Thanks. Much appreciated.

Where did you buy them ?? And exactly what do get ??

It's hard work but very rewarding. I can feel it when silently I zip through a line of traffic to get straight to the first on the line to go! And yes, lane splitting is legal here! :)

That is awesome. I have an e-bike with a mid-drive bbshd and i love it. I'm way faster than cars stuck in traffic jams. and those are very often here in the big city :) cheers.

You are awesome I love watching your videos! You have been an inspiration!! Keep it up

I also have two sets of the Skil 18 volt tools. I could make a Makita battery adapter and keep using the Skil for years. The Skil tools do work great.

Thank you.

Thanks Oscar. :D

when you say "the goal might well have been accomplished more simply" - can you please explain how so? I'm very interested, but don't want to create the mold.

Yoiks! What was I thinking a year ago? Lesseee… The intermediate steps are the making of the negative of the battery terminals and baseplate, plus the pouring of the resin for the positive block that holds the blades of the connectors. That seems to have taken 10 hours for the cure time alone. IIR(emember)C, I thought it would be easier to make the eventual block directly, in one step, using the silicone+cornstarch, pre-positioned blades (with soldered or screwed-down connectors, appropriate dams and dikes, directly on the charger. The inclusion of the locking interface on the connector shown (created) in the video is a nice touch, but it shouldn't be necessary -- strictly speaking. You need 'just enough' of the physical dimensions of the charger interface (the negative space of the battery, in a sense), where the business gets transacted, to be included in the eventual block. The block serves to translate a particular (proprietary) arrangement of conductive blades and sheaths to a more commonly-available connector. Creating the block out of silicone, directly, saves many hours of waiting, and is more economical and produces less waste. Also, since the silicone+cornstarch cures quickly, it's a quick process to create a new one should it be necessary. Not knocking the video nor the creator of the video; there's a lot of useful information and insight in there. However, simpler is usually better, as long as the result is fit for purpose.

Yes, 3D printer cost a lot. Not only the printer but also the filaments (ink). Also, this is not a single piece of plastic. It has metal clips embedded inside it. How do you mount the 2 metal clips onto the dock? (I assume your 3D printer cannot print metal?). The advantage of making a mold is once you get a good mold, you can make as many copies as you want, much faster and much cheaper than printing.

My first version, I made channels for some flattened copper tubing. The latest revision will use quick-disconnect terminals (crimped).

vuaeco you can get 3D printers now for about $100 with free US shipping on ebay.

Link to stl files?

Thanks Chef. All this stuff was purchased from Lowe's with the exception of the corn starch which I stole from my wife! Home Depot would sell the same things but I used Lowe's because I had coupons and discounted gift cards that significantly reduced the cost.

Cool, thanks. I might try this because I simply can't help myself. lol

Great! If you need help, just message me and I'll help you if I can.

Cool, I'll keep that in mind. :)

Don't know if its a coincidence or not but I've been also thinking about making a smaller ebike. One that's small enough for small children to ride. But comfortable enough for an adult so that I can bring it boxed and checked in baggage to an airport when I'm flying. That way, when I get off the airport, I just need to unbox my ebike and off I go. No need for a taxi, uber, or waste anyone of my family time to come and pick me up at the destination airport. That would be a cool way to travel!

+vuaeco I'll stay tuned to see what you come up with. Maybe, one if these days, I'll be able to return the favor and have an idea that you find useful.

.....the piece is on only for discharge....is what I meant to say.

1. Yes, a less screwupable alternative is to use a block of wood and embed aluminum clips in it. I made that video a while back and you can see it here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n-Byd8V8x7XOaas.html 2. The middle clip is for charging only-without removing the battery. But then I'll need to connect the clips to the 3 pins on my charger to charge it. The middle clip is not necessary to be on the casting mold. You can just remove the battery and put in your charger to charge it.

+vuaeco ok....I understand now. I was assuming that you were going to pull the batteries to charge....but you don't need to with the middle clip in.....got it! thanks. Every time I think you haven't thought something through, you prove me wrong.

LOL

Yes, it was all measured by eyeballs :)

Thanks for your video . It inspired me to make 15 epoxy/mesh adapter plates to convert my old Makita tools to use Lithium slide batts

I need one of these adapters with a 3d mold. I do not have a printer. Want to sell me a finished product?

a 3d prited version would not be a rugid

Good choice.

You can use these for your 36V motor. But you probably need to upgrade your motor controller to 48V. Installing these on a 36V controller might burn it.

HF drill is ok, not a lot cheaper though. They have brushed motors. But the biggest downside is they are 20V, not 24V. Most electric vehicles are 12/24/48 or 72V. So 20V is like an odd ball. :D

Not in the year of 2017