I never realized how much science there actually was about this! So good Patrick!

As a guy that's bouldered and climbed a bit and has tried the hangboards quite a bit, here's my anecdotal evidence. For climbing the fingerboards only have limited advantage, your endurance is a much bigger factor for climbing. For bouldering on the other hand, training your fingers is really important and I noticed that (after plateauing a bit) hangboards can make a lot of difference since you're training only the hardest part (at least, it was for me) of bouldering. Further, I've heard (not tested mind you) that your muscles can handle a lot in little time while your tendons cannot. So I've always been cautioned to take it easy with my fingers since an injury was likely. So far that has worked :) As for my level, I could do most 8A boulders when I was still pretty active.

This is one of the first videos of yours I've seen and I'm really impressed so far. You speak in a clear, concise manner, cite your sources, and honestly admit when evidence is weak or inconclusive, instead of trying to make it fit a narrative. Great job!

I am not going to attack your work product. I think you've been objective, and your heart is in the right place. However, I am going to add...and people can accept this or not, it is demonstrably true...that if you look at a bodybuilder and a rock climber, you will see similar hypertrophy in the lower arms. HOWEVER, have them flex and wiggle their hands and digits. The tendons...NO COMPARISON. If they've been doing it for five or more years, the tendon might be 3x the thickness of the bodybuilder. This should be no surprise. Experienced rock climbers ive seen dont complain neither so much about forearm nor fingers, but tendon pain. It seems to be what is getting hammered. Tendons are PROVEN to grow from long, sustained bouts of continued constant tension. Lots of blood flow and metabolic stress to the muscles throughout the lower limb. Rock climbing is a perfect storm of hypertrophy stimulation , particularly for the tendons. These guys, such as my friend Kevin palko, are known for having outrageous levels of lower limb strength and work capacity. He can train side pressure very hard, and typically not get injured, and recover from his workouts faster than his cohorts. Why? Well, when coupled with other examples,, a logical deduction is there is a strong correlation to his climbing and how it has altered their anatomy favorably. I encourage you to watch this guys videos on KZfaq, if you are in to armwrestling or hand strength and fitness in general. All this said, I like your video, and presentation style. Subscribed :)

I can't believe you aren't more popular! Such a clear look at the science and so well explained

god damnit patrick, always with such great and creative content

As a climber and anatomy student this video was (to quote Hanna Montana) the best of both worlds 🙂 Thank you!

You need to specify what kind of protocol they were training on the hangboard. Repeaters train endurance, max hangs train strength

I used to climb walls and floors like this so many times🤣. But god those rough surfaces always scratch and i ended up having blood all over my hands. It's fun but pain at the same time, i left doing it but will get back to it cuz i love to climb and run(of course in a safer place like gym and such)

I don't really care much for muscle strength, but from what I know, the biggest factor in muscle strength is glycogen storage. Excluding tendon strength and endurance, which depend more on factors like collagen structure, blood flow, and mitochondria(the powerhouse of the cell) remodeling.

I would’ve appreciated more of an answer than “we can stick to weights.” Does that mean just traditional pull weight training ?

Have you ever tried hangboarding? What has your experience been?

I love Grip amd gripsport. One reason I train grip is to strengthen tendons. In 6 months I've gained so much grip power. Thx for this great video

I used to climb in my childhood and adolescence and my forearm, palm and fingers are thicker than most people

Understand channel, seen you several times on seeker as well. Great explanations.

so cool to know u also climb / boulder! What is your route which u were most proud of?

I ended up splitting a sesamoid bone in my foot while rock climbing for the first time. I had fun until I had to limp 4 miles back to my car.

I’m using this for volleyball 😅

As a physical therapist and climber who has enjoyed your channel for years, I sadly have to say that you've done a major disservice by leaving out the tremendous research of Eva López-Rivera on this topic.

My right grip used to be super strong from tennis, I did 1 handed back hand... I don't play tennis anymore and I gradually lost it

Hangboarding is the best way to prevent climbers from injuries, especially with beginners. So it's a crucial tool.

an eight week training to see who improves most sounds weird, i have been hangboarding for almost 4 months and haven‘t improved a bit. I might be ding a lot wrong 😄

Scientist and climber here. Hangboards are for reinforcing specific muscles, tendons and pulleys; and the evolution is very slow, much slower than muscles, up to 2 years; and for seasonned climbers, likely they are already strengthened enough; "finger strength" is very wide, and should not be only based on muscle abilities; so, all of those papers and claims have poor meaning IMHO.

What I found as a beginner use a dumbbell go increase finger strength

Thank you very much for this video! There are so many myths and folk kniwledges about anatomy with grip and hands especially. I want to ask, have you seen any research into office ergonomics, especially with ergonomic computer equipment and keyboards? I'm wondering where diminishing returns existz and whether certain risks can or can't be prevented with exercise.

What defines an 'experienced climber'?

A dead hang is what my week does on Wednesday...

Trying to crush my friends hand when i shake them

❤❤❤❤❤👍🏻💪🏻 i like this video very much 🏋🏻‍♂️ 🏅🏅🏅 💪🏻🏋🏻‍♂️💪🏻 Please make a 10 or 8 minute exercise video with a variety of movements: Bodyweight exercises and Dumbbell exercises for : forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, lower back, obliques, upper abs, lower abs, glutes, hips/kegels/pelvis, waist, hamstrings, quadriceps, thighs and calves... and also ask for your help in making a video of exercises for the fingers, soles of the feet, palms, toes....... and exercise for symmetrical slanted bodies such as shoulders, face and other body parts..... And tall sports / to increase body height such as basketball athletes, cardio sports with and without dumbbells, as well as delicious bulking and cutting, recipes for delicious food and healthy food that we can cook at home...... Don't forget to upload warm-up and cool-down videos with and without dumbbells I hope the video can be uploaded soon for my practice at home and I will share it with my friends. Sorry if there are any wrong words from me. I say...... thank you for your attention and and good luck always.... From : Muhammad Haqqul Yaqin *YAYAK* your fans 👍🏻💪🏻🏋🏻‍♂️ Please make a video bodyweight workout / home workout and Dumbbell workout for train muscle forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, upper abs, lower back, obliques, lower abs, waist, glute, pelvic / kegel, hamstring, quads, thighs, and calfs and finger workout, palm workout, face workout, body symmetrical workout, sole feet workout, tall workout, etc ...... please make that video because i love workout ....... thank you for your attention 🙂👍 From your fans YAYAK 🏋️‍♂️🏋️‍♂️ ❤ i like this video very much 🏋️‍♂️💪🏻👍🏼👍🏻 Ask for help to make a video of : Bodyweight exercise and Dumbbell exercise for : forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, lower back, obliques, upper abs, lower abs, glutes, hips/kegels/pelvic, waist, hamstrings, quadriceps, thighs and calves... and also ask for help making a video of exercises for finger, sole feet, palm ..... and exercise for symmetrically slant the body such as shoulders, face and other body parts.... And exercises to tall like basket ball player, cardio with and without dumbbell and how to bulking and cutting.... don't forgett to upload video warm up and cooling down with and without dumbbell 🙂🙂😊 Sorry if there are any wrong words ....... for your attention I say....... thank you very much From : Muhammad Haqqul Yaqin *YAYAK* your fans 💪✊👍 💪🏻🏋🏻‍♂️💪🏻 Please make a 10 or 8 minute exercise video with a variety of movements: Bodyweight exercises and Dumbbell exercises for : forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, chest, abs, lower back, obliques, upper abs, lower abs, glutes, hips/kegels/pelvis, waist, hamstrings, quadriceps, thighs and calves... and also ask for your help in making a video of exercises for the fingers, soles of the feet, palms, toes....... and exercise for symmetrical slanted bodies such as shoulders, face and other body parts..... And tall sports / to increase body height such as basketball athletes, cardio sports with and without dumbbells, as well as delicious bulking and cutting, recipes for delicious food and healthy food that we can cook at home...... Don't forget to upload warm-up and cool-down videos with and without dumbbells I hope the video can be uploaded soon for my practice at home and I will share it with my friends. Sorry if there are any wrong words from me. I say...... thank you for your attention From : Muhammad Haqqul Yaqin *YAYAK* your fans 👍🏻💪🏻🏋🏻‍♂️ 🏋️‍♂️🏋️‍♂️💪🏻💪🏻 Video Tutorial Dumbbell workout for forearms, biceps, triceps, shoulders, traps, neck, back, lats, lower back, upper back, chest, abs, obliques, lower abs, kegel, hamstring, calfs, thigh, quads, glute & etc 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Please help me to train muscles and guide me by uploading dumbbell exercise or body weight exercise tutorial videos : 1. Neck 2. Omohyoid 3. Sternohyoid 4. Sternocleidomadtoid 5. Trapezius 6. Shoulders 7. Deltoid 8. Interior head 9. Middle head 10. Posterior head 11. Biceps 12. Brachialis 13. Bicep brachii 14. Long head 15. Short head 16. Pronator teres 17. Palmaris longus 18. Forearm 19. Extensor carpi ulnaris 20. Abductor pollicis longus 21. Extensor pollicis brevis 22. Extensor pollicis longus 23. Flexor carpi radialis 24. Brachioradialis 25. Flexor carpi ulnaris 26. Chest 27. Pectoralis major 28. Pectoralis minor ( beneath major ) 29. Abs 30. Serratus anterior 31. External oblique 32. Rectus abdominis 33. Tendinous inscriptions 34. Back 35. Teres minor 36. Teres major 37. Infraspinatus 38. Rhomboid major 39. Trapezius 40. Erector spinae ( deep ) 41. Latissimus dorsi 42. Thoracolumbar fascia 43. Triceps 44. Triceps brachii 45. Lateral head 46. Long head 47. Medial head 48. Glutes 49. Gluteus medius 50. Gluteus maximus 51. Thighs 52. Sartorius 53. Pectineus 54. Adductor longus 55. Gracilis 56. Tensor fasciae latae 57. Vastus medialis 58. Rectus femoris 59. Vastus lateral 60. Patella ( kneecap ) 61. Hamstrings 62. Biceps femoris 63. Iliotibal band 64. Adductor magnus 65. Semitendinosus 66. Gracilis 67. Semimembranosus 68. Calves 69. Gastrocnemius 70. Soleus 71. Peroneus brevis 72. Flexor hallucis longus 73. Tibia ( bone ) 74. Tibialis anterior 75. Extensor digitorum longus 76. Peroneus longus 77. 78. 79. 80. 81. 82. 83. 84. 85. 86. 87. 88. 89. 90. 91. 92. 93. 94. 95. 96. 97. 98. 99. 100.

I don't know if they improve finger strength, but I know that they turn every other fingernail black.

❤️❤️

Fun fact: There are no muscles in your fingers

hangboarding makes you better at hangboarding.

woman… woman would benefit for the guys using finger boards.

If you want to injure some random guy / new climber, give him a hang board lol