Man you are good. Did I say you are good? This was perfection. Thank you for these video’s.

This has got to be the best patch panel video I have ever watched. I've seen too many people approach fabricating a patch panel without fully forming the patch to match the profile of the panel they are patching. They put a couple of tacks on one edge and and force the rest of the patch to fit the panel. This builds tension into the patch which will transfer into the larger panel at some point. This may not be a big deal on a small patch, but on a larger patch it will pull the original metal out of it's proper alignment causing bulges and weirdness and if your body is on a rotiisserie, good luck getting that to sit on the frame real nice. You also made a good point about cutting a radius on the corners of the patch panel. Another good reason for doing this is that if you have a sharp 90 degree corner on a patch, you hit that corner twice with the torch (once horizontal and once verticle) doubling the heat introduced to that corner which causes more warpage than the other weld areas turning them nto a problem which could have been avoided by making the corners into curves. If anyone out there wants to build the Gene Winfield sheet metal bender, there are plenty of videos on KZfaq about how to make one. Great video... loads of good advice.

A Mike cameo and some clown horn time!!! Bravo gentlemen! Two thumbs enthusiastically up!!!! 👍🏼👍🏼 In all seriousness a master class on patches. You included the details that make ALL the difference. This video saves hours of head scratching and trial and error.

His explanation is absolutely accurate. Its all comes down to experience and technique. I learned all this in trade school ( I am an absolute dinosaur). We only had oxy/ acetylene welding equipment and added a lot more heat and shrinkage than mig or tig. The weld with oxy/ acetylene was very maliable like a tig weld and is basically the same skill set. The difference is an electric flame that depending on your welding machine is much easily controlled versus a gas flame that requires much more understanding of min ute setting changes. But it all boils down to if theres more shrinkage, it requires more stretching. As he accurately explains, at the source or the shrinkage..the weld bead...hammer the bead and stretch it back out.. I grew up with a bullseye pick and a vixen file. Remember that the file is only a marking tool to see you highs and lows. It is straight and you can trust it better than your hands sense of feel. ( think guide coat). Knock down the highs if necessary and pick up the lows.. with a little practice you can be producing beautiful metal work! There's a lot of leeway in techniques according to what is most comfortable to you.. and only you can determine if the results are satisfactory...but always strive to improve and learn from other people's techniques. Bodywork and metal shaping is a life long journey. Enjoy the journey!

Once again, very well explained process! that pipe brake gave me a number of ideas..thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge, so many shops want to protect their processes. Cheers,Pat

Good technical breakdown, metallurgy is key to great quality repair. Your technique is very high level and helps keep metal finishing alive. Thank you

Well that was an education by thorough knowledge, experience, instruction and demonstration. The most comprehensive and indepth panel fitment video I have ever watched. Very professional and I must say, the delivery style of the lesson, first class tutoring! Even an old dog like me learned something new and worthwhile and will use what I learned on either my old Jaguar or on a customers car in due course.

Brilliant... thank you for your advice, education and willingness to us all that knowledge

Just found your KZfaq page, very happy I did. You should be an instructor! Very informative and detailed, Thank you.. I have subscribed and will be watching all your other videos. Thanks again. We are trying to restore an 89 K5, damn thing is almost new now..... Never knew they rusted like this...

Hey man, I am looking at starting a DIY restoration on a pretty expensive and rare chassis. I appreciate these videos and im glad you are continuing to do them!

Invaluable information , and greatly appreciated.Many thanks.

Great technical explanation!

Square corners are a no-no in metal work. You radius crank journals, lathe work, even sheet metal. History reports failures on the DeHavelin jet aircraft at the square windows that destroyed structure in the airframe causing 3 crashes. I love that bending pipe jig with schedule 40 pipe. Home stores will sell pre-cut black pipe but has oil on it, so clean then weld. $100? Caster from harbor freight not included but get two locking and two swivel. You have a man with new tool! Or lassi. I like flange tool with proper depth. Great lesson and wish I could buy a TIG. $1,500+ is not in my future. Thanks.

Appreciate this man. He is giving you a real lesson!

Oh man, this is one heck of a good education! Thanks

THANKS!!! Learned lots from this!

What a great job very informative 👏

best content so well explained Thank you !!

Very informative video. Thank you!

another great video , thank you im definatly building one of those metal breaks, thinking about it , trying to figure out how to make the tubes removable to increase or decrease size tubing for different projects , thanks again

Really nice explanations….top work..

Another awesome instructional video.

Awesome video! Thank you!!

Thank you.very clear great lesson

Great video!! Very interesting.

Great information! Thanks!!!

Thank you for the mini lesson!

Very detailed great stuff

Excellent video. So many knowledge bombs I lost count.

My old man would say more thinking equals less welding.Your spot on.

Top tier video!

Excellent tutorial.......

great video

I worked at a high end shop called Street Works here in Wisconsin and a guy with way more talent then me made complete rear quarters for a 67 Buick skylark from flat sheet metal. With very minimal body filler when done

Love it

Great video on patch panels. That Winfield anvil is the best. I'm planning on making one soon. I'm low budget and don't have the sophisticated equipment to work with. My question is, would it be possible to weld another size pipe to the lower pipes on the anvil (on the 3" and 1") and bend downward on the newly added pipes?

Have you experimented with copper backers. Minimize heat affected zone and weld support. Thanks for putting out excellent vids. 👍

Thank you!

Hi, Unrelated to the video question. In a number of you videos you talk about how bad sand blasting is for a car and messes all the panels up. Have you tride the new laser paint and rust removal systems? From what I've there are two clases of laser rust/paint removers; continious lasers and pulsed lasers. For removing paint and rust I've heard that the pulsed lasers are better as they put less energy/heat into the panel and note pulsed lasers for rust and paint removal are normally between 100W to 300W. The continuos lasers are 1000W and up. They seem to do a nice job removing heavy rust and paint but the parts are too hot to touch after the laser has been used. The nice thing with the continious laser is you can weld and cut with them. There are always trade offs.

Thanks for the video a question could you carry the sharpie line onto the anvil to ensure that you are placing the panel in the same position???

Can you recommend a good 2 stage air compressor that can keep up with air sanders and sandblasting? Thank you

One thing i learned long ago from Kerry Pinkerton and Dutch Comstock is shape versus surface area

Does a perfect patch panel like you have made need to be covered with fiberglass filler? Does the patch change in the sun and that is why it’s recommended to cover it? Thank you for your time

Hi can you tell me what brand and model of lights you have in your shop and if your happy with them. They look very nice and bright on camera

You are very thorough and knowledgeable. I learn a lot from your videos.But It's hard for me to justify spending the time it takes to hammer dolly and get that "mirror" your talking about, if the car is going to be covered in filler from headlights to taillights anyway. Is it worth hours of metal finish work just to have .080 thickness of filler instead of .180 thickness? Am I missing something?

WoW

@SYLVESTER CUSTOMS they're called Rare Earth Magnets or Neodymium Magnets.

Someone needs to have Bad Chad watch this.

Next shop tool fab project

If the medium tube is 3", the large tube sure looks like it is a 6". Your numbers of the size tube do not seem to match the pictures of the anvil. It makes me wonder if you are labeling the sizes incorrectly. Steel is expensive today and to build one from scratch with new material is not a twenty dollar project. Could you please verify the sizes and state whether it is pipe or tube? You used schedule 40 as a thickness and that references pipe and with pipe it is measured I.D. and that would be a different radius. I am confused completely. I would like to build one but not using 1", 3" and 4" as claimed. It seems not large enough for a large crown area and would require more shifting the metal to get a crown which can make for more errors to correct in my confused mind. I watch several people that do body work and use the pipe anvil to make curves and even homemade brakes. Fitzee comes to mind immediately. He is not a body builder such as Wray Schelin and his "cut&butt'" method it sound. I like your work as well and try to learn so that when I tackle my project, I will be better informed as to how to fix rust areas and make patches and not look like patches on a fuselage in a combat area. I was an airframe repairman in the Air Force.

Very time consuming if you want it right ! You must not rush your work if you want a next to perfect finish !

Now of course you will be using a polyester type primer filler over the whole thing snd then block the heck out of it.

Why u don't show your gun setting before spray anything.