This is a really good explanation and smart design. Thanks!

Your DIYs are great. Another DIY upgrade is to use a wireless remote winch control module for ATV Trucks and Jeeps. They cost under $20 on Amazon. I installed one back in 2016 which still works great. No foot switches needed or installed, but I do have a wired switch if needed.

Excellent explanation! ⚡️

Nice work Clark! I also like your haircut!

stuff i understand! love it! thank you. I'm looking forward to the next anchor video. I have to find out why my switch or something is tripping a circuit breaker sometimes on an otherwise working anchor circuit. Cheers, Phil / SV Cambio

One comment about circuit protection, the windlass control wiring should have its own circuit breaker. This is typically much smaller wire than for the windlass motor and should be appropriately protected. My boat has a Lofrans Tigres windlass with a 1200W motor. There is a 150A breaker for the windlass near the bow battery (group 4D Lifeline AGM which also powers the bow thruster via 400A fuse). The windlass control wiring is protected by a 10A breaker in my DC panel. I have a momentary rocker switch at the helm and foot control buttons at the helm.

Windlassbattery is a good idea , on a 45ft boat the cable needed is more expensive than the battery. OR you could have a 24v windlass in a 12v boat, Victrons step up charger ! Most common problem is the electric dc motor, pls make a video about how to check / measure a dc motor rotor 😊

Great Vid! Thanks

Ship-Fecesious - Lovely :)

The last one I repaired used a single relay that was reversible however to save money the previous owner purchased an unequal one rated for around 100 amps up and only about 30 amps down. It was constantly tripping the breaker pulling up but would take a heavy load in reverse which turned out to be due to it being wired backwards. Only one pedal with a separate reversing switch to prevent accidentally stepping on two pedals at the same time so at least that was good. When we double checked with the winch manufacturer we found out that the previous owner was even cheaper than we feared since his Non-OEM reversing relay was only half the rated capacity of the OEM. Of course it was all inside the chain locker with no access from above and a very small wooden cabinet door in the V-Berth that you could barely get your head through so all the work was one handed with mirrors to see the hidden from view electrical gear. We replaced it with a new reversing relay that matched OEM load specs. Of course the old one crumbled to dust when we removed it. All connections were crimped, soldered and marine shrink wrapped once we were done. Glad we found this out testing the windlass at the dock and not out on a cruise in critical conditions. Bottom line is never assume that what is already there is correct as way too many (including "Professionals") take too much license with specs to either save money or increase their profits. It's sad to see the Evils one finds in "Professionally" surveyed yachts from major brokers. Best!

Looking forward to the next one on anchoring. I'm upgrading my system at the moment. I will never have a problem with my windlass, I don't have one, so unless I lose my gloves or put my back out ........

1. IIWMI'D put a 40A? self-reset brkr on the ~8ga charge wire to the windlass batt. 2. In general I find Cole-Hersee an excellent go to brand for quality controlled solenoids & switches of the type for these applications that should last quite a while 3. Dielectric grease on all wet location contacts? 4. Do you keep a P.M. log on parts to change out at intervals? 5. Nice shirt & suave looking haircut

Couldn't be clearer. Thanks.

I have a 1984 scia 50 and the windless corded remote is not work ! Do you think I can find a new remote? Oh yeah! Love your channel! Cheers Yukon John

Hello Clark, I recently redesigned my windlass electrics. I mounted the solenoids and the remote radio receiver to a piece of starboard, and enclosed all of that circuitry in a pelican style case (Apache case from Harbor Freight), and relocated them to the storage space under the v-berth. In my case it meant about a 2' longer cable run to the windlass, but it got the electrics out of the chain locker, to a dry location. Used 00 cable to minimize voltage drop. This made future replacement of the solenoids easier as I no longer had to stuff myself into the sometimes smelly, damp chain locker. In your depiction of Temptress' circuit, wouldn't you want the Circuit breaker ahead of the windlass master switch rather than after? I quite like the idea of a self re-setting breaker, as it is a pain to have to go down below to reset. Regards, Mike.

👍!!!

Clark, what's your opinion on mounting an fisherman's drum anchor on deck, one that spools up all the rode and chain.

Great video, thank for sharing. Do you still sell the A/Cs?

Ideal was acquired by Schaefer Marine in 2016. They support them but it doesn’t sound like they have continued to manufacture.

Most of the circuits on my boat are switched on and off by throwing the breaker at the panel. Do the larger currents of the windlass motor require that switch and circuit breaker be separate?

Instead of using a constant duty solenoid, does anyone make just a DPDT with centre off default, solenoid activated heavy current switch. or is that a bad idea

To stop your deck switches from both being activated at the same time... use spdt switches. Join the commons (centre) together run battery to both N.C. and the N.O. to the relays. I try ascii art :) Up Dn | | _________ / \ + + Don't know if that makes sense

How do you charge the windlass battery from the house battery? DC-DC charger?

Dude, you need to tuck your chest hair into your shirt. LOL. I know it is a windscreen of some sort.