Rear Main Engine Seal Replacement Please note that I did not drill through the block when doing this as many have commented on. That hole is the oil return hole and it is much larger than the drill bit I used.
Пікірлер: 346
@failingdisciple9382 жыл бұрын
You made it look easy! Except on my car there’s a transmission in the way.
@andybilakshow260 Жыл бұрын
who knew🤣🤣
@Ogbobbybrill Жыл бұрын
😂
@jpmartin6191 Жыл бұрын
lol
@gabrielgomez6898 Жыл бұрын
Thats the case on every car genius😂
@polymetric261411 ай бұрын
ah see the one in this video is one of those fancy new transmissionless cars, it wirelessly transmits torque to the wheels
@StewartHorsemanship Жыл бұрын
Great advice! You saved me a lot of money for a "special tool". To tap a seal in, I use a piece of hardwood and set it on the rim of the seal.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Yes, that works well to install the seal.
@stephen69453 жыл бұрын
Another tip for hammering the seal in would be to place the old seal on top and hammer as a buffer to prevent damaging the new seal.
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Worth a try. Sometimes they are damaged or they may not be solid enough. I like the idea and I will give it a try the next rear main seal I replace.
@ken26332 жыл бұрын
Or use a Nylon hammer
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Another good idea however a nylon hammer may not have enough impact force to drive the seal in.
@danielweeks3723 Жыл бұрын
Good idea
@dangda-ww7de Жыл бұрын
@@danielweeks3723 when getting the seal out never screw it at the bottom always do it on top so if leak it wont leak up there.
@antman7431Ай бұрын
Thank you, yours is the first video I've seen out of many that mentions to clean the surface prior to installing the new seal
@DrivelineMasterАй бұрын
Very surprising.
@mondecruel18662 жыл бұрын
works really well i was struggling with a screwdriver, did exactly the same thing except for the leaverage i put the flat tip of the screwdriver on the crankshaft as my housing is aluminuim. Didnt leave any scratch awesome tip!
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
I'm glad this worked for you.
@Gbm9773 жыл бұрын
Me and my dad switch out turns working on my truck and this really help me, thx
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Glad I could help.
@willriseabove68583 жыл бұрын
was feeling worried about this lol but you made it simple. I just bought a engine out of 1990 bronco and it's got a valve cover leak, rear main seal leak and a couple of sketchy gaskets that since its out I figured I'd replace. thanks for the video this was the only one really bugging me as I've never done a rear main lol
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
I'm glad the video was helpful to you.
@Purosanluispotosi2 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster I have a ford bronco 1987 4.9l do I have to take off that transmission or we’re are located that rear main seal
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Yes, the transmission will have to be removed to gain access to the rear main seal.
@Purosanluispotosi2 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster ok thank you very much
@andybilakshow260 Жыл бұрын
rear mains are easy, getting the tranny out of the way is where the fun begins.
@jimmy329 Жыл бұрын
I’m attempting to do the same thing as we speak . Thanks for the video
@topherl14463 жыл бұрын
Clean with brake clean before Never After he instantaneously shortened the life of his new seal
@LSXperts723 жыл бұрын
It won’t affect it but don’t throw it straight at it either
@MotorScotti2 жыл бұрын
Agree
@eddiepadilla10782 жыл бұрын
Lol I remember a mechanic bring in a part for the 3rd time and trying to blame the stock. I asked him a few questions one was if he used brake cleaner to which he replied yes. I told him to never use that for gasket seal prep and to use starter fluid. Told him I'll warranty the part one last time but I won't again since he now knows the proper way to clean mating surfaces--never saw him again for that part.
@danp7463 Жыл бұрын
The screw method is how I've always removed main seals. I use a claw hammer and use the crank as a fulcrum. Presto mágico.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Perfect except a claw hammer is more often found in a carpenters tool box than a professional technicians tool box but if you have one around it will work great.
@user-dy4kt5bh9f4 ай бұрын
Use a shaft repair sleeve if there is a wear grove in the crankshaft.
@DrivelineMaster4 ай бұрын
if one is available and often these are kits with an oversize inside diameter seal. Another trick is to install the seal a little farther into the housing basically repositioning the location of the seal sealing surface on the crankshaft surface.
@edwinmalicdem84402 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the informative share. It seems driving a self-tapping metal screw manually with a philip screw driver would provide a better control in avoiding drilling into parts other than the seal.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Only if you can keep the self tapping screw from walking. It's not very hard to stop drilling once you have drilled through the metal part of the seal.
@syrthdr09sybr342 жыл бұрын
Using self-tapping screws here sound like a terrible idea to be honest. But hey if it works for you.
@christinaphillips59332 жыл бұрын
Thank you l just had my Head gasket done land the oil pan gasket now l been the main seal replace in a 97 Honda CR-V
@MoosenOggen43432 жыл бұрын
I'm new to this, but isn't it a bad idea to use brake clean on a rubber seal? I've been told time and time again by my foreman that that ruins seals
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
I have never had a problem but if you look closely I never put the brake clean directly on the seal. I clean the surfaces on the crankshaft, block and the outer metal portion of the metal clad seal. I also don't soak the seal in brake clean I only wipe off the oil and dirt. Seals are also not straight rubber but instead a specific composition designed for specific applications and lubricants. So with 40 years in the automotive industry using one form of brake clean or another to de-grease seals and sealing surfaces I have never had a comeback cause by the use of de-greaser or brake clean being use to clean a sealing surface. Before clicking send on this message I decided to do a little research. I used google to search for: "does brake cleaner damage rubber seals" and found a number of articles that support that brake clean does not harm rubber in fact it is formulated not to. Think about it, brake clean is designed to be used on all sort of brake stuff and those often contain rubber like caliper and wheel cylinder dust boots. Not sure where your foreman got his/her/they information but you may want to point your foreman to the many articles that can be found on a search engine stating that brake clean does not harm rubber. Good luck.
@dattechguy19232 жыл бұрын
Quick question when you did this seal replacement did you just take out the transmission or did you drop the whole assembly (engine and transmission)? I’m doing one tomorrow on a 2010 equinox with a 3.0 and would appreciate some pointers/tricks. Thank you!
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Sorry for the late reply. I only removed the transmission and left the engine in the vehicle.
@dattechguy19232 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster no worries I actually ended up doing that thank you so much!
@malp62803 жыл бұрын
doesn't lithium grease eat away at rubber? I thought you'd need the appropriate red grease (made for rubber seals) & then for fitting the seal using some silicone spray would aid sliding the seal into place also isn't brake cleaner also aggressive towards rubber seals?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
30+ years of using white lithium grease on oil seals. It does not eat the seals. Seals are often a combination of rubber and nitrile base products. They are not 100% rubber. Red grease can be lithium based just as white grease is so the color doesn't really matter. Silicon spray will work but it won't prevent the garter spring from popping out from the impact of the hammer during installation. This is one of the main reasons for the grease. You don't have to use white lithium just as long as you use some type of grease so the spring doesn't pop out and the seal is lubricated.
@jebus9142 жыл бұрын
The screw/plier is a good method for really tight seals. The seal puller tool works well for worn and loose seals. Be careful not to scratch the shaft using it though. Aim the hook between the lip of the seal and the internal spring and use that to lift the seal out. The guy in the video does it the incorrect way.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
The guy in the video was me and I double checked the video time stamp 2:57 and you can see I do place the tool so the hook is facing the spring. The tool comes with no instructions manual and this is the only way it can be used. Yes, caution needs to be used not to scratch the crankshaft. I have used this tool wit success with as you noted seals that are not in too tight. I have had better luck with camshaft seals and front crankshaft seals but not so much with rear main seals. I have broken several tool tips and have a supply of spare tips. There really is no other way to use this tool.
@richsackett34235 жыл бұрын
The screw trick! Thank you. Mine now.
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
Yea, it works great. You just have to be careful not to nick the side of the housing.
@ElkoCowboy88810 ай бұрын
I bought some threaded accessories from OTC that replace the screw on Vise grips and allow me to attach them to a slide hammer to pop it out. Also bought some hard white plastic round shafts 12 inches long off Ebay that I can hammer on that won't damage seal or crank.
@foxwood673 жыл бұрын
Did you accidentally screw through the seal and make a hole in the back support ?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
No, that has been mentioned before. That is a lubrication drain back hole designed into the housing. It was just luck that I drilled in the same location.
@tspecht6102 жыл бұрын
He drilled right through the block. You can check out other videos and there is no hole there on any of the other 4.0 rear main replacement videos
@sonnywinstead9977 Жыл бұрын
Use micro sleeve( NS331) to put on before new seal. Use A tool, NST331 to put the micro sleeve in AND to tap the new seal in flush. This is for Ford 289, 302 after 1982 I believe. The one piece seal
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
I had to look this up. The micro sleeve is designed to repair the surface of the crankshaft if it is damaged. It is not needed for most crankshaft seal replacements. It looks pretty cool if your crank sealing surface is damaged this looks like a great way to save the crank.
@stevejanejamesjassteph59033 жыл бұрын
I cant believe you are hammering the seal into place! Use the old seal like the previous guy said
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Any yet is works if done correctly so believe it. I have been installing metal clad seals for all applicatios for 40 years with a hammer and if it's done correctly with care it works just fine. An old seal or a large piece of pipe also works.
@judithathey93172 жыл бұрын
yeah that does not work on these 4.0 motors, best way to insure u only have do it once is to get a factory 2 part seal with metal sleeve and get the install tool. Had done many seals this way, but this DOES NOT work on these motors. U will be doing it over if do it like this!!! GOOD LUCK!!
@cochiselove952 ай бұрын
Thankyou for the video, i am doing this job in a few weeks, can someone recommend the best tips to remove the transmission from engine, with only ramps and on the ground! Im trying to save money by going to the mechanic and learn it myself.
@DrivelineMaster2 ай бұрын
See if you can rent a floor jack that has a transmission adapter. They make these and they can be very helpful when doing this job on the ground. Do a internet search and you will see what I'm talking about.
@cochiselove952 ай бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster okay I'll look into that n look it up. Thankyou for the reply back n information
@thorthunder3227 Жыл бұрын
I was told that a NAK seal for my Z145 massey ferguson 135 has the spring that goes to the outside on the crank, not inside. You show the seal with the spring on the inside and that fella to me that if the spring came off that it would not damage the inner part but shed it to the outside of the crank, Does this make sense to you?
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Unless you are directed to install a seal in a specific direction or to not lubricate the seal which is possible in some unique cases. For the most part all metal clad seals such as this rear main seal are always installed this way. The lips on the seals are designed to hold the oil in and if you flip the seal around it would leak.
@davidgruen7423 Жыл бұрын
I saw a video of a guy using the fork end of a regular carpenter hammer, worked really well.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Except carpenter hammers are not a common tool in an auto repair facility so I used what I had.
@camronbtc73074 жыл бұрын
Does this work on a 1996 Chevy 1500 with a 5.0? And any need to drop oil pain or bottom half of engine block to change the gaskets around the crank? Or just replacing that seal will work?
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
It should but I'm not 100% certain.
@EppingForest3045 ай бұрын
I am planning on using Red Rubber Grease as the seal lubricant as I know it doesn’t cause rubber to swell or degrade, (instead of white lithium).
@DrivelineMaster5 ай бұрын
That should be fine. Two reasons for lubricating the seal. 1) is for the lip surface so it slides easily and is not damaged during the installation. 2) behind the seal on the guarder spring. The grease helps to prevent the spring from popping out when the seal is installed with a hammer. There are some specialized rear main seals that specifically tell you not to lubricate them. These seals will come with those instructions in the package.
@karenglanfield-fn4oz Жыл бұрын
How did you remove the gearbox from 2014 tata xenon 4x4? The throw out bearing appears to be stuck.
@s.s.chapter22196 ай бұрын
Liquid wrench Air tools And elbow grease gets any bolt off... trust me I get them off E-350 turbo stroke diesel sometimes you gotta add a pry bar to your wrench to get the proper leverage
@aerialrescuesolutions3277 Жыл бұрын
Where can I get one of the trans seal lip installer tools you use here? It looks like a feeler gauge with a handle. I have been searching and I can not find the tool you are using here? Thank you, Jim H.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
The only place I could find one like this is at WIT www.wittrans.com I downloaded the auto trans catalog and on page 1428 for tools. You can call them at 1-800-940-0197. There is no tool number just a description. Lib Seal Tool. They sometimes give them away at trade shows. I'm sure that is where I got mine.
@ahmedlakreder77788 ай бұрын
hello!I found that there are lines on the sealant on the crankshaft, can they be smoothed with sandpaper? Because I changed the seal, but the oil is still leaking
@DrivelineMaster8 ай бұрын
Really old and hard seals can cause grooves in the metal surface. Yes you can try to remove them with fine emery paper. Nothing coarser than 320 and finish with 400 and or 600. You can also try installing the seal in a slightly different position. Instead of flush with the housing try insetting it if you can by 1/6" or 3/32" so the seal will ride on the crankshaft in a different position.
@ahmedlakreder77788 ай бұрын
thank you very much! I was hopeless because some mechanics advised me to change the crankshaft
@kurtsivak49434 жыл бұрын
Use a small block of wood to and a hammer to hit the seal
@mohammednifras99943 жыл бұрын
That one rubber hammer bro
@veggiepowered2 жыл бұрын
Iam Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos
@tvolz402 ай бұрын
Pretty sure ypu wanna seal all sides witht the smae oil thats gonna go in the motor. The white lithium is fine but i always believed used the same viscosity just like changing an oul filter
@DrivelineMaster2 ай бұрын
The reason for using grease instead of oil is because the thick grease helps to keep the grater spring from popping out during installation. Because the seal is being installed with a hammer or an impact device this can cause the grater (tension) spring to pop out of location. I have had this happen before and it means that I have to remove the seal to fix it. This often damages the new seal forcing the purchase of a second new seal. When I'm working on something off the vehicle and I can install a seal with a press (provides constant pressure and not hammering impact pressure) I normally use the same lubricant of what ever it is I'm working on. 45 years of using grease and specifically white grease without any known failures or come backs. I think it is save to use white grease in this application.
@ken2633 Жыл бұрын
do you need to drain the oil from crankcase before removing the rear main seal?
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
No. The level of the oil is lower than the crank and seal.
@jacquelineperry58735 жыл бұрын
Charged 3100 to replace a rear seal that the dealers say was my car issue but weeks later oil light came on ruining motor they misdiagnosed only had a bad pcv hose and valve.
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
I can not speak to your specific circumstance but I would like to take a moment to explain something. The PCV valve and hose stand for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Obviously the dealer missed this problem and this was most likely the root cause. If the crankcase is not properly ventilated pressure will build up in the crankcase and cause all kinds of seals and gaskets to leak. So it is possible the rear main seal was leaking but what is obvious is the PCV system was not doing it's job and if the seal was leaking the failure of that seal was most likely cause be the bad PCV system. BTW if you are saying your were charged $3,100.00 to replace a rear main seal this sounds grossly expensive for almost any vehicle. For many cars the oil light comes on way too late. Sometimes the engines only have 1 quart or less before the light comes on. Driving the vehicle for even a few minutes after the light comes on can cause catastrophic failure. For anyone reading this, if your oil light comes on, pull over immediately and call for a tow truck or park the vehicle until you can return with at least 5 quarts or motor oil. I'm sorry your dealer obviously did you a poor service.
@phillipsmith18475 жыл бұрын
Oh, man. Bad deal. I can't trust them anymore either after the 'professionals' ruined my transmission. I feel ya!
@ozzstars_cars5 жыл бұрын
Uhmm I think you drilled through the housing.. ut oh
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
Nope. I only drilled through the metal part of the seal. It just so happens that there was a hole right behind where I drilled. That hole is supposed to be there and it was much larger than the drill I used.
@CCMCJONESEK3 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster but that was just luck right? Or you knew exactly where that hole was?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
That was indeed just luck but I knew how far the drill should go in and how much resistance I should meet. It's not hard to tell when you have drilled through the thin metal housing of the seal and when to stop drilling.
@vwbob19532 жыл бұрын
They make a little slide hammer that uses a small sheet metal screw.Drill hole then screw in and slide hammer out.Easy peasy
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Yep, but it too doesn't always work. That tool was designed for dent repair on body work.
@Pakistanijugars Жыл бұрын
You have made a hole into the aluminium body ???? By drill is that fine ????
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Please read the comments. So many people have thought that I drilled through the housing that I put this in the comments. I did not drill through the housing. If you watch it would have taken much more drilling and you would have seen aluminum metal shavings from the drill. It just so happened that I picked a spot to drill where the oil return hole existed so it looked like I could have drilled into the housing. Also note that the hole in the housing is larger than the drill I used.
@noone58462 жыл бұрын
I use flat 1-1.5 inch thin strap of soft metal eg; brass and easy slide under the seal. Then small flat screwdriver will do the job , easy and not damaging any surface.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
I have something that is called "Shim in a can" which is a roll of thin brass or steel that is 0.004" thick. This can work to protect the seal.
@noone58462 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster Good staff, also if seal is as large, just place in domestic freezer over few hrs, works wanders.
@shermanbob1004 жыл бұрын
Is this pretty much the same method you would use for replacing a front crankshaft seal? The same part comes up when I look for a rear main / front crankshaft seal, but I'm doing both here anyway, as well as a new intake manifold runner control valve on a 2005 Ford Focus Zx4 SES (2.0 / manual).
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
Yes, you could use this method for a front crank seal however this is more challenging because the seal is much smaller. You may need smaller screws. Additionally, often the crankshaft extends out from the seal creating access limitations. BTW.... This can also be used for Camshaft seals as well. The Lisle seal puller tool I show in this video works fairly well for front crank seals and camshaft seals and the cost is reasonable. Lisle tool # 58430 $14.00 on amazon.
@shermanbob1004 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster Is the rear main on the driver side behind the flywheel? I haven't gotten to it yet with the colder weather, but it's looking to warm up a little this coming week. I'm going to be replacing the rear main, crankshaft seal, cam seals, and of course the valve cover gasket. Also, are there any others I should replace while I have the car taken apart that could lead to leaking oil?
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
Yes the rear main is behind the flywheel and the transmission has to be removed. You did also say the front crank seal correct? If the engine is out of the vehicle I would put a new oil pan gasket on as well. If not, the oil pan gasket can be quite difficult on some vehicles while the engine is still in the vehicle. I'm not familiar how hard it is on a ford focus. I would also check and or replace the PCV valve because this valve directly relates to crankcase pressure and if its not flowing correctly it will cause excessive crankcase pressures and blow out your seals again.
@oggy4418 Жыл бұрын
Isn't the whole seal supposed to be soked in oil for the protection and easy instalation? I don't think it is a good idea to push it in with that outer edge completely dry.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Oh my gosh. The outer edge absolutely needs to be completely dry otherwise the seal will pop out on you. The outer edge is a static seal which means there are no moving parts. You would not soak a valve cover or oil pan gasket in oil before installing it. The same goes for metal clad seals like this crank seal or a camshaft seal or an axle seal. It's ultra critical that the outer edge and static seal is as clean and free of oil and grease to ensure a good seal and to ensure that it fits tight and doesn't pop out.
@oggy4418 Жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster Couple years of experience here never had a problem so far. The oil is wipe away clean during instalation process.
@oggy4418 Жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster PTFE seal is a dofferen story though...
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
44 years of experience here and I'm telling you, I think you have been lucky that you have not had a come back at least not one you know about. The oil is not completely wiped away and there will still be a thin film on the seal. Even it if was completely wiped away I would then ask what was the purpose of using the oil at all if it's just going to be wiped away upon installation? You wouldn't oil up a valve cover or oil pan gasket before you install it. You want clean and dry for the best possible seal. Obviously you can keep doing it your way but I advise against it and I would suggest that you rethink your process.
@oggy4418 Жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster Holly smoke 44 years of experience! I will rethink may procedure then. Thank you master 🙏🙏🙏🙏
@tomas38614 жыл бұрын
If there is an installation cup with the seal (seal with housing) should i grease the crankshaft ?
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
Yes in most cases you should. There are some rear main seals that come with instructions that say not to lubricate. If that is the case follow the instructions and don't lubricate.
@mikesmith9781 Жыл бұрын
The average person would not know where the drain hole is behind the seal. How did you know the hole was in that position? If you would have snapped the drill in the hole that could be expensive
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Valid points however I didn't even know that hole was there when I started. So it's not expected knowledge even from a seasoned professional. It would be almost impossible to snap the drill bit. The metal on the seal is only about 0.015" thick. Once the hole is through the seal there is no resistance and it's clear you can stop drilling and remove the drill. Also my videos are designed to be slightly above the average person with zero experience in the use of tools and basic mechanic skills. They are designed for inspiring mechanics and home mechanics with some experience and understanding of mechanics and the use of tools. I like to educate as well as show how to do some jobs or tasks so others can learn from me.
@steviwar67002 жыл бұрын
So you drilled the hole all way through the seal and engine ?
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Oh how I wish my viewers would sometimes read the description. I got so many comments about this I put that answer in the description. That hole is an oil drain back hole and it was already there. Look carefully, the size of my drill and the drain back hole are obviously different. Plus it would have taken a whole lot more drilling to go through that block that it did to go through the seal. It just happened that I drilled right where that hole was. I wish I hadn't so viewers wouldn't think that I drilled into the block.
@tomayrscotland6890 Жыл бұрын
Tapping the seal in I use a hard wood block?.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
This too works well
@hashishsenju20154 жыл бұрын
Hi what happens if the seal is not flush with the housing? I pushed my Honda j series engines RMS about quarter inch deeper into the groove...is that ok?
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
1/4" of an inch is a lot but it might still be OK. I'm a bit surprised the seal cavity was that deep.
@hashishsenju20154 жыл бұрын
DrivelineMaster I might be exaggerating as I didn’t measure. More like 1/8 I think. Just inside the lip that curves outward.
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
1/8" is not a problem. You should be just fine.
@armondhammer9 Жыл бұрын
why wouldn't you put the screw in the top so the oil doesn't drip out?
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
I put the screw where it was easiest. I really doesn't matter there is very little oil trapped in the seal and as soon as the seal is pulled out what ever oil is in there comes out anyway. it's so little it's not an issue.
@tubularguynine3 жыл бұрын
Will a 1-piece rear main seal like that, for a '83 - '96 351 Windsor fit a '79 351 Windsor in a cougar XR-7, or does the '79 use just the 2-piece?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
I'm sorry I do not know that answer.
@Ricopolico Жыл бұрын
Be cool with that drill near the crank seal surface and the seal housing!
@jonwcs58424 жыл бұрын
94.5 Powerstroke, 2nd clutch going out at 344k miles & its also seeping from that seal. Thanks for the video
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
That is pretty awesome.
@lucasellyson68724 жыл бұрын
Will this make my moped go 180 miles per hour after I do this?
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
I'm sorry but this has a 149 MPH enhancement limit.
@Pats-Garage3 жыл бұрын
This video probably just save my ass
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Glad to hear.
@tommyjames17263 жыл бұрын
And most of all. All the necessary tools to remove the complete transmission....
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Yes of course. This would be a much longer video if I included that part of the job.
@bobbyjones59983 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster uy
@captainmidnight7012 Жыл бұрын
Try using a hockey puck , over the seal when taping it in .
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Absolutely, we all have hockey pucks around the shop.
@Sniperssx Жыл бұрын
In process of taken trans out shell remove any wire cable pip and flywheels process reinstall any special methed
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Just note that there are a few rear main seal designs that you can do this way. With those the trans, flywheel and oil pan have to be removed. If you give me the year, make and model I can look that up for you as long as it's a model sold in the United States.
@Sniperssx Жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster jeep wrangler 2012
@Sniperssx Жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster I guess trans flywheel need to be out
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Yes, the trans and flywheel have to be removed. Based on a 2012 Jeep with a 3.6L engine and the information I have it looks like the technique I show in the video with using the screw to pull the seal out will indeed work. The service manual says to remove the seal housing but it is unnecessary work if you follow my instructions. One note, If you can find something large and round with a hole in the middle to install the new seal it's better than just hitting it with a hammer like I did. It can be done my way as long as your good with a hammer and careful.
@acolston61154 жыл бұрын
Wow. good one thank's
@paultownsend-booth84653 жыл бұрын
8
@chiefbubba25815 жыл бұрын
So they go bad when you see oil leaking from the seal
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
Yes, there will be signs of oil and dirt collected to the oil around the seal. This fix will not impact the performance of the engine but it will keep the oil in the engine so you don't run out and damage the engine or leak on your driveway.
@chiefbubba25815 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster i have to get mines done asap that and the engine oil pan gasket and motor mounts
@Nikkk69693 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this. Is it ok to use oil instead of grease between the crank and the seal?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Yes you can use oil. It is important to use a grease on the back side of the seal where the spring is. The grease here will help to keep the spring from popping out from the impact of the hammer. This can happen if grease is not used and if this happens the seal will leak. This is true for all seals of this design. If the seal is being installed with a press or something other than a hammer grease is not needed and oil will do just fine. The grease does not have to be white grease but that is what I have been using for many years with zero problems.
@Nikkk69693 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster thanks for the quick comment! Turns out I did have white grease so I used that, and I wished my old seal would’ve came out as easy as in the video. Turns out the inside was lined with steel. I got it and got my new one in, but I’m really stressing over the fact if it sealed properly or not. I can’t imagine putting everything back in and up in my Ranger and having a big leak. The outside has little visible damage from hitting it in, and I’m not sure if there’s such thing as hitting the seal in too far… stupid I know… hopefully I didn’t mess up I uploaded a short video of my seal in there and it would be great if you would take a look and get back to me if it’ll pass off or not! (It’s pretty tight in there btw)
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Can you send me a link to your video? or even some snap shots. I will look at them and give you my feedback. Technically the best way to install that seal that minimizes any chance of damage would be to have a piece of pipe the the proper inside and outside diameters and hit on the pipe instead of the seal. It's just too difficult to have that many sizes around the shop. PVC will also work. It's OK if the seal is driven in just a little but deeper than being flush but it should not be more than 1/16" below the surface. Better to replace the seal a second time now if it's not right than to have to take the trans out again. Sometimes it's possible to run the engine before putting the trans back in to check for a leak if you have a manual transmission. Not so much with an automatic because it needs the weight of the torque converter to act as a flywheel.
@Nikkk69693 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster makes sense. My seal is chamfered inwards so it was really hard to do that without making contact on the crank and around it. It’s definitely a little more than 1/16 of the way in but like I said it’s very tight and I shined my light around the lip and it looks like it’s very well sealed. And yes I agree it might be worth it to put the flywheel and starter back up to letr run for a few but I’m waiting on some flywheel bolts so I can’t really do that atm. Here is my video, hopefully I caught the right angles for how short it is: m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iduYiph83ZOam2g.html
@Nikkk69693 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster actually, that video was only half for some reason. This is the better one: m.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqpincWVtafPpYU.html
@amireamir95612 жыл бұрын
Thank you frand
@AlbertoDiaz-ut3gh10 ай бұрын
Good job
@Fordgroup00 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, helpful 👍
@wesleybanks74872 жыл бұрын
Looks like to me drilled a hole into the seal chamber!!! This may not make any difference but it makes no difference to me.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
It kind of does look like that but if you look carefully when the drill punctured the outer metal casing of the seal I stopped drilling. Then look at the hole behind where I drilled. It is larger than the bit I used. This is the oil return hole that is part of the engine design. I just happen to pick that spot to drill by sheer luck. Your not the only one who thought I drilled into the engine and caused damage.
@johnoneone24552 жыл бұрын
thank you
@sohailasghar84713 жыл бұрын
Is it easier to first remove engine to remove seal or do u remove first the gear box
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
This repair is done with the engine still in the vehicle and the transmission or gear box and clutch assembly removed. This technique is not needed if the engine has been removed and placed on an engine stand. If the engine has been removed it's most likely for more repairs than just a rear main engine seal.
@charlesstevenson51412 жыл бұрын
If you know what you're doing, this should only take 3-5 hours, 5 being if you run into any snags or have stubborn transmission bolts that are hard to break loose. Removing the engine does nothing but add a lot of unnecessary work a full day even two days worth of work depending on the engine (size and number of accessories that has to be unhooked) plus will cost more because you have to refill the cooling system. In my 97' GMC dually, I've done it in 2.5 hours start to finish. 6.5L V8 diesel with a 4L80E. No need to completely remove the transmission either. Just need to slide it back, let the bell housing end rest on the cross member and support the back with a jack stand. If you're not capable of handling a transmission by yourself in an inverted position I would highly recommend getting some help. I do mine by myself and that 4L80E is a bear of a transmission.
@noone58462 жыл бұрын
@@charlesstevenson5141 use hummer torque tool . 3/8 in and this will take even front crank pulley bolt, no s**t
@4wdaddict41 Жыл бұрын
What engine and vehicle is this on
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
I'm sorry, this was too long ago for me to remember. I should have noted that at that time but didn't.
@4395303 жыл бұрын
Will a rear main seal always leak a lot or does it start off small?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Rear main seals will start out small but the only way to catch them at this stage is during an inspection. if the transmission has been removed for a clutch or other work this is a good time to inspect the rear main seal. Signs of seepage indicate a replacement will prevent a larger more costly leak later. more often than not the small leak is not noticed because it's difficult to perform inspections. The leaks become larger and oil loss and dripage on the ground draw attention that something needs to be fixed. By this time it's a fairly large leak.
@DrFillyBlunt3 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster my car uses a quart every week. My trunk is full of oil containers. I noticed what appears to be old seepage around the valve cover. Will replacing it's gasket be a complete waste of time and money?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Oil consumption is either leaking externally or being burned internally or both. This needs to be figured out. Heavily leaking valve cover gaskets could be your total problem however I don't know the age of your truck and often older vehicles will leak from more than one location. Start by watching your tail pipe right after starting your engine after it has been sitting over night. Right after the engine starts rev it up an down a few times while watching the tailpipe for a white/blue smoke. The blue indicates the presents of oil being burned. If the blue smoke goes away after 5 - 10 minutes of running the oil is most likely entering the cylinder through the valve guide seals. If the blue smoke continues even when the engine is fully warmed up and puffs more when letting off the gas after revving up the engine this would indicate a worn engine cylinder and piston rings. Have someone follow you as you drive. Sometimes the blue smoke is more noticeable during driving. These are test the won't cost anything. Next look for external leaks. If you are leaking that much oil the underside of the engine is most likely an oily mess. Step 1, get the engine steam cleaned to clean off all the oil from every area of the engine. Next step, run the engine and look for oil leaks. Oil runs from high on the engine down so look for oil leaking from the highest location on your engine. There are kits where you can add florescent dye to the oil and use a black light with yellow glasses to locate new oil that is leaking out. You need to assess all the places where the oil is leaking out to determine if the repair cost are worth it for you to fix it. Even cheap oil these days is $4.00 to $5.00 a quart not to mention the damage that can occur to your engine if you run it low on oil. If you can't do this pay a qualified automotive technician to assess your oil consumption and provide you with a quote to fix all your leaks. The cost to fix might be more than the truck is worth however if the rest of the truck is in good condition, you know what you have. If you buy another used vehicle you could be purchasing a vehicle that will need expensive maintenance or repairs in the near future. You could buy a newer used truck or a new truck but ask yourself. are you going to spend $20,000.00 to $40,000 for a new truck to fix a $1,500 problem on a truck that is only worth $1000.00. Keep in mind I have no clue how old your truck is or what it is worth let alone how much it will cost to fix your truck. Those numbers are just examples of things to think about. I hope this helps.
@cesar25842 жыл бұрын
Would this be the same seal for a 3.7 Jeep commander? Have a leak by flex plate. 200k plus miles. By the way awesome video. New subscriber here
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Not all rear main seals are designed the same and I can't be certain if your jeep uses this design. Go to the parts store and look at the seal. If it looks similar than you are good to go. If the new seal comes pre-installed into an aluminum housing then this method will not work and you will have to remove the oil pan in addition to the transmission to replace seals designed like that.
@vhinovhino45782 жыл бұрын
What do call specifically that oil seal?
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
It's called the rear main engine oil seal. It could be called the rear crankshaft oil seal. This seal is of a group of seals that are referred to a metal clad type seals but not all rear main oil seals are of the metal clad design. I hope that is what you were asking.
@jiwbink Жыл бұрын
but I KNEW THAT THUS CLD B DONE W/O $100 TOOL RENTAL BS!! THX!!
@Sniperssx Жыл бұрын
Can I put normal greas
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
Normal grease should not harm the seal.
@bblakebrown5 жыл бұрын
What was wrong with the original seal? It looked to be in good condition.
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
You are correct. The seal was not leaking. The transmission was removed to replace the clutch. The engine had 183,000 miles on it and the customer wanted the seal replaced as preventive maintenance since it was easy to do while the transmission was out.
@chiefbubba25815 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster does this make the engine run better
@thatblackz18505 жыл бұрын
@@chiefbubba2581 no
@thatblackz18505 жыл бұрын
@@chiefbubba2581 all it does is keep it from going bad
@thehuntx4 жыл бұрын
Don't let looks fool you.
@smileyj36433 ай бұрын
Is that in a 460 engine
@DrivelineMaster3 ай бұрын
I don't remember for sure but I don't think so. There are a lot of engines that use this style rear main seal.
@syrthdr09sybr342 жыл бұрын
I always thought you were supposed to bottom out the seal to make sure it sits evenly.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
No, not always. Typically the seal should be installed at the same depth as the one taken out. Same goes for replacing bushings.
@syrthdr09sybr342 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster You do make a good point.
@hakeemskitchen77125 жыл бұрын
Hi, Which tool did you used to loosen it?
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
I'm unclear as to your question. I didn't use anything to loosen it. I tried to show off the KD seal removal tool that didn't work but it didn't loosen it. (it's now sold by Lisle #58430) I then showed you the technique that has always worked for me which is,two screws and a pry bar. Feel free to write back and clarify your question. By the way, i have used the Lisle tool on camshaft seals and it works great for smaller seals.
@anthonytran982903 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster please do not answer any stupid question, you are doing great buddy.
@tomsaltycookies31835 ай бұрын
Drilled the inside metal and caused serious damage... Whatever my seal is made out of it doesn't drill that easy
@DrivelineMaster5 ай бұрын
Not all rear main seals are of this design and not all will pull out from the back side like this one. If it is a metal clad seal designed to pull out from the back like this one they are made out of thin sheet metal and drill easily like this one. I'm sorry this was not clarified better in this video.
@thomasdorn72342 жыл бұрын
Professionals call that excellent Milwaukee a drill motor. TD Atlanta
@mutedrumsdaddy31083 жыл бұрын
Why white lithium over anything else?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Old habits. I know it works and doesn't cause any problems. You can use any other type of grease.
@RzVids3 жыл бұрын
So how do you know how far to drill and how far to screw?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Almost all seals are 3/8" to 1/2" deep. You can always look at the new seal. the metal part of all of these seals is almost always only about 1/16" so you don't need to drill very far. Even if you go through the metal seal part and nick the housing behind it, you won't cause any problems. You can just tell when you get through the first metal part of the seal. You will feel the drill give in a bit and then go in further without even turning the drill on. If drilling holes are new to you I can understand not having that feel and knowledge of breaking through the first metal part of the seal. As far as the screw, screw it in the depth of the new seal which is again about 3/8" to 1/2".
@crisnmaryfam73442 жыл бұрын
Screws will permanently damage the mating surface and any shop worth your money would fire any mechanic doing this ON THE SPOT.
@chriss436511 ай бұрын
Does this work on any car?
@DrivelineMaster11 ай бұрын
It works on most cars. The engine has to have a metal clad type seal that can be removed from the back side. Some designs are not metal clad or they don't remove from the back side. I'm sorry I can't tell you which exact vehicles this method will or will not work on. Sometimes I can tell by looking at the service manual information.
@chriss436511 ай бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster I have a 97 f150 4.6 not many videos about changing it.
@DrivelineMaster11 ай бұрын
I used this picture from ebay ( www.ebay.com/itm/174283156001?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=174283156001&targetid=1645685073568&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032064&poi=&campaignid=20398902184&mkgroupid=153051693033&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073568&abcId=9317281&merchantid=113792266&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhuXuv_GOgQMVE9HCBB31WA4IEAQYByABEgLDWvD_BwE ) to determine that my method will work just fine for this vehicle. The seal will remove from the back side and it is a metal clad type of seal. When you buy a new seal it will include the gasket for the housing that is shown in the picture. The beauty of my method is that you don't have to remove that seal housing or the oil pan. If you remove that housing you also need to remove the oil pan to properly reseal the bottom of the seal housing.
@cletusvanndam89274 жыл бұрын
Never put metal shavings in your engine
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
Well Yea...... The drill bit shavings don't go into the engine if you are thinking they did.The spiral flute pulls the shavings out not putting them in.
@chancewalker37863 жыл бұрын
is this on a dodge 5.2 magnum?
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
No this is not a Dodge.
@stevejanejamesjassteph59033 жыл бұрын
Just use a claw hammer under the screw head, nice & easy
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
Claw hammers are not a common tool in an auto shop. Home shop or constructions site, yes but not a auto shop.
@mustangracer512410 ай бұрын
Use the old seal to tap the new one in a ways.
@DrivelineMaster10 ай бұрын
Yes, I screwed up by not showing to do that. Of course that only works if the old seal is intact enough to do so.
@u8un7u5 жыл бұрын
Is carb cleaner safe for rubber?
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
I'm sorry I don't know this and seals are not 100% rubber but instead a compound so I guess it would depend on the compound of the seal and the chemical in the carb cleaner. If you want to use carb cleaner the same way I used brake Klen in the video I don't thing there would be a problem.
@slonon64104 жыл бұрын
I used grease on the outer edge of the seal, what problems might this cause ?
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
Shouldn't cause a problem
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
That is not good. Oh, no. The seal can leak and pop out causing a huge leak. The outer part of the seal creates a static seal between the housing and the seal. That area should always be dry and clean as possible. That part has to be a tight fit.
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
I misunderstood when I first replied that it would not be a problem.
@GeneralG18103 жыл бұрын
You want friction to hold the seal in place on the outer edge, but lubrication between the seal and the crank
@RzVids3 жыл бұрын
Wtfffff I added grease, installed it and went back under and it leaked the moment I started the engine
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
The leak wasn't caused by adding the grease. Something else went wrong with the installation. That really sucks I'm sorry to hear that your new installation is leaking. As a secondary measure since you normally can't inspect the seal while it's running because the transmission is installed there are other leak areas that can run down in that area and simulate a rear main seal leak. Check above the rear main seal. There could be valve cover, intake manifold, oil galley and oil pressure switch. All sometimes can leak in the rear area of the engine and simulate a rear main seal leak.
@raycortez6302 жыл бұрын
Do not use the drill and screw method you might screw something up. Just use a flat head screw driver and pry it out gently simple.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
You can screw anything up without care even using a flat blade screwdriver. Some seals are in really hard and leveraging with a flat blade can damage the housing or the crankshaft, that is if you can even get the proper leverage to force the seal out with the screwdriver. This method works really well but with everything you need to proceed cautiously.
@johnjkizer6399 Жыл бұрын
Installing the new seal with any type of hammer directly on the new seal is a bad idea, use the old seal if possible or even a piece of wood would work to gently tap it in.
@DrivelineMaster Жыл бұрын
I agree that a seal driver of the proper size is a better choice however even using a seal driver can be challenging if the seal is not first started into the bore with a tap from a hammer. I have been installing metal clad seals this way for over 44 years and if done carefully it works perfectly fine without damage to the seal. You are not the first, only or last person to have an issue with me using a hammer and if I had hind sight I would have added alternative, more appropriate installation techniques or methods.
@jdirt19824 жыл бұрын
It looks like you blew a seal........ Nope that's just a little ice cream ....
@reshpeck3 жыл бұрын
Classic
@brianolson95811 ай бұрын
Looks like you drilled through the metal and missed the seal
@DrivelineMaster11 ай бұрын
I did not. Many have made this comment that is why I put something in the description addressing this concern although I have to admit I never read the KZfaq descriptions. That hole is the drain back hole in the housing by design. I just happen to get lucky enough to pick that spot to drill into the seal which give the impression that I drilled into the housing. A closer inspection of the video will show that the amount of drilling that I did and the metal shavings do not support the effort, time and shavings that it would take to drill into the housing.
@snake81515 жыл бұрын
Great trick
@tspecht6102 жыл бұрын
Seriously you drilled right through the block behind the seal. Why did you or nobody else address this? That is not a good thing
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Please, please don't take this the wrong way but I have addressed this a million times in the comments below. The hole in the housing behind the seal was already there. It's the oil return hole. If I had drilled through the block I would have been drilling a whole lot longer with a lot of metal shavings. It just so happens that I picked that spot not knowing that the oil return hole was back there and viewers now think that I drilled into the block. Also notice the oil return hole is much larger than the drill I used.
@joegladue88632 жыл бұрын
How much to do this in a shop?
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
Depends on the vehicle and type of transmission.
@joegladue88632 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster 2013 ford f150 5.0l
@LifePurpose944 жыл бұрын
i changed the seal two times but i still have the same probleme on hyundai i30
@DrivelineMaster4 жыл бұрын
Then either the problem your trying to fix is not caused by the rear main seal or if the problem is an oil leak then either the seal was damaged or improperly installed or the surface on the crankshaft is damaged and no longer smooth and the crank is damaging the new seal. It's also possible the housing that the seal sits in is damaged causing an oil leak. Are you trying to solve an oil leak? Are you 100% certain it's coming from the rear main and not running down from some other seal above it such as a valve cover gasket or oil galley or camshaft plug? If you are 100% certain the problem is the rear main seal then you need to remove it and carefully inspect the crank and seal housing surfaces for damage. If there is no damage try to follow my instructional video only before you install your new seal go to a hardware store and see if you can purchase a short piece of pipe or PVC that as the inner and outer diameter of your seal. You can use this to install the seal. Instead of hitting on the seal put the pipe on the seal and hit on that. Also double check your new seal. Some rear main seals are supposed to be installed dry with no lube. If this is the case there should be instructions in the package telling you not to lubricate the seal.
@LifePurpose944 жыл бұрын
@@DrivelineMaster Thank you sir
@lukey35075 жыл бұрын
Use Silicone grease on rubber. White lithium is bad for rubber.
@DrivelineMaster5 жыл бұрын
It's one of those things that if you find something that has worked for you without any problems you continue doing it. I have been using White grease for over 40 years on engine and drive line seals without a problem. Remember these seals are a rubber compound designed with characteristics to work with oil, grease and petroleum products. Unlike radiator hose rubber or drive belt rubber where petroleum products will destroy them. Silicone grease might be a slightly better choice but I don't believe there is a problem with using white lithium grease or even wheel bearing grease on these metal clad seals that are designed for automotive engine, transmission, wheel bearing and differential use.
@gbolts304 жыл бұрын
Cant you just use engine oil to lubricate the seal?
@GeneralG18103 жыл бұрын
@@gbolts30 Yeah sure if you've got nothing else oil is fine
@jerryjamify3 жыл бұрын
I scratched my crankshaft using a screw, bewarned
@phneutraal79952 жыл бұрын
Put the old seal reversed on top of the new seal to tap it in.
@DrivelineMaster2 жыл бұрын
That sometimes works.
@bradysolaem24672 жыл бұрын
Can't touch this woah woah hammer time
@stellarv56893 жыл бұрын
Brake clean is bad for silicon plastic
@DrivelineMaster3 жыл бұрын
I don't recall silicon plastic being used. Brake clean was used to remove oil and grease residue. Brake clean is bad for all plastics.
@Limeayy6 жыл бұрын
I was wondering why not just use engine oil?
@DrivelineMaster6 жыл бұрын
You could oil on the lip portion of the seal and on the crankshaft seal surface. I stated that I prefer white grease. I have been using it for years with no problems. The advantage of grease over oil is the grease on the back side where the spring is will help to hold the garter spring in place when hammering in the seal. Sometimes the shock of using a hammer on a metal clad seal will cause the spring to pop out of position. This will destroy the seal and cause a leak.