the link does not work

@@neoalejo07 Sorry, seems to work on my end. If you go back to my channel page you will be able to find it there as well if the link isn't working for you.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting

Well I had to get this past an inspection by the City so I knew I had to do it right. Thanks for watching and commenting.

No need to anchor the box

Not a problem very glad that it was able to help you out on your project.

Thanks for Watching, That's what I'm hoping to get out of this channel, learn some things as I go along and share what I learn along the way so others can feel more confident taking on projects like these are well. The Eaton kits are great. Make sure to check out some of the other videos as I'm trying to do that same with a variety of other projects.

@@ResearchDesignBuild i will definitely

Really glad it helped you out!

Very glad to hear it helped.

Glad it helped, thanks for watching!

Glad the video helped! Thanks for watching.

I was surprised at the lack of detailed instructions with the Halo lights - absolutely nothing about this.

Thanks watching and for subscribing much appreciated. Best of luck with your install and I hope you neck isn't as sore as mine was after painting the ceiling. Painting Ceilings is one thing that I find less than enjoyable.

Glad it helped out. I will have another video shortly about cutting them into the ceiling and doing the final installation.

Two more videos are out now on my channel explaining the rest of the process, hopefully you find them just as useful.

Not a problem, glad it was helpful to you. If you have any questions later on let me know in the comments section.

Glad I could help you out on your project. Make sure to subscribe and check out my other videos on my channel. If you found this one helpful I'm sure there will be several others that are also helpful for you.

Thanks, Check out the rest of my videos on my channel, there are lots more videos already posted on home renovation topics.

Glad it helped

Thanks John. Make sure to subscribe so you don't miss the next one.

Yes those are kind of tricky to figure out the first time you use them. I will keep that in mind for the next videos. Thanks.

After having done it I think I would do it the same way. Although maybe invest in a laser to help line everything up faster. There are two reasons. First I insulated the ceiling and the insulation was blown in as the drywall was put up. If they cut holes as they went I would have insulation falling out of the holes all the time while they pumped in more insulation. The second reason is painting the ceiling. It was way easier without the pre cut holes, no contaminants like insulation and bits of drywall dust from the cut outs getting stuck to the roller.

Thanks!

​@@ResearchDesignBuildcan I use #10 wire for these?

But wait, there's more. Thanks man 👍

@@ZeroOne46 Thanks for watching

Also much easier to film for a video. I tried filming a retrofit video, but it was challenging not to just get a lot of video of one arm up a 6 inch hole in the ceiling.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

They are available from homedepot in Canada. Another viewer in the US told me he wasn’t able to find the same deal. www.homedepot.ca/product/halo-selectable-series-6-inch-integrated-led-5-colour-2700k-to-5000k-round-blade-light-fixture-8-pack-with-smart-dimmer/1001214699

Probably not without a lot of work. For these lights in the video it is the box that controls the color or temperature of the light, not the light plate or LED it self. I would un wire the existing box and wire in the box for the LED light that you purchase.

Those connectors were part of the light as it came from Eaton. If the ones you purchased don't have that style of connector you can purchase that style separately. www.homedepot.ca/product/ideal-push-in-wire-connectors-assorted-10-pack-/1000511478 They are just referred to as push in wire connectors.

I believe that cut outs for lights are OK in that situation. If you have lights already in the ceiling there has to be a junction box already that has a hole cut in the drywall for it. So this wouldn't be any different. The best thing to do would be to call the City were you are living and ask an inspector if it is OK. Typically they will tell you over the phone yes or no, provided you ask nicely. Their job should be all about making sure people do things safely.

There are holes in the bracket or in the back of the box when you open it and you can use a small screw through those holes to secure it to the stud.

Paying close attention! Yes you are right I didn't catch that during my editing. Thanks for watching.

You could go down to a plug but remember that when you turn the light off at the switch you will also turn off power to that switch. It will also result in you needing to put an Arc Fault breaker in for that circuit as it now has a plug on it. Most areas still allow standard breakers for lighting circuits as long as there are no plugs on that circuit.

The 8 packs were sold up in Canada at Home Depot and included one dimmer. www.homedepot.ca/product/halo-selectable-series-6-inch-integrated-led-5-colour-2700k-to-5000k-round-blade-light-fixture-8-pack-with-smart-dimmer/1001214699

You have to just gently pull on them while twisting them back and forth, they will kind of unscrew from the terminal, but unlike a screw you don't need to keep spinning it in the same direction, you can go back and forth a 1/4 turn at a time.

You would have to pull out the light and manually change it up at the box. It would be a bit of a pain to do but typically people aren't changing their light settings on a regular basis.

No there is no reduction in light output as you add lights. Each light get's the full voltage. There is a limit though as to how many lights can be on a given circuit and that will vary by area and different building codes, but I believe we are at 15 per circuit in Canada.

Yes if you were installing these in an upper floor then that would make sense. But this was in a basement so the only access would be though the 6 inch opening in the ceiling that was cut out for the actual light itself. You can mount the box in any orientation you want, so whatever is going to make it the easiest for the person that needs to change it out in the future is the way to go.

@@ResearchDesignBuild Roger that. Did not catch that was in a basement.

@@4x4dually Not a problem I don't think I spelled that out in the video either.

Twist with some gentle pressure and it should come back out. Or twist back and forth, you don't have to twist it all around in one direction.

It is up off the drywall by 1 3/4 inches. The thickness of a 2x4. There is t much to service and remember you will only have a 6 inch hole to service it through. So really you would need to unhook the box from the screws. It can slide off. Then pull it through the hole and replace it as required. There really aren’t any serviceable parts inside the box just the push to connect electrical connections.

THAT'S WHY YOU DON'T ANCHOR THE BOX!

I haven't used it yet as I am still working through the rough in part of the basement. However there is an App from Eaton called Halo Home that you need to download and then you can connect to the dimmer that comes with the kit. You can also buy mode blue tooth dimmers if you need. From the app you con connect to the dimmer and then control it from your phone, program in schedules, timers, etc.

No unfortunately you have to pull down the LED panel and change the color setting on the box.

They sell ones now that have a Bluetooth module connected to every light. Dimming and color temp are then controlled by the app.

Probably a good point to clarify. It does not matter which of the 3 holes you pick to push your wires into on the connectors. It's 4 wire connector that allows you to joint up to 4 wires together. The factory used one of those holes and you get to pick which one you use of the remaining holes to make your connection. Just keep the wire colors together.

@@ResearchDesignBuild thanks. That's what I thought. But very easy to go wrong on things.

@@paulduffy4585 Not a problem any time

@@ResearchDesignBuild appreciate the response.

Not a stupid question as I had been wondering about the connections as well. The lackluster documentation provided with Halo lights only talks about using wire nuts and never even mentions the quick connect. Thanks for asking and thanks for answering!

Thanks, I'm in Western Canada

If you let the smoke out of the ballast, then the ballast is probably cooked and needs to be replaced. If you have a spare dimmer that might be the easier item to try to replace while troubleshooting. The ballasts aren't as easy to replace through a 6 inch opening in the ceiling.

Yes that wouldn't be an issue. Not sure why you would want to go to the extra expense of 12-2 for an LED lighting circuit though.

When you purchased the bulk pack they did come with a dimmer. If you purchased the smaller packs, or the singles they did not come with the dimmer.

Yes these one are rated for direst contact with insulation as well as rated for damp environments like over top of your shower. Make sure to check the box for the ones you are buying a look for the certification. Also take a picture or save the box for the inspector as that is 100% something they will check for.

Are you referring to the control box for the LED panel that gets mounted during the rough in stage? If you are then this is accessible when the light is removed, and these do meet all current electrical codes. These are not junction boxes. No different then pre wiring your pot light boxes. You have to remove the light to access the wired connection and this is no different.

​@@ResearchDesignBuild Any time you make a splice into a line wire back to a breaker (just a switch) to the main panel there needs to be some sort of electrical box "accessibility". Your accessibility may or may not pass NEC or local inspection* which may get flagged at time you sell the home and or an insurance claim. Your attic space above the ceiling being accessible and /or visible by sight?.This border lines on hidden splice/junction- same NEC code that requires disconnects at a certain height and visibility especially with interconnects. Exposed fixtures can have junction boxs like florescent lights where line is coming into the fixture with ballast however I dont need to take the light off and search behind a hole for the the splice- one example. Traditional CANNED RECESSED lighting is visible and has other IC measures. I would agree IF THE JUNCTION BOX IS MOUNTED. You have your canless LED mounted in new constriction framing, in old work I have seen, failures where people just slip canless junction boxs back on the ceiling drywall unmounted- not good. For old work suggest the junction box accessible with these canless systems. One can buy longer 10ft to 30ft Load screw-in connectors from most reputable LED manufactures; The junction box can than be located via an accessible area and place on a wall or attic space * longer copper conductors may have to be fished but best practices. * this is no different than "pucK" LED hard wired under cabinet kitchen lighting where you have junction boxes (a single gang "carlon" blue box could be a junction box with or with out a device complies to fill-capacity but its accessible from the wall or ceiling not hidden in wall or ceiling) inside kitchen cabinets/on top of cabinet mounted to frame that cant be seen common view but- accessible yes- hidden behind wall or ceiling- no.

@@proanswers I appreciate your comments. However this new style of LED is fully compliant with all codes. CSA certified and has all the required certifications for both installation in Canada and the US. Models like this are sold by several different manufacturing companies, and not just the fly by night guys. The big lighting companies are making these lights. I am not doing this work under the table, everything has been inspected and has passed. The pig tail is only a few inches long so it isn't like you can mount the box 10 feet away from the opening and hide it in the ceiling.

@@ResearchDesignBuild Good answer, good video! New LED wafer lights have different junction boxes and methods of installation that are code compliant and safe. I personally, like to use the knockouts, when wiring multiple lights, as it affords more room to make your connections.

@@DaruDhillon Thanks, much appreciated.

I can't say I have run into this issues on these lights. But I do know that the dimmers are really sensitive to the ground wire being attached correctly and having a good ground. I'm sure your electrician would have checked that but both at the switch and throughout the circuit. Did you have 6" and 4" versions? And chance that the control boxes got mixed up between them? That would also do it.

@@ResearchDesignBuild Ooooohhhh... the grounding. That might be it. The area of the house where the issue is happening is NOT grounded (it's all super old, just bought the house, and have been debating re-wiring the whole house). Didn't think about the grounding at all for flickering issue. And to answer your question, 4" version

@@markfinster I would run a temporary ground wire over and see if that fixes it before doing anything major. But LED lights, dimmers, and motion sensors are things that really like a good ground wire.

That is unusual. You will have to go back and test out all your connections and potentially try out a different fixture and or swap out the electrical box that has the driver in it for the LED panel. It's always frustrating when it doesn't work right away. I had some challenges with a 3 way switch on my renovation trying to figure out how the electricians that wired the rest of the house wired that one up. took a bit to get to figure out what they did and get it working right.

You are very right!

Having worked in industries for so long that requires safety glasses that are sealed to your face, putting these on when doing work is just second nature. Not the most stylish, but only have 2 eyes.

@@ResearchDesignBuild Where did you get them? I need a pair like yours. Couldn't care less how they look (and they look fine to me).

You are correct, I got my terminology wrong.

It doesn't always make for the most exciting video. But it sure helps when you are in the process of figuring it out yourself for the first time. Glad it helped you on your project.

Yes are absolutely right.

more useless than this comment?

Oh just wait till you see my latest video in a week! Its all gone and some little kid somewhere with cancer will be getting a free wig.