I had all the codes for the failed EVAP canister after watching this I tapped the motor with a hammer on the steel band , The canister is working no codes and I passed emissions !! THANKS !!!!

So to add what i have learned here in Canada is that we have two types of fuel. One is a winter fuel for cold climate which contains more butane component and one is a summer fuel that has less butane and an additive that lowers the evaporation rate in a hotter climate. Now I drive an awd Suv in the winter and store it in the garage over summer and drive a toyota van in the summer set up like a camper. After the second summer I went to drive the awd suv and the engine light came on once i switched over and it turned out the evap cannister was fubared . So unnoticed to me at the time , I had filled the winter car with winter fuel before storage in the warm garage and all the butane in the fuel was now in the evap cannister. Now i just run the car empty as those cannisters are not cheap and neither is the reinstall. Had to learn and figure this out the hard way.

So I had the codes, p043e p043f p2401 p2402 p249. I didn’t want to spend 500.00 on a new unit. So I tapped the motor while car was running and the motor started working 😂. Thanks man. Love the videos keep up the good work

Love those "No user serviceable parts inside" units. Enjoyed the disassembly and exploration

Your setup is actually better for the channel because you show the DIY way. Not every home mechanic will have a powerprobe

Most impressive "tear-down" 1 Thank You! Perhaps ONE WORD sums up far too many of our Government-Mandated "Emissions" Rules. "OVERKILL" Yes! Other posters here have nailed it, too. Just that little "Control Module" is ~$200 ... if it is even available. And the dealers "Jes Luv it Dude!" Near $1,000 to replace the EVAP Canister at the local Lexus Dealer. *** ASIDE: *** I do not know if it is possible for you to do so, but as an avid DIYer with a "near-pristine" 2003 Lexus RX300 SUV, I would love to have you tell us the "Book Time" for the repairs you do ... and an approximate price for an OEM replacement part. I keep a spreadsheet for my own SUV and the dealer cost (parts & labor) vs my ow repair / service is about 6:1. Back to OVERKILL, another example is the HEATER WIRE inside an Air/Fuel or Oxygen Sensors. They only save a few SECONDS of "Warm-Up" pollution ... but they basically function as limited-life, self-destructing fuses. Once bad, complex parts become a high-profit items for parts manufacturers, dealers and repair shops. All for perhaps 0.001% "Improvement" for the environment. Another take on insane regulation creating unneeded complexity is the Ethanol in Vehicle Gas. It does NOT help the environment (when one considers the "Fuel and other "Input Costs at the farm growing corn. It just adds more complexity, plus more wear and tear to our vehicles. (All because "Congress" was "encouraged" by lobbyists ... to help modern "Farmers" .... AKA Big Agra ... growing corn that not even large animals can eat) while concurrently stripping our lands of natural nutrients. My apology for the rant. Best to all, John in the NW

I wish more KZfaq star mechanics would take apart broken stuff like that, so we could see what went wrong inside parts.

Viewers can sometimes fall into a trap of thinking every video uploaded by a mechanic is a "how to" video. This one is not - or does not appear to be - but is, nonetheless, useful for seeing how parts fail.

To add a bit of context to this video, I can explain a little bit about how that leak detection pump works, having had to diagnose them. Inside that pump is a calibrated leak, called a reference orifice. If I recall correctly, it's a 0.020" leak. The computer will run the pump against that reference orifice and watch the pressure sensor that is also built into it. It will see what the pressure (vacuum) readings are when it pumps against the 0.020" leak. That sets it's baseline for the leak test since the system's threshold is that is has to hold tighter than 0.020" leak. Then it will close off the 0.020" reference orifice and pump against the fuel tank vapor system and watch the pressure sensor. If it pulls the same or more vacuum than it did when pumping against the reference orifice then it assumes the system has less than a 0.020" leak and it passes the evap leak test. If it pulls less vacuum then it it fails the leak test. It does a few other tests, including watching rate of decay, as well, but essentially this is how it works. It also does this reference orifice test after it does the leak test to compare the reference orfice checks to make sure the pump itself is working correctly, i.e. the reference orifice testresults are consistent. You can actualy use a scan tool to watch it do these tests. Once you understand how it works, you can watch the tool do the tests, see the results and know how it's failing. The last one I worked on had a failing motor, just like this one and the reference orfice test at the end had a different reading then the reference orifice test at the beginning of the leak test routine. Pretty neat system...except that the the canister assembly with the pump is usually $7-800.

I really enjoy your videos, from the camera shot quality to the way you explain things, just a joy to watch. With this video, I, too, was like a kid in a candy store waiting to see what, if anything, was wrong with the pump. From a different video that you did, I learned from you your trick of using a pick to help loosen connectors and I want to thank you for that. It has really helped me. My Tacoma threw out a loss of vacuum code today and thankfully, it was just that the gas cap was screwed on crooked and not seated, but I still wanted to come learn about that system and you certainly did not disappoint! Thank you!

Outstanding video Peter! Very detailed and so interesting! I love all of your videos but this is my favorite one yet! Keep up the great work my friend!

Since the motor is not brushless, there is likely a dead spot between one of the brushes and the armature contacts. It seems to work now, but the chance of the motor stopping on that dead spot if reinstalled is real.

It's a super fantastic video! I tapped the canister part (with motor in it) on my 2009 Camry with a stick and the five Evap codes (P043e, P043f, P2401, P2402, P2419) are gone. Driving it for two days and no codes are pending. The codes used to come back in half an hour after clearing before. I think if I would start the car over winter more often I might not get the codes at all. Thank you ToyotaMaintenance! Just saved $1400 in Canada.

Just went thru a series of EVAP canister codes on my 2001 Tacoma, replaced gas cap & EVAP hose/canister, cleaned PCV valve & it passed emissions - fingers crossed for no more codes ($650!) . . . as it was intermittent before to begin with. My EVAP replacement was under the hood though, not under the vehicle (there are 2, actually, one near gas tank & 1 under the hood). Appreciate the fun, finding out video !!!

Sometimes the Scion charcoal canisters are cheaper and fit the regular toyota cars. I replaced one on a Rav4 with one from a Scion XB. The Rav4 one was 600 dollars.... the Scion was 250. Transfer over the mounting bracket and you're good. Worked perfectly.

Awesome! Thanks for taking it apart and diagnosing it. Now I understand what is happening in the mystery box. One of the commentators explained the theory. Thanks all.

Very interesting video. I love taking stuff like this apart to see why it failed. Sometimes you can actually fix it too! Although I wouldn't reinstall this part on the customers vehicle, I'd keep it around. It might come in handy in a pinch someday 👍

I just replaced the canister on my 99 ES300. Thanks for showing this video ...

Watching this video solved a problem I have had for over a year. Thank you!

Maybe a stuck vane or two. Thank you for your patience and being curious.

Wow I really got into that video very detailed and I liked that you took us through each step another great 👍 video my friend

You’re brilliant at presenting. Excellent fault-finding my man. I’ll never replace one of these like ever lol but great to know!

I have a 2005 Sion that had an EVAP code. The replacement canister unit (not a Toyota unit) cost me $300. Paying someone to attempt a repair probably would have exceeded that cost. Knowing that a good smack from hammer, after reading a viewers response, might have fixed the problem makes me a little sad. I'll have to use the gentle hammer technique to fix problems in the future. 😊 I enjoy and benefit from your videos.

Brilliant, a stuck motor just needed some minor persuasion, have the same issue, purchased a used part on eBay, without the cannister. Will install soon. Thanks

Thanks for another enjoyable wideo. Like a lot of electric motors, a couple taps while giving voltage may have jostled it awake.

Thanks for this video. It's very interesting and helpful!

Fantastic video very interesting. Now time to get me some german sauerkraut from Aldes

The design of the EVAP "pump" is very similar in design to the type of unit found in a side-by-side refrigerator freezer. The actuator opens a gate that controls the flow of air from the freezer into the refrigerated compartment. When one side of the refrigerator "fails" with the freezer working, it is because of this unit. The servo inside (as in this you tube) freezes over time and will not open the gate. By the way, If this happens to your refrigerator, the assembly can be replaced by the average guy. Diagnosing the problem was the more difficult stage of the repair. You likely will not need to replace the entire 'frige if the freezer side is functioning. This is a common problem with side-by-sides. Otherwise, very interesting the similarities between the two.

in this pump, the rotor has 4 graphite vanes. they wear out and can get stuck and the pump no longer turns

Great job. Keep up the good work.

So informative on both ends in the video and comments. Greatly appreciative. I need to check the function of mine and put fielectric grease on connections. Is there a way to clean the filter?

Good Afternoon Peter, What Did You Use As A Power Source To Get The Motor To Move?

Amazing. You fixed it! Just by opening it. Hopefully you can keep the parts and the next time that happens and the customer can't afford it, you can help someone until they have the money to change it the right way. Some poor college student or something.

Fantastic video my friend!

Your channel is soo useful!!

If you went into the electric motor you would've found that the commutator inside was dirty and gunky. The same thing happens with the door lock actuator motor. Chances are it will get stuck again but if you clean it then it will work like new for many more years.

Thanks for the tips 👏👍🙏

Great Video, I am about to replace the cannister in my 2011 corolla and need to remove the 2 brackets on a cannister thats damaged and cant seem to find a socket that fits the bracket bolts. do you know what size socket is required?

I love tearing things apart like this. I wish maybe a little more explanation of function of the pieces. At first I thought this was the bypass VSV but an electric motor? Sometimes aged electric motors need a tap to get turning. Maybe the frustrated beating of my 2002 Tacoma EVAP canister with 280k miles really did fix it! That was after fixing verifiable problems though.

great video, thanks!

So what code do you get if the vacuum pump motor does not turn?

enjoy watching your videos, question: 2011 tacoma sluggish went driving at about 60 miles, code 456 (Evap small leak), test smoke shows smoke coming from a tube that is attach to gas filler. OEM cap was replace. any advise. Thanks

Great Video! I have a 2000 Camry 4 cylinder and I get a "Check Engine Light". Scan tool indicates : "EVAP Small Leak" I put a new gas cap on and clicked it and then after a week or so the Check Engine light comes back with the same code? Can the car run without this system ? I know it won't pass emissions test, but I'm just curious?

What camcorder you used ? Does it have micro zoom ?

very interesting video... thanks for share this video

That canister is huge! The canister on my 04 GS300 is about the size of 6 pack can of sodas.

👍thanks for sharing.

Daughters 2011 corolla has had cats, O2 sensors vent valve , purge valve and now they wanna replace this part. All this for code P0455. Im betting that the motor will get hot and stop running after long use. It list at 200-400$ us. I found one in the scrap yard and am going to try it before letting her spend the money.will give u an update on how it comes out . Thanks for the video.

Nice work!

very interesting.

Great video.

Lost count ov how many rollover fill valves located on there gas tanks top that develop a cracks in there seams setting.off small leak ,flow codes etc . The top of it has line going to the filler neck. The valves ,diagrams in the older cannisters just just stick with age.. Good luck !!

Seems like that charcoal canister just took a sick day and stopped working. Lol😁🇨🇦👍

So my check engine light just came on & the dealer says I have to replace the evap canister. I’m curious, can this be repaired or do you have to buy a whole new canister? I have an 03 Corolla with 150,000 miles..

I have a p2420 code should I just change this valve then?

This is true and the water ethanol brings certainly doesn't help. Peter: the next time you have a sticky motor or solenoid, give it a shot of LPS2 and it will probably be reborn.

Thanks brother

Have a 06 Sentra and been stuck with code p0448 for 2 years took it two mechanics and change parts but code still pops up not sure what to do next

This would fix a P0420 low threshold??? I have a 2006 RAV4 that I had done just about everything on it and can’t come up with why it would go out would a exhaust leak test help me identify the issue I’m tired of taking to the shop every time they throw a new part at it and they can’t give me a good answer on what the problem really is 😞

What are the part numbers on the small dc motor?

Where is your shop located

So why was not just the faulty part replaced instead of the whole contraption?

I currently have a P0446 code on my 99 es300. I've replaced all of the vacuum switching valves that are on top of the engine as their plastic nipples that connect to the rubber hoses were brittle, one was broken completely causing a vacuum leak. I also replaced the valve next to the charcoal cannister as well as a few of the evap hoses. The code still persists. Fortunately I'm not in a state with an emissions test so I have been living with it. I'm wondering if my issue is the same as the one shown in this video. 🤔

Wonderful

I put a new canister in my 2012 GMC sierra 1500 with a 5.3 and a new solenoid and I still can’t get gas in soon as I hook it up to the charcoal filter from the solenoid. I can’t put gas in if I unhook it from the jack filter I can put gas in, so I just don’t know what to do

Is this the 9th, 10th gen? This is common on those gens

I have a 2015 Tundra and am getting P0455 and P0441. I have replaced the pcv valve and solenoid but that did not help. Any thoughts on what it could be?

Hi! I'm trying to understand this evap canister a little better. At around 3:20-3:25, he disconnects a small hose attached to the pump, but also a circular, disc-shaped part of the canister. Does anyone know what is inside that disc-looking thing?

Any of these emission related parts are very expensive. I’ve seen many aftermarket parts fail soon after installation. The quality is simply not there…

Nice video sir

So basically take it apart, clean it, assemble and done ?

My 2000 corolla shakes when I accelerate too quickly and it will stop accelerating. I have to let off the pedal so it will stop. Then I can accelerate again slowly. I wonder if this is the problem. I've cleaned and replaced about everything else up top on the intake side with no difference. Otherwise I was thinking clogged exhaust.

This video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work. WOW very interesting 1st class very kool great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great

super vid.

👍👍👍👍good video

So you just needed a new Wayne pump?

Lumping all of this stuff into one part, and making it hard to access, it what I call evil engineering.

I dont get it. It looked like it was working? soooo, if it ain't broke...?

The evap canister has absolutly no effect on how the engine runs, if you are having performance issues with rough idle or acceleration/hesitation issues, it is NOT caused by the evap canister. You will however get a check engine light and the car will not pass emmisions testing.

Those rotor vane pumps jam up all the time, they are the same as EFI pumps. Hit it with 18V of and on in very short bursts and they can free themselves. These are the bane of EFI boat owners as they sit in fuel for months without turning and fail to turn when the boat owner wants to run them.

I need the part at the very right side of the canister in this video with the 2 hoses attached to it. Is it a part that I can get separately? If so does anyone have a part number or know the name of the part.

Just had my charcoal canister replaced in my sequoia. There was condensation in it

como puedo contactarlo

My kind of ASMR!

👍👍👍👍🙏

So in theory it probably just had a bad connection somewhere and just need to b gone through and cleaned up and I'm good to go wow

Used as a secondary fuel container.

Are you Dexter from Dexter's Laboratory? 😆

so maybe if you tap the motor unit with a hammer you will free up the motor?

Feeling your car up. And the pump clicks off. Do not put no more in. All right will make these go bad

How did you know the unit was bad to begin with ??

Wonder wat his nationality is ?

Looks like Toyota sold you a complete assembly, instead of just the Denso electrical part.

Yay the bob ross of toyotas!

That’s a huge canister for a Corolla

Bro sound like Sherk 😂

Problem is that repairing a unit like this is time consuming, cheaper to just put another unit in the car. This could possibly be re-used in another car.

it’s topping off the gas destroys them.

Can you just bypass a canister

The speed of the motor..is to slow.