I think a motorized rack and pinion would be wonderful, but this seemed a lot harder. However, I would love to have a table that rises and falls with a push of the button, and remains flawlessly centered under the quill at all times. The machinists have such devices, but they paid more for them than I did.

I’ve been thinking about this for a while now. There’s a video somewhere that shows a similar solution. Good idea.

I bought mine from Trinity Innovations in Texas. It is expensive, and I am not sure it is exactly the same product that is being sold in Europe. I think you might be just as well off staining regular tan MDF with black oil stain.

@@PatrickSullivan I might actually try that just out of curiosity.

I use CorelDraw, a general purpose drawing program. No 3D, no animations, no typical CAD features. I bought it 20 years ago or more for entirely different purposes, and use it here just because I am so familiar with it. If you are looking for a program exclusively for shop design, I suspect there are several that would do more than mine.

@@PatrickSullivan Thank you for the response - I'm familiar with some other drafting tools through my career, but many of them are overkill for what I need mostly in the shop. I'll check out CorelDraw

My daughter suggested a similar concept after she saw the video. I like the idea. I did not know that you could buy a 9/16" coupling, and failed to think of the idea of installing a support bearing in the table itself to keep the extension from wobbling and bending. This would be an especially attractive solution if you do work that requires a really big table, where reaching under the table is awkward.

@@PatrickSullivan Well, to be fair, I do like the fact that your wheel is relatively recessed. My system is pretty robust but in my "shop" (overcrowded garage) every tool is on wheels and I regularly roll the drill press around and have to be careful the extended crank doesn't catch on anything. A little annoying but works for me. And I should have been more clear on the "coupler." I used a 9/16 coupling nut from the home center and drilled out the threads (really easy) to clear the rod, then drilled and tapped for set screws on one of the flats of the coupling nut. Roughly judging from the images in your video, my table is about the same size as yours. I also recently discovered (and have become obsessed with) the MatchFit system as it appears you used on your table. When I built mine I used T-track, but love the idea of dovetail slots. With a 3D printer and embedded 10-32 machine nuts I've been able to make some really clever modified" versions of the MatchFit track hardware. Would love to have put this in my table.

Woodsmith

@B.L.A. The hell there isn't. You think it's magic?

@@8BitLife69 The end products would not be comparable in quality

@@howycwap Wrong.

@B.L.A. Where do you think the file comes from? The ETHER? A 3D printer has to be built, tuned, maintained. That magic too? It is better to be thought a fool, than to open your mouth, and remove all doubt. Keep up the great work.

@@8BitLife69 Cheap PLA or ABS plastic is a lower quality material than Mahogany, there is no valid argument against that

Why do you feel it necessary to be unpleasant and xenophobic? The moto “if you’ve got nothing nice to say, say nothing” is a good one to live by. Take a chill pill, along with a dram of your favourite tipple. You do you and let him do him!