Tiny Tank Weighted Sled for Grass / Turf thetibfactory.com/products/ti...
Tiny Tank Weighted Sled for Hardwood / Courts thetibfactory.com/products/ti...
Other affordable Knees Over Toes Equipment I make can be found at www.thetibfactory.com.
2” Felt Pads if making Hardwood / Court Version amzn.to/3y57urt
You should be able to find the other materials at your local hardware store.
Good luck with your build and thanks for watching!
I’m about to give you everything you need to make your own knees over toes guy inspired
weighted sled
For those that want to support the channel or don’t have the materials, tools, time, or skillset to make your own,
my sled design is available for purchase at www.thetibfactory.com.
You can find the link in the description below
There are two different versions of this weighted sled and I’m going to walk you through how to make both.
One is made for grass and turf
the other is made for hardwood and indoor courts
While knees over toes guy didn’t invent the weighted sled,
he did popularize the concept of reversing out knee pain
which I have personally benefited from in my own training
The Tiny Tank weighted sled includes pull handles
These can be used for quad dominant backwards sled drags
As well as glute and hamstring dominant forward sled drags
The max weight capacity is 365 lbs when using metal weights
and the sled breaks down for easy portability to and from the gym or field.
To start the build, you will need
(2) 19-¾” 2x3 cut on 45 degree angles top to bottom
(3) 10-¼” 2x3 with 1 pc marked marked on center on the face and 1pc marked at 3-¾” and 6-½” on the side
(1) 6-½” 1x3
(2) 18-⅛” 1x2 cut on 45 degree angles side to side
(2) 11-¾” 1x2 cut on 45 degree angles top to bottom
(12) 1-⅝” wood screws
(5) 2-½” wood screws
(1) 5/16” x 2-½” x 5” U-Bolt with a face plate
(4) 5/16” bolts
(1) ¼” x 2-¼” Hitch Pin
(1) 2-⅛” pc of ¾” PVC
(1) ¾” coupling
and
(1) 14-¾” long pc of 1-¼” PVC
For assembly I’m using a worx drill so that I can pre-drill and drill at the same time
Drill your center marked 2x3 on a drill press using a 1-1/16” forstner bit.
Hammer your ¾” pc of PVC into the ¾” coupling
Insert your PVC into the 1-1/16” hole in your 2x3 and secure it with a 2-½” screw through the side.
Make sure to pre-drill all of your holes so that you don’t split the wood.
You can use a washer to keep your screw from poking through the side of your 2x3.
Drill a ¼” hole through both the 1-¼” PVC and the ¾” PVC coupling.
The hole should be ⅜” up from the bottom of the PVC.
This is where your hitch pin will go so that you can break your sled down for portability
This hole can be a little tricky to line up so I am using a jig I made for the drill press.
Drill your other 2x3 that has the 2 markings with a 5/16” forstner bit.
I’m drilling from both the top and the bottom on this pc because the drill bit I have isn’t long enough to reach all the way through.
Insert your U-bolt and tap it down into the holes.
Now attach the faceplate on the back and the 2 bolts on each side to keep the face plate from moving.
Assemble the top of the sled by connecting the longer pcs of 1x2 to the center pcs of 2x3 using 1-⅝” screws.
The pc connected to the PVC shaft goes in the middle and the u bolt pc will go in the front of the sled.
Like before, make sure to pre drill your holes
Next we are going to make the skis.
Sand down all of the sharp edges including the bottom edges to make sure that your wood doesn’t split if it hits any debris while you are dragging it.
For the hardwood version of the sled, you will attach (3) 2” felt pads to the bottom of each sled for a total of 6 pads. It’s easiest to do this step at the very end.
For the grass and turf sled, cut down 2 pcs of peel and stick vinyl flooring to 16-½” x 2-⅜”
After removing any sawdust, attach the 2 plastic skis to the bottom of the wood skis and make sure they are fully secure.
From here, sand every edge of the vinyl to make sure there aren’t any edges to catch while the sled is moving across the grass or turf
Attach the wooden skis to the top assembly of the sled using (4) 2-½” wood screws placed in each corner of the sled
Attach the shorter pcs of 1x2 on the top of the front and back of the sled.
These will provide a surface for the weight to sit on so that all of the weight isn’t resting on your hitch pin in the middle.
Once the sled is assembled, flip it over and attach the PC of 1x3 using (2) 1-⅝” screws to cover the hole on the bottom
At this point you can connect the felt pads to the bottom of the sled if you are making the hardwood version.
Lastly you need to assemble your pull handles. For the handles, I am using 2 PCS of 6-½” long ¾” PVC that I have sanded to remove and sharp edges.
The black rope I’m using is 16 ft long and tied on each side to secure each handle.
Affordable, Portable, and Built Like a Tank! www.thetibfactory.com