I'm glad you like my explanation, it mean a lot coming from a guy who is using vacuum fixturing for almost 25 years! You made me curious, you use vacuum bags for gluing/ laminating parts not for fixturing them to cnc machine?

@@PiotrFoxWysocki At the moment I don't have a CNC machine. But I have helped a machine shop develop exactly what you have in your video 5 years ago to cut out trim plates for high end loudspeakers. The difference in the vacuum plate is that they used a ball end mill instead of your square end mill. "O"ring material was used for the gasket exactly the way you used your silicone lid gasket. They used a compressed air venturi pump. They had a large compressor already. It was not that noisy. My usage for clamping is on my KZfaq channel if you are interested.

thank you for the answer. i will watch your videos!

@Chris Donnelly Thank you, I'm close to finish my next video about vacuum fixture, custom made gaskets and milling on it. Its like taking vacuum work holding to the next level :)

Maybe its not much, but I'm quite proud of this discovery :)

Nitrile Rubber Cord 4 - 6 mm and use loctite flex to glue it together

Be careful, once you upgrade your cnc, you will keep upgrading it. There is no coming back from that ;)

@Owen Sparks got a link to the plastic your using, sounds interesting

I'm glad it was useful somehow. btw. please try not to spill too much blood over this router, you need some for your self :)

I'm glad you found it informative, but I might not work so well for wood.it could if you paint the underside of the wood you will mill. It might be worth it if the milling takes a long time

actually this is pretty genius idea! so there are 4 ways of sealing a vacuum plate :)

recently i had to mill over 400 large pockets in 125x6mm flat bars (you have seen it on instagram) it chattered like crazy even if it was clamped every 10cm all around. this was the reason to make my vacuum plate. and i also need it for my projects. there are few different designs of vacuum plates. mine is the simplest one. I milled it out of 6061 rolled aluminium. there are few cases where you have to run vacuum pump constantly on a very particular designs of vacuum plates. On some videos i have seen on a youtube, people running pump all the time for no good reason on a plate which doesn't require it. once you pulled the vacuum and your gasket doesn't have a leak you don't need to pump any longer.

You can see the hole porting vacuum to the top around 3:10.

actually its a single piece vacuum plate. it has drilled long hole from the side and than short hole from the top to connect those two(small hole inside the sealed area at the top, i forget to mention about it.). whatever you see on the video, that is all. i have been thinking about adding a filter inside the pressure pot on the vacuum pump intake. just in case chips get agitated and start flying all around. i guess sensor would be a nice gadget, but i will go with a absolute minimum to do the job properly. if i find that this is a problem than will look for solution.

You can see the hole porting vacuum to the top around 3:10.

I stared at 11:34 and only one thing which i can possibly see is a lens distortion. if you could give me a hint where to look, perhaps i could notice it as well

When pressure is being applied, I am sure the middle of the acrylic comes down more than the very outside of the screen... I wonder if the pressure is distorting the acrylic when it's being applied? I can see a gap between the acrylic and the aluminium at the edge of the screen, but they appear to touch in the middle. Perhaps some open gasket in the spare channels inside the closed gasket would provide some physical support and prevent this (apparent) distortion of the workpiece. (Obviously aluminium at any real thickness wouldn't have this issue)

www.ebay.com/bhp/pressure-pot get one which looks like mine.

sorry for the confusion, i should explain it better. this is a solid piece of aluminium with grid milled on the top. there is one hole for the vacuum inside the gasket parameter. there are few designs of the vacuum plates and this one is the simplest.

Okay, that makes sense now. Thank you.

Probably titanium nitride.

drill press and a drill :) i didn't drill to the center just around 10cm deep and then i drilled a small hole from the top.

My pressure pot was 10 liters. I used it to store large volume of vacuum just in case there is a leak under the part im cutting. Also as a separator for coolant and chips. I guess it should work for the venturi pump as well. So you store your vacuum and turn of the compressor.

this is a solid block of aluminium with groves on the top, those groves work as a vacuum void. i have made another video about vacuum fixture kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m59kZMmru9mUnmg.html i hope it can clarify whole concept a bit better.

Any vacuum pump is enough. It just a matter of tim how long it qould take to have full vacuum. The amout of air it has to suck out is minimal even for masive plates. Vacuum hose will have more air in it than vacuum plate.

@@PiotrFoxWysocki This type of pumps have a adjustment vacuum pressure regulator in order to stop pump running or is not necessary?

Nope. You have to put a manual valve on the plate or somwhere after the pump. Because if you turn off the pump you will start loosing the vacuum. Not a big problem really

Not sure if I understand what you mean.

@@PiotrFoxWysocki , for sealing because the come in all sizes, and ends can be glued with crazy glue. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/O-ring

In general, cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerises in the presence of water. so it doesn't sound very flexible.. and as far i remember it crystallizes. I guess it would glue a rubber together but once rubber is compressed it should crack and break off. this is just theoretical divagation, but since I'm not a chemist i would recommend to test if it works and how long.

Sure. But the glue point might leak. So just in case, vacuum pump have to be turned on continiously. Beside you might not be able to get nitrite rubber cord easly. But those containers are everywhere. You know. In case of urgency.

it depends from the shape of the gasket. idea is to have grove deep enough that once you put something on the top gasket compresses to fill the grove and its not pinching on any of the edges. bigger grove bigger gasket and it can stick out more.

@@PiotrFoxWysocki thank you for your answer. I will go with 3.2 mm deep for 4 mm wide groove. I will use soft rubber cord, 4 mm. Hopefully that will work.

Mill at this depth. Test and than you can run again a bit lower if it's pinching.

Chinese vice, more about it you can see on this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m8qgZK1-sMi1mqM.html all the details in the video description

I only can have hope I didn't disappointed you too much ;)

When i made this vacuum plate i was just after chickenpox, I was looking like zombie and last thing on my mind was turning the camera on :) Anyway it would be a very boring video, facing, facing, 2h of slot cutting and milling few holes. I wanted to focus on the idea behind it, rather than how to make one.

actually its a single piece vacuum plate. it has drilled long hole from the side and than short hole from the top to connect those two(small hole inside the sealed area at the top, i forget to mention about it.). whatever you see on the video, that is all is there.

thanks @@PiotrFoxWysocki So you have just one single vacuum port. I just rewatched part ofthe video. And now I understand. I personally wood and at least one better 2 vaccum ports. So it is possible to hold 2 parts, inner and outer part...

i thought i did. i fill them up with 2 part silicone. once it sets you can take it in and out from the holes .

i would start with 3.3mm. because when you squeeze silicone cord will fill the whole square cavity. if it doesn't fully fit. than you try deeper. i did mine on 3.5 i think.