Perfect

magnifique travail ...pour essayer d'en fabriquer un en ce moment , je connais la difficulté d'un travail aussi propre

Glass plates, both coated and uncoated, are available from a company in Europe called Zebra Plates. I had a good experience ordering coated glass plates for my 100 year old 5X7 camera from them. I think they will make custom sized plates for customers.

Wonderful engineering and craftsmanship but I do get very nervous watching your fingers close to moving saw blades. Beautiful wood and metals. We all need to protect our planet’s biodiversity, natural resources and environment.

Very cool project, thanks for sharing!

Great job that wheel looks good!

You must be an engineer if you are an American using metric in a woodshop?! 😮

Hi, Great video. Good graphics and a breakdown of your explanation of what should have taken place and what did not. Keep the videos coming…

Great video, Mr. Sullivan. For your next upgrade you might consider a inset waste disc. While routing circles and milling discs with precision are at the very boundary of my woodworking skills, it's truly a gratifying enhancement.

Great idea and great video. Any chance you would share the STL files for the retaining rings and switch box?

It's harder to get a clean surface on end grain though - you would have to shoot the end where as with side grain, you can simply plane it on the bench no problem.

Great work.

I 3d printed some biscuits. After printing I have drilled a couple holes in them for glue to have a tunnel through the biscuit. I understand that most pva glue will not stick to 3d printed material. I basically use biscuits for alignment vs. Strength. The festool domino is just a overpriced idea . I am sure they have their own place but I am going to say that for 90 percent of the joints I build strength more than what the glue provides is a non issue. Festool has a place in some shops but not in mine.

Hi - Thanks for your video and especially for the links. I have mine up and running - I just need to decide on the top layers. I made my own coupler out of brass on the metal lathe and just mounted the motor to the bottom of the table with a block that fits around the motor and bolts to the bottom plywood. I used over-sized holes to allow for adjust-ability. Thanks!

Great idea!

Wow, this is just what I need for my drill press! I have the same situation, where the crank handle interferes with the table. This is the perfect solution! Thanks Patrick!

Interesting. I have all of the equipment for a lift. Been sitting in a pile for a year. Have a lovely new PM press now and this is motivating me.

I will be making a motorized Drill Press Table myself in an upcoming video on my own channel. Good work Patrick! As always your videos are well thought out and informative!

No more tilt for angled holes?

Can you turn on the press and use the motor to lift the workpiece INTO the spinning bit? That'd be handy as hell in certain situations. Example: my radial press only has about 6" of vertical travel. I have a few 24" bits. If I need a hole 10" deep, I have to bore the 6, then crank the press up so the bit almost bottoms out, then restart the press and finish her off. THEN crank her back OFF again. I'd love to be able to just press a switch and raise it straight through. Even if I had to pause and jiggle the handle a bit to clear chips. I may build this one myself! Thanks for sharing!

I want one! Useful information presented in a clear and understandable manner. Educational and enjoyable, what more could we want?! Thanks Patrick.

I was just thinking about doing this to my drill press, and I basically had the same design in my head. Thank you for confirming my design should work!

Thank you for one of the most educational woodworking videos in existence. You filled in so much of my understanding of gluing and did it in such a concise and clear method. Thank you again.

I've been following your builds since I found your small cutting tool series which I followed to make a carving knife for an old friend. I really love the clarity with which you explain your process, both in word and image/video - not to mention the extremely high quality of both design and implementation of your builds. I have very little expendable income but I do have a solid collection of tools and it's growing thanks to the inspiration you have given me to make my own. So, thank you for sharing your work, I truly appreciate it.

Your stuff is so ingenious and well made, Patrick. I just love it. Thanks for sharing!

Very good result.

Great video! Your clear progression through the steps makes this feel really accessible. I think I'll give it a go! Would you consider making your 3D print files available? Thank you for another wonderful build!

Thank you, another wonderful video, well done Patrick

Nice video. How about hanging something off the back with some weight to cancel out some of the bind. Also, I just subscribed.

I very much enjoyed watching this. Thank you sir.

If you don't lock the table, doesn't it float left & right? Is that an acceptable compromise?

Very cool. I used a variable stepper motor so i can change the speed with the pot. Idk if it really matters. I always use the same speed and its about the same as yours.

Wow. I had no idea I needed something like this. Thank you.

Nice! Thanks!

Nicely done. I have the same drill press and added my own “power feed” to the table. I used a motor out of an old 18v cordless drill and used the existing trigger and forward/reverse switch to control the table movement. My solution for mounting the motor was 2 holes drilled and tapped on the square portion of the collar with a bracket extending from there that the motor mounts to. A 3D printed enclosure to mount the switches and cover the motor/bracket/wiring to clean it all up. I played around with a single small gas shock mounted under the table to help with the added weight of a machine vise when running the table back up but found the motor had enough torque and it wasn’t needed. I will have to steal your idea for the rack retaining rings as I’ve just been pushing it back in place when it starts to move. You just provided me with the last piece of the puzzle. Glad this video popped up on my feed!

Good to see new material from you sir.

And then next video Patrick will add movement in the other two axis and turn the thing into a wood milling machine :O

A lot of great solutions to a pain in the butt problem on the drill press I like your fence to I have an old gauge I might follow suit and see if it works for me. Thanks for posting

I'd love to see how you dealt with the hole for the center of the table. In the video, it appears as though you did nothing for a waste insert, or through holes.

Another one worthy of appearing on your channel. Always quality stuff!

Another outstanding contribution to humanity - well, the DIY part of it anyway. The plastic collar rings to prevent the worm gear from moving, alone, is worth the watch. Many thanks!

Awesome job! BTW, Dewalt should WANT to be your sponsor!

Are you going to make a video about vacuum attachment for the router? It looks very cool and handy. I hate the original one :(

"Very little profanity required"?? Well, where's the fun in *_that?_* :).

Yeah, I've wanted that for a long time. Well done.

Brilliant work, Patrick! 😃 The issue with different voltages is that the motor's torque also changes. But a better option would be to always use 40v, for example, and a PWM circuit. Then you can adjust the speed as necessary, without any issues. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

What software do you use to create your boxes / models for the 3D printer?

Very little profanity was required! 😂 thanks for sharing. Very interesting way to go about this!

I also want to do this. Thanks for making this video. The CAD you show looks familiar. By chance did you use Onshape for this?

I added a motorcycle jack to my drill press table. you can use a drill/impact driver with a socket on it to actuate it up and down.