Thank you! I appreciate that. Will you be making one for yourself?

Haha, good point. You can never have too many clamps!

If clamps aren't available, another option would be to build the shelf from a sheet of plywood and cut it to match the space available. The cleats on the walls and the front edge of the shelf would remain the same. You'd still need a saw and a couple other basic tools, but no need for clamps :)

@@howtofixitworkshop you could also use ratchet straps, so long as you make sure to weigh down each side of the wood so it doesn't bow

@@YSEVERYNAMETAKENGOD yep, that's a good option!

Harbor freight is your friend

Thank you!

Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!!

You're welcome and good luck! Let me know if you have any questions

You're welcome, thank you for the feedback!!

That's great! Thank you!

Thank you! Are you going to build it yourself?

Did you build it! 500 sounds reasonable if you don’t own a whole woodworking shop?

Wtf?? Y’all out here complaining about corporations wages and want skilled carpenters with a shop full of tools to work for the same slave level wages. $500 is super reasonable for this project.

Thanks!

Sorry, you can get away with some pretty simple hand tools to build this. A hand saw or inexpensive circular saw and a drill

Ah, good point on the cost of tools and consumable materials. Thanks for adding that! And thanks for watching!

@@howtofixitworkshop yes! Definitely watched, enjoyed and subscribed!! You will save a lot of people money and time! A finished custom cut butcher block can range from $300 to $1500+! This is an affordable option, especially for a laundry room.

@@starttheconvopod awesome!! Thank you so much!!

Thank you!

Thank you!

You're welcome Aaron! Best of luck and let us know if you have any questions and how things turn out!

Small world! Yep Main and Mill is a cool brewery. Best of luck on your project!

Thank you! I used a jig saw and kept the line as straight as possible by following a straight edge clamped to the piece. You could use a circular saw or hand saw as well. Sorry, that part was left out of the filming

Haha, yep!

The shut off valves are pretty easy to access. The friend that I built this for asked to have the shelf cover as much of that space as possible. There are only 2 screws holding the shelf in place. Ideally there wouldn't be much on the shelf and it would be pretty quick and easy to remove if there was an emergency. Thanks for the feedback!

Good luck!

Harbor freight sells 60 inch clamps for $12

Hi, just the glue holding them together, I don't think they bowed for this customer, they seemed to hold a fair amount of weight

Mine were right enough that I didn't need to, the clamps pulled everything together pretty well. But if you have some imperfections you can either leave them or fill them. Kind of personal preference I think. Good luck!

Sure, you could add some supports underneath and anchor them into the cleats along the wall and attach the shelf top to those supports

Thanks Tim! Grab yourself a cold one 🤣

Thanks! I use Titebond 2

You didn't miss anything, all you need is glue

@@howtofixitworkshop sorry for my stupidity but wouldn’t the countertop break under weight since the countertop pieces don’t have support other than glue?

Hi Mirsa, good question. I always use Tightbond 2 wood glue: amzn.to/3bAOnvZ

Thanks for the feedback! Yes it could be sealed with epoxy, you'd just need a sealed lip all the way around to form the epoxy until it's cured

The glue should dry and bond within 30 minutes

Good question! The blue tape prevents tear-out or splintering as you cut across the wood grain.

Thank you! I think you would need to add a keg for the side that doesn't have a cleat

That's a good question. Do you have enough room on the no wall side to add a leg?

There are just 2 screws in the back two corners that I screwed through the countertop and into the cleats that were attached to the walls. They were countersunk below the surface and I used some brass colored screws that blend into the stained color of the wood. Thanks for watching!

Hi Sean! Thanks for the feedback. For #1, if I understand correctly, you're asking about support under the counter? I think if you have the 3 or 4 inch front brace the spans the length of the counter, it will prevent bowing of the larger flat piece. But you could attach some smaller thin strips to the underside from front to back and they should provide some extra support. For #2, since you only have 2 walls (I'm assuming a back wall and one side) I would consider adding a "waterfall countertop" concept. Google that and you'll see images of stone countertops, but the same could be done with wood. It's basically the width of the countertop and it acts as a brace or leg for that missing wall. Your comment about lumber hits close to home. Unfortunately there is a lot of bad lumber out there. I spend a lot of time at the Orange and Blue stores digging through their piles and just looking down the pieces like I'm looking through the sites on a gun. You can do your best and still get home with pieces that don't line up very well together. If you're using pine or a soft wood, it can bend with the help of clamps. There is also the opportunity for wood to continue to dry out or pick up moisture and warp in your garage or house. Best of luck to you! Let me know if you have any other questions!

@@howtofixitworkshop thanks for your reply - v helpful

You're welcome!

2 inch might be too short if you're going through the 1x2 and the drywall. I'd suggest at least 2 and a half inches to be safe

@@howtofixitworkshop thanks for for advice. We ended up finding some 3 in screws and worked like a charm.

Even better!

Yes, that's an option. Or you could add legs to the front corners

Hi, thanks for the question. Mine is only 3/4 of an inch thick. It was made from 1x8 inch pine boards from Lowes.

About 2 inches thick and 2 inches tall

You could use some heavy duty drywall anchors

Yep, it will hold up with no problem as long as the counter is supported on both sides and the back. The boards are glued together by their long grain, which is the strongest way to glue boards together

@@howtofixitworkshop awesome thank you so much!

You're welcome Eric, best of luck with your project!

I think I charged $250 for this one. It was very minimal lumber cost at the time.

@@howtofixitworkshop Thank you for answering! I was thinking $200 but lumber price has gone up, based on your price I will bid in $300. 😀 And thank you for the video

You bet! Good luck and thanks for the feedback!

You could use quarter round trim or something similar

@@howtofixitworkshop hello, I feel super confident going into my laundryroom makeover thanks to your video, thanks !! Would you vote againt using silicone on the sides for a more finished look? Do you think 2 screws in the back are enough if a toddler decides to kinda hang onto the countertop ? Thanks so much !

Hi, I'd be ok using a caulk on the edges if you're looking for a finished look, like around baseboards and door frames. I think you could add as many screws to the back and side cleats as necessary to avoid tipping. 2 should be plenty if you have the shelf cleats on the there sides, but more wouldn't hurt anything

I believe it was Early American from Minwax

Hi Sarah, did you use small boards glued together? That can happen for several reasons. Mahjong sure the wood is very dry before gluing the pieces together is probably the best tip.

It's white pine

Nope, not at all

@@howtofixitworkshop I’m doing a 4x8 section and I’m afraid it will warp. Any suggestions?

If you have the cleats along the wall perimeter and a straight edge connected to the front like I had that's 2-3 inches thick, it should be pretty solid

@@howtofixitworkshop did you polycrylic the bottom as well ?

I did not, but one coat wouldn't hurt. It can prevent potential warping

The tape was used to avoid splintering of the wood from the saw. I used a circular saw to make the final cuts.

@@howtofixitworkshop Thank you! You cut through the tape? Also, do I need plastic coverings on the 2x4s you use on top and bottom of the 10" pine boards? Thanks again

Yep, I cut through the tape and then removed it. Yes the plastic that you see on the 2x4 boards used for clamping is actually duct tape. It prevents the wood glue from bonding the 2x4s with the shelf material. You can use anything like tape or plastic wrap. Thanks for the great questions!

Yep, I sure do

Yep, still high

Could you build a leg to support that side?

@@howtofixitworkshop I am thinking the same thing. Or possibly building a cabinet around the heater and connecting to that.

That would work, good luck to you!

Oh really? That's not bad, thanks for the feedback!

It's possible to build with a sheet of plywood that is cut to proper length and depth by an associate at the home center and use 2x2 lumber for the cleats cut to size with an inexpensive hand saw and attached to the walls with a drill and screws or hammer and nails. The front lip of the shelf can simply be a 1x2 or 1x3 cut to length with a hand saw as shown in the video. So yes, takes a couple tools but if you have zero tools you could purchase what is essential for probably $25 or less

Guess that's true if you had to buy them all at the same time and new. Several of mine were handed down and gifts, others I purchased used or when they were on sale.

They're cheap tools