Yep, I don't think I've ever had a head show under 100 out of the box. Some in the 150-200 range which is really good for a production finish. I am liking the worksharp a lot.

Thanks for the tip

Thanks Sean, you as well!

Thanks Jason!

LOL. I have two Benchmade knives, M4 and S90V, both at 62-64 Rockwell. No way VPA heads are tougher to sharpen than my daily carry pocket knife. I've had this thing for almost seven years now and I don't regret it. Difficulty to sharpen is a problem I can solve at home to avoid a bigger problem in the woods.

In hindsight I'd started with 600 grit when I should have started lower to save time. When I broke the worksharp out I probably only spent 10-15 minutes or so, with most of that work being on the 320 grit.

@@DIYSportsman I recently splurged on a 325 diamond plate and I'm mad I waited this long. Profiling my knives is so much easier now. The reason why the VPA head takes so long to sharpen is because of the surface area. The pressure is lower, so the same grit doesn't bite as deep into the steel. If you compare it directly to a similar head with less exposed edge, you'll sharpen way faster. I would like for the VPA to be slightly thinner, a slightly steeper angle, and a higher hardness. I haven't beat up and repaired my Iron Will heads yet, but I think the angle Bill chose is right on the money. I think the regular VPA single bevel might be a better performer if you grind the bevels yourself and give it a tanto style tip.

Yes, once you get a good edge on some of these high hardness steels they'll retain it well, especially in target foam, and it won't take nearly as much work to touch it up. If you shoot them into gravel, sandy soils etc that can cause a lot more wear. In hindsight if I'd have started on a coarser grit I could have saved a lot of time. I created that worksharp edge in maybe 10 minutes.

@@DIYSportsman Also not having to jump from 600 to 1200 id imagine. Cant wait for october. Hope to see you post some ground hunting vids!

​@@joehorton01Grit jumps really don't matter that much unless you want a mirror polish. Sharp doesn't require a mirror finish, and a mirror finish can be dull. It removes about the same amount of material per pass, unless you go 300 or so compared to 3000. 600 to 1200 is just fine. It's not unusual to go from a quality 800-1000 grit to a 3-4k. Snobs will cry foul, but it will be faster to skip more grits than to gradually move up at every step. I'm quite convinced that he's taking way longer to sharpen that broadhead than I would take, but I have been sharpening knives by hand for YEARS. But once you grind it down to a sharp edge then future touch-ups don't take very long. I'd rather have a higher hardness so I can get the edge that much sharper, but that's me.

Iron wills are another great option. I have some of their standard sized SB and have been eyeballing the wide ones for my traditional bows. And with that replaceable blade you can very easily lay it completely flat to knock off the backside of the burr.

I think I had it set to 27 or 28 but didnt measure the true angle. Basically just adjusted it until the stone was laying flat and evenly wearing off sharpie. The 40 degrees total near the tip is not all on one side. It's more like 26/14 or so on front/back so the worksharp can handle it. I free handed the back so that I didn't need to adjust the clamp height, but you could definitely adjust it separately for each angle.