Excellent comments. I’m glad you took the time to tell us about your positive sewing machine exploits. Every machine can be an adventure for sure. I’m glad your feed gear wasn’t cracked and I hope it lasts forever. Sounds like you have a high level of skill, and tenacity that’s off the charts. Thanks again for your awesome comments and thanks for watching.

Glad it's still working for you! I'm a big Kenmore fan and have quite a few. The are SEW (ahem! 🤪) dependable. It's a shame they began using plastic gears. I'd like to think their terrific mechanical engineer/designer Charles Harrison, was not pleased.

Be sure to get the front load, 15 class,158 series. I have videos that are five years old, but the information is still relevant. I’m glad to assist. 😎👍🏼

If the gear isn’t cracked, just be careful on heavy fabric so it doesn’t break. It’s not a bad machine otherwise, it just has that Achilles gear.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 oh thank you! I’ll keep that in mind when using it

@@amandadunlap5091 😎👍🏼

The gears are ok with no grease or a light grease. The triflow would be fine.

All true observations my friend. If it’s not a front load, 15 class, metal geared, front facing tension assembly, 158 series Kenmore, it’s not premium material for long term success. IMHO 😎

And this is disenheartening to me, as the -1980 is one of my very mostest favoritest machines. Inasmuch as Zamak (the alloy you refer to) is brittle, it;s also very dimensionally stable once cast and we can leverage that knowledge to our advantage ahead of time. Take careful measurements with a digital caliper or, better yet, a micrometer, and that way any repairs can be made back to original dimension where that number is critical.

@@theprojectproject01 The 1980 could have been as strong and durable as the 1914 it replaced had they used strong steel and iron components instead of nylon and Zamak (I stand corrected, and I'm perfectly fine with being corrected, thank you for the correct name of this type of metal). Zamak is fine, so long as you are not trying to torque on it. It will not take any stresses applied to it, and has been known to snap and shatter, depending. With these machines using white nylon gears; gears you cannot buy anywhere new to my knowledge (I know people that now have paperweights that once were functional sewing machines because of this), these machines, once that/those gears crack, it's game over. Some have tried to repair them, but that isn't really an effective solution. Some are experimenting with 3D printing, but that's still not really a proven repair just yet. The fact that some of these models have a worm gear up top that is made of nylon in itself is testament to the slow slide into obscurity for Kenmore built sewing machines. I had a 1251 from 1975 that had a plastic camstack up top. That part was made out of the denser black plastic that was not prone to cracking like the white nylon is, and was not a load bearing part. While that machine would never be labelled Heirloom quality, it's as close as you could get to that durability with a plastic component in terms of a machine that will last decades with the proper maintenance. I'm not hating on plastic provided it's the type that is strong and not prone to splitting and cracking like that much stronger, denser black plastic material used not only in this version of Kenmore sewing machines, but as well put into the Janome built 385 Kenmore sewing machines. I've rebuilt a few of the mid-1980's models, and even beaten nearly to death Kennies still had all of it's mechanicals in perfect condition despite the clear abuse and neglect they've endured. Janome, at that time were wise enough to engineer certain types of plastics into non-load bearing areas, and also made nylon gears that were stronger than the stuff sold now. They all had hard metal cores, and if a machine did suffer a split gear, the gears could be purchased and a repair effected. These machines, while they will never be up to the standards of a fully metal machine are a damned sight more durable than the current completely made of plastic lineup now offered by Janome. I know, I was foolishly rooked into buying one, thinking it was a mid-80's build quality. NOPE, it's all completely made of hard, designed to fail plastic or paper thin nylon. All of it, every last component that you cannot see under the hood, with no exceptions. Their entire product line is now all plastic, save for the H9, which, pathetically, also has a big, thin plastic drive shaft gear in it as well. So, your fave generation of Kenmore, while still sporting failure prone plastic gears and potentially breakable Zamak metal rods is still a superior machine in every way to anything built by Janome, even the mid 1980's models that were much better engineered than the machine builds that followed. Your 1980 is feature-rich, and when it's working correctly could provide a fantastic sewing experience. It's top load bobbin setup is a lot more convenient than a side loader, to be sure. And the mechanism for the accessories in the rear is far more user friendly than the 1970's Kenmore machines that snapped onto the front bed of the machine. All good things. It is also a very handsome machine across the board. What it never will be is as durable. I own a 1914 that I am currently in the process of restoring. It is the very last of the nearly all-metal wonders. It's a heavy machine, and with the exception of the hard plastic handwheel and control panel viewer up top, every nut and bolt is steel. Even the rear panel (most Kenmore's of this era had plastic rear panels) is a strong aluminum panel. It also sports a 1.2 amp motor, and can really sew a strong, defined stitch. I have yet to test it out on heavy fabric, but I'm going to venture a guess and assume that this machine will sew through pretty much anything I put to it without so much as breaking a sweat. I believe you could do similar things with a 1980, but would not advise it. Just because you can do a thing does not mean you should. Gears are load bearing, and the 1980 has old gears that cannot be replaced (again, to my knowledge), and that are long past their expiry date and could conceivably crack under the strain. Nylon fatigue is as real as metal fatigue, and I'd hate to think of your machine as a new edition to the Kenmore paperweight club. Your 1980, despite the materials engineered into certain parts does sew a fine stitch, and can sew a pair or jeans with finesse, not to mention the embroidery and stretch stitching Kenmore is so highly regarded for. No one said you could not repair Zamak. The only thought I have on this is why did they not use the metals they always used on their machines. Zamak will work forever inside of a machine, sure. Try removing it; that's when things go south, sadly. I wish I could find that video of someone literally shattering the feed dog piston rod when trying to remove it for cleaning in a 1981 (year not model number) Kenmore sewing machine. It wasn't a pretty sight. And...it's the very reason I went with a 1914 instead; once I learned that the 1980 had nylon and (thank you again for the correction) Zamak components in it. Sad, because it's a spectacular machine in all respects except for those two materials which could potentially become compromised; one by simply cracking, the other by simply trying to remove it.

I think the carry case will work. The cabinet most likely will not. Not sure about the controller as I’m away from the shop. I think it’s proprietary to that machine only. It’s kind of a “one off”.

It’s not a bad machine. It’s a 15 class system, so that’s good. If it’s all there, it should be a winner.

I don’t have a video on that. The next chance I get, I’ll make one.😎

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 that would be great. I haven’t found one yet with specific instructions.

Do an online search and enter that model number and multiple suppliers will be be available. It should be an easy acquisition. Thanks for watching.

Thank you

@@anbash7703 you’re welcome.

There’s many things that can be done, but to what end? What purpose? If it’s just for the sake of accomplishment, go for it. If it’s to birth a profitable enterprise, let me know when you take it public and I’ll try to be a supportive part of your IPO. 👍🏼😎

Any updates on your metal gear CNC project? Just bought a 158.1680 at a Goodwill for $15. Guess what - cracked white gear underneath. Not worth returning it since we bought it when we were traveling out of town.

If the machine is unusable in its current condition, you have nothing to lose if you try. If however, it will suffice as a straight stitch only machine, try not to risk that reality and turn it into a non-functional door stop. It’s totally your call.

Here’s my list: Any Kenmore 158 series machine that is: 1) front load 2) 15 class bobbin and hook End of list. That’s thousands of good Kenmore machines.

That should be a good one. Oil it up and get sewing.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Awesome! Thanks, did they ever make those kenmore machines with metal gear on top?

@@usefuleater they make a replacement gear, but I’m not sure if it is available in a metal version.

Sorry. I can’t reply in Spanish.

There’s too many good ones to list. Just make sure that the Kenmore you’re after has a front loading 15 class bobbin, is a 158 series, and has the front facing tension assembly. If it’s made in Japan, that’s great also. Doesn’t matter if it’s a flatbed or a free arm. 👍😎

I know you posted this a while ago. But I was gifted a 1400 in 1970 and I LOVED it. It's not the most sophisticated of the Kenmores, but it will do just about anything you need. It's all metal, front loading, tough, and a workhorse. Keep it clean, oiled properly and you'll have a machine which will serve you for a lifetime and beyond. I was stupid enough to sell mine about 30 years ago. I missed it, so went out and found a duplicate for my collection. It's a sweet machine.

I’m almost certain it’s the platform with the composite gears that are non metal. If it’s the free arm model with the drop-in bobbin, it’s likely to have the plastic gears that are prone to crack. If you can get a better one, I’d recommend doing that.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 if it is cracked, there is no way to replace it?

@@freedragonfly I don’t know if a reliable source for the gear. If the gear isn’t made to OEM (original equipment manufacturer) specs, it will be impossible to install and guarantee.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 tysvm

If it’s a top load drop in bobbin, I’d skip it. The ones with the metal drive gears are 15 class snap in bobbins. Either a front load or a side load is preferable and doesn’t have plastic gears.

There’s many good videos on KZfaq to get you started. I’ve made a couple myself. Have fun. 😎

Class 15 is the proven winner. 👍🏼

I’m not sure that is has a drop feed, but if it does, it will be either in the right front of the feeders, or off to the right side in front of the free arm area. Next one that I get in for service, I’ll give you a definitive answer. 😎👍🏼

It doesn't have a drop feed that I know of but thank you.

@@Hiccupbee 👍🏼

Excellent observation!

It’s always boiled down to how much a consumer is willing to spend for ultimate quality and dependability. If there’s a manufacturer who would appear on the scene and use the machining technology that is available, they could make the ultimate, lifetime machine, that would be in its own category and price range. It would be for the buyers who are driving Lexus and Acuras and appreciate having the best, regardless of price. (Like a Kenmore 158 series) If it’s a disposable, mass production clone for bean counter appeasement, you get what we have at our disposal now. Thanks for your insight, and thanks for watching.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I meant to add... 3D printing could get a new gear made pretty cheaply. Of course it would still be plastic, but. 🤷 Actually working with a friend now on reverse engineering the Kenmore monogrammer cams to maybe make some different characters and numbers.

@@TheTreegodfather that sounds like a fun adventure. Plastics have come a long way since Benjamin was told of their relevance to future events, in 1969.(The Graduate)

Small boat perhaps.😀

The Kenmore 158’s that are front load, 15 class, are not associated with the plastic gear set up, found in the top load version. As a rule, I would avoid acquiring a top load (drop in bobbin) Kenmore, as they are problematic, as opposed to problem free.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you. ❤

@@nancycat2588 you’re welcome 😎👍🏼

Any 158 series that is a front load, 15 class set up has the metal drive gears. If it has the top load, drop in bobbin, it has the breakable nylon (plastic) gear.

Yep, my current .168 has the plastic gear. On the hunt for another model to be safe :)

@@Binksinboots just look for: 1) front load 2) 15 class 3) 158 series 4)Kenmore Easy peasy

@@Binksinboots thanks!

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Found one an hour away, 158.19461. Thanks for your insight, and wonderful videos!!

Gracias. 👍🏼😎

Not all the feed gears break. If you turn the hand wheel and it tightens up, then pops, and then feels loose again, it probably has a cracked gear. The only way to know for sure is to remove the bottom cover and take a look. Good luck 🍀

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 It didn't come with a manual, can you recommend best site to get one. They all seem to charge. $

@@cindysantos922 unfortunately they will have to make a little to stay in operation. You might find a book cheap at shopmygoodwill.com. Good luck

I can get the part no problem. It’s an hour to install it. Minimum charge to replace it: $200. No one will spend that kind of money on that machine. So just get one without a fiber, nylon, or plastic gear, and never have to worry about it. 😎

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Yes, my husband just said the same thing. If it were my machine, I would pay it. Well, worth the 200 or so to fix it, if you can afford it, in my humble opinion. I've already got a Kenmore. I've got the 158.15251. Great machine.

@@rebawasswass3716 if you have metal gears, you have no concerns about gear breakage. I just try to warn people that even though it’s a Kenmore, and a good machine, it’s always wise to be sure about the gears.

​@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have not found ANY gear supplier yet for that nylon drive gear. Who is your supplier?

@@geraldkahn2535 I don’t have one. If the part isn’t original equipment manufacturer produced, I don’t want it. An out of spec gear is more trouble than it’s worth. I don’t fix these issues on machines.

Aluminum is fine. After you pay the expense of the CNC setups and then installation labor, it gets cost prohibitive in a machine of marginal value. For a broken gear in a higher value machine, like a Bernina 830, that might be a plan.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Let's say a guy like tenthplanet here makes a correctly machined and well-fitting gear. In your opinion, would the installation of it be doable by an experienced DIY guy without any specialized tools or previous experience taking apart the mechanism involved? For example, two or three hours of my time for a successful repair would definitely be worthwhile.

@@jameswangerin1755 that’s a feasible proposition. The cost of the gear would be issue number one. Installing it, is issue number two. Setting the pattern pendulum timing and making the machine perform correctly is issue number three. The problem with sewing machines that have non metal gears, is that they usually have two to six gears that have to be replaced at the same time. It could get challenging. If someone wanted to test their methods, they could duplicate the gear sets in a Singer 834. Either the two hook drive gears or the two feed gears would be ones I’d take an interest in. Be sure that they have the 2.5 millimeter set screws threaded in place as well.

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for your comprehensive response.

@@jameswangerin1755 sure thing. 😎👍🏼

Yes, you are spot on. It’s usually a series of bad decisions over time that cause the demise of even mighty institutions. Rarely is it just one catastrophic event. When the culture of a business changes from being customer centric, to profit driven, small sacrifices have to be made. Like quality. Quality has a cost and a price. Thanks for your thoughtful comments. 👍🏼😎

When the plastic drive gear breaks, it’s pretty bad. To be on the safe side, get a front load, 15 class, Kenmore 158 series. Good stuff. 😎

If you can print a hardened steel, machined,precision metal replacement gear, then you’ve really got something. Otherwise, you just might as well have 3-D glasses. 😎👍🏼