Thanks. Suspension work can be painful but it is so worth it. Car rides like new now :)

Thanks! Glad the videos help you out. The wheels are 17x8.5 ET20 and tires are 215/40/17. Springs are vert specific, yes.

Thanks! I plan to get this done next week if possible so I will look into it.

www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone#desc@@NoGaragE30

I used 3m silicone paste to slide sway bar end links in. Just don't put too much. It might pop out.

Good question but Im not sure to be honest. FWIW I have never seen any brace product advertising that claim. I dont have that option on the convertible anyways. Rear bar function on these cars is questionable also.

Thats awesome. Takes me 2-3x as long to finish the job when filming, not counting all the time that goes into editing. Comments like this make it all worth it.

Thanks for watching and the good comments. I agree that is the best way to do it. I did have the floorjack on the trailing arm providing some level of compression so the bolt went in straight and the bushing was not stretched in any way.

Thanks, and go for it! Nothing like fresh suspension components to make the car driver better. Shocks/struts are the most expensive components so you might as well replace anything else in need of a refresh while you are in there, especially in the front.

I already changed everything else just down do the struts and shocks. I've had the car over 20 years and still enjoy it to this day. Good to see more E30 stuff out there.

That is a long time. I can only hope Im able to keep mine for that long and pass it on to my son one day.

I know what you mean, my son grew up with it and wants to pry it out of my hands. Still too much fun to drive. Its hard to part with something you had so much enjoyment with, lots of drivers schools and north Georgia windy roads.

I tried for a while and even used big channel pliers to help me but just could not get the links to slide in. I was already tired after a long day of doing everything else and just gave up. I then read a few threads online about some people using dish soap as lubrication. Will be trying that at some point soon.

The B8 + H&R Sport is not too much different from stock, especially on good roads. I would highly recommend this setup if you are going through the effort.

It all rotates freely so there is nothing to align and you can rotate after tightening the top with no problem.

NoGaragE30 that’s great, thanks! I also saw a video on the e34 and there you need to align one of the three top nuts on the rear according to the one who is doing it. Is that correct there? Or is it also freely movable on the e34? I am aware that it is another system, with the spring integrated on the shock. Many thanks again!

No experience with the E34 so I couldnt say, but on a coilover setup like that you may have to align the top mounts before tightening so that the spring sits correctly on the perch etc. I've had to do this on my Subaru.

Im not sure I understand what you mean about the sway bars? Are you trying to replace these? If you are just doing struts like I am in this video there is no need to remove the sway bars at all, you just unbolt the links that attach to it so that the control arms can move down. As for the strut top nuts, you do need an open socket to allow you to fit an allen wrench and do this the right way. Using an impact wrench would be the only other way I know of, and some people swear there is no issue with using one, but I have personally seen cases where it damages the damper as I highlight in this video.

NoGaragE30 I was just wondering which arm or bar needed to be removed with the special remover tool. Not needed perhaps while undoing the control arms etc?

You will use the ball joint separator on both the tie rods and the control arm joints. Here is the one I use: www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE

NoGaragE30 all right that is totally clear. Many thanks!

Still a question. Is it doable without the special socket by using an impact wrench?

Rides great for my taste but I drive mostly on good roads and Im used to stiff suspension setups. I hear the B8s are on the stiff side compared to the Konis, that offer an adjustable option.

@@NoGaragE30 Got it I'll probably end up going for the koni's then. thanks for the reply!

@@franciscomaldonado2932 FYI, I wouldn't get the konis spec'd for standard e30 unless you're barely lowering it and/or keeping fairly soft spring. I had some coilovers kind of like ground control setup with them first, wasn't great, but was manageable. Then had Ground Control coilovers and always seemed to not get high enough in the rear even at max. With the Bilstein sports, my ground control coilovers seem to operate properly and the rear finally seems to sit a bit higher(although I would love if the dumb GC still went higher in the rear for better tire wear)

You could use an impact wrench but you dont have any control of how much torque you are applying and you run the risk of damaging the shaft. I use the open/go-thru socket to tighten by hand and then I finish with a regular torque wrench once the strut assembly is installed and under the weight of the car. That is the correct way to do it. There are still many out there who say the impact is ok and many shops do just that. The question is, are you willing to take the risk? I was not happy when I found out I had a damaged strut and had to do this job all over again. That is why I never use the impact for this nut anymore. Even Bilstein says not tu use an impact wrench on their hardware, Im sure they get customer complains all the time after they damage the shaft with excessive force.

NoGaragE30 okay, that is clear. I cannot find an open socket here in Belgium since I am struggling to find the word in Dutch or French. Or in German perhaps? I would want to order one from Autodoc. If I cannot find one, I could use a dropped ring spanner and an allen that goes thru. That would work to but it won’t be pre tightened as with your way of doing it properly. Also, I am wondering how I will be able to loosen the nut holding the shock breaker. I cannot find a Bilstein “key” anywhere. Won’t I damage the locking ring by doing it the way you did? I am referring to the part where you are using your body weight to undo it.

Here are the ones I have www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/strut-nut-socket-19mm/003046sch01a-02/ www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html I could not find a Bilstein key anywhere either. The channel lock pliers worked great, just minor scratches that don't matter.

Thanks. Im using B8 shocks which are designed to work with lowering springs.

@@NoGaragE30 ok thanks you! I will order B8 :)

How do you like the ride on b8’s ? Does the ride feel smoother or harsh?

Lots of nuts to torque down on a project like this. I follow the Bentley service manual for all torque specs. Are you asking for any in particular? If you are talking about the top nuts for the shocks, I just used as much force as I could with my hands. No impact gun here, I can't stress that enough.

I would have liked to if I had a way to do it, any suggestions? I usually torque everything I can when it makes sense. I got it in there pretty tight with my channel locks and dont think that it's going anywhere. I've done this job twice on this car and had no issues so far.

I believe all the parts in this video would be the same for the coupe. The H&R Sport springs that I use are convertible specific though (different rates due to the added weight). Generally speaking the parts are the same for coupe and convertibles, but there are some exceptions. I would always recommend checking a source like bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30/ just to make sure.