Hi - sorry for the late reply! I charge £135 for my set up which includes new nut, new strings and precision fret levelling as seen in my videos. I have 100% no loss, no damage record on well over 1500 courier sends with my packaging approach and Parcelforce so the risk of loss or damage is negligible if you get the packaging right. I do most of my work via courier; if you're interested in discussing, please email me at samdeeks@gmail.com.

Actually I noticed the contrary; the Epis I’ve had have a grayish tone to the rosewood (or whatever Asian equivalent they use). Now I notice browner wood for the fingerboards.

this fretboard looks like cheap maple.. a rosewood would make it look so much better.. they call therse sheraton pro but not as good as a sheraton too.. i would of atleast expected a finger board and rosebood or even ebony fretboard..... the gold finish looks a bit to much like 24k and will wear off so fast its incredible, then they look crap.

Hi thanks for the kind feedback! My eBook '5 Steps to Guitar Set up Heaven' covers how to make and use the legendary 'Banana' fret levelling technique you're referring to - all with zero- or low-cost tools. You can find out about it here (plus how to buy direct from me if you like): facebook.com/relovedguitars/posts/pfbid0dHJrjwxxRtFcPCGJTvXkBwoReTtoEPxQNq3xKEErD5vivdzftv9vhFfd5gXSVPq9l The little nuts are brass dome nuts; just need to fit between the strings and the tops be above the stirngs (and all be the same size). The technique is very elegant and effective - takes time to get really good at it. I've been doing it this way for about 8 years now and I certainly wouldn't do it any other way. I've also built up a load of experience of 'reading' what the tool is telling me about the condition of the neck.

Hi PB Usually first step is to reverse the saddle blocks on the strings that won't reach intonation (assuming that to do so would free up another 2-3mm intonation travel). Failing that I would replace the TOM bridge with a roller bridge as these type of TOM bridges usually have greater front-to-back saddle travel.

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars Thanks Sam for your quick reply and great suggestions. I have learned a lot from watching your work and the comments you make along the way. .

There’s no ‘true’ way - people tend to place the screws facing whichever way gives easier access for assisting the saddles for intonation. For some people that’s with the screws facing the nut, for others they’re facing the stop-bar.

I think it came from G&W luthier supplies in Portugal - the product is ‘Rhynostick’

@@SamDeeksRelovedGuitars thank you Sam much appreciated

Hi Robert... there's no 'bridge height' that makes any sense as what we're concerned about is the playing action of the strings over 12th (or I prefer last) fret. Many guitars of the same model can have slightly variations in the neck fit angle which changes how high the bridge eventually sits to get the action we want. Personally, on electric guitars my target action is as follows: neck relief 0.2mm, last fret action 1.5 low E last fret, 1.2mm high E last fret and 0.3mm 1st fret action on all strings. This is a target that I know from experience can be set with careful fret levelling on most electric guitars with radii of 9.5" and above. Tighter radii (i.e. 7.25") require a slightly higher playing action to avoid choke-outs on bends. If you're looking for a low action, the bridge height will be constrained by the uneven frets on your neck (and unless they've been very carefully levelled in the past they will be more or less uneven, regardless of the brand or price point of the guitar). Most inexperienced owners lower the bridge until the strings buzz unbearably and then back off a bit - and then live with it. You don't have to be constrained by those uneven frets but the only way to overcome those constraints is by levelling.

Hi Neil I do but at a price i.e. to make it worth doing for me. For the price I pre-shape it exactly for your guitar (for which I need various measurements) so that it will be a 'drop-in' replacement. Contact me at samdeeks@gmail.com to discuss further, many thanks.

Because no ‘filings’ get on the body or the pickups. There is only dust from fret levelling and that wipes off easily. I’ve been doing this 8 years and it just isn’t a problem :-)

because he is lazy and dont care..

They’re good as Sacrificial strings though for use in the set up process. Having said that a friend of mine gigs with them, 1 set per gig and he says they work fine for him.