Thanks for watching and for leaving kind remarks. b33zo

"My one"? You mean mine!

@@gbwildlifeuk8269 shut up

Thanks Stew, yes it's great to be able to go outside when its raining and stay dry! My design is based on some of the Australian varandahs I spent many happy hours sitting on. Good luck with your project, b33zo

Hi, did you screen of the sides as yet? I’m planning the same.

Nice work stufoo1 and thanks for writing.

+paul mattox Thanks Paul. You'll be fine if you figure it all out carefully before you order the materials.

Thanks Andy. Yes, it's lovely to sit outside (in warmish weather) and listen to the rain on the polycarb! Good luck with your project!

check out this lean to kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9qmfraEqNbcfKM.html

Thanks stufoo. Organising the roof rafters at the correct spacing is something to watch out for. Good luck with your project,

Thanks for watching Dean. Useful comments taken on board. I worked on frame houses in Western Australia when I was fit and had hair but the the science of cutting out roofs never really sunk in if I'm honest. ATB b33zo

Thanks for watching James and kind remarks. b33zo

Ishup Adhikari thank you for watching and your kind comments.

Thanks for watching Paul. Roofing carpentry is a real skill - which I don't possess. I worked with framing carpenters during my time in Australia. They would cut out the rafters at ground level using a 'roofing square' (made by Stanley) then pass them up to me to nail in place. A factory couldn't have made objects that fitted as well. Cheers b33zo

slinky2000 thanks for watching. Yes I guess ideally placing a few rows of roof battens (2x1) onto the rafters would make fixing the polycarbonate a lot easier. Would mean one inch deeper gable ends and facia board as well. ATB b33zo

Thanks Gary. Appreciated.

Thanks Robert. Hope your project goes okay!

Thanks for your compliments Steve. It's not a difficult job if you figure out everything before you start.

Thanks for your compliments Nazir. The gutter brackets were screwed through the plastic facia into the end of each roof rafter. Use a string line fixed at each end as a guide to keep the gutter straight and falling towards your drain or water butt. Easy! Cheers b33zo

Thanks Michael. Just go nice and steady and you'll end up with a worthwhile addition to your house. FlashBand will form a very good flashing but if you have the time and you want something that will last for ever I would suggest tucking lead into the brickwork for the waterproof roof flashing. Good luck with your project. b33zo

Thanks Andrew for your kind remarks. Good luck with your project if you have a go. b33zo

Thanks for watching Joe. Good tip. You wouldn't think I worked with roofing gangs in Queensland for several years chucking up hardwood rafters... Happier days. ATB b33zo

Thanks for you compliments Doktor!

Hi Pat Thanks for watching and compliments. Hope your project goes well! b33zo

Ian thanks for watching and for your compliments.

Hi Tom thanks for watching. It's been a couple of years but from memory something similar to the sleeve anchors from screwfix 19649 should be okay. There's no real weight on the roof but I would avoid plain screws and rawplugs. Good luck with your project. b33zo

Thanks for watching DRJMF1. Toughened glass is going to very heavy in 3m lengths so you might want to use 6x2 rafters. Polycarbonate sheet is more-or-less bullet proof and much easier to handle. It's been a few years since I did this job and glazing rail firms have come and gone so you'll have to do the research but there will be lots of options. Good luck with your project. b33zo

Thanks for watching TD.

Thanks Chris. I think I used 8x1 (200x25) sawn, treated, timber for the wall plate. I added threaded rod to the galvanised post stirups which gave them some 'legs' which are then concreted in to stand about 30mm above the finished floor level. This way the 100x100 posts are not in contact with the ground.

Thanks for watching Gem.

Hi Mark That polycarb is more or less bullet-proof. You could probably walk on it though I don't recommend that! I don't think any about of snow would make much difference so long as you have a reasonable pitch on the roof. Good luck with your project!

Hi Monika Thanks for watching. Think it was Evo-Stik Flashband - a recommended brand. I will be quite honest and admit that in the summer sunshine the south facing (hottest even in UK) wall has become warm enough for the sticky stuff to become soft and allow the flashband to slide down the wall slightly. After four years there are no leaks on the joint (the other three sides are open so a few drips wouldnt be a problem anyway). If I were to do the work again I would rake out the brick joint to a depth of 25mm and tuck in lead flashing as several experts have already suggested. Good luck with your project. b33zo.

Thanks for watching. I used regular concrete something like 6 ballast (sand and gravel) to 1 cement 100mm (4") thick on general rubble. Areas where the post stirrups are should be thicker as they are in effect preventing storm winds lifting the structure. Good luck with your project. b33zo

Thanks for watching Dylan.

Thanks for watching Stephen. Yes the rain noise is fabulous as you drink your coffee outdoors while keeping perfectly dry. b33zo

Hi Zbigniew Thanks for watching. I used Evo-Stik Flashband Original. It is a "self adhesive sealing bitumen strip which bonds instantly to provide a permanent watertight seal in all climates". It has been in place for around 4 years now. The wall gets hot in the summer (south facing) and this has warmed the bitumen enough to allow a very small amount of slippage. I believe it is recommended to use a primer which I may not have done. The best solution for a really permanent job is to use lead tucked into the brickwork. Good luck with your project! Regards b33zo

Hi Kevin Thanks for watching. The FlashBand worked 100% with no drips coming down the wall. The wall is south facing and gets surprisingly hot in summer and this has caused the FlashBand to slide down slightly over 5 years. Will probably be okay for another 5 years! The structure is open on three sides so a few drips wouldn't be a problem in my opinion. Ideally the pointing should be raked out to about 25mm deep and lead tucked in to give a more permanent job. Good luck with your job. b33zo

Peter Smithson Thanks Peter. Us novices must stick together! The seal stuff I used is called FlashBand but there are other bitumen flashing tapes out there with Instructions for fitting. There many rules for span widths and timber sizes mainly to correctly support a given weight. In the case of a polycarbonate roof which has almost no weight I used 100x100 (or 4"x4") posts at roughly 2.4m (8 feet) apart and 175 x 50 (7x2) timber for the spans with around 300mm overhanging (cantilevered) each end. The height of the 'lintel' probably should be minimum 7 feet from finished floor level. Good luck with your project!

b33zo Thanks for that. I wrote a longer reply earlier and then re-booted PC before sending it! Anyway, I have a plan now for the wood part. How did you attach the back plate to the wall? I found something about lag bolts/screws but don't really see how they work. Is that what you used? I know you used coach bolts for something - was that it?

Peter Smithson Peter I used M10 x 95mm Shield Anchor Studs from Screwfix. Item11479. No idea if this was the right thing but it does a good job and feel secure. Not really carrying any weight.

Thanks for watching David. Price? it was about five years ago and I really can't remember. It cant be much cheaper than doing it yourself that's for sure - so long as you figure everything out properly before buying your materials. It's not a difficult project. ATB b33zo

+Beyoutyguide Hi, the cost of materials was approx £450 as a DIY project. Paying someone to do it would easily double or treble the price. Dont forget the extra cost of disposing of soil etc from digging post holes and for laying the patio floor!

Hi Randy it's been a while but from memory the sheets have sealing tape at the high end and breather tape on the gutter end. This apparently prevents condensation and stops insects getting into the voids. Drip profiles are easy to cut to length and are meant to fit very tight.

Thanks for watching Phil. If you pause the video at 00.39 you'll see that I'm standing on the glazing bars/rails. From memory I primed the brickwork before fitting the polycarbonate sheets. I was at that house recently and as it is south facing it gets sun all day long. Over 9 years (since I did the project) the summer heat has warmed the adhesive bitumen and allowed the Flashband to slide down the wall in places. If I were doing the job again I'll use lead tucked into the brick joint. ATB b33zo

Hi WilC thank for your comments. Polycarbonate can be difficult to cut really nicely but it can be done with decent 'handed' tin snips. I'd then seal around the pipe with Flashband (same as along the roof-line). It may not be perfect but should rain coming down the outside of the soil pipe. Good luck with your project!

Thanks for watching and sharing your knowledge yantobbayer.

+disjon316 thanks for your question. Start with the wall plate in position and with the cross beams on the posts. From memory I think I got the original rafter angle by resting an uncut rafter in position on the cross beam but running PAST the end of the wall plate on the left hand side of the building (looking from the front). If you can't do that rest the uncut rafter on the cross beam and at the wall plate end take an offcut of say 4x2, hold it against the brickwork and mark a line on the rafter that will be parallel to the brickwork. When you get started you'll see that it's not that complicated! Good luck.

+b33zo Thanks - I'll be building a lean-to carport this summer

Hi John, thanks, I guess the kitchen was very slightly darker but to be able to walk and sit outside while it was raining was a fabulous payoff. Even in winter it felt nice out there under the polycarbonate sheeting.

check out this lean to kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9qmfraEqNbcfKM.html

Thanks for compliments. I used 7"x1" (175mmx25mm) sawn timber for the wall plate. It has to be 25mm thick to take the screws used to fit the rafter brackets. For the timber spanning the posts I used 175mm again but this time 50mm thick (7" x 2"). This size not only gives enough width to take the rafter nails but adds stability to the whole job. Its okay to use 4"x2" (100mm x 50mm) for the rafters where the span is only around 8 feet (2400mm). The roof itself weighs nothing but if you need to get up there to do the fixings the rafter must take your weight! I'm no expert but I'd suggest if you have a good think and plan out the timber you need carefully so you don''t end up back at the yard for something extra it's all quite straight forward. Take care drilling those big holes in the wall...Good luck!

+b33zo thanks pal. Big help👍

Hi Chris Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. From memory I just chose I height I liked above the door flashing to achieve a reasonable pitch. Although my verandah was a home-made, open sided, design it's probably best to avoid a really shallow pitch which might allow rain to blow up under the flashing. Good luck with your project.

@@johnbeasley2453 thanks, i thought that was the case, i just been over analysing everything :) right bolts in brick, will do the job fine im sure. my pitch may be around a foot too . also gonna go for fabric under the rafters, waterproofed, rather than the corrugated stuff. all theory tho now :) thanks again.

Hi Solatiumz There's no real weight when you use polycarbonate sheets but the construction needs to be strong and ridged enough to withstand wind and storms. The roof will act like a sail in strong winds. The difference in price between 4x2 and say 3x2 is not much but you'll have a stronger construction. You may need to climb onto the roof at some stage to re do the flashing. Good luck with your project.

b33zo Thank you for your reply. I will probably ask a professional as there is no way that I could climb up and do it lol.

Thanks for watching rusty. Those clips are just every-day joist hangers available from the Big barns and Screwfix. b33zo

Hi Janine Thanks for watching. There never was a list but from memory the timber used was 100x100 posts, 175x50 cross beams, 100x50 rafters and 175x25 wall plates. The quantities of each will depend on the size of your proposed job. Any other questions just ask here. Cheers b33zo

Hi Kiran, thanks for watching. Slightly more complicated but everything is possible. Sounds like you have 'hanging tiles'. You could remove one or possibly two courses horizontally, create your new pitched roof then use lead flashing to re-waterproof the existing wall. More details required really. b33zo

Hi Matt I believe you're talking about the 'noggins' - the short pieces of 4x2 (100x50) that separate the long roof rafters. These are skew nailed in, that is to say the nails are driven in at a 45 degree angle. Ideally 2 nails each side. You can nail directly through the rafter into the end grain of the noggin in some places. Use a string line to mark where you're going to fix the noggins and they will look neat and tidy. Good luck with your project.

@@b33zo did you use PAR (plained all round) wood for rafters and noggins? Can't tell from the video Ok just noticed . C24 for rafters , rough sawn for poles ... But can't make out the rest Also if you don't mind I what the dimensions of the whole structure And space between rafters

Hi Matt It's a couple of years ago now but from memory the whole thing was about 5-6 meters across by 2.4 meters. Everything 100x50 rough sawn (which is quite smooth these days). I think the roof panels were 900mm wide so I placed the rafters at 450mm centres. Theres no real weight on the roof except if you climb up there to organise the flashing.

Hi fadii thanks for watching. That stuff is called Bostick Flashband widely available and item 22704 at Screwfix. It will stick to just about anything to form a waterproof flashing. Ideally though lead tucked into the brickwork is the way to go. The flashband used on this job around 4 years ago is still okay except at each end where being a south-facing building the summer sun has warmed it sufficiently for it to begin to slide down the wall by an inch or so. b33zo

+Ali Mohammed Hi Ali no planning permission required for this kind of structure.

Hi Matt Thanks for your comments. I used Flashband to provide a moderate seal along the roof-line. That stuff sticks straight on to the brickwork. Rain can blow in from the three exposed sides of the building and if you get a few drips coming down the wall it's not a disaster in my opinion. Flashband here: www.screwfix.com/p/flashband-bostik-flashband-evo-stik-

Good point S. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching Stef. Built in a fairly sheltered place so no major issues that I know of (touching wood of course). b33zo

@@b33zo Brilliant, thanks mate. I'm going to have a go at one next month when i've got some time

Hi John My feeling is that an enclosed conservatory would be a different project all together. For a guess you would probably start off with a 'dwarf' wall to get a foot or so above ground level in bricks or rendered blocks and go from there.

+dean terry Hi Dean The roof sheets came from a company called polycarbonateshop.co.uk but they went out of business and started again under a different name I believe. For info I used 10mm clear multiwall sheets, Snaptype glazing bars and 10mm white F section aluminium at each end of the roof. 10mm white fixing buttons hold the whole thing down.

+b33zo thanks I am building a 12m car port so was thinking of using 25mm poly , and 45x170 timber as its gonna be a big structure

Thanks for watching Charles. I don't have those numbers but something like seven feet at the low end (to walk under) and close to the first floor windowsills (cills) giving a pitch of around 25 degree angle for a guess. b33zo

+Michelle Sayers Hi Michelle The roof sheets came from a company called polycarbonateshop.co.uk but they went out of business and started again under a different name I believe. You could try this supplier: www.polycarbonatesheets.co.uk/ who will supply the exact length you require. For info I used 10mm clear multiwall sheets.

+b33zo thank you for getting back to me

Hi Jefferson No planning permission required for this project. From the local authority website: "Adding a conservatory to your house is considered to be permitted development, not needing an application for planning permission."

Thanks. how many meters is it away from the house wall?

Hi Petrisor Thanks for watching. No planning permission or building regs required for this type of building.

@@b33zo I live in a mid terraced house 5.10 m wide and i'd like to build 4.80 m wide and 3.3 m long but somebody told me i can't go higher than 2.5 m...

@@petrisorserdaru2595 Hi Petrisor I'm not an expert on this (or anything else) but as far as I know this is classed as a temporary non-habitable construction and needs no permissions. In a mid-terrace the only issue you might run in to is if your neighbors feel you're restricting their light. You can usually talk to a building inspector for advice by ringing local council offices and in my experience they are quite helpful.

Hi Stephen Its a couple of years ago now and somewhere in this thread I mentioned prices. There are three main costs: The groundwork - concrete post holes and floor. The timber - once you've figured out the components you can get a price from Travis Perkins etc and the Polycarbonate roof and gutter. From memory I think the timber was around £200+ and the roof about the same from an on-line company (avoid Wickes etc). I mixed my own concrete. I would guess that around £750 would get the job done if you don't make too many mistakes.

Thanks for watching allen. Sorry. this was about six years ago and prices have changed dramatically. Simple enough. Work out your timber cutting list and metalwork and look on T&P website for prices. Pollycarbonate sheets readily available as are plastic facia and gutters. Good luck with your project. b33zo

Hi mac thanks for watching and I hope the video has helped in some way. In answer to your question: No. I've copied this from UK Planning Portal: Adding a conservatory to your house is considered to be permitted development, not needing an application for planning permission, subject to the limits and conditions listed below. No more than half the area of land around the "original house"* would be covered by additions or other buildings.

Thanks Steven.

Rory Bailey Oi oi ... that’s a bit cheeky 😬🤣

Thanks for watching Myles.