Thanks Mike :)

Thank you! 😊

When I build a kit with an engine but decide the close the cowl (rare), I always build/detail the engine, make some sort of stand and display the engine next to the completed kit. No fit issues, best of both worlds.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you! Cheers!

if you like brushpainting and I know i'm hella late, Citadel Base XL brush worked fine for me for years before I moved to an airbrush. Thin your plaints and take care of your brush it will serve you well

Thanks Copper69. Usually I start about 15 psi and from there increase or decrease the pressure to get the best possible result. If I am spraying over large areas I usually stick to 15 psi or a little more. If I am trying to do a little more precise work (like mottling), I cut back on the psi and thin down the paint just a wee bit.

Hi Binoy, I was based in India but have moved to Singapore some time back. But I am still part of Indian Scale Modellers group. We have a page on fb and if you are already not signed up you should. Getting Tamiya products in India (actually anywhere) is not easy, since the paints are not 100% water based, no one will airmail them. Surface mail is not reliable. While in India, I used to order Vallejo or Mig paints, these are water based and will be shipped directly. www.migjimenez.com/en/ Vallejo paints I bought through Hobby Link Japan. www.hlj.com/ You can also get kits, tools, etc. from HLJ. They ship quickly and relatively cheaply. But make sure you don't order too much at once or the parcel will get intercepted by customs. Once again, do join ISM on fb and you will get a lot of helpful tips from fellow modellers in India :)

Right then. 1. Water is an acceptable substitute for water...lol....i think you got a typo there in the question :) 2. Broadly there are two ways to apply a wash...sludge or pin/line wash. When you paint the entire kit with a wash that is usually a sludge wash. When you apply the wash only in the panel lines, that is a pin or line wash. Which technique you chose depends on the final effect you want from the finished kit. For example, a pin wash would perhaps be more suited to a pristine finish model, a sludge may perhaps to better with a more weathered aircraft. Also, the sludge wash adds some colour hue to the kit as well. 3. About the choice of colour. Usually, one goes by where the aircraft would be located. So North African aircraft would probably get a light brown wash or sand coloured, Russian a much darker wash...so on. In fact there are several washes specifically made for various theaters of war. But one need not buy every wash, a few references on the forums will tell you which type of wash is best for which aircraft. Also, I usually use grey washes on dark coloured aircraft so that the panel lines would show. I am not myself very particular about soil colour and so forth, I just follow broad rules. In the end, if all else fails, go with what you like :) Hope that helps...good luck with your builds.

Normally Super Glue, extra thin won't hold PE parts. I do sometimes use old fashioned white glue for PE.

Hey Ninja....I use medium super glue. Firstly, as darson100 puts is super thin glue tends to make a rather brittle joint. But, for me, the bigger reason is that thin super glue cures within seconds and that makes making adjustments to the placement of the piece very difficult. Medium super glue takes a little longer to cure and one has the chance to move it about a little. Like when one has to line up the base of the instrument panel with the face of the panel. As a result, my preferred choice is medium super glue.

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Ok. thanks for the info.

Hey Danco...these are water colour pencils. These are from AK Interactive and meant for modelling, however, normal water colour pencils work just as well and I have used them for several years. Hope that helps :)

@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Thank you. Ill look into it. I just got into minis and I may have a serious problem now. i cant stop.

You are incorrect. The RLM revision of the L.Dv. 521/1 dated March 1938 was not revised officially until November 1941 (and the revision still carried the 1938 origination date), though some manufacturers seem to have been experimenting with the 74/75/76 scheme as early as April/May 1941. Even after the order the 71/02/65 scheme remained in use for some time on operational day fighters. At any rate, both dates are well after the BoB period culminating in September 1940. Do your homework and get your facts straight, no one wants to hear unsupported OPINION. Nice work on the model!