Glad you enjoyed it! Good luck with your project mt friend. Des

Thank you very much!

Hi there. There's plenty where that came from! Lol. ATB, Des

Hello my friend. You're far too charitable mate. I was trying a slightly different method to what I normally do and suffice to say it went t*ts up! Take care, Des

Glad I could help! Des

hey buddy. I really appreciate you taking the time to drop by and check out my vids and for your kind words of support. Sock it to em buddy, Lol. Take care, Des

Got there in the end mate. Hope you';re having a nice day where you are. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 I wish been digging out fence post holes in the rain today lol typical scottish weather hope your days been better than mine 👍

Well, I suppose that depends how you look at it buddy. I spent most of the day in an office clicking a mouse, talking to folk on the telephone and drinking tea. I'm sure there are loads of people out there who couldn't think of anything worse. However, I love my job and get another bite at the coolade when I leave work and go and do my own thing. Each to their own.bud. Take care mate, Des

Cc v

Glad it was helpful! Des

Lol. Cheers mate. Des

Or an apprenticeship! Lol. Thanks for tuning in my friend. Des

Hi there. Definitely no stop bead required. If there are gaps between the boards on the ceiling where they meet the wall you just need to fill them with a thick mix of some Thistle Bonding plaster which sticks like STAB (**** to a blanket). Then, apply scrim tape before skimming mate. Job done. ATB, Des

Hello there my friend. Brave or daft? Could go either way lol? Best wishes,Des

I'm not disagreeing with you there! Have a great day where you are. Des

Hi ZM I hope you and yours are well. I found this very difficult on my own and damaged some of the boards. The reason for boarding over the ceiling was not due to its condition but the fact that there is no insulation above the very thin boards already up there and I wanted to improve this without removing the existing ceilings and all of the hassle associated with this. Overboarding was an obvious and easier solution. I went for the thicker 15mm thick boards. Take care my friend. Des

To follow my friend. Best wishes, Des

Hi there. Never heard of anybody cutting into an existing wall! That's nonsense my friend. Completely unnecessary. Fix with screws (not nails) and fill in any gaps on the edges with a plaster such as Thistle Bonding. Short of an earthquake it won,t go anywhere. Do NOT cut into existing wall - that's nonsense. Best of luck, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 Excellent, thanks for coming back to me and for the advice! Fingers crossed it all goes well! Cheers.

Hi there. I never got it tested to be honest. Overboarding and old Artex ceiling which contained asbestos is definitely the BEST method of dealing with it for sure. Cheap, quick and efficient. That's what I'd do. ATB, Des

21st Century Caveman very good work 👍🏽

When you screw into the asbestos, any dust which is omitted must be dealt with appropriately else this can be very dangerous.

Check these 2 vids out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nauPm5OfzeC7hI0.html&ab_channel=21stCenturyCaveman kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rclhnadeuczcoKM.html&ab_channel=21stCenturyCaveman

Hi there and thanks for watching. Response as follows .... 1) 15mm plasterboard (12.5mm will normally be fine and is the standard thickness but I used the extra thick sheets for additional insulation www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Plasterboard-Tapered-Edge---15mm-x-1-2m-x-2-4m/p/138950 2) I used 75mm but 65mm should be fine unless very high peaks on the artex 3) definitely not. The artex may contain asbestos so don't be tempted - leave wll enough alone 4) I've done a vid on tghis, see below my friend: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rclhnadeuczcoKM.html Hope above helps. ATB, Des

Hiya buddy. Depends how deep the artex ridges are. If they're nice and shallow you could give it a try with some thick lining paper and see how you get on. However, if the ridges are deep then you've got no chance. You will need to fill them in first with a plastering coat and then use the lining paper. You could use Thistle multi finish or Easifill 60 to flatten out the ridges so you've got a half decent surface to paper on. Hope this helps. Des

Hello there. Great question. I've already done a vid on this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rclhnadeuczcoKM.html Hope it helps. Take care, Des

Also, in older properties the joists tend to be some where between 400 - 450mm apart. Look for signs of previous fixings, e.g. exposed nail heads coming through , cracks along the ceiling (usually where boards butt together) - all of which will indicate where there is a joist. Use these markers and work from these. If that doesn't make sense please get back to me. ATB, Des

Yes you could buddy but note the following: - the amount of space in the room will determine whether you fix plasterboard to timber batons fixed to the wall or simply glue them on using a cartridge gun and a decent quality adhesive or adhesive foam if you use an adhesive then the artex has top be sound and strong enough to hold the plasterboard (i.e. it shoudn't be peeling or flaking) - you will need to decide what thickness plasterboard to use (i.e. 9.5mm or 12.5mm) or whether to simply use something like a tile backer board (this depends how you're going to finish off the walls, i.e. tiling or painting) - if there is likely to be condensation then avoid plasterboard Hope this helps, Des

@21stcenturycaveman33 cheers for the reply. It's only a small room so space is tight. I was hoping to use a adhesive and a few screws to hold the panels in place. The lower half of the walls are getting tiled half way up and the rest painted. I did start scraping off the loose artex but gave up as it will take forever to get it off and be very messy. Other idea I had was using a steamer but again very messy

No problem. You're welcome. Des

Yes, for sure. Top tip that mate. ATB, Des

Lol. Mr Muscles is a big pussy - just playing at it! ATB, Des

So sorry. Apologies for that. The lines indicated the centre of the joists which are the only solid things to fix the boards to when lining the ceiling. The edge of the boards should be fixed along these lines which will ensure that there is sufficient timber for the edges of each board to be fixed to. I used 75mm length drywall screws so that they could adequately fix two thicknesses of board (the existing and the new) with sufficient length left to screw into the joist. Hope this helps. Thanks for your constructive feedback. ATB, Des

Please get back tme if you have any further queries. Des

Many thanks, that really helps; I’m over boarding Artex and had already bought 50mm screws but had feeling they weren’t adequate. I should return them. The joist centre tip is very handy. Much appreciated.

My pleasure. 50mm would be fine if you were simply screwing new boards into the joists with no existing ceiling. However, when you've got to go through two thicknesses of plasterboard AND get the screws into the joists to a decent depth they won't be adequate (especially if you're going to get the new boards skimmed (there will be a bit of weight there). Good luck with your project. Best wishes, Des

Use the gaz screw in the middle of the cross of changes to cover the huge C squashed regards Turkish earthquakes

I was not drilling into the ceiling. You should not drill into this type of ceiling. However, it isn't a problem screwing into it as long as you don't pull the screws out . If they won't go in and you need to get them out squirt some shaving foam on the screw as you remove it so you can trap any dust that may come out. Best wishes, Des

Ha, ha. Glad you liked it my friend and found it entertaining. Best wishes, Des

That's certainly a possibility but there are a couple of good reasons not to. Firstly, if the points on the artex are quite long and thick. You will have to scrape them back before plastering or somehow remove them first as the thickness of plaster will be too heavy for the artex. Then you've got to think about the risk of asbestos. Never scrape this stuff unless it's tested first. Secondly, if the artex is flaking / peeling. The artex will not take the weight of the plaster and will simply bring the lot down. In these 2 scenarios - board over definitely. ATB, Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 ok can I ask u something . I’m moving into a property with old artex on the ceiling . Definitely put up before 1999 and it’s cracked . For the risk of asbestos u reckon I should ask council to cover or remove ?

Firstly, just ask them to test it or ask if they have already done so. Take it from there. I can't see many councils strapped for cash offering to get something like this removed. Best option - overboard. Best wishes, Des

Ha, ha. I must confess that my vocabulary is far more extensive than this ...... Have a great weekend where you are. Des

Exactly 😊 I was waiting for a bollocks

If you're in charge of the kettle - that's a team! It's a 'We'. Lol. ATB, Des

You da man!!! Checkout those guns dude!

Hi there and thanks for your comments. There is absolutely no problem at all over boarding an artexed ceiling which may possibly have asbestos in the artex. Indeed, this is a very common practice in the building trade and mitigates the potential dangers of releasing asbestos into the home and wider environment, not to mention the cost. To do so will not release asbestos fibres into the atmosphere as you have suggested. However, to recklessly drill into artex without taking proper precautions would clearly be stupid. If an artexed ceiling has been tested positive for asbestos and the ceiling needs to be taken down and removed, then you are correct in that it would have to be done by an asbestos removal firm. Have a great weekend where you are. ATB. Des

Meanwhile in the real world .. You have a house to renovate and every house from about 1920 to 1980 will be covered in artex. They put that shit on everything. Ceilings and walls! You will also likely have lathe and plaster ceilings that are shot and crumbling and coated in artex! The only option is to overboard it all. Yes you are exposing yourself but, really, if you want the job done, you got to accept that. Hiring in specialists costs thousands .. not realistic for most people.

Putting a screw in and drilling is 2 completely different things.

​@@cgavin1very true.. got the same issue myself at the moment, this same type of ceiling in the video has started to sag and split so my only realistic option is to batten it and overboard.

Bang to rights me Lud! ATB,Des

3 boards in 2.5 years ago Shae!! You're even slower than me ol mate! Have a great weekend where you are. ATB, des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 😂

Hi there. You raise a great point and one which is rarely discussed. However, this has been common practice for so many years now simply because it is by far the cheapest and easiest way of making something look better without the risk and mess of pulling down old ceilings. Also, if old artex does test positive for asbestos then the owner is in for a hefty bill from asbestos removal companies who specialise in removing this sort of hazardous waste. Realistically speaking, any tradesmen who goes to do work in an older property which has been renovated and has completely flat ceilings will always run the risk of cutting / drilling into something like this which may or may not contain asbestos. But it's not just ceilings that have been boarded over is it - same thing applies to ceilings and walls for that matter that have been plastered / skimmed. For those who can be bothered to think about it, it's a case of taking appropriate precautions, such as, the right PPE. Good night mate. ATB, Des

Fair point my friend. Apologies. Des

Thankfully not mate! ATB, Des

Clap for the man... I think this is how people keep costs down... Cos they have to do it by themselves. :) Pretty nifty tool. Hee hehehe....

From your rude pathetic reply I now understand why it’s “Ms”

Not as painful as actually doing it! ATB, Des

21st Century Caveman get a proper tradesman into do it!! Awful video

5.32 was Hilarious

Understand completely mate. But, as the title suggests this is a DIY job and I've got all the time in the world to do what I want, when I want. ATB, Des

Not pointless at all mate. Far from it. Your method will work but only if the artex is stable and not flaking / peeling as mine was in places. Also, not everyone is capable of skimming a ceiling like this either because they don't have the skills and knowledge or the speed to skim a ceiling before the plaster goes off. Also, a very obvious point which you fail to consider is the fact that some artex is applied very thickly so the points are very long. You can't just skim over this. Have a good day where you are. Des

@@21stcenturycaveman33 you can skim over it tho and stabilise the loose bits. If you can't skim it in time throw a bit of extra time in or some tartar sauce be sure to throw a handful of binding on the first coat tho. Will cost you a fraction of what you paid to do there and much safer as well

Bonding not binding lol

Please explain why you want me reported, fined and locked up.

I didn't see any drilling... 🤔

Well, 4 months after the event I'm still at home in my cardigan & slippers sipping a nice cup of tea. No knocks at the door yet. Vaseline at the ready ..... ;?)

@@21stcenturycaveman33 just about to try this myself for the first time I was wondering what to do around the light fitting? Do you cut the plaster board accordingly? Many thanks

@@arronedwards7178 you would use a pad saw to cut out where the futting is and pop it through. Same for any cables or plug sockets in wall 👍