Here’s some information you might find helpful regarding stapling vinyl siding: The following is a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd And here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf I’m not sure exactly what you are trying to say, but the staple gun nose and air pressure are set so that the staples are not driven tight… the siding is free to expand and contract as it should. As I’ve proven with the above links, staples are approved by both the VSI and Certainteed. I’ve installed vinyl siding for 16 years and can count my callbacks on less than one hand 🖐️. I agree that sometimes it is easier to hand nail on re-sides for various reasons. Thanks for your comment!

Awesome! I’m happy it helped you out!

Yeah, I tried a different camera angle and editing method. I’m probably going to remake this one.

I stopped worrying too much about comments on my pricing. I’m going to do a great job that’ll protect the house for decades. If they want to go with someone who is willing to slap the siding on then walk away and not worry about the house rotting out, then I’m not trying to compete anymore. I can’t in good conscience skip necessary water proofing steps even if it causes me to lose the job.

Thanks!

There are drip caps that have the edge kick out which is good too, it is a good idea to kick the water away from the wall. For this flashing the outer lip of the flashing is 1/2” down the block… water would have to go uphill in order to infiltrate, I don’t think there is a very high probability that that will happen. I prefer the way it looks to have it tight against the trim as opposed to a gap between it and the block.

@@sidingschool oohhh I see, that makes perfect sense

It sounds like whoever installed the siding didn’t use Z flashing or if they did, they didn’t either seal the top of it to the housewrap or put the top edge underneath the housewrap to prevent water intrusion. Vinyl siding and j-channels are not completely waterproof. There may be methods to limit and/or prevent water intrusion entirely, but that isn’t the way it is meant to be installed. The main line of defense against water intrusion is proper installation of housewrap and flashing pieces.

Thanks! I’m glad you liked it! 😊

Great to hear! You’re welcome!

Here’s an affiliate link to the tool I used: Malco siding removal zip tool amzn.to/3COkLrw If you don’t want to buy it from Amazon you can probably find a siding zip tool at your local lumber yard or big box lumber store like Home Depot, Lowe’s etc.

Thanks! I didn’t really start the channel for self promotion cause I have and can get plenty of work. I guess it’s a good idea to try to expand my business though! Right now I’m recovering from back surgery and I have a month or so before I can do much. I’m working out of Southern NH btw. If you want me to quote a job for you feel free to email at brandonconstructs at gmail.com

Well… it was technically the nail that was protruding up through the slot of my tape lol. I might’ve clipped my tape a couple times though. 😇 Interesting thing about tapes is not all of them read the same. I had a different brand and style tape than one of my employees and mine read 1/32” big and his read 1/32” small. So every cut he was making for me was 1/16” short.

@@sidingschool I'm literally siding just the back side of my house, takes me an hour just to think about what I''m doing LOL

It’s not a race, take your time and make sure the clips are fully engaged. Even if you have to measure every course until you get the feel for it. Good luck! 👍🏼

Well there you go 😊. Good luck! FYI, most manufacturers call for a 3/4” or so gap underneath the j-channel against roofs because they are concerned about the shingles heating up the j and making it bubble/melt… I live in a cooler part of the country and I’ve never seen an issue with it being installed tight. Also holding the j-channel up leaves the shiny step flashing visible and imo doesn’t look very good.

I have a cap flashing on top of the PVC. This is a standard install. Water does go everywhere behind the siding unless it is redirected out, that is why we use housewrap.

Oh that’s not good! Sorry to hear that! I made a different video on how to repair siding that keeps coming loose at the top. It may be more helpful in your situation where the soffit and fascia are already in place. Here’s a link to it: How to fix vinyl siding that is loose at the top kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mtePacuYv6jRaXk.html

Thank you!!!

Thanks! I certainly try!

I’m in the Jaffrey, NH area 😊

@@sidingschool you ever come out to the Bedford area?

I have went there to get cortisone shots in my back at NH Neurospine. Then to Manchester a couple weeks ago for back surgery. I did do a job in Amherst about 8 years ago. So yep I’ve been in the area a bit! And I’ve even done work around there too! 😊

@@sidingschool I'm a frequent flyer at the NH Neurospine - 3 fusions down - I am a builder in Bedford and am always looking for good subs - would you be interested in quoting work?

Sorry to hear that! I’m still a month + away from being able to work. I’d be interested in taking a look at some plans. You can send plans to Brandonconstructs at gmail

Thanks man!

Huh?

Siding has a serial number then (USA TF) WONDERING IF ANYONE KNOWS THE MAKER.. DUTCH LAP SIDING FROM AWHILE BACK

Gotcha, maybe put the serial number here and someone will be able to find it… otherwise I’d take a picture of it and show it to a siding distributor. Or even take a piece off and bring it somewhere. Sometimes the trim pieces might have more information or another piece of siding might say the manufacturer, line and color. Good luck!

Ended up just tearing the side down that was damage and starting fresh corner to corner. I think it's honestly an old piece of siding from Sears

Sometimes that’s the best way to do it. Good luck!

Thanks!

Mostly I was concerned about denting it (which can be mostly worked out if you know what you’re doing). Wood siding can also dent and crack from ladders. Vinyl siding has its limitations, as do all siding products.

A torch could leave a residue and is more likely to burn the siding since it is an open flame. But I did mention that a heat gun would’ve helped in this scenario. I’m pretty accustomed to not using one for the sake of speed, when it is colder out I’ll blow on j-channel to warm it up just enough to snip without it cracking.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it! Your plumber wouldn’t be Wardwell?

@@sidingschool No, we're all in the Deerfield area.

Got it. I guess we both know a couple more seasoned plumbers! 😊

A heat gun would’ve helped, that’s not a bad idea. As long as you don’t get too close and melt the siding!

Ah, bummer. And I wouldn’t fret, there’s a lot of ways to do things, this is just my preferred method!

Glad to hear it! You’re welcome! ☺️

Awesome! 😎

Yeah, not my best video. I have plans to redo this one and add images to show what I’m talking about. ✌️

Thanks! And good luck! It takes a little practice. 👍🏼

Thanks, you’re welcome, and sorry ‘bout that - I think… 😊 lol. And yeah going backwards is a huge pet peeve of mine! 😉

Thanks! 😊

I use these: Andy 3” siding snips amzn.to/3QD05Zv . That is an Amazon affiliate link, where I get a small commission (they don’t mark the products up). They take a bit of practice, but that’s all I use now. Wiss does have some tin snips that have smooth edges that would probably make a nice clean cut.

Anything worth doing is worth doing twice! 😜

Start to finish. With explanations and tips 🤗. I also added chapters so if you’re struggling with a certain aspect of the install you can skip to it. It’s also possible to watch videos on 2x speed. The quality of my videos will get better as time goes on! Good luck!

You could possibly put one screw in the face of vinyl siding, but it would be exposed. Also it isn’t really feasible to countersink a screw into vinyl siding because it is only .042” thick and doesn’t have the dimensional thickness to allow for that, unlike wood or fiber cement siding which is generally 1/4”-5/16” thick - a screw into vinyl siding would go all the way through it. Any more than one screw into vinyl siding will guarantee that it will “oil can”. Vinyl siding has to be able to expand and contract freely with the changes in the temperature. Thanks for your comment!

Good luck! lol Side note: I could’ve set the door jambs down on the threshold and used the top deflector piece to fill the gap at the top.

No problem! 😊

I’ve sided houses for 16 years and none of them bubble or require repairs. Staples are approved by the manufacturer and the VSI (Vinyl Siding Institute). Here’s a link to Certainteed’s installation instructions - see pages 35-36: certainteed.widen.net/content/2yoyd9b0zb/pdf/siding-installation-guide-04-03-1099-US-EN-230602-combined.pdf?u=nwk4fd Here’s a link to the VSI installation instructions - see pages 12-14: www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf The j channel here I stapled a little tighter to hold it a little closer (on a 16” piece there isn’t much for expansion and contraction). The staples are left proud of the nail fin usually to allow the siding to move freely. Thanks for your input!

Keeping an even reveal on the bottom and tops of windows is a good way to do it as well (especially with fiber cement or wood siding!). Sometimes that is difficult to do when a framer shims the bottoms of their windows differently from each other. It would be even more problematic when the windows are closer together, as this would amplify the angle across the distance of the wall. I typically choose to use the bottom and tops of the walls to establish heights, that way you know you aren’t going to have to cross a rib in the siding at the top.

Hey, you know what? You are right…. I just put it back together like it was. I guess a little caulking could help it out there. I’m not sure if it leaks at that joint, but there is a good possibility it does. Thanks for pointing that out lol.

When I was young I was protective of my ways, (to maintain a competitive edge) but now I don’t mind sharing what I’ve learned. I can’t put siding on every house in the world 🤗.

No problem! I got too stubborn to quit lol.

No problem! Industry standard around here is .042” thickness. Anything that thick or thicker should be sufficient. Thicker is typically better, but might not necessarily change any fading tendencies… it would be harder to dent and chip though. Insulated siding “should” be even more resilient to impacts and will add some R value as well. Insulation pretty much always will pay itself back over time, so it is a good choice as long as you like the look of it. Normal window j pockets won’t accept insulated vinyl siding so they would need j channel. Another downside to insulated vinyl siding is that if/when the siding is stripped off, the insulation goes with it. I’ve done houses before where I installed 1” rigid insulation before the siding and that gets you a true R-5 with no thermal bridging - I like that way of doing it, but it also requires j channel around windows (unless the windows and doors are going in with the siding, because then they could be padded out to meet the siding). Good luck with your project!

Thanks!

You are welcome! 🤗

You're welcome!