Thank You!!!! After almost 3 years without cruise control, speedometer, and 4 warning lights on my Saab is fixed!!!! This was a repair job that I could do myself thanks to your video. BBA rebuilt my module and I reinstalled it, only took 6 days to receive, repair and ship back to me. I highly recommend BBA. ERIC THANK YOU!!!!! THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!!

We had the same problem on our 2001 9-5 and our garage totally let us down so we had to pick up our car unrepaired. Your video was a great encouragement and guidance to tackle the problem ourselves and to fix it. Apparently the mass cable within the ABS control unit was broken - according to BBA Reman the most frequent fault of this series. Being pretty unexperienced in car DIY, we took about an hour and a half to take the control unit out - partly because in some steps you said "... and then this comes off" and we needed a while to figure out how. Still - an hour and a half was less than two wasted trips to our garage and back for taking the car there and fetching it again - so whenever anything else crops up on our car, we'll first check if you have a solution on offer. A big Thank You from Berlin, Germany!

I have a 1999 Saab 9-5 that I had to remove the ABS Module Note 1 : the Power Distribution box has a 3rd 10mm nut on left that connects the support brace Note 2: The power distribution box may have 2 fastener posts on the left for the + battery cable that need to be snipped to allow it to be moved out of the way Note 3: The electrical cable on the bottom of the module has 2 wires that pass through a plastic fastener on the bottom Note 4: my battery tray had a 5th fastening nut which anchored it to the heavy cable of the PDB A list of tools you will need (including power distribution box movement): Small flat head screwdriver (for freeing the various electrical cable attachments) 10mm wrench with ratchet side (for battery tray & fastening nut & pdb) 13mm wrench with ratchet (for battery cables) Small pliers with a bent tip (for easy gentle movement of the ABS Module sliding clasp) Snips or small scissors (for cutting battery cable fasteners on Power distribution box if needed) Socket wrench with: 10mm socket (for battery tray & power distribution) 13mm deep socket (for battery tray fastener) 10-20" Socket wrench extension for batter tray fastener removal (You can do it with a small socket wrench with the deep socket but it is tight & takes time) The fastening bolt is long so you will need a deep socket. Important: TORX 20 Screwdriver with a thin shaft of about 3-4" or socket wrench with a thin extension for a Torx 20 Socket ** Screwdriver worked better as the bottom 4 screws require a long thin shaft to get in there

Yep. Exact same problem, similar Bosch part. I actually popped my Volvo one off at one point, cut it open with a hacksaw, found the broken solders and fixed them. It worked perfectly from there on out. Not bad for a free fix. No problems with my Saab yet, but I have confidence that I'd at least try the DIY fix first.

I just did mine. Your video was super helpful. I did remove the fuse box fasteners and lifted it. Made accessing the torx fasteners much easier. I used BBA Reman and all the lights are off. All systems GO!

Good points about battery hold downs, re-connecting terminals, and cleaning. I often replace batteries during my work, and everything I know affirms what you said.

Eric, you are a pretty swell guy. It takes a lot of patience to diagnose/repair a car. Videotaping only adds time to the work. Keep up the great work. Lots of people appreciate you. And oh yeah, these are a love/hate relationship for sure!

00:28 That smile! I missed that. Good to see, that you're feeling better or more relaxed and look more fresh, Eric. Keep on rockin' buddy!

Eric, tried this - even referenced this video so you got points with BBM thanks - worked and saved the car, was tired of fixing it

this video helped me fixes the problems with my 2001 SAAB 9-3 SE the mechanic could not find. Now I just have to find the where the wires are plugged into on the other end to get it plugged in to the ABS Module..... Thank you as Much..

As always, many thanks for a great sense of what's involved here. I'm about to send my ABS module off to BBA and your video cleared up a couple of pesky questions. Thanks again!

My mother 2000 Saab 9-5 se is having the exact same problems, I have been all over the internet looking for a solution. I'm going to try this and I will let you know how I do. Thank you for always sharing, stay dirty!!

Good job Eric. If the ecu is the problem, then the speedo is inop, check eng. comfirms no speed signal from ABS. If speedo works, then problem is poor/no signal from a wheel sensor. Std. Bosch unit fails from poor/cracked solder joint at input pin to circuit board. BBA is excellent for this and other Saab/Euro repairs; throttle bodies, alarm sirens etc. Specials on E-bay.

Excellent video in terms of both content and presentation, nice to see somebody with a professional attitude towards car servicing and repair, keep up the good work Eric, I have subscribed and will be coming back for more - big thumbs up

eric im sorry if anybody ever gives you a thumb down.... You are providing free.. awesome information... i just with there was a 1million thumbs up button.

Was just about to do this job on my E39 BMW, seems most BMWs and Audis also use this Bosche unit which all have the similar trifecta warning lights when they fail. One thing about attempting to repair the part on your own some of them are covered in a jelly which needs to be scratched off or removed with an acid. A brand new unit replacement will be prone to the same exact failure. *Note: Apparently only about 25% of these units are repairable.

The lights are a warning that the ABS and Wheel Slip Control is malfunction throwing a Check Engine code but this does not affect the running of the engine. You will still have normal braking power but whitout assistents of the ABS system.

Eric! I love when you test drive at the end. Request! Do a test drive at the end or at least a start and run. Lets hear that motor!

15:20 My only niggle is to keep the negative terminal off while securing the positive cable end to the battery. This is so you don't complete a circuit with your metal spanner if you inadvertently make contact with another metal part on the car. Great vid!

(old post was my fault for reading it out of context) 9-5s started in 97. Your 01 jetta was from 2000 basically. So there is a moderate gap in tech there. But my statement about the 900s starting in 94 and being equal still stands.

Saab's were always a rather fascinating enigma to me. It's like they were around, but I could never grasp what its identity was. What was their claim to fame? Were they a luxury brand? I'd love to hear from a Saab fan on what this brand means to them. Great video as always of course! :)

The abs unit went bad on my sister beetle(Germany made car) Took the abs control unit out and and removed the cover the protects the circuit board. Re-solder the power and ground joints including anything else that didn't look good and it work good after that. Just too anyone that doesn't have money for a re-manufacturer or used unit. Just use the cover and RTV to seal it back up.

On more modern vehicles I would agree but on these cars it's the right amount. You only need a tech2 for the most severe of things which is uncommon and the other components greatly increase the reliability and easier diagnosis of the vehicle. Have fun trying to figure out an old carbouretted car that is having sluggish almost stalling issues with no computer. You would likely tear it all apart to learn that the needle value was ever so slightly out of adjustment.

The reason you're getting a better brake pedal feel after a few hard stops is you've built up some heat in the pads. They work much better when brought up to temperature. Even more so with pads for racing use, where they hardly work at all until they get very hot.

Great video. I have a 2002 Arc Wagon that had the same lights on (Still On ) also no speedometer/Odometer. Had the module repaired the lights stayed on but, the speedometer and the odometer started to work again.

"Turbo's are cool" Couldn't agree more with you man :) I dig their little turbo gauge on the dash there.

Another thing to recommend is always check the connectors and wiring when it comes to the diagnostic scanners not being able to communicate with the computer controllers, abs, tcm, ecu/pcm, etc..

the level of egineering in those saabs is amazing!, you have a 2001 car that has ABS, traction control, TURBO(with boost gauge), electronic dashboard(all those gauges are electronic), integrated security system.... see if you can find any other car from that era with all that....

The dash isn't electronic on a 960. The gauges still use springs and there are physical connections to the speed sensor and boost gauges for those vintage volvos.

Eric, just as a side note you can purchase a pc based tool called OP-Com and or Vaux-com for European based GM which will communicate with engine ECU and also ABS. TCS etc. This is mostly for Vauxhall and Opel models but this also works with some GM based Saab cars.

Thanks for the video! A friend of mine has one of these, interesting to see some videos on it. Interesting cars, and they are turbocharged. But they are also very strange to deal with it many aspects

The best place to get help is at the forum on my website. You can post the video right in your forum post.

FTW! I have MY02 Aero that has same issue. Weekend project. Did window green window rollers few weeks back after watching your video. Thank Eric.

Saabs. If you have one, you'll need a guy like Eric. I'm actually glad GM let them go. They over-engineered EVERYTHING, wasting GM's money. I'm sure we will see this car again when the fuel pump burns up...

the big light in the center is a warning light, that comes on whenever there's a message displayed on the radio screen such as "headlight failure" or "coolant/washer level low", etc. Also when u first start the car, that light should come on and it should say "test brake lights", at least in the automatics, in which case you just need to press the brake pedal and the light will go off!

it also had a weird problem where when idling the rpm would suddenly drop and stall if you didnt hit the gas in time. it also had other problems including the turbo failing, window issues, gas tank door issues, and the fact that it had about 160k miles.

the scanner you need for any saab to program anything saab specific is a GM Tech 2

It's great to see an abs video -- that's an area I'm not at all comfortable in.

Good choice. With new parts that need married to car add $80 or so to the bill. Rebuilt is a good choice for a lot of those parts.

Just had mine rebuilt by BBA and they have gone up to $155 shipping included. Waiting to get it back to put her back on and hope it's fixed.

Still can break sensors on the wheels, you can check what is broken with a resistor little more kilohms (1.2). Connect it to the terminals on the line instead of the sensor and start the car.

Hey Eric, here in the UK a SAAB ABS module can be coded using OP-COM as both SAAB and OPEL/VAUXHALL were part of the same family, bought by GM in 2000 and sold to the Dutch company SPIKER in 2010 So in the USA it's possible a GM dealer level scan tool may code the SAAB module.

Had identical problem on 2004 9-5. In my case, I took apart and cleaned the 2 brake switches by the pedal. Never had that problem again.

@jessy lions, these controllers have aluminum wires for main power to the controller pcb. Quite difficult to repair reliably by a diy'er. Best advise it have it done by repair shop with access to ultrasonic wirebonding equipment. If you bork up the pcb you are looking at a significant replacement cost!

Sounds like the EXACT same issue the Volvo 850, s/v/xc70 has from 96-2000 with the abs units.. It would cause the same problems Tcs light and abs light to light up and the fix was to send out the unit to be re soldered... It's so funny how they are both Swedish cars from same vintage almost with same common problems

See the ETCG1 video 'The Return of ETCG'

in high school i replaced a vacuum hose for a brake booster when i went out to test the brakes the added pressure blew out three severely rusted brake lines when testing brakes it is always a good idea to leave yourself plenty of room to stop should the brakes fail (fyi you can actually force a 77 f150 into reverse with a three on the tree to avoid getting t-bone by an 18 wheeler

They are kind of a split brand. They were both a sporty brand with their 900/9-3 brandings and a luxury brand with their 9000/9-5s. I always enjoyed their styling and it's neat to have a brand that is relatively rare and despite the preconceptions maintaining my 2 saabs has been no more expensive than maintaining my parent's saturn. Mods are the only lacking thing compared to say a more common brand like honda or fords

there are 2 o2 sensors at least ..one in front and one behind the cat ...which did you replace( ..run a fuel pump test as well) / it still sounds like a bad cat/ o2 ...maybe a timing issue

Thank you very much again man. I just drove home from work and my 2000 Saab 9-5 did this exact same thing. Now I may in fact have another issue but at least you helped narrow it down for me. I live in Syracuse, MY and I need to check my ABS sensors themselves and all the wiring before I up and have this unit rebuilt. RUST!!!! I just put on my winter tires so I worry that one of the sensors might be the issue. All I have to say is that Saab really has a hell of a way to tell you that you have an ABS issue lol. Fucking had me panicking about driving it because damn near every light was on lol.

The reason you remove the negative cable first, install it last is so that if your wrench accidentally comes in contact with the body as you undo the positive cable you will have to go to welding tips and tricks .com to improve your techniques. When you lightly set the negative cable back on before you wrench the positive you have defeated this safety step.

I should mention something else on here, another common problem with these is hot starting, starting them while they have been run for a while, if it doesn't start when hot then replace the crank position sensor and job a good un :)

I have a 2002 SAAB 9-5 Aero that I've just had the same issue with. I had the module rebuilt and it fixed the non functioning speedometer but brake/abs/esp lights are still on and abs/esp are non functional still. I took my car to have the codes read at Autozone and the only thing they came up with is completely unrelated (o2 sensor fault). Any suggestions?

My '98 Volvo had the same problem at some point, has a new ABS module now. Crazy Swedes.

Thank You!!! This fixed my 2001 9-3 for under $100 using the ebay link you gave. Also, my hot no start was fixed previously by rebuilding the automatic shifter position switch on the transmission.

SAAB Tech2 (or a GM Tech2 with SAAB software) scan tool is required I believe to program the ABS.

Well, Bosch made these for plenty of brands, audi, vw, saab, probably other ones and they were prone to failure for some years around 2000. Could be good to know I guess.

this is pretty common problem on bmw 5 series.. you can open this and look for any broken wires and solder joints but the circuit board is really small and its hard to solder it back

the big red triangle with the exclamation point means there's something on the info display you should be looking at.

Been having that issue with a friends '99 Saab 9-3 2 litre turbo, hot start, random stalls while driving. Google search pretty much stated it as a common problem and that they seem to die at about 100k on the clocks. Plus they dont throw and engine management light or store a code.

Vaux-COM or Op-COM (same thing) could work on that SAAB. It's basically a Vauxhall Vectra, so should have the same ECU etc. I got a Chinese copy of Vaux-COM for £25 on eBay and it works a treat! Reprogrammed loads of stuff.

Saab's electronics are often 'married' to the car they come from. In order for them to work, someone with GM TechII tools has to 'marry' the new part to the car. Same thing if you use used parts from another car, it has to be properly 'divorced' from the donor car.

the video was so useful to me . I'm an engineer and I have a car workshop.

I recently installed new rear shocks. Afterwards I noticed I had a lot better brake petal. The brake pads and rotors are only about 5000 miles old. Why would new shocks effect braking?

thanks very much Erick , to take you time end show us , i have this problem with my saab 9-3 al the lights are on now i have one idea...thanks..

loved the video as always; but dang; SAAB made that engine compartment a bit tight...

Please I need some help I had this problem in my car so i got a abs module from a used parts shop that "works" and i changed it out but i still have the lights but no check engine light could it be air in the brake system? or could it be a bad abs module that i got? Problems I had I would start the car no lights only check engine then i would drive and after a little the lights come on and the speedo stops working then I turn off car and start it speedo works no light only check engine then it comes on again. With the "new" abs module the ABS BRAKE and ! sign or on but no check engine.

At least now we know how to solve "One" out of thousands of problems in a SAAB

My abs is on too on my 99 9-3 but no check engine light but I've been driving it like that for years it use to turn off sometimes but then the brake peddle would kick back and the hud light would turn back on ps turbos are cool

Hey Eric. Great video. My Saab has been down for months with a bad turbo. Sitting killed the battery and when I put in a new one, the dash board lit up! Only difference for me is that the brakes also are locked up. do you think this procedure will solve that too? Thanks

Last couple of months my cousins vz commodore had a abs module problem

I resoldered the board on mine myself. It's not really that difficult. A dremel, a $12 soldering iron from radio shack, and some epoxy (to glue the cover back on) and you're all done. Something else to consider -- getting it reman'ed like this is actually BETTER than a replacement because the re-soldered joints will be far stronger and will effectively correct the manufacturing defect. If you buy a new unit, it'll have the same not-so-great solder joints that will someday break again.

When you slam on the breaks I think its pushing some air out of the system. Before I bleed breaks i always jam on em to try and get that air out

Would this work with a Saab 93 1.9 sport tid 06 that won’t rev over 3000rpm as I got a code telling me it’s manfacturer control an it’s saying my abs/tcs/esp

Thanks for the vid. Very Helpful. About to tackle the same problem on my 2002 9-3

it would be awesome if you did more saab videos

84 or 94? I'm pretty sure that platform started in 88 or 89. I had a FWD 94 Eclipse (same car) that I pulled the halfshafts out of when I did the clutch. I'm assuming that's what you're replacing. Eric has a video on 90's model Honda Accord halfshaft replacements, and it's pretty much the same as those cars. Grab a Chilton's manual for your car, I've always found those to be $20 well spent.

hey eric, you dont look as tired as normal! that whatever youre doing at the gym must be working

how come a car can start even though it has all those lights on? what are the effects of running a car with all those lights on?

Very informative videos, I Have tried to reach out to BBA remanufacting but seems they are closed permanently, post covid I'm not surprised do you have any other connections that offer the same service. My abs module throwing lights all over the cluster like in your video, any help would be appreciated.

Wait, you didn't have to reset "Check Engine" manually? I've got the same issue since yesterday on my B308. The only fault is B1705 (Faulty Speed Signal), the ABS-Sensors do give plausible signals, but the speedometer doesn't work. Guess it has to be the electronical part of the ABS-system, right?

Most modern cars have this kind of feature for at least some of their parts now. Saab was just "ahead" of the game so to speak.

Eric I am looking to replace my module (swapped car needs a manual pump versus the automatic one) do you have any videos on how to replace the module? it's a 05 subaru sti, thanks

@ericthecarguy long time viewer, thank you for everything. quick question was it confirmed that you can drive the car without the abs module? thanks again!!

How do you know that the connectors weren't simply dirty with corrosion? You unplugged them and then sent the unit off, but if it were corrosion, then just the act of unplugging the unit and then plugging back in again might have cleaned them enough to fix the issue. Perhaps the unit was fine all along? You didn't test for that, but you should have.

My truck only has one o2 sencer on the manafold and no i changed it and the cat and did a fuel test its all new

hey erick can u do a universal joint replacement pls... i have a general idea but want to be sure before i mess up

Happy to see white gloves. I can see your hands now!

very good teaching teach! loved the vid!

hi eric I just put a new stater and altinator need to fix my muffler asap and new battery but my car drove bit slowly and the engine and ring light just came on help

Hi Eric I need your help. I need to know what video you have would be the best one I could follow because I need to replace the driveaxels on my 1984 Chrysler laser.

Is this part married to the compiter in the car or could you use a replacement or junkyrad part. Also would this make the speedometer not work.

hey erick i dont think you have done this but if u get a car in that needs an inner tie rod can u pls post a video thanks

I have a Saab 9-3 2001 .. I had the abs control module replaced. Obviously I didn't have a reader to program it. so I had it fixed. I installed the module and now my speedometer works and the car went out of limp mode. But I'm still having the ABS light, TCS, and the big triangle over the speedo. Is it possible I have a bad wheel speed sensor or did I get a screwy repair to my module.

Hello I have a car I have a problem with the automatic transmission that stops working after walking 1 km I checked it on the scanner P0722 I changed the sensor and the problem remained as it came on and changed the whole transmission and the problem remained These scan results __________________________________________________________ Mechanic: Date: 30/11/2018 Car licence no: VIN: Mileage: Vehicle: Saab - 9-5 - 2001 Petrol (B235E - 2.3ltt - Trionic T7 - MT/AT - 185hp) DTC Description No fault codes Brake (ABS (Anti-lock braking system) - ABS 5.3/TC - MT/AT - TCS (Traction Control System)) DTC Description C0131 - Pressure sensor - fault or faulty C1926 - Accelerator pedal position sensor - no communication 41963 - Unknown fault code Instrument (Instrument - MIU - Main instrument) DTC Description No fault codes Instrument (Instrument - SID - Info display) DTC Description No fault codes Climate (Climate control - ACC) DTC Description B2406 - Air distribution valve B2495 - Mixing damper motor - (left) Fault codes Mechanic: Date: 30/11/2018 Car licence no: VIN: Mileage: Vehicle: Saab - 9-5 - 2001 Delphi DS150E (New VCI) | 2014 Release 2 (2.14.2.2) 1 Gearbox (Gearbox - Diagnose) (after last fault code deletion) DTC Description P0722 - Output rpm signal - signal missing or faulty Gearbox (Gearbox - Diagnose) DTC Description No fault codes No fault codes P0722 - Output rpm signal - signal missing or faulty Immobiliser (Immobiliser - TWICE - Burglar alarm) DTC Description B1210 - Seatbelt warning lamp - interruption or short circuit to ground Restraints (Airbag - Diagnose - With passenger airbag) DTC Description No fault codes Multifunction (Central electronics - DICE) DTC Description No fault codes Multifunction (Central electronics - TWICE - No burglar alarm) DTC Description B1210 - Seatbelt warning lamp - interruption or short circuit to ground Service Light Reset (SLR) (Reset service - Diagnostic reset (Recall service message) - Info display) DTC Description No fault codes

i want to know would it be a good thing to do and test the abs if the car dose not drive very much and to it is a 2002 ford excursion and to is there any way to keep the battery up or help them out do to we do not use the car very much and the car sometimes still few weeks

BBA is insolvent. Other suggestions?

When the u had this problem did your car get any slower like a limp mode type of thing? Cuz i have that problem

Hey Eric, I had the same issue in my 2002 Aero manual and I have repaired the ABS module however I still have TCS and brake controls on. Do you have any idea what the problem might be? Many thanks for you videos and support :)

Really great video Eric, thank you! I'll be doing this one on my Saab soon.