Great vid. I always pre-drill, it’s just safer and cheaper than having to replace timber stock on a job. More time consuming yes, but better in the end.

I worked for company that made and developed screws for all kinds of fixing problems. Screws as long 1000mm for glulam. And small stainless steel screws for decking. I agree with what Vince said good quality screws with self cutting dont need to be pre drilled.... but near the edge or expensive material why risk it to save yourself 10 seconds??! Good video.

Over 11 minutes of gab to answer a question with one word. Yes

Depends on the type of your work, Depends on the type of the screw Depends on the material Depends on you are drunk or not

Pre-drilling is also good for when the exact placement and orientation of the screw is important. A pilot hole helps make the screw goes exactly where you want it to.

I literally learned from sweet life of zach and cody during the woodshop episode that you have to pre drill a hole or you'll split your wood when I was like 14. I have always been handy and until then I had no idea why my wood was splitting no matter how careful I was. Ive been pre drilling ever since and without fail everytime I dont the wood splits EVERY TIME. not with smaller screws like sheetrock screw or smaller general construction screws but anything longer than 1 1/2" or thicker screws like GRK's it splits . If im making something that I want to be nice like a table or shelving I always pre drill.

One case where you need to pre-drill on drywall is sometimes with the metal studs like we have in FL. We normally use fine self-tappinf screws made specifically for attaching drywall to metal studs, but sometimes the metal stud is too loose inside the wall, or the screw just bends and pushes the stud back a bit so the screw will never penetrate the stud. Then we pull out an 1/8" drill bit and drill a pilot hole, then the drywall screw zips right into the stud where it would not penetrate at all before the pre-drill. Self tapping screws don't always work.

Basic physics. The larger diameter fastener, the larger amount of wood that gets displaced...the wood has no where to go but out away from the point where the pressure is being applied versus removing the wood with a bit by pre drilling, lessening the chance of a stress fracture.

Totally agree with this especially in wood. I've had so many buddies that come from commercial and industrial construction that DESTROY wood and drywall because they overkill everything.

Good stuff to know. I always drill small pilot holes if I'm adding stuff to uprights or rafters. Even for small screws. Don't want to risk cracking an important board like that.

buddy a good little trick if you dont have time to pull out your drill bit .just reverse the screw to your wood for a few seconds then go straight in it works like a charm

If I want my fasteners to hold up to the extreme, I always pre-drill! Good advice V!

Another great tips video Vince, thanks. BTW I know what happened to the wood that went missing. Someone found it and sold it on the black market to use the money as down payment on a new car.

Great advice VCG! I always pre-drill. I sometimes even pre-drill my pre-drill. (I don't get to use my tools as much as I'd like)

The guy convinced me to predrill. Thanks for the great content!

Especially when trying to attach 2 loose pieces of wood together. Without. Predrilling a lot of the time once the fastener hiths the secone piece it doesnt start into it immediately and spreads the two pieces apart. When it is something that must be flush this could totally kill production

Thanks I’m a beginner ever done this before so I appreciate this video and how you guys get into detail with 🛠 tools and how they work is awesome guys

To be precautious to provide quality results is always a good advice in any industry.

Nice video. Just want to add if you live in a place where temperatures go from -20°C to +35°C you definetly want to predrill anything that stays outside whole year. Found out the hard way.

"pre drill, counter bore, counter sink". From Norm Abram, Master Carpenter :)

We do electrical for a lot of steel garages/ workshops. I usually always predrill when we are hanging stuff like lights off the ceiling. Self tappers do do the job fine but I find it easier to get everything marked out and drill the hole first then have to be trying to hold the light fixture exactly in place in one hand when trying to push with enough leverage on the other to get the screw to go through while balancing on top of a 12 ft ladder. I keep the bit in my baby impact in one pocket and my Surge with the correct fastener bit on my other pocket. Speeds things up not having to switch out bits and makes it easy to work at heights. Great vid vince!

As an apprentice joiner it was "drilled"into me to always pre drill,why not take the extra time and do it right.

That's one of the reasons I pre-drill but also to make sure when I tried to screw in it actually pulls the two boards together or three of them together not leaving gaps because sometimes it pushes in part when it's not pre-drilled

Lol, from the thumbnail the first thing that came to mind was STOP buying DeWalt! Love you guys. Looking slim Nick, you boys been hitting the gym? Vince you always come with it bro, thanks for the greatest channel on the tube!

Many years ago I started wiping each fastener on a soft bar of soap and it makes any non-pre-drilled insertion 1/2 as easy. Remarkable in hardwoods Works on drilled also..

I pre drill as noted in my crating video (Shameless plug LOL). Usually if I am using anything bigger than a # 10 screw in any wood. Metal is also pre drilled. Self drilling and taping screws are for temporary and emergency fixes.

Especially at near end or edge of solid wood stocks, pre drilling is a must or you are SCREWED with a nasty split.

To answer the general question yes. With the rough lumber and what it is actually he was discussing in rough framing generally no. Hardwoods alot of straight grain I might.

I’m from NZ and even though the building standard between the USA and NZ are different, if learnt a few things from you. Cheer bro!

Hey Vince I learnt a trick that helps when fastening deck screws to deck boards. If you throw the drill in reverse you can prevent drill the hole so it doesn't split by just boring out the hole with the screw in reverse

Depends on the trade and material. In cabinetry you often can’t possibly get a particular job done without predrilling. I predrill 100% of my holes.

I'd be doing work with my dad old an OLD house, 1900's old, and he'd be the quick and easy type of guy and I'd always argue we need to do it right. Screwing stuff into those ancient joists I'd strongly advise him to predrill, he'd say there's no need, first screw in cracks the ancient joist in half. Great. Every time.

I always pre drill at the end of the wood, it's usually where it split the lumber,

Best tool channel around.

Thank you for covering pilot holes, pre drilling. I run into problems with people not using pilot holes and f$#@! good work pieces. Also to note, using pilot holes relieves internal stresses in materials causing cracking when materials dry. Awesome vid bro

Predrilling is essential for a lot of stuff. Even if you don't crack the wood right away, you're putting constant pressure on it that you don't want, and as things shift, especially with temperature you risk having an issue. The few extra seconds are less costly than having to rebuild an entire project, especially with parts that you won't have extras of sitting in your van.

Good vid Vince! Time is money, so by pre-drilling, you are potentially saving money in lumber replacement costs. I pre drill when possible, I’ll spend the time instead of the cash.

@VCG Construction Thanks for the great channel! Here in Germany, where impact drivers are not that common, unfortunately, is a kind of heated up discussion ongoing whether you should use those SPAX screws with an impact driver. As far as I know, there is no official statement available from "SPAX", if those screws are to be used with impact drivers. Also the original SPAX bits, do not have a impact torsion zone. Which is also a kind of message, I would say. Do you know more? I think this is a very important fact for the community. Thank you.

I pre drill about 90% of everything I screw together, also the best way to size a bit in my opinion is to match the bit to just under the width of the shaft where the threads are

lmao You literally overflow with charisma. Subscribed.

If I'm trying to get away without pre-drilling, but the screw starts to bind or squeak halfway down, as if it's going to break or split the wood, I just reverse the drill and turn the screw backward at a much higher speed. It gradually sinks in maybe another 1/4", then I go forward and try it again. After one or two tries, it almost always goes in without splitting the wood.

If it's rough work i put it in reverse for a few secs... but if your going to see it and its big or close to the edge i will predrill....

We don’t have the superb skill like you 😉

Read the NDS on lags. Lags must be predrilled twice, once for the minor diameter (threaded) and then the major diameter (unthreaded). This is why we use SDWS (Simpson Strong Tie) lag replacement screws with self tapping tips and torque reducing knurls.

Spot on brother! Preach it. Of course, the pro's in the know choose....... To do what has been working without failure for years and years. Yo, to be honest, I won't even do cabinetry installations without my old pony 8510 bp face frame clamps. They also have the sleeve for my pilot bit, and sleeve swing away for the sleeve built in to center my tapered countersink bit. All without moving or removing the clamps. No way I'm doing cabinets without. I will do a large pre drill and use large carriage bolts on some large structural timber framing. But I like the timberlok self drill lags. The best out in my opinion. They are indeed stronger than your average lag bolt. Who hasn't had a lag bolt snap with little torque at the end of fastening? Even by hand. So those are my go to options for timber framing. Either gets bolted or timberlok. Unless owner requests all of those fancy steel plates. I don't do full on timber joinery like the big time pros do. I am fascinated by it, but I have enough going on. You nailed it Vince! Or screwed it I suppose! Thanks for the video cuz! 👍💯

BEST TOOL CHANNEL ON THE PLANET!!!! LOVE YOU GUYS!!!!

Good information on pre-drilling Vince. Thanks for the vid and congrats on 110K subs. Cheers!

Depends on a lot of factors. the type of wood the hardness of the wood, how wet or dry the wood is how thick the fastener is, it's all decisions you have to make on the fly with your experience.

Super clear and thanks man, excellent

Good video Vin. Thanks.

Surprised you even have to make this video, but I’m sure you guys get all types. Informative none the less.

The log screws can also twist and break right in the wood if you don't pre-drill, so like for example White pine board is soft so most of the time I don't bother to pre-drill, I just run them through with my impact wrench um especially if I'm only going to drive one or two, if i have to go back to my truck for a bit, na na na, but if it's oak are yellow pine especially the one with alot of tree stain makes the wood harden, and I will pre-trail or maybe if I'm going driving it at the end of the wood, get the drift 🌝

And for me... I have to drill through a lot of metal and it definitely helps to predrill

I would add some things to your video: when you work in soft wood (construction or furniture) it has more capability to compress. I like to pre-drill a hole of size little bit smaller than the screw core, because wood around it would get compressed and there will be more strenght added to that screw. If the hole is too big, you can break the thread in that wood. Fasteners which are desined to be screwed without predrilling often have little fins beetween thread, which are ment to crush and grind wood around fastener, so they release some pressure. If i'm about to screw in the middle of OSB board (or plywood and i don't care about rough edge) i don't predrill even if core is quite big. The only thing is, if it is hard plywood, without pre-drilling srew can break because of applied forces. And if it didn't break, and you unscrew such screw, it is extremely hot ;) If i work in hardwood, pre-drill diameter shoud be even bigger than the core. Once i was placing a steel threaded insert in beech table leg, and it splitted a little - fortunately it was on hidden side, so after glueing and increasing hole diameter it was fine.

Great video... we use spax and grk all the time

Pre drill to maintain the integrity of your build!

that "drive it this way.. drive it that way" yell was hilarious vince! great editing too nick!! 😅

You don't really have to pre-drill if you know what you're doing it splits the bored most of the time if you hit the grain line other than that you just need to know what your using and material

Whoever said or is saying you dont need to predrill for fasteners does not do any work with mdf or particle board material. that stuff cracks and swells even if you do predrill if hole is not sized right.

It's pretty simple if you think about it. When you pre drill you are removing material. Pre drilling screws cut the wood but where does that material go? It gets compressed into the surrounding material. You're just hoping that the material can handle that extra pressure. Depending on many variables grain, moisture content, etc, it may split or it may not. Eventually you will split something and when you do it will be at the worst time and in the worst spot.

I know nothing and this helped tremendously

I need to mount 74/10/2 inch ledger boards to three studs studs using 4 inch lag screws. I think it would be a challenge to predrill through the ledger board and studs, and then drive the bolts precisely through pilot hole behind the ledger board and within the stud. Should I be fine without a pilot hole?

This guy love his job. Great vid.

As a guy who builds cabinetry and does other woodworking...we don't use Spax for face frames or any area really that could be seen. We use glue, pin/brad nails or other hidden fasteners. We do however use spax for the carcass construction and other tasks requiring screws. Spax in my opinion is literally the best screw manufacturer in existence. I have used many and have never had a single one break or strip out...EVER! I can't say that about any other screw. I wish they would expand their offerings so I would only have to buy one brand of screw.

For lag bolts a drill bit that is 1/8th inch smaller than the bolt will be sufficiant to allow the bolt to bite the wood.

Also for smaller diameter wood you may have to pre drill with screws you normally wouldn't, like a 1*4, or a 2*2, or similar case, those things that are more likely to split on ya, also sometimes you need to countersink as well to prevent splitting and to have a better looking end product

I prefer to pre-drill, especially near the ends or edges of boards. And always when using lag bolts. As for "wood" screws, they make drill bits for them, threads, shank, and countersink for the heads. The heads will often split the wood, even when the shaft of the screw did not.

I think there are times when predrilling for construction screws make sense. 1. You're making something furniture like and there is a lot of work invested in making the parts. You don't want to mess with a split that requires remaking the part. 2. Sometimes it can be awkward to get the screw started and having a hole to start the screw in helps get it started.

Particle board and MFD require pre drilling or they will swell or split especially when fastening edges

Yup I’d always pre drill my holes to receive a screw or similar fixing less wear n tear on impact driver I would have prefferef to have a switch to turn off the impacts if necessary but otherwise it’s all about increasing the longevity of your tools less wear on the screw fixing going in too so there’s plenty of positives

These poor fellas trying to give solid advice to save others' time and all I'm seeing is "I'm gonna pre drill anyway." Great video and I love the information I've found from this channel about all sorts of brands!

Too many comments to check if this has already been mentioned. Predrilling is often the way to go, but also open up the surface wood, with a drill close to the outside diameter of the fastener so that the parts get pulled tight. You can't always close a gap with thread held in either part, more than likely you will shear it due to it all locking up.

"STOP DOING THAT". Lol, I split lots of woods already. Some looked okay just right after sinking the screw but only to find out later it split . To save time and worry I made pre drilling a practice

Well yes you do, even double countersunk screws do not sink perfectly, pre drilling holes is what keeps the screw neatly in line and keeps the mess and torsion low

putting a screw into wood you are compacting or pushing the wood out to make room for the core of the screw and that's why wood splits. Pre-drilling a hole, you remove that wood that would be compact/ pushing out, leaving the helix part of the screw to grab the wood. pre-drilling also allows you to guide the screw in the exact place you want and is good for when are screwing screws at an angle.

If I am connecting a 2*4 to 1*1 with a screw....how long should my screw be? Should I predrill into the 2*4 or both wood or don't need to? If so, what size should the drill be? and whats the best way to keep the wood equal so I don't lose my holes aligned.

Hi Guys!!! Hey, here's a stupid question. When pre-drilling, is there a good rule-of-thumb on sizing the drill bit width to prevent splitting, but keep the holding power of the screw? Should the drill bit width always be the width of the screw's solid shaft? Or, can the drill bit width be any size less than the screw width to prevent splitting?

My house is built with old growth pine. The rings are so small and dense , you have to pre-drill if you going to go deep into the studs.

Happy Wednesday guys! Keep up the great work !🧰⛏🔩🔧🔨⚒🛠

Sometimes it's kinder to use the drill with screwdriver bit, rather than using an impact driver.As you can use the tourqe settings

I'm buying every word u say, darn this channel is good

Jesus Christ, how about a yes or a no? This isn't a podcast you know, quick info is always appreciated when your short on time.

PRE-DRILL!!!!!!! Always. Makes driving the screw ALOT easier. Saves wood from splitting.

vince you are the coolest. smooth like buttah.

I feel a little better now. I built a big swing set for my kids and didnt use pilot drill the entire time until someone told my I can damage the wood doing it that way.

Also, the closer to the outside edges of the board, the more likely you are to get a split or crack. The moisture content of the board will also affect how likely the board will crack/split when a fastener is driven through it.

Another thought on pre drilling in cabinetry, those "self drilling" screws don't do the same thing as a drill bit, they may cut their path easier with the teeth cut into the shank, but they do not remove any material, they will push the shavings in to the hole, causing more stress and increasing the likelihood that the wood will split, a drill bit will eject the shavings you drill out. So no matter what it is imperative to pre drill in that application.

Also it drains your batteries if your not pre drilling your wood. I had a guy anchoring lag bolts to cross members and he was moving quick and I noticed it was because he wasn't pre drilling , long story short our foreman found out and kicked him off the site, we later realized all our batteries were Dead.

Great tips to pre drilling so the screw dosen't come out of the side of the cabinet

They should make a bit for a impact wrech for drilling

You're freaking awesome and hilarious!!

If you have a weak drill, yes. If you dont want your long drywall screw to squeek so loud, yes. Or not or you can just smudge your drywall screw on a soap so that it wont squeak when you drive it in.

If you're hanging a tv and are using small 1/4" lags to bolt the bracket to the drywall, still need to predrill? Vid was kinds saying fat lags you predrill but fasteners are good to go, what about smaller lags?

Whats with the batting gloves? Are you filming this during the 7th inning stretch of a big softball game?

I was thought that If you predrill a hole with the correct drill bit, the threads of the fastener actually fastens the pieces of lumber tighter and more efficiently. On delicate woodworking projects I do predrill. When I’m at work, I’ve never predrilled a hole in anything other than cabinet doors.

Last week I worked with a self proclaimed carpenter with 25 years experience, we were installing a new glass door and he wanted to use framing screws for the lock striker plate, I told him that was a bad idea he should use the appropriate screws that came with the lock or at least make some pilot holes. Long story short it was a 12 hour work day because he destroyed the frame of the door and that led him to destroying the header with a wedged in 2x4 stud. I don't want to brag but I think me being only 20 years old could have done a better job then this "experienced" carpenter.

Do you need to predrill when swapping out those short screws used for door hinges and locks for 3 inch screws, or can you just use an impact tool instead of a drill and predrilling, without causing wood to split?

Good job sir. Thank you for the video !!!!

Just finished making a set of storage shelves and the first one was not pre-drilled. It split the wood. The second set of shelves made were pre-drilled and no splits.

I sometimes go overboard with the pre-drilling, even for #8 2inch screws 😂