Thanks for sharing. 👍

Awesome progress. Really superb project professionally done... A labour of love

I’d like to see a shroud around those pulleys. The motor is right up at hand level.

Totally agree with going vfd.

Good job.

That flexible conduit hanging looks shoddy. Some nice rigid conduit shaped along the body lines and painted in would be much more comely.

Whew ! Getting close , I've been working on this with you a long time. Looking good, thanks for posting.

I have had good luck with the Chinesium drives, I have a 3hp drive on my lathe and a 7.5 hp on my 5hp air compressor. After replacing 8 capacitors on the air compressor caused by stuck starting contacts, I changed to a drive with 5 hp motor-the drive has enough torque capability to start the air compressor without unloader. On my lathe I mounted the keypad on the front of the headstock and added a magnetic pickup inside the gearbox so I have a direct readout of spindle rpm. I figure with the difference in cost of the Chinese drives v/s name brand i could buy 3 replacement drives and still come out ahead. Most drives have a removeable keypad that can be remote mounted. Thank you again for the information on my lathe-by luck I purchased an entire gearbox with a broken casing on E-bay-all good now.

I would check to see how much of a crown,the small pulley has.If it is sufficient,start it and,let it run for awhile to let the belt wear in,for a lack of a better phrase. It may stretch the belt in the center a bit

A beast like that needs speed control to improve usability unless it's just a museum display piece.

Great video as always.just keep doing your thing.great video.kudos 👍👍👍😎😎😎

such a machine in a woodworkshop ism enough to render anybody jaleous very good job on that machine.

A variable transformer in a black box possibly above the motor would control the speed and still be vintage. Just a big antique knob with an RPM dial rather than a DRO display.

When I worked in tap & die we used belt dressing to reduce slip. Although that might not help much considering you'll have even more rotational inertia to overcome once you install the blade and have to accelerate the upper wheel and blade as well.

There is about 5% electrical slip on the induction motor, well within the operational range of a induction motor. The 450 rpm is one quarter of the 1800 rpm for a 4 pole induction motor. The motor may load down in actual operation, but the torque will keep up. The bearings will seat in and decrease the friction after some run in.

If this is a 3 phase motor, you could look into a delta-y starter before committing to a vfd. I think a delta-y starter may give you the soft start you are looking for.

Coming right along on the restoration. You may want to shift the motor out to allow the belt to run at least center of the motor pulley vs. out on the end. It will help with deflection and the motor bearing on the shaft end. Thanks for sharing.

Great job ass always!

Keith I hear a ticking, is that from the lacing going over the pulleys? If so, I worked as a Millwright in a factory where there were miles of flat belt coveyors everywhere. And the foreman made us cut the belting on a 45 deg diagonal so that when the belting ran on the pulleys it cut the sound down. Not sure you have ever heard of this tech?

When you started the video talking about a motor starter I thought for sure you would be installing a VFD. You were only turning the lower pulley. Adding the blade will increase the starting mass even more. As others have mentioned, a belt tensioning system would be the old school way but a VFD is a much better solution today.

A flange on the motor pulley might help it from coming off , great job , super nice.

A suggestion: since your motor mount bracket plate has a few inches on the back end of the motor, you could spin this plate around to gain the inch or so needed to re- position the motor mount. Thereby gaining the correct pulley position. This would be safer than trying to make a spindle extension, that might put excessive stress on the motor spindle. Since it us always difficult to re- engineer from a line shaft to a separate motor, such difficulties are not uncommon ,as you want the belt to be centered on both pulleys. You now have the line of the belt, so use that to determine the pulley center for each pulley.

I’m curious, what is the small pulley constructed of and is it original, I have a 18” wide belt surfacer that had that prob and I changed the drive surface to rubber that didn’t slip and solved the walking problem on start up and a lot more tension on the drive belt

I loved it Mr. Rucker - Great video. Sorry about the motor offset mistake, I’ve personally seen opportunities regarding my machinery repairs in my iron shop for more design iterations. For instance, you can widen the mounting plate and have a coffee cup holder for Mr. Diresta. I dont mind the no nonsense festooning of the cabling and was surprised at your obvious location choice for the on- off switch. I always selected the latest/greatest in replacement hardware for "detailing porn" if you will. I very much appreciate the mindful restoration regarding the manufacturing period of the machine.

I agree that some sort of soft starter is needed. With a blade on the saw you're going to double the mass that needs to come up to speed. Methinks the belt would exit with the added mass.

You might be aware of an inconsistency in your volume level,but I thought I would point it out since it has been showing up in approximately the last six videos without correction.Otherwise the production quality has been excellent.Thanks for sharing Keith!👍😃

Great to see your fitness regime has been successful…you look just great! What a difference between “before” and now!

I would have to do that wiring different so that it was much more blended with the saw. Surely the wiring could have mostly been hidden inside the casting avoiding that conduit hanging on the outside like a sore thumb.

48" wheel has a circumference of 150.8 inches.. at 427 rpm.. your looking at 64,390 inches of blade per minute. or 1073 inches per second or 89 feet of blade per second.. thats a fast moving blade :)

I wasn't sure if you oiled the shaft in the babbit? I was worried, but figured you must have done something for initial testing.

Star-delta step start might be the way to go. And would you really need a slow start when the upper wheel and saw band are fitted? The extra torque needed should slow the initial rotation quite a lot (and will probably also increase the start current draw). But what will happen when you cut the power and the large amount of stored rotational inertia then drives the motor into generator mode? VFD is probably the best idea.

A couple sheet metal belt guides on the motor pulley.

wouldn't be that flat for the set screws also be necessary because else putting torque on them would deform the metal at the point of contact and makes it difficult to get the wheel of again?

Yahoo finally getting some action on Jimmy diresta bandsaw you bet vfd is necessary

Maybe just moving out the motor to center the belt would be sufficient. I don't think Jimmy will use it dayly, i assume a little slippage on the start would not destroy the belt for long time so you can avoid the soft starter.

How about bolting on some flanges to the motor pulley to stop the belt sliding off ?

It would increase the appearance so much if you could use black conduit (black painted conduit, black iron pipe???) rather than that type MC cable.

A cheap but less flexible solution is a triac driven by a MCU with optocoupler isolation.

I think the motor mount is deflecting under the starting load.

Great video as always. Have you consider a repulsion induction motor?

I know some will see adding a VFD to such an old machine as heresy but the soft start will extend the life of the machine which is a good thing. The other consideration is back in the day the electrical supply itself could well could well provide its own soft start with the lights dimming etc..

Keith will you be putting on a belt guard?

They do make a 25 amp breaker,

I think it would look good if you were to run the wiring to the on/off switch inside of the lower part of the base.

It's wonderful watching silent movies.

With a variable speed controller, given the appropriate length and type of blade, could you slow down the rpm's and cut metal?

Hi Keath saw speeds do you measure them in RPM or Feet PM some will argue RPM and some feet PM I was told by an old saw doctor that it was feet PM. Whats your answer to this, just interrested. Cheers

I have heard that paper and wood pulleys will get chewed up by the metal belt lacing. Have you had any experience with that?

Hey Keith, just something that I had as a brainstorm why couldn’t you build our machine a plate to put on the end of the pulley for the motor that would make a shoulder this way it would keep the belt from wanting to run off the end instead of leaving it With no shoulder there seems like a cheaper way to do it and not needing to have the verbal drive

😀😀😀😀😀😀

two times around 12:30 I saw you spin motor slightly. It always wanted to settle at same spot. Must be major out of ballance. ??

What’s causing the whacka whacka whacka sound? Is that the lacing in the belt?

They do make a 25 amp breaker

I realize your mounting options are limited mechanically, but I'd try to keep the moving parts (belt) away from that flexible conduit if possible. Bandsaw is looking awesome!

Square d does make a 25 amp breaker-I bought one but it was single phase. Don’t know about 3 phase breakers.

As an electrician, I am not big on the wire routing of the stop start controls, would have gone down with the wire and come back up. Rather than have it draped across the machine.

I see another bandsaw in the background! Are another group of videos in the future?

Is anyone else not seeing the comments below the video, on the newly uploaded episode 32?

was that just a pair of scissors?