Thank You!

Thank You

Yeah budget electrical parts will cause nothing but problems.

Honestly either way would work but the best method in my opinion is to use the bigger chamber head with flat top pistons. One of the problems with all Ford motors in the 1970’s was the pistons being so far down in the hole when they are at top dead center. This causes problem with detonation. I have a 460 here that I’m putting together and I had to have .040 cut off the deck of the block to get the pistons to zero deck. So 72cc heads would raise the compression up very easily but with the piston that far down in the hole it will be hard to keep it from spark knocking even on premium fuel. A flat top piston with the bigger chamber head will get you any where from 8.5:1-9.5:1 compression just depending on if you use a true flat top or one of the fuel injected 460 pistons which have a very small dish and whether or not you have the block decked. Of course you have to remember the timing set they used back then also retarded the camshaft 8 degrees which also hurt the power output. If you get a timing set for a 1970 429/460 it will have straight up timing. You would be surprised how much just a straight up timing set and opening the exhaust up and recurving the distributor on an other wise stock motor wakes it up. The Edelbrock intake hp wise will gain you nothing over the stock intake. All you get is a weight savings over the stock intake. As far as Edelbrock carbs I’m honestly not a fan. Lots of people like them but they don’t have a good set up for Ford automatic kick downs on the transmissions. You have to buy adapters and stuff to make it work. I’ve always been a Holley carb person. Holleys and Quadrajets believe it or not. 429 Cobra Jets actually came with a Rochester Quadrajet on them. Now those spreadbore Motorcrafts that came on Lincoln 460’s are horrible. But the truck 460’s all came from the factory with a 600 cfm Holley. Lots of people will disagree with me but I generally stay between a 600 and 650 cfm on a 460. When you up the compression, open the exhaust and stuff up, they become more efficient as don’t need as much fuel. Now if you are going to turn your engine 5500-6500 rpms frequently then yeah you would probably want to go to a 750cfm. But street cruising 5,000 rpms and under I’d stay with a 600-650 cfm carb.

I can tell you know what you are talking about. I also noticed edelbrock carbs have a complicated kick down and linkage setup. And pricey, but I figured it would work better with their intake. As far as a straight up timing set, could I keep the remaining valve train I have now and just replace the timing set?

@@katkiller50 yes. Changing the timing will not affect the valve train in any way. Basically all you are doing is moving the cam timing forward 8 degrees. The cam timing would then be the same as any pre smog era 429/460.

You don't "have" to have it hooked up but I would recommend that you do hook it up. Especially for street use. You will get better fuel mileage with it hooked up. Under hard acceleration mechanical advance does the timing advance but under part throttle cruising is where the ported vacuum helps out. The modification I'm showing here just limits the total amount of mechanical advance and brings the mechanical advance in sooner rpm wise. You will still have to fine tune your vacuum advance on the distributor if you run it.

If you used the Edelbrock carb you mentioned before, the ported vacuum is the nipple on the left of the carb when you are facing it...the nipple that is on the passenger side of the carb in the front. Notice it's above the throttle blades on the carb which means its ported vacuum. Only has vacuum when the throttle is opened. The drivers side nipple is manifold vacuum because it is below the throttle blades. If you have vacuum on the ported nipple at idle then the throttle blades are opened too far.