hope to see the ranch fairy on some whitetail hunts this year with you guys

I like watching all of y’all’s videos, but this series with the ranch fairy has been an absolute eye opener, thanks for your hard work and great videos.

I come from a traditional background. When we bareshaft tune like this with recurves and longbows. If the nock is left like that it's a weak spine. So lighten up the point weight or cut the shaft down a bit. I quarter inch to even an eighth inch goes a LONG way! On the flip side if the nock is to the right it's stiff. So add point weight, the shaft needs to be longer, or increase the draw weight on an ILF riser if you can.

I feel like I learned more from this video than I have in all my time bow hunting

Second year bow hunting. Ranch fairy helped me get a 650ish grain arrow setup (250 spine) on a 30.5 inch draw with 75 lb (VXR) via KZfaq comments. The bow shop thought I was insane, and kept pulling out the arrow charts lol. Holy crap I’m glad I trusted in the RF 🧚‍♂️ When my arrows hit the bag target it literally tips it backwards with some serious force. My friends can’t believe the impact the arrows have, and how quiet it is compared to my old 340 spine “Twizzlers”. I’m a believer!!! Seriously though, it’s worth the effort and becomes common sense (not so common) after you invest the time in relearning.

Taking slow motion videos of your arrow launch and flight is SOOOO HELPFUL. I learned this years ago when i was filming my 6yo son shoot his BEAR compound bow. He was having flight issues. The arrow was leaving almost sideways. At 1st i thought it was just his inexperience. So i decided to take a slow motion video to see and show him what he was possibly doing wrong. To our surprise, it wasn't really him at all. 1st his notch loop was high so the arrow was aiming down a bit. 2nd his whisker biscuit was off set, so at launch it would kick the arrow sideways. I adjusted those and his accuracy skyrocketed and the biggest plus was he right then fell in love with shooting his bow. Dad life.... there is NOTHING BETTER

I wanna thank Troy for bringing the boys down for some really great hunting video entertainment. Great Job guys...

really like watching yall hunt and learn but this has got to be my favorite series so far. your getting to show so many people that there are many different ways to rig your setup just like in rifle hunting. you can use a 223 with a blazing fast little pill or shoot a 45-70 that doesn't ask questions.

Love this stuff. Just turned 50, bought my first bow (elite Kure.) I have put over 1000 arrows down range. I bought from the shop I thought would work with me. Mind you he never had me shoot my bow through paper. Found the RF and reached out to my shop and said “hey can I get a dozen victory rip elites 300 spine. I want to work on increasing the weight.” Shop guy scoffed! “You just need to shoot the set up I gave you. It is tuned perfectly and spine is perfect. Just get you a 100g mechanical and you are set. I have killed a bunch of deer.” The set up he sold me is a 100g field point total weight 390g victory 340 spine rip gamer. That is a pro shop failure... I am a curious person. I cut the fletching off all the arrows he sold me. Shot every arrow, 20 times through paper at specific distances with “the perfect set up he gave me.” EVery arrow high right tear between 3 and 4 inches! This is the reason I bought a Kure. I raised the rest, turned slightly more than a quarter on the Kure set tech, shot 20 times each arrow and now the bow shoots bullet holes... most of the time. Now that the bow shoots right, I am moving on to buying my shafts from someone else and working on increasing to the single bevel I want to shoot. Keep up the great work.

I dig this stuff. I often play with head weight for a decent spine reaction but I also "force" my bow to shoot within 25g of my desired arrow weight. Currently I have my bow drilling a 520g arrow and I can adjust head weight up to 600g total. With a little more tinkering you can tune your bow for just about any arrow/head weight. Sometimes it means measuring center shot, messing with the rest and playing with draw weight but I always figure it out. Often without a bow press. This is a great start for spine tuning, I'm glad Troy and THP are showing the world how this works.

Hey RF, I used to shoot compound bows years ago shooting targets and loved it. Unfortunately I suffered a shoulder injury a few years ago and my compound bow days are over before I even got to go on my first archery hunt. I quit rifle hunting after my first season after being shot at by a hung over, still half drunk hunter. I haven't even been able to kill my first deer or elk yet. So I am not the type to ever quit on my passions. I just recently purchased a crossbow and look forward to hunting with it this year. I have watched many of your videos and there is so much to learn these days. All the equipment has changed so much and it is hard to keep up. So I have jumped in with both feet ( and thousands of $$$!). So, here is some of what I have learned so far and will be taking to the field for my first hunt. First, I shoot my bow every day, I try to shoot 50 arrows if my shoulder will allow it. I have my groups at around 1-1/2" up to 40 yards. That's the farthest I can shoot in my back yard, but if I am a responsible hunter, I won't take a shot over 50 yards anyway. Second, I will always use fixed blade cut on contact broadheads. I currently own the Magnus Stinger 4 blade 125gr. My bow loves 22" Victory arrows made at the factory for Mission crossbows. I ran across these arrows completely by accident when I purchased a Mission crossbow accessory kit. I bought that kit just for Hawke XB-1 scope and it came with 3 Victory arrows. I now own 12 of these amazing arrows. The Magnus broadheads fly like a laser beam and are amazingly durable as you know. My hunting arrows are 462gr total with a 19.3% FOC shooting at around 360fps which delivers aprox. 125 ft lbs of energy. Would love to know your opinion and if you have any suggestions or advise, I'm all ears. As you can see I am currently using factory arrows, factory fletched, and with factory inserts. I purchased a Bitzenburger fletching tool and have it set up for crossbow arrows and have been practicing. I find it difficult to find the different parts to build my own crossbow arrows. From the half moon nocks, to heavier inserts etc. Especially since I am limited to the heavier spined arrows for shooting 360+- fps. But I am still learning and look forward to building some arrows from the ground up with proper tuning! I also have a medical background, It started as a volunteer firefighter, then an EMT-B, and became a paramedic. I love when you do piggy autopsies so we can see exactly how the broadheads perform. That is why I will only use fixed, cut on contact broadheads. That way, the only thing that can fuck up is me!! Going to pick up some Iron Will heads too! Anywhoo, thanks so much for all your hard work and taking the time to help guys like me. I feel confident that with your help and the help of others, that my first hunt will be successful! Oh, and do me a favor, if you hear the word "bolt" when someone if referring to crossbows, please slap them upside their head for me! It's a fucking arrow!! LOL Thanks!!

Brother I learned so much from watching your videos I really enjoy him I'm a Texas country boy myself One day maybe I'll get to meet you Keep them videos coming keep the Arrows flying.

My luck: Do all the tuning get the perfect flight, don't see a single deer all year lol Thanks for the awesome videos with the Ranch Fairy the man is a wealth of knowledge!

I myself happen to be a common porch folk so I liked that alot. Great instruction for some great applications. Tuffheads look pretty serious. Hmmm....

I dream of a day when people actually take time to tune their arrows to their set-up. I've seen SO many people leave a shop with the same fast bow, snazzy arrows, 100gr heads and no thought to whether any of it plays well together. Keep up the good gospel work, fellas. Appreciate your efforts!

A fast and dirty French walk back tuning is just another step once you done with that you can fine tune with bare shaft tuning rather quickly and get great broadhead flight out of some large fixed blade heads. Just as squaring everything up as first step reduces general issues. There is a reason why the Pros use these methods - they save time when applied for proper training.

Had a cheap chinese bow and wanted to upgrade it, ended up getting a new Bear Adapt and found out that you guys are founders of it. Totally love it guys!

RF - thank you!! I’ve worked through the Bareshaft process through Sirius and recently put on evolution 2.0 broadheads. Field point and broadheads are spot on! THP I’ve enjoyed the evolution of your arrow setups as well.

I got a new bow this year, bare shaft tuned 3 times and finally got it right the third time. Thanks for all of the advice

Got the ranch fairy test kit from Sirius archery. I’m setting up the arrows and testing this weekend. Can’t wait!

Ranch Fairy, I'm going to show all of my students with ADHD your videos to prove to them that you can be extremely successful even if they hate school. I hadn't watched a lot of your videos because the thumbnails always seemed click baitish, but I love what you just did here with the Hunting Public.

Thanks for the introduction to the big RF. He’s awesome. thanks for what you do.

Can't wait for you to stick one of those arrows in a big whitetail this fall.

Dude these are my favorite videos lately. Heavy arrows and how to tune your own bow. Finally. Thank you Jesus

Just started to get into archery been getting ready for the season to start. And id like to say this is one of the first videos i understood. Any other tuning video ive watched goes from simple to real complex real damn quick

The first time you bare shaft tune and everything comes together, it is mesmerizing. I kept shooting the bare shaft over and over trying to get it to lie to me, but it kept going in straight. If you get the the point where it sometimes flies perfect and other times, not as perfect, most likely it is YOU, not the arrow set up. A bare shaft that is not set up with the right point weight will NEVER fly right. Bring on the "quartering to" shots. Deer Kebab season starts in one week here. Keep posting the interesting videos.

As a normal dude that shoots in the humid. Absolutely love this video

You guys are awesome, RF's series on tuning gave me the confidence to "mess with my bow" thank you guys. No more twizzlers or flappers for this guy

For the bass fisherman these people are basically the big swimbait guys of hunting

NICE! Shooting Recurves and Longbows for going on 40 years, We always believe in HIGH FOC. 100 grain Brass inserts and from 150 to 200 grain broad heads . I shot a Doe with a 45# Longbow Douglas Fir Wooden Arrow 50/55 # spine cut to 28". 250 grain Tusker Concorde [ from Australia ] broad head. 22yards she ducked on the shot. I severed her spine. Easy recovery! Jake for Your Longbow, IMHO the best shooting Carbons out of Traditional Bows is a Gold Tip Traditional 500 35/55 if Your Longbow is around 50#s .Cut an inch longer than your draw length. Standard 35/45 gn insert with a Magnus Stinger 150 gn. Please try to do more Traditional Archery Hunts. That Bow Shop You Folks go to has a Bear Kodiak Recurve hanging for sale. I saw it on the wall when Warb was paper tuning. You should try shooting that bow next time you go up there. Keep up the great videos! My Bud Ron from KME knows Ranch Fairy apparently.

The Ranch Fairy dropping fact nuggets in your cereal!

I needed this video. I got my grip mostly under control and I get a constant nock left like Jake did with my 29.5inch long 300spine. I've got the Sirius 250/300 on order hopefully I can get mine flying like darts!

Absolutely love it!

I NEED the ranch fairy in more videos, just like I need air to breathe.... all around enjoyable educational content. I’d pay for him to watch me shoot for half a day. Would be better spent money then buying a new set up!!

Wow, that was a big difference from start to end.

I like everything about this video! Problem is that I have a lack of time and money. I'm already invested in what I have for arrows.

7:33 the arrow naturally wanted to spin left out of that bow, fletchings are forcing it to spin right. You can see it’ll come out of the bow spinning left then after about 3-5 yards it’ll stop spinning and start spinning right. Not a huge deal but you’ll absolutely get more consistent arrow flight and quicker arrow stabilization if you make sure your arrows are fletched the right way. Easiest way to check is to get a bare shaft and nock it onto the string, mark the top of the nock with a sharpie and shoot it into a target at 2-3 yards, check which way the nock spun and then fletch your arrows accordingly!

gotta try that anchor thanks

The details of tuning Jake's bow were practical, fascinating, and VERY helpful. I didn't hear a single word about how the final changes may have affected Jake's arrow speed, which is an issue that-in my limited experience-is WAY overemphasized. Earlier footage in this great Ranch Fairy/THP series showed that no bow, regardless of its speed, is going to beat an animal's "ducking." Unless I'm confused (entirely possible), you have made a virtually ironclad argument that straight arrow flight, accuracy, and penetration are far more important in hunting.

I hope that the people who may be just getting in to bow hunting picked up on a great tip here. Practice at many different yardages and discipline yourself to stay in the range that you can ethically kill an animal. Nice job guys. Be safe everybody

Ranch fairy never gets old the dude is a wizard 👌

Traditional archers knew about bare shaft testing for a while now. Look up Black Widow archery with Ken Beck and you'll learn all types of things about arrow paradox and tuning.

Big fan of his average archer approach. Only things I'd add are to have a shop ensure your cams are timed right and rest is at or very close to centershot. After that I do exactly how he does it. Couple shots through paper and then go out and shoot bareshafts 10-20yds at a target and check flight. Average archers need to be aware that your form will influence a bareshaft A LOT so shoot the same setup a few times and check for consistency before make adjustments otherwise you'll chase yourself around...I've done this and it's frustrating haha

Watching y'all's videos got me ditching my 400 carbons (30" draw) and 100 grain fixed heads and going to 350 carbons and 150-160 grain fixed heads. I never shoot past 20 yards (mainly because I just ain't that good with a bow lol). Besides, it's fun to mess around with different setups and it's good practice.

God loves Ranch fairy 🧚‍♀️

That's what I wound up having a perfect bullet hole with 27.5 inch arrow, but with a 300 spine. 62 lb draw. It's a beast but perfect bullet holes bare shaft. Going to use Aboyer single bevels, which are fabulous-looking heads

I’ve been watching these videos and decided to do it. Ordered the ranch fairy special the other day. Can’t wait to try it out. Although I would be nice to have all the stuff that you guys have at the test lab. (Tons of broad heads and arrows to test) Great vid thanks for the help!

I love this common sense blue collar mentality on tuning a bow.

NEW SUBSCRIBER a whole lot of knoledge right there

See the only problem I have with it is your arrow takes forever to get there so of course your animal is going to move. They always move but with a fast arrow I’m blowing straight through. I guess you can talk about the majority maybe you have one flapper that hits a bone out of 100. But I’ll keep my rage twizler shooting 340ft per second

Love the RF!

I'm walking in heavy this season for sure.

Knock high/low can be more than a rest timing or rest movement. You should always make sure the timing of your cams are set correctly, especially before moving the rest to correct a nock high or low result. You could end up chasing your tail all day. I get that tinkering may "work" ( masking issues). At a longer draw length, it's very common to get a nock low tear due to nock pinch from the extreme angle of the string at the d loop. So tinkering isn't always the answer, do some research first or take it to someone that knows

love the wisconsin shirt

Digging these ranch fairy vids

I’m really starting to embrace a heavier FOC arrow. Not a monster 650 or bigger but about 500 is where I’m starting. Thanks for the content!

I'm tinkering with a biw now that I thought I had figured out and like said he told me to keep at it start over and don't quit. No for pig shot with Jack's new set up video!

Good stuff! Can’t wait to see your success this fall with all your new arrow set ups.

I have an almost IDENTICAL set up as Jake. Bear Kuma LD except a 30.5" draw. I was having the EXACT same problem with a nock low and left tear. Crazy how individualistic some models can be. I ended up with a 30" arrow with a 100gr insert and 125gr tip. Still left a little nock low tear, but it was good enough for me.

Horizontal follow the broadhead vertical go opposite of the broadhead, and re sight in. It is mentioned incorrectly in the video

Great job Jake!!! Isn't it fun shooting lower poundage!!!?

I got my bare shafts flying great left to right but my bare shafts are coming in nock low. I’ve tried moving the d loop up and down probably a hundred times. I’ve also tried different weight up front, lowering the poundage, adjusting my form. Only thing that helped a little was moving the d loop. I did try shooting a magnus hornet into duck tape with a feildpoint arrow shot beside it. It turned out great but my bareshafts are nock low and it driving me crazy.

Ranch fairy needs to open up a archery shop!

Ranch Fairy is the GOD of 🏹 ARROWS!!! #thehuntingpublic

Another great vid with frank advice!

Nock tuning WORKS!!!

When I got my first bow I went to the local archery shop and had them tune it and when they asked what broadheads I wanted I told them I wanted to shoot a fixed blade and all three of them laughed and told me to go with the new rage hypodermics or a grim reaper mechanical. I told them I’d rather go with a fixed blade because whatever can go wrong will eventually go wrong and I’d rather not take the chance on them not expanding. They pretty much belittled me and told me how reliable all mechanicals were. About 2 weeks into hunting season I went back and a dude was buying new fixed blades and he said they talked him into buying the Hypodermics and he shot a buck 2 times and neither of the broadheads expanded. He got lucky and killed the deer and had pictures to prove it, but the hunter told that story and I’m pretty sure all three workers since then have switched and went to a fixed blade.

With a big flat broadhead, of course you need to dial the draw weight down. Fast bows and big broadheads cause poor arrow flight. A sloth can string jump that setup.

Awesome Work as always guys!

Love this series

Sweet video! Sweet tips 👍💯

Cant wait to see Jake smoke a 200" whitetail this October with that setup

I got the ranch fairy special a few weeks ago, some 100-200 grain inserts from Ethics Archery and my 300 spine arrows are supposed to come Monday. Enough of the flappers and twizzlers.

Good information, thanks for sharing!

I sure miss hearing Bobwhite quail where I live. ( I heard some in the video) Yea, I don’t get distracted much…. HaHa….

Love this video,a lot of help

Poundage and speed mean nothing.. Numbers are numbers some people get to focused on what someone else said works the best but everyone is different and every bow setup is different. Thanks for all the great videos guys.. May your arrows fly true and your broadheads always be sharp!!

I'm currently shooting a bear areana 30 3/4 and it's a 60 pound bow but it's shooting better at about 58lbs with a 30 inch draw and 475 to 500 grain 350 spine arrow. But have not started yet with my bare shaft tinkering ... So after that we shall see what is what then....lol

Now y’all need to be converted to the ezv sight!

Jake slinging telephone poles. That’s wicked.

Been waiting for this video since Ted got his arrows changed

So what is the difference from what you guys are doing and paper tuning? Like I'm watching it and trying to figure out if I need to do this after paper tuning or before or not at all?

Bowtech deadlock cam system will fix all your problems. Just move the cams left or right !!

Thanks keep up the great content!

thanks for sharing!

Can all of this be done even if we use a whisker biscuit rest? Or should I look into a drop away? Thanks for the great video

Have just recently found your videos and am really enjoying them. I am thinking about following some of your advice. This video has me wondering, before any adjustments are made is there a particular rest that needs to be utilized?

Dude, I wanna hang out with that guy!

You understand heavier point weight reduces the spine?

Slow hit is better than a fast miss!

I have to ask this question out of 1000% ignorance. First I don't shoot a vertical bow, but crossbows, because of that I don't know much about using a vertical bow. My question is did changing the poundage affect anything related to drawing other ease? Something like anchor point etc?

Great info.

Better do that with the broadheads on as well.

Cool stuff great video later thanks

Surprised that Jake's heavier poundage bow shoots lighter splined arrows that Ted's bow. Interesting!

Do you need a weighted insert if you’re shooting a 250g broad head?!?

Have you guys ever came across an Accu Rest compound bow? It shoots a 4" arrow where the fletchings are the blades? Curious on how to find the F.O.C and other specs....?

Love It!!

RF has been too busy to make a video addressing the haters...but I'm sure it's coming...hang on to your hats, boys!! 🤣🤣🤣!!!

So I bought a ranch fairy test kit. Every bare shaft arrow/field point combo I shoot is tail high. Took it to the bow shop and they adjusted the D loop cause it was low and my timing was slightly off. Came home shot the arrows again and same thing all tail high. What is going on? Please help. 😩