You’re welcome!

never mind I found it 13:23 LOL thanks

Yeah, I believe that job I used Certainteed 8” Board and Batten siding. Comes in 10’ and 12’6” lengths.

Wherever I’ve installed board and batten no builder ever provided the backing I needed. In Southern NH we don’t get much for high wind speeds or anything too crazy so everyone just nails to the 1/2” osb without many issues. Now if the siding blows off the house then the manufacturer won’t warranty it. Also there might be a possibility that homeowners insurance won’t cover it, but I’m not sure about that? So the answer is if you want to keep the warranty then I’d follow their instructions. And if you’re in high wind areas it is also probably a good idea. Also I know some codes are much more stringent and inspectors will want to know what was done and will withhold Certificates of Occupancy for crazy things (not that you need it on a shed!). If you are going to add 1” sleepers behind the siding, it would also be a good idea to pad any windows and trim out that same 1” as well (and make sure to make it watertight!). This way the siding can still utilize the j-pockets in the windows, doors, etc. Hope this helps!

Thank you for your response. Very helpful and I appreciate your quick response.

Thanks! I think you’ll find my channel helpful!

Hi, Unfortunately I don’t know of a better method than taking the wall back to the unclipped pieces. That being said you could try knife the piece maybe an inch from the nail fin edge of the piece so you could remove about 7” of it - if it is an 8” piece (careful not to cut the housewrap underneath, or tape it if you do). Then take a new piece and cut the nail fin part of the clip off and so it can fit in between the bottom of the next piece and the piece you left behind from knifing the last piece off…. There’s really no way to nail it using this method though, so before installing the new piece it would be a good idea to use a flexible adhesive in the bottom clip of the new piece. (Sorry it’s kind of hard to explain, hopefully you get the idea) There’s no guarantee the new piece will stay in place using this method and unless it is a ton of work to remove the siding I wouldn’t try it. Most of the time ripping siding back and correcting the mistake doesn’t take as long as you’d think. The pieces are mostly cut to size already and they are already physically close to where they need to be. I may try to do a video on this.

That is typically what I do as well. Get a feel for the job before you start and see where you need the highest quantity of long pieces - start with that wall and work your way to the wall with the highest quantity of small pieces… sometimes I’m able to side a house with less square feet of siding than the walls actually measure out to be (if you don’t deduct for windows). Sometimes the design of the house is not efficient for siding and you end up having to cut 12’ 6” pieces down to 6’ 6” and you never find a good place for the leftover 6’ piece (I’ve had it happen).

I am nailing through 1/2” osb. No foam insulation.

Thank you for your service! You could definitely use the existing pieces of horizontal gable siding to determine the angle of your board and batten cuts… just use a square and cut off the whole angled part and use the squared part of the triangle held perpendicular to the edge of the board and batten to get your angle. That way you’ll get the reverse angle of the horizontal siding. Then save the new transferred angle to mark the remaining pieces. For separating the upper and lower pieces of siding I would not recommend overlapping the board and batten. The more pieces you put together like that it starts to make the siding go crooked because you lose a tiny bit of reveal on each overlap. Back to back J-Channel is and okay solution also most siding manufacturers make a vinyl ‘H’ lineal that has J pockets on 2 sides they are either 3.5” or 5.5” that you could use instead of double J-Channels I would consider installing this band or H channel lower down at the eave line or bird box level… in either case I wouldn’t worry much about water getting behind the siding… that is a normal occurrence and it will build up until it runs out the ends and/or spills out the face. The nail holes in the back of the J Channel are higher than the face - so it’ll spill out the front before going behind. Now as far as water infiltration in general - you should really have an air vapor barrier that will protect the house underneath, because vinyl siding is not 100% water tight. The air vapor barrier will do most of the work and is your #1 defense against the elements. There are methods to keep more water out by using Z flashing on top of an H channel or in between double J channels, those methods can be helpful but not completely necessary if the weather barrier underneath is properly installed. To connect J-Channel to concrete I would probably use a good hammer drill and masonry tapcons. I would recommend shimming with pressure treated wood as needed to bring in plane with the wall above and continuing the air vapor barrier to below the shims. And yep I would recommend installing the j channel so it can move a little. Hope this helps! Good luck!

Outstanding reply! Thanks. One last question, when fitting the pieces to the wall, how do you handle a transition if the first piece measures out to have a cut in the batten? I understand using a return or undersill for the flat areas but, the batten has me puzzled. Would I need a deeper J channel and the undersill to hold 8n place? Again, thank you.

As long as it doesn’t interfere in another place (like a door) I’d shift the layout 4” over if I’m using a 8” siding piece. That should put the flat part of the siding into the corners on either side while still maintaining even starting and ending reveals. Sometimes there’s little to be done about the “batten” part landing in an opening or against a door - in those cases I would consider getting a dual undersill if additional support is needed.

Thank you for the information and response. I hope you have a great and prosperous 2024!

@@scottrhoades9056 You too!

Hi Heather, I didn’t have to trim around the windows. They are a “New England” style casing with a “J” pocket already built in… there’s a few different styles of trim to choose from for exterior built in trim, I would ask your supplier for choices.

Is there a website or any other info on the style of j-casing that you used? Thanks

On page 62 there’s what they refer to as Lineal pieces. These might work for you against a window. Also many companies make PVC trim that matches regular wood trim profiles but don’t require painting or upkeep. chrome://external-file/siding-pocket-productcatalog-04-08-664-US-EN-2305.pdf

The brand is Grand Entry Doors. That is the only arched top door I’ve installed or seen on a residential house.

Nice! I might not give you the response you’re looking for but…. It depends heavily on the job, don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. It’s like saying “how much does a car cost?”. It depends on how fast you are and how much you need to make to make some profit. Siding is usually figured “by the square”, which is 10’x10’ (or 100 sq ft). If it is really simple, the least I would do board and batten for is $175 per sq with soffit and metal wrap included. The more detailed work could get to $400 a sq or even more. Estimating is a very tricky thing to do and I don’t know if anyone has a perfect formula for it. I usually figure out the job by the square then just follow my gut for how long I actually think it will take and see what I would end up with by the day. If you’re making less than $500 gross income per day working by yourself you might as well go get a job working for someone else and let them deal with all the headaches (depending on where you live in the country that number could change drastically). Good luck!

Water will collect until it spills over the top of the J or runs out either end (some people drill 1/4” weep holes every 16” or so to help drain). Debris will collect over time, so it should be cleaned out periodically. I’m not aware of any methods to not use J at the bottom of vinyl board and batten siding.

Thanks! I will be watching your various videos.

Hmmm my siding guy wants to use just drip at the bottom for that reason...guess he installs ends flush to bottom drip and leaves a gap at top for expansion. Will discuss this again with him....

Hi Michael, I use the Construction Master Pro Calc app. For me it was worth the money cause I usually have my phone on me and I don’t have to leave what I’m doing to go grab a calculator.

There’s so much up and down and moving when installing board and batten that I find it easier to not drag a hose around. The staple sometimes interferes with the next piece of siding and I’m not sure stapling meets the requirements from the manufacturer. Also there’s the top staple that needs to be exactly at the top of the slot and it’s hard to get an exact placement vertically with a staple gun.

The pieces are 8” wide and the “batten” part is 1.5” so that makes the flat part in between the battens 6.5”.

Thanks! I didn’t really start the channel for self promotion cause I have and can get plenty of work. I guess it’s a good idea to try to expand my business though! Right now I’m recovering from back surgery and I have a month or so before I can do much. I’m working out of Southern NH btw. If you want me to quote a job for you feel free to email at brandonconstructs at gmail.com