Interesting video. I'd like to see more comparison videos. For example single vs twin scroll, how different turbine housings affect powerbands, stock vs aftermarket intake manifold etc. If that's possible. Great stuff!

Iv used maxspeeding turbos for years now and I haven't had any issues that I didn't cause. Running their rods in my white block as well and they haven't given me any trouble either.

Put the tubular manifold on with the max peeding rods turbo. Then lay all 4 graphs over each other

I got a kangaroosteam cast manifold for my turbo e30 and it was nearly 1000rpm faster spool than the tubular manifold I had before.

This is honestly one of the best comparison videos I've seen of an a/b comparison of the Maxpeeding GT3582r clone turbo vs the Garrett . Nicely done and very informative.

really huge thanks for doing this comparison man!!!

I had the same ebay turbo on my talon for two years on 25psi

and yeah that cast manifold seem to be doing good, rather have a good midrange and earlier spool, unless one is running close ratio transmissions and always is laying on the top

Thanks for the info fellas. If you do something like this again, I would be interested to see the heat retention differences on the manifolds. A quick IR thermometer reading would do it. I've heard cast manifolds will hold the heat in better

I’d imagine sizing the turbo and cams appropriate for the power desired, and if targeting response and early spool the short manifold is going to be beneficial but running big cams and a big turbo like g45 a decent long tube will probably work better for top end only power. Edit lol pretty much what you said it’s good to see the findings are as expected

Throw on a stock intake manifold and that turbo will spool even sooner with gains throughout the midrange and throw in VVTi that turbo will see full boost by 3000-3200 rpm

Been running my max speeding turbo on my 940 for 2 years 15-20lb boost and it's fine great

Love this vid, very interesting👍

Great Video, the most common reason i think Maxspeeding rods fail on cars is because people think they are ball bearing and have no idea to run them without a restrictor I even know the differences or how turbos function. I was looking at going from castiron twinscroll to tubular but thinking might just stick with the cast iron.

Im looking into this setup for my 2jz and I noticed you are using a twin scroll manifold with a single scroll turbo. Is that normal? Thank you for the content!

Just bought a similar maxpeedingrods turbo for my Redblock build

just for curiosity (cause overall comparison is good as hell!): there were any changes in the tune between those setups? How the AFRs were looking?

nice dyno!

This video was the deciding factor on my 2jz aristo

That ebay turbo, you can hear the vibration those vibrations will rattle bolts loose and hurt gaskets

I need that cast manifold!

Tubular manifolds with slightly smaller diameter runners spools amazing, but you pretty must need to have that custom made

Twin vs single scroll comparaison would be nice

What size engine? What A/R on the 3582? Specs on the 2nd turbo?

Did you guys run the maxspeedingrods on the tubular?

I thought the ebay turbos myths died 10 years ago...I've had several in that span with no problems, now on a gtx3582r dual bearing ebay turbo..same one that bosted boys use..no problems yet @15 psi.. since my 1jz don't see many redline pulls, I probably should have gone with a smaller exhaust housing..

you should test the intake manifold and see what benefits are

just bought a 320i e46 bmw with a m54b22 engine only has 208kmxx rust free and subframe is mint as well. got it for 4500$ gunna make it a daily drifter slash work car, cant wait to check out mission race way!!

got confused when seeing a 1jz dyno test on my feed, but then read you put it up ;

Still alittle restricted for me being a .63 rear housing, but for being that compressor size with the .63 rear makes for a damn good spool time for a 3582 on 17lbs I’m impressed!

good vid, i'm not sure why max speeding rods only sell them in a 0.6 rear, a .8 or 1.0 would be much better for power, i have a max speeding rods 3076 with a .8 rear and its been running well for a few years now on low boost

Definitely higher exhaust back pressure with the Cast manifold. That would help with spool rpm but does tend to decrease power up top.

Man I been looking for a video like this for like a year and a half now to final figure out how much of a difference in spool time the cast manifold makes. I didn't think it was that much thoigh 600rpm. Wow. Only thing that sucks is in terms of engine sound specially on the 2JZ which is similar to this anyways the tubular pure engine sound sounds better but sadly would be less responsive for a street car. Which kind of sucks cause I love the 2JZ engine sound but I guess you gotta pick what you want more responsive car or better sounding car. Idk maybe it's not that much of a difference in sound after all but not from the sound clips I've heard.

Try an Artec cast manifold.

Chinese turbos versus turbos made in Mexico. I would buy a budget turbo all day long Chinese turbos have come a long way and reliability in the last 10 years

Wait what the fork? Dude, I don't know how I feel about my Volvo redblock making more AT THE TIRES with 7 psi more!!! What the frigg!? Not making fun but I gotta ask, Is that motor hurt? Stainless steel does crack its a$$ off, he's right. Envoy cast stock manifolds crack too though..You know the Ameribarra, the bigblock supras brother motor with honda k2x specs.Really love my Envoy.LOL. I am probably the only one in Amercia that has broken a maxspeeding rod , and it was no fault of the rod. Cool vid.

Team Kanga Gang 🦘🔥🦘

nice one, i use cast one on my supra, even with boost controller higher BHP is not possible unfortunately. mine makes 470WHP @1.6bar 62MM bowrgwarner. but i still like it. with same setup , i used ebay tubular manifold and it was making close to 600WHP. but it bent and it was so much pain in ass to remove it from the engine. by the way the right installation si wastegate up positioned. what you ve done is correct. but we have an idea,, we are thinking to open the wastegate port and install 60mm wastegate. with this we might get a bit better WHP.

What sort of wastegate is that? Doesnt look preticulary pretty, neither does it have a shiny name on it like turbosmart, Tial, hks or so. Būt deff a seen designs on some high HP builds. So yeah, how are they called?

With too small turbo tubular might be better, but with big turbo cast wins in spool and power.

Kangaroos Team recently released a manifold for the B230 platform. Would love to see this done on a Volvo or get your thoughts by the seat of your pants.

"As long as it doesnt wreck your engine" what a disclaimer

I am surprised the turbo lasted that long. The one I got didnt last a minute. They would not even warranty the garbage.

Too bad they don’t make a 1jz vvti manifold

99% of turbo guys dont need tubular equal lenght manifold. Apart from making heat in the engine bay and burning up everything around the add lag on biblical ptoportion. Id rather go short runner bigger AR housing than vise versa. Been there done all that.

So you’re comparing a T3 max speeding rods 3582 against a T4 Garrett and noticing that it’s quicker to spool but makes less peak? Amazing. Need to do apples to apples. Not apples to oranges lol. Horrible power on a engine dyno for 17psi on E85 with that combo. Likely very low timing based on the fact the wastegate adapter is blowing red as the EGT’s go to the moon.

I'd take earlier spool, torque and power. You can add back in the hp up top, better average hp and a broader power band. People shit on cheap turbos but they really arent bad, their only downfall is the precise aero dynamics, the turbos arent poorly made or anything. You tried to shit on the max talking about it held together, turbo failures are almost always user fault, this is a precision tool

The wastegate priority on the tubular was straight garbage... Surprised it didn't creep

Maxspeeding Rods turbos are sh!t. Always check and compressor wheel nuts! Their first turbos they didn't even put a counter rotating thread and nut on their compressor wheel! My turbo latest 3 months before the compressor wheel inhaled the nut holding the compressor wheel on! Not only that but when the catastrophic failure happened it completely snapped the turbo shaft in half, and sheered of the exhaust wheel and sent it down the exhaust in front of the cat! It occured 2 days out from their warranty even though I proved that it was a manufacturer defect by comparing the compressor nut from their dead turbo to the dead stock turbo I still had in my garage? I sent them photos showing that they didn't put the reverse thread on the compressor nut like they are supposed to! I was lucky that my intercooler caught all the debris from the turbo explosion otherwise it would have destroyed my motor. They showed little to no sympathy and just kept claiming that my claim is out of warranty? I said it's not warranty it's a manufacturer defect! In the end I got sick of arguing with them....all I wanted was my money back so I could fix their f*** up? I didn't waste my time buying a complete turbo package as I had various turbos already, so I purchased a roller bearing turbo core. I fitted up a Frankenstein of a turbo and I haven't had a problem since! I recommend to people if their turbo is shat it's self, find out the specs on wheels housings (even purchase upsized housing to "upgrade" the turbo) and find a roller bearing core and put it together yourself? Honestly people make out like it's big and scary and really there is stuff all to a turbo?

Whats to compare each has its own pros and cons opposite to each other