Great He's back 😊😊

Filling the pores on raw wood, depending on the species can be a real pain in the butt. Mahogany is one that you really need to fill the pores first because you will be spraying lacquer over and over again so much you will lose count. I never tried it myself but I have seen many, and I think I even saw you use CA glue to fill pores. I have used sand 'n seal with some success, but still took layers of lacquer to finally get it. In the Martin factory they have a room where they hang guitars for lacquer and they spray them every 2 weeks until they are covered to their standard, the guitar(s) do not leave the room until it's right. That is the one reason I hate lacquer. Just thought I would throw that in. Painting is a different story. You can use spray putty if you have to. I do normally prime or if I use rustoleum I'll use the 2X Paint + primer. I have used the automotive enamel with great success, It makes for a good hard shell type finish. I'll shut up now, thanks for the video.

Thanks for the video Brad - after watching one of your videos, I used an Oxford paint kit to finish a Strat I built, was the first guitar that I finished at home that I was really pleased with the finish!

Thanks Brad. I’ve been using Oxford for a few years now because of your videos. Great stuff. Thanks man.

Hi! Welcome back! This could be a weird question. My friend has a teal Fender Dhani Harrison ukulele with an open pore satin finish. After borrowing it, I gently cleaned it for her with a Music Nomad product that said it was safe for open pore finishes by lightly spraying it onto a microfiber rag and then wiping the uke. It looked fine immediately after I cleaned it off, but by the next morning, it had hundreds of teeny dots as if the paint got eaten away or sank into the pores of the wood ever so slightly. This interestingly only happened on the headstock and body wherever the teal paint was, not on the back of the neck. Fortunately Sweetwater exchanged the ukulele under warranty (I was surprised that it would qualify for a replacement for damaged that happened with a cleaning product, but not complaining!). We just want to know what to do to avoid the same situation next time it needs a gentle cleaning. How does one clean an open pore satin finish from “arm gunk” without ruining the finish? Also, is there any way to seal the ukulele’s finish? My friend really likes the uke as-is, but if there’s a way to better protect it, it would be helpful to know. Thanks so much!

I'm no authority, but after owning my '69 Fender thinline since 1974, I think it's a shame Leo Fender didn't have your 'savy' or all the cracks embedded in my Tele's very old finish would still be crystal clear! 😊

With raw wood, if I'm going to paint rather than stain, I'm always using a grain filler (except for maple which doesn't need it) followed by primer. If I'm going to stain, then unless the wood is still really uneven after sanding (due to wide open grain), I never use a grain filler (and of course no primer). The goal there is to get the grain to pop out visually in a 3-D sort of fashion. If the wood *is* really uneven after sanding, and I'm planning to stain -- I've had some oak grain patterns do this -- then I'll stain first and follow that with a filler to smooth it out.

I usually do a spray on sealer first, then over that I then do the primer next. I know that's how I personally do mine.

Great bit of knowledge. Thanks Brad.

I used beige sanding sealer on an alder japan body then white primer and top coats of fiesta red nitro, worked nicely.

Thanks Brad.

Looking forward to more videos.Its crazy how much I learned from this channel.

Really appreciate you sharing all your knowledge on building and finishing guitars. I just started building kit guitars as a retirement hobby. My first was a StewMac 335 and now I've moved onto a Prango Custom Les Paul which I just received. The neck and fret work are amazing; however, the thin veneer on the quilted maple body is full of what I'd describe as stress or pockmarks. I can't sand them away because I'd probably sand through the veneer. My goal is to do a blue stain burst using Transtint dye diluted with water. Should I use sanding sealer and/or grain filler. Any insight is appreciated. My next project will be a Precision Tele Maple neck with Texas Special pickup. Just trying to work my way up to it.

im using polyester and polyurethane... never used primer or anything like that

Primer might be a good choice if you're repainting a guitar if you want to go much darker or much lighter. Just pick a light primer or dark primer depending on if you are going with a light or dark color. Just my 2 cents. 🤗😘😉

Hi Brad, I've watched a bunch of your video and they have inspired me to paint my guitar. It is going on Spring here in the Northeast of the U.S. and I'm trying to put together the list of the products I will need to start painting. My guitar body is already factory painted White Ash body with the grain texture coming through the paint. Would AquaCoat grain fill be good to use? Should I sand first before using the grain fill? Primer and then Dupli-Color premium paint with the final clearcoat using SprayMax 2k Clearcoat? Thanks for your help!!

And varnish ?

What about a pre stain conditioner ...???

I am planning on building a P bass from solo. I am planning on using rustoleum for this first project before i invest in heavy equipment, etc. What kind of sealer should i use that won't adversly effect the paint, etc. Also. Can i use a poly urethane, like the 2k rattle can you have mentioned, over the top of a rustoleum paint job? Im sorry if you have already addressed these questions elsewhere. Thanks in advance!

Love you videos dude! Curious, I sanded down to bare wood, an 80s Kramer and am going to paint a sunburst finish. Do I NEED a sealer or primer? I’m going for that vintage look, not wanting a gloss finish. If I don’t use any of them, I’m assuming I’ll see some grain correct? And there’s no harm to that? I’m going to be ordering Oxford paints since it’s local. But I’m stumped on if I really need a sealer or not.

Thank you, that video was very informative and answered a lot of questions that I have had regarding painting but does that apply to staining ?

With sealer, do you sand down to where just the pours are filled, or do you want the sealer completely covering the body?

Going to repair and refinish a Jackson my father gave me. I’ve been painting cars for 9 years but I’ve never refinished any of my guitars. I have to sand down some deep scratches and chips on the body, would taking the original finish off and sealing be recommended?

So for a solid colour on a swamp ash body could I just use a sealer, paint and a vintage clear coat from Oxford? I’m looking for a vintage cracked look.

Stains or dyes? Best prep?

I just finished grain filling on my first build. I'm using Oxford's deluxe finishing kit. The body has 7 ply binding. Do I need to mask off the binding before I spray the sanding sealer?

Thanks for the lesson. The biggest problem I have with finishing is filling the grain. The last body I did was based on your Strat job back in August last year using the ice blue metallic. The color came out beautiful but I didn’t get the grain filled. It’s a cheap, porous wood. I tried the CA glue as a filler and that didn’t work. Even though it’s a parts caster I just can’t let go of wanting a perfectly flat surface. What’s your quick thought on the best way to fill the grain?

Hey brad ! If i wanna stained the back of my guitar and spray paint the top, should i use a clear sealer on both side then use the same lacquer ? Thanks keep doing good videos, i love oxford too super easy to use

Im about to start painting my guitar within the next week or so and i have Primer filler? is that good or should i just get some primer and not primer filler?

So your saying if I have a factory guitar I don’t have to strip it all the way down to bare wood to repaint it? I can just rough it up with some 600 and then paint it?

During covid thd guitar I built I gad planned to use hydrodip film carbon fibre rainbow 🌈 design. Tests went great the guitar not so much😂

Great video Brad. I have a guitar kit that I need to paint. I am planning on painting it a red and black with a Marvel’s Blade theme. It’s made of Basswood so the grain is quite open. I have some two part epoxy that I could mix up and spray it with. Would that suffice? Or do I need to purchase a two pack sealer? I also have two tins of primer so I can use that over the epoxy. Hope you and your family are doing well.

With a PGK kit, where it's sanded to where it is, what would you recommend putting down for a smooth paint finish?

I've been having issues finding a good chrome that I can apply a clear coat to without them becoming extremely dull do you have any recommendations

What's your feeling about using epoxy as a sealer?

I tried to put olympic white directly over sunburst and had bleed thru issues, I intend to sand off the white and start over. Should I use sealer or white primer to prevent bleeding?

are you DONT need to do it?? Well, really telling me that if my guitar is ALREADY sealed, painted, etc, I DONT need to do it?? OF COURSE you dont need to seal and paint your guitar if it is ALREADY done?? Come on, man.