@Ahmed_Ismail Same, I think software part making the wheel actually work in games is a huge pain in the ass.

feels worse imo since you built it so you recognise all the faults easily every time you use it

The initial feeling IT WORKS is amazing but the frustration sets in once you have to iterate over the same problem over and over again or everything works and something eventually breaks... or you made a component with a huge amount of effort only to find out it doesn't work/fit or is useless. Not to mention some safety concerns during and after creation ( electrical stuff) I kind of stopped tinkering due to the amount of parts i've slowly been hoarding for future projects that never happened. Yea it's nice but only for a brief moment in time

@@wrth then you keep making it better

Your right, my old saying is doing it your self cost more and is not as good hahaha

What’s stopping you?

Bro I bet for 300-500$ you can build wheel that will be better than the most expensive professional wheel like the best fanatec. No, I am not kidding.

@@Ma7hew Yeah maybe but it's not something most people could do. I'm sure putting the hardware together is easy enough but I imagine the software/compatibility side of it would be way too much for most people.

@@burgerbait can't disagree with that. You're right

​@@burgerbaitThere are open source software out there which people have developed over years and available for free

I'm not sure about the pedals because I already had most of the parts. The wheelbase probably cost about US$250 to make, then the momo steering wheel is another US$250, but there are much cheaper wheels you can buy.

The electeonics - it's an STM32F407 flashed with MMOSffb firmware. Yeah a load cell is better at simulating brakepads against a brake rotor. I have seen people put a small vibration motor on the break pedal, pretty cool idea.

Yeah I've gone through phases of using both views. Depends if I am in a sim racing mood or an arcade mood.

I feel like if there's only one person in the world who clearly understands how the different views work in racing games, it's the guy who literally built his own force feedback wheel.

Sometimes it's fun to see the car you're driving

Thanks, I thought about crafting a shifter, but ended up buying a Thrustmaster TH8A

@@46449771 love it so cool i have printed a few parts for my G29 but not like this but i did see a handbrake u can print i see u made one all ready

Yeah the wheel spins nice and fast, I've actually spent most of my time using it for drifting. I've never used a direct drive wheel, so I can't tell you how it compares. I have no regrets with my build though.

now THAT id like to see

Yeah people have done it. It's a much easier project to put together, but very expensive.

With high power motors and metal chains you need to remember that the wheel can suddenly get an idea to spin around at full speed and break your arm if you’re not careful. That’s the danger going for higher and higher FFB. It’s also the reason why all the direct drive wheels come with panic switch/kill switch you can slam with your free arm if something goes wrong. With belt drive it can at least in theory slip and save a bone from breaking, metal chain and direct drive on the other hand… ouch. Logitech plastic gears just drop their teeth I guess lol.

The belts I've used are similar to what 3D printers use. The force dampening thing is a weird misconception in the Sim Racing community. If belts were springy, then it wouldn't be possible to make super accurate 3D prints like we can do on our 3D printers. It's a super rigid setup! I guess one advantage of DD could be that you get more fine control of the motor compared to a brushed DC motor.

Hey, the encoder is a 2000PR, E6B2, CWZ6C. The motor driver is a BTS7960, the motors are XD-3420, 12V, 3500RPM. I am very happy with the quality of the FFB, some people might want more torque than this can output, but I'm happy with this being more of a game than a simulator for me.

​@@46449771 Thank you! If I may ask one, or two more questions... I'm trying to work out the maths for rpm and torque on this baby. What is your output torque and your RPM at the wheel? How did you calculate this? If I'm correct, 1:5:1:5 ratio gives you a 1:25 ratio? When I'm assuming 280RPM at the wheel, I'm getting: 3500RPM X 2 = 7000RPM / 280RPM = 25 (your ratio) Then: 0.24Nm x 2 = 0.48Nm x 25 = 12Nm of torque? Is this correct? Finally- at what percentage do you then run this in software? Full 100% Thanks mate! Your's was the 1st vid I've watched on all this, and I am going to tame this DiY Sim beast! L0L! I'm doing this project for my boys.

@@46449771 Thanks again mate. I actually decided to buy a planetary gearbox(13:1 ratio) for my little 12V/24V 895 motor(3000RPM/6000RPM, 0.45Nm torque) , instead of diving into belts and pulleys head-first. I'm driving it off a 12V/670w/54Amp PSU. Since this is my first build, I didn't want to get too complicated. This gives me a decent enough 6Nm at the wheel. I also went for the Omron, but only a 360PP/R. That should be wayyyy more than enough. That should give me ~1400 pulses per second @230RPM, and I don't think an Arduino can make much sense of anything higher than 600PPR anyways. 360PPR is already a heck of a lot of interrupts, and the performance gain- as opposed to a 600/1000, is a plus. Another benefit is that it won't heat up my drivers (2x Double BTS, so the load/heat is spread even more- and they're also redundant- so if one fails...) I'll ditch the Arduino in my second iteration, since the STM32 is clearly a much better option and would be able to easily handle feedback for +600PPR. Besides that, I've just finished my own steering wheel... Proud of it, if I can say it myself! :) Looks just like any of those decent wheels on Ebay- some welding, buffing/polishing, filinng etc.. and having to learn to upholster.. but it turned out better than I expected. Looks like I bought it at the Auto shop! I'm going all the way though.. This will be my FIRST build- there will be improvements, and I already have plans for the shifter, the pedals, the handbrake, custom printed circuit board for the pedals since I don't like the loose, sloppy wiring.. - all to be built within the next year. I'm also working on a long-term plan for a seat mover.... but that's after all the other stuff. I'm so virile, I'm even entertaining the idea of making my own M4-based pcb and software! :D But that's the stuff of dreams I suppose... What did you do to me!? 😀 Thanks dude! Your vid was the first I watched on this... and it got me heavily into this sim-craze I'm going through. I'll be happy to share my progress. - Love from Africa!

Looks like a really nice motor driver! Not cheap though.

The firmware is MMOS, you download it from a german forum called virtualracing.

itd be too heavy

Dang thats such a good idea!! That honestly never crossed my mind. I build my own sim rigs. I have a nice full fanatec dd1 rig as well thats my go-to, but im in the process of building a replica of one of my cars to train in. Was gonna build everything custom but use a fanatec DD2 for the wheelbase. because i couldnt think of a reason to build my own. I will definitely be doing my own now with a steering column. Youll lose some torque and responsiveness with all the shafts, but itll make it even more realistic!

@@asdasd-om8tj send pics / thread if you have any build threads out there

Probably no more than US$250 for the wheelbase.

@@46449771 so much cooler.

Assetto corsa competizione does this nicely

@@aidan_francis5738 base assetto corsa(maybe content manager, but no further mods) even does this but is off by default cause most people don't care for it sadly.

The Assetto Corsa map? it's LA Canyons

Can i ask why do you want to switch stm32??

it's esun PLA+. All good so far

Kiddieview lol, I like that.

It's PLA, but I have a fairly large aluminium plate in-between the motor and the print which you probably can't see. That dispurses the heat but also, these motors actually don't get that hot which is good.