Man, the quality in filming, editing, and production of your videos are increasing greatly! Very nice. Keep it up man.

I love this build. It is unique, Jeep builds are a dime a dozen.

just a thought, try moving steering box. Any where along the axis (up, down) of the big end will not change geometry (within reason). And steering column u-joints make changes easy at that end. Has worked fine for me on several builds over the last 4 decades.

Now i "need" a discovery for camping trips, and the LJ only for trail riding! great video as usual Nate, and great buid!

Enjoy the QA talk. Excited to see the j10 finished.

Can you explain/show a little more about what you did to your pitman arm? It looks like you turned your tiered end, but don’t really know. Great videos and fab. Very educational.

Can't wait to see the Disco up & running on the road and trails... Your an artist with the welder 😁👍 going to be awesome brother.

Not to start something or bring up the past, im glad you seperated from Bleepin Jeep and did your own thing. Your videos and your teaching are done beautifully. Keep the videos coming

Awesome job on the pitman arm. Made to fit and upgraded to double shear.

And like always I can't wait to see the Disco on the trail 🤙

11 thumbs down...from haters with no skills and no desire to advance themselves. Good stuff Nate. I've been fabricating a long time but I always love to see another perspective. I remain a student to my craft. I'm particularly enjoying this series as it is very similar to my axle swap.

Good info as usual. Oddly enough I was just starting the same project for my xj. Never worried about my sector shaft until I got these new 40s. I like the end result and overbuilt is just my style. Good job man. Appreciate you! I'll be sure and hit up your vendor for some grinding disks... always in need.

I'm trying to improve my tow rig was wondering if you had any plans of doing any videos on ways to set up or improve your tow rig for towing your crawler.

I honestly don't unhook the battery. I have a small garage and usually have to pull stuff in and out. Most things are tig welded. Thanks for letting us know where to order abrasives. The metal shop is kinda high and options are limited to what you see on their wall.

The disco is looking awesome. Can’t wait to see it out in its element when the build is complete...

Can't get enough of your build videos!! Love your passion!

Sweet build. I have setup several suspensions my self and have one recommendation for up travel clearance. Stuff one side and droop the other then check for tire clearance (on front check lock to lock as well). You will find that it will make contact with fender well sooner than you think. I normally check clearance at full articulation and then add an additional inch or so to account for body roll. always do this before mounting shocks to get full use of shock travel. Keep up the custom work.

Awesome work dude. Videos are wicked always waiting for the next one. Keep up the good work 👍

This Disco build is awesome Nate , I'm learning a lot from you . Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us . I'm so looking forward to seeing it on the Trail to Sema . Take care and be safe my friend and also belated birthday wishes for your daughter .

It's a good thing you thought ahead on the pitman arm puller... In my experience LR steering boxes won't last long with big tires.

This is awesome. I have been thinking about doing this on my 1993 80 series with one tons.

Loving the Content! Great job Nate! Can't wait until Trail to Sema!

Ayyy another new sponsor! Great job sir 👍

Nate, you should apply for Ultimate Adventure next year with the disco, no doubt that you could get in with that!

I'm pretty sure this was supposed to be step 5 of this series, I hope; I've been following from 1 to 4; I see 6, 7 and 9 but I don't see 8. I hope I can see them all, this is really a great series with so much knowledge in it. I don't want to miss any of it.

Thank you so much for these extremely informative videos! Lifesaver

Nate love the videos. You make amazing content and the camera work is top-notch... There are too many monotone jeep channels that will put you to sleep.(you know the guy) 😴 I'm loving the fabrication series videos. Looking forward to the next video!!!

That middle diagram looks like the factory setup on TJs. I've always read that drop pitman arms are a bad idea.

Great build btw. I’m really enjoying the info. I’m picking up a D2 and I’m a metal fabricator.

Nate I want to send you my jeep and have u build it the right way! Been following you for a bit and I love your builds!

A little additional information about ecu problems with welding. In my experience your ground clamp is extremely important. If you do something stupid like welding on your body with the ground on the frame you might backfeed through a ecu ground to bridge that gap. I got to see a $1800 mistake on a mustang by someone welding on the firewall with the ground on the subframe. Electricity passed through the body mounted PCM to motor and then to the subframe.

This video was sweet! I'm super stoked on the land rover build. Your editing skills have come so far since the bleepinjeep days! Also, you should make some vector art stickers of the tj and the j10 and disco. I would definitely buy those!

I like the double shear I got for my pitman shaft with a bearing on the bottom. 99 ram 2500

I'd love for someone to "fix" the H1 pitman arm and idler. It's basically a consumable that has to be replaced every year because of the idiotic rubber insert in it is not up to the task of driving the steering system.

In regards to welding and electrical. The saying, “safety is not an accident” comes to mind. I purposely do things in preventing bigger headaches from happening 💁🏼‍♂️ but that’s me 🤗

Nate, I will probably never build an off-road dirt vehicle but your install and build suspensions, cross over well to Hotrods and Muscle cars.

In my opinion anything more than 3" drop just move the steering box down and make the steering column longer

Nice work

Superb explanation. I never want to experience a sector shaft break- In my opinion thats a worst case scenario. I've heard that the TR can be fit behind the front axle when all else fails.

As always good info and video,Just Did a sas conversion on a 99 Durango we used 2005 f250 axles and made a custom pitman but it is short and don't turn the tire completely, we need to make another one

Where are you at in the process of adapting the abs system to the axles? I imagine that might be a video in itself. Amazing stuff as always keep up the great work.

Next level , great content

I always love your videos, Nate. Always look forward to them on Sundays. Question, do you have plans any time soon to do an overland trailer from scratch?

Nice 👍 loving it 🍻

Hey Nate! Love the content! I am a high school kid with a 98 ford ranger I absolutely love this thing to death but I’d like to see it be more capable any quick bang for my buck things I can do? Thanks for taking the time!

I personally blew up a coil on a sbc welding on the truck it accurately popped leaked oil out

How did you come to the conclusion to rotate the axis of the tie rod end. And your comment section somebody question the unplugging of the computers. I always ground to what I'm welding on. If you ground to the frame and weld on the body or vice versa you can fry a whole lot more than the computer. Great video keep up the good work

On the topic of welding with the battery connected to the ECU. For both AC and DC current returns to source, as the vehicle is not the source of the energy there is no realistic reason the current from welding will travel through the electrical system especially if people are clamping the welder close to where there working.

One time I forgot to disconnect the battery while welding on my F-150. When I was done I turned the truck on and the headlights where on, I don’t have daylight running lights, and I thought that was weird. So I pushed the brake to put it into gear and when I touched the brake about 5 or six relays where clicking under the dash and the lights turned off! I let the brake go and the headlights turn on again. That happened like 10 times in a row. I try to never forget to take the battery off. It’s cheap insurance! It’s the same as when jump starting a car with a dead battery, you never want the helper vehicle to be on. Otherwise you are asking 600-800amp from the running car. Alternators and computers don’t like that.

Hey Nate, love the content and interaction. 95 Nissan hardbody extra cab tdi swap recommendations?

dang im glad theres a good suppllier of consumables!

I feel like this is the first time you've fabbed something up, but didn't really explain what you actually did. It seems like the new pitman arm is way thicker, and possibly lower(?) than before. I guess I just can't really tell what you changed to get better clearance.

Saludos desde México 🤟🤟

I'm trying to build a bullet proof ifs front end close to stock height any pointers tips? 88-98 gm4x4

Please build a cargo slide for Pich Ups. I need one for my VW AMAROK. You make great videos, a big thank you from a fan from Germany.

Damn man, you got a groopy!

How did you determine your up travel? Is there a way you chose 5 inches? As always great stuff!!

Love the video man. Question; What would be the best way to eliminate the need for a drop pitman arm? For reference, 4 inch lift on OBS Ford with twin I-beam suspension.

Oh, by the way, the pitman arm is drop-forged.. not sandcast or sand-casted.. I kindly mention... nice work Sir.. Does the heim joint in that orientation offer full range, as per, steering lock to lock.. The steering knuckles have a typical range of (right lock to left lock) of about 75 to 90 degrees (pending the steering stops adjustment)... and a heim joint with misalignment spacers will just start to max out at 65 to 80(pending the brand/manufacturer/size) ... Please note, I am not trying to sound overly critical, just curious. I do understand the way the nut and bolt in the pitman arm being vertical with added misalignment spacers consumes allot space, while not offering the double shear principals like what you have incorporated... which is clever, by the way.. I think more over, I am just getting excited, and desire to know more, and know I will have to wait for the future videos, that will show all of these details, as the program moves along... So, with that said, I will shut up, and just hold my horses, and wait like everybody else... LOL... I am an idiot.. I just now realized that... Okay, no I didn't just realize that, I have known for a long time I am an idiot.. I just don't declare it publicly that I am an idiot.. Okay, I need to stop typing know... or at least, maybe hit the "backspace key" a few hundred times... LOL... I am going away now... LOL where is my rock at...

Hey Nate! I’m in the market for a tube bender (most likely JD2) but as I’m sure you know the dies are pretty pricy when considering the price of the bender itself isn’t cheap. My budget only really allows for one bending die at the moment. What size die would you recommend I go with for building roll cages, bumpers, tire carriers etc? In other words what’s the most versatile tube size for those applications? Love the videos man!

Is there enough side to side twist in the heim joint for the steering box to go lock to lock?

You should look for a land rover TD5 for it once you're over the V8

Great Video as always. If you use Hydro Assist steering, does that relieve pressure on your drop pitman arm?

That was my work of art

Tig welding with high frequency start fries electronics maybe that is where the stories come from

I presume same basic principles apply to a cherokee acquiring Dana 60s from ford, swiching one to rear axle 4 link rear, thanks to you will build front end the right way. Surprised you didn't make pitman arm with sandwiched 3/8 steel.

What are you doing to protect your heims on a rig that will see a lot of highway miles?

I don’t have a pitman arm. But that’s because I’m running PSC full hydro 👍

Great stuff as always. I have a question. In your opinion, is there ever a point where the goal suspension height is not worth doing a long arm suspension? I'm thinking LJ since its what I'm building. I dont have a lot of lift, and dont intend to go very high. 2" or so, and then work up into the body rather than raising the suspension. Is there any reason I should steer away from a 3-link/4-link? The benefits seem worth the work, and I cant see a reason not to do it, even for such little suspension lift. Am i missing something? Thanks!

I forgot to ask you, how hard are gears to put in on the 30 & 8.25. My XJ could use lower ones but I'm a painter (auto, airbrush & Binks) don't want to get in over my head 😵 and I know you do all that stuff so I thought I'd ask. Thanks for your time brother.

Interesting how you rotated the rose joint on your droparm, does the joint have enough movement to account for full steering lock at bump and droop? Would be interesting to see it being cycled and how it all works out.

Hey mate, loving the build so far. Thoughts on a sector shaft brace? What your experience with em?

Hi nate I have a 00 TJ. I'm looking at rock sliders. What would be better frame mount or body mount sliders?

Looked a Discovery 2 with 240,000 miles on it for $2500 heard they had head gasket issues. Not sure if it’s for me or not. Got a Honda Pilot 4x4 and a 05 ram 1500 4x4 considered getting lockers for the front of the ram but they don’t make them for the light duty independent suspensions

Just curious. Would it help to move the axel forward some to clear the tie rod at the pitman arm? Or is that not an option for other reasons?

The other benefit to mounting the hiem joint vertical is that you are less likely to run out of misalignment if you are running big down travel. I had to bend my drag link to allow full down travel. Are you going to be doing anything to combat the tie rod roll from having a bent tie rod and hiem joints?

I like your solution, but I’m curious about hydro assist? Won’t that fix the stress problem? Which solution is easier to do?

I have just completed a 1 ton swap in my 2dr jk. I used the same super 60 front axles with the Barnes truss kit and high steer kit. I have now noticed that the turning radius is far off from stock. Is there any way I can correct it?

How confident would you be in welding lower control arm tabs to cast steel? As in cast wedge dana 44 ford, doing 3 link instead of factory radius

My truck has a pretty decent drop pitman on it now, about 8"-9" 😬. The bumpsteer is still atrocious and it's hokey as all fuck so I'm gonna have to go hydro. Sometimes you gotta go expensive. 🤷

Hey Nate, good stuff as usual. I'm in the south sound myself and wondering where you get metal at? I was thinking about Metal Supermarket in Kent, but wondering if there's a better place.

Can you do more videos on the tdi engine?

Reverse Polarity welders can fry ecu.

Test fitting after throwing 20lbs of weld in it😁😁

You sure you want that weld just outside the tie rod end almost perfectly in line with the load path from the pitman arm? Seems like a crack can propagate right along that weld on top...

Mr. Pickel, do you have any thoughts on closed knuckle vs open knuckle front axles?

How much rotational movement did you lose by rotating the heim joint 90 degrees? It has the appearance of reduced steering angles.

Those high strength demand components are forged, not cast. Quite a difference in material characteristics.

I’m not arguing but I’ve tried welding mild steel onto cast and it snapped right off. Wonder why your the pro.

love the channel just wish would slow down a tad and explain while workin instead so much music n b-roll but heh edits r superb bigtime . dont be scared to show ur human n make mistakes :) im in tacoma near pt defiance

Hey. Thank you for all the information.I NEED HELP!!!. I have a 91 yj 4.3 Cheavy V6. Sm420 tranny . 8.8.Ford rear. 35 tires.. Crappy Dana 30 in the front . first I broke the short disconnecting axle. The copied Matt. And installed a Cherokee land pax. Side axle. Broke both in the universal joint area.What do you suggest.Quadratec want $400+ for the disconnect axle. I don't do rock crawling.Must trails in my land here on south central TN. I know someone that has several International Scouts. Help.

To bad you can not put a bearing on the shaft on gear box under pit arm for more strength

When you gonna make progress on the tdi ultimate power project?

Disconnecting the battery is normally to protect the electronics from huge voltage spikes that could fry stuff on the 5v circuits etc... I think most of us get away with it though lol

Don't be surprised if you see your pitman arm on a peyronie's disease commercial Nate.

Why would you need more than five shocks?

👍💯

Question - not that I would do this myself but just from an engineering standpoint I am curious if instead of making the pitman arm Tangled what if like a stack of Dimes and it just stack some short pieces of iron and welded them together and then had the last piece come forward with panhard bar connection? Would that reduce the stress on the shaft? Because then it's not grabbing an angle it has essentially almost extended the shaft if you will. If you do not understand what I mean please ask because this is the kind of stuff I love when it comes to cars and trucks. And damn it is raining! I rabbit convertible is getting wet! I need to pull the carpet and spray the floors with bed liner and drill some drain holes. I also need to make custom vinyl seat covers so that I could essentially hose out the interior just like an old CJ! I'm going to do something to my Volkswagen to cross breeded with a Jeep just like I have added some Volkswagen stuff to my ZJ. You'd be surprised how similar the niche market for Jeeps and Volkswagens are. At least real Chiefs and real Volkswagens, the older stuff. Both utilitarian Vehicles just built for different purposes. An old water cooled Volkswagen is very light and handles on Rails and doesn't need a lot of power to go faster than a lot of cars worth two or three times the money. and just like Jeeps you can snag parts from bigger better and newer models I'm slapping on the older smaller slower stuff. And although they are both very simple they both do their jobs very well. And let's face it, an SUV with four-wheel coil spring is pretty badass even today. And so is a little teeny rabbit convertible that looks like the girliest car in the world handling like a Porsche and running with C5 ZO6 with a little 2.0l 16-valve turbo motor putting out over 300 foot pounds. kind of makes me want to turbo my 4L, but I think a 4.2 L Stroker opened up to breathe would be more appropriate. I do not want to sacrifice throttle response off roads. and I know no one will read all of this but what the hell I guess this is what you do when you have no friends LOL

😎👍

Do they make a full hydro system? Sorta like what the monster truck community uses? 🤔