So true

Kai Lenny is more stronger IMO? 🧐

@@teemuahonen6453 kai, so sorry for saying this mate but there is nothing stronger than Kai's balls, I mean I've heard of steel balls but this guy charges and has no fear! The mount isn't as strong as this man! Thank God Kai! Keep saying that because our Creator is in control of your worst situations brother.. peace and God bless.. your footage over the past 48hrs is making me want to come out of retirement haha not that I am any kind of professional! Try say

Great point. 🤙🤙🤙

WORDS

Hey, I'm just an ukrainian guy and I understand that our demands are too high for other countries which already have their own problems to deal with. So feel free to stop giving us so many precious resources as they are being wasted by us without achieving much. Thank you and Slave Ukraine! 🇺🇦

Let it be said!!!

life jacket, ever heard of ?

you gotta be in some shape

Surfers don’t strike me as particularly ‘in shape’ as far as athletes go. They’re light and scrawny, that’s about it

They might’ve collided if he’d lost focus, and that could’ve been bad. Especially with how much pull those waves probably had.

Basic rule of surfing, person closest to the breaking part of the wave has right of way. Only one person can surf a wave at a time, especially big waves like these.

That was not a wipeout, the other guy was taking himself out of the way because he was in an "illegal" takeover. As @fleuger99 here says, basic surf rule

I think his friend intentionally jumped off so they don't collide.

Billy almost took his fucking head off. Getting cranked in the head by someone else’s board is serious on a small day, here it could very easily kill you.

@Mike H he said videography

@Mike H bruh what? That has nothing to do with the comment

What can is he using?

2:40 look up carrefuly

@@jochaldo8076 it actually does have everything to do with his comment. The helicopter, when it shows up, has a front mounted camera on a gimbal. From the looks of it probably a Shotover brand setup, but their is a number of competitors our there. I'd wager that cameras/gimbal setup (not including the helicopter) is worth in the range of $250k and is there for exclusive purpose of filming professional surfers. That said, the original comment kinda misses the point in making the comparison between a GoPro & a rig like that. Those two separate kinds of shots are tools with different functional goals intended for different purposes. Of course a helicopter shot from a distance isn't supposed to make things feel personal. It's aimed to give a sense of scale & perspective. That's a whole separate tangent though. In any case, the helicopter comment is relevant. The helicopter is there to film.

Yes!!!!

The shot on IPhone meme music would probably make this worse ngl.

I hate music added to these videos

This isnt really a normal surf video...

Hundred percent

That Sir is absolutely true! Greatest respect for these boys!!

Good on you for including the gals, courage and love of the ocean and it’s gifts is not gender specific 🤙🏽

Some activities people will only be able to appreciate once they tried them self. I don’t know that either yet, because I didn’t try it so far.

I think most people DO realize how skilled they are. I've never come across anyone who thought "whatever that's easy"

It looks ridiculously difficult.

Hi coc person

Funny to find you here

Me too

ahaha yeah me tooo!!! :P

Yeah-

Its like watching complete chaos unfold behind a blissful calm creating a beautiful contradiction of peace and explosion to from theae beautiful clips

Language please :)

@@Sheen023 shut up

911 likes 😫

No lie

Been in the water since 7, stopped a few years ago, so around thirty years experience.. watching these Hawaiian Living Legends makes me want to come out of retirement bro

I surf with many over 60 guys, some on short boards still. Get back out there 🤙

I didn't start surfing till I was 54 after I got both hips replaced. It was great therapy for my hips. My only regret is I didn't start 45 years ago!!

@michalthomas you saw Maui when it was raw bro. I moved to Maui in 88, still here. It has evolved so much it's unreal. Way too many surfers now...lol. I learned real quick i have limits in the water here that first winter. Haha....

@@jwqc1 That's my plan. In Puerto Rico where I was born! Time is running out for the short board.

It's honestly the hardest sport I've tried. It takes so long to learn how to position yourself out there I can only imagine how hard 10 to 15 ft swells are. I grew up a skater so riding was never my issue but I got flattened many times getting up early just like the guy that fell behind him.

@@christopherlarose2770 yep, some wipeouts can be brutal

Nice username btw ;)

@@samo917 thanks man! 😃🤙🏼

I started surfing in high school in 1964 and surfed actively until I was 52 and living in Peru. My back got too bad and I had to quit. I still love it...

Getting in the "green room" is an experience that can only be had. Its impossible to explain.... but it is a magical and wonderous thing.

The truth is sharks rarely attack humans. Along the Californian coast thousands of sharks live. They learned Asia means death. So they avoid Asia and stay close to America. Lots of drone footage shows pods of 9 sharks swimming right past humans and stingrays ignoring them. Sharks aren't mindless eating monsters. You are actually in more danger near a dolphin, which are awful. Sharks can literally be friends with any kind of shark, hammerhead, bullshark, tiger sharks and my favorite animals the great whites. They hang out in large groups it's a survival method. In the ocean if a shark senses a bigger shark they will go to it. Unlike many animals in the world a shark would not harm another shark coming towards it, even if it is a different type of shark. This is crazy because most other predators will kill on sight. All wild cat species kill the young and even the adults. Tigers and lions will fight if they meet and cheetahs are near extinct because humans pushed them out of their safe habitats and into lion, leopard and other territory. Sharks don't do this. Sharks are so kind to each other. There is video of sharks swimming up to sharks that had their fins cut off for Asia shark fin soaps and they are seen trying to help the drowning sharks. Even with the vast deaths humans caused to sharks we can actually be in the water with them and many would leave us allow. I've actually pet sharks before and despite movies like jaws they are very sweet. Most all shark Attacks are a case of mistaken identity. This is why shark attack victims often have one bite would and wouldn't completely eaten. However, marine biologist believe that sharks have realized the way humans look in the water and avoid. Not only are we really boney but many sharks that have biten a human resulted in massive hunts with lots of sharks dying from one mistake. Experts have seen sharks get freaked out upon spotting a human and driving deeper and going far away.

@@Nicole-kt5qf Wow. Sounds like you’ve watched lots of videos on lots of animals! But it also sounds you don’t really know the subjects you’re talking about. Many things you stated are generalizations, exaggerations or downright wrong,, but you sound nice. Have a great day! ☀️

@@Nicole-kt5qf so off the back of ur comment will you come cage diving with shark with me in South Africa as none of my family are brave enough I can’t think of a more breathtaking experience ❤❤🦈🦈🦈

Nope, you just described passion.

@Joshua Jason Karl yes we get it stop being boring now

Yeah that's an Asphalt 9 moment for sure :)

@Joshua Jason Karl pretty sure Kai Lenny knows what he’s doing man

it was the other dude that dropped in.. peahi breaks right>>> (mostly ) .. the wave he took was a right. ...the guy is behind him on the left in the vid.. that means kai was deeper and had the right of way

Absolutely hilarious..........burst out laughing!!. Definite screenshot at 1m28s.

You’ve more chance of winning the lottery than getting attacked by a shark

The beatings I've taken on waves that were only 9 feet on the faces tells me I don't have any business even watching this video...

@@matthewb8229 still pretty big

Yeah man, an hour at Leo Carrillo and I'm done for

Yeah man, an hour at Leo Carrillo and I'm done for

Man, living in a city, you look at this and think "wow, this looks hella fun, i wanna try". So I got to Newquay, Cornwall (apparent home of surfing) with my bodyboard, and get ptsd from getting drowned in a wave 1.5x taller then me....I know the feeling...

Wow that’s amazing, thank you for sharing your story.

Wow... What an amazing experience you got there...

Not a good experience but it left you with a great story and a clear understanding of the power of the sea. When I was the fittest I have ever been I got caught in a rip on manly beach Sydney with around 30 swimmers. The 5 life savers were so busy they came past me 4 times and told me keep doing what your doing and I actually swam myself back to shore. I lay on beach and just thought about how weak a human really is and how I would ,100% have given up without their encouraging me.

DMT is secreted by the Pineal Gland, and people often use it to feel high. Apparently it is one of the most spiritually influential experiences of one's life.

Lol i smoke dmt

Or just ever

😭 The truth.

Thank you.

100% lol

Ya they have to cgi everything, plus the all the shitty human beings we call actors.

2:32 is also an incredible shot, looks like he pushes the wave up with his hands There's also a chopper in the shot towards the end

From 4:00 is some fantasy thing

Yeah lmao I almost drowned once because of that cause the set was insanely long

@@tygardner2050 only thing that kept me from drowning once was the set was about 3 maybe 4 waves...i gotta reprieve

You understand this is 30ft jaws right?

My very first time surfing I got worked hard. Slammed 3 or 4 times in a row. Waves were only like 8 to 10 feet (yeah, I was in the Wrong place for a newbie when things shifted) and I was terrified!

I got stuck in that with heavy surfer traffic it was terrible I couldn't get out of their way or away from the waves finally another surfer pulled me out

Yea know how the wave, did he jump off it so it wouldn't be as much impact, cause he turn, seen and jumped off. Just asking cause what if I stayed on 🙃 Shucks that seem horrible to come across

Is this that famous spot in Hawaii?

I'm confused then, what was the "worst nightmare"? All i saw was a surfer surfing...

They aren't scary until they are...

sharks arent scary, they are deadly

Haha it really is

Make it 1 for me 😂🙈

Lol same

Lmao same

@@babytronlover51 lol

Heck, 1 inch

Hey man! Highly recommend checking out “AccesSurf”, they are a non profit Adaptive Surfing program that specializes in taking people with disabilities out surfing. I’ve volunteered with them a few times, they are awesome. There are other programs around the US as well but I know these guys the best. So, you can do it! :) let me know if you find them

I dont find it incredible its just stupid. I prefer to stay safe and not be sharkfood.

@@dvb8637 just leave.. you are a coward and nothing more. Some people are simply more adventurous. And keep in mind that adventurous people advanced the human species by seeking out new land, establishing maritime routes that would lead to trade between different parts of the world etc. And their descendants inherited that lack of fear for dangerous activities. End of day, people can do what they want with their own lives as long as they're not harming anyone. And most surfers don't end up shark food either so that's that. I think inexperienced tourists usually end up getting attacked by sharks. Lastly, you replying to this person to say this is disrespectful. They are admiring something they want to do but can't, and expressing their gratitude for the video. Your opinion is unwanted and your reply uncalled for. Let them enjoy their dream in the only way they can, don't be so insensitive.

@@fabiana7157 people can do what they want like comment on videos and say what they want, opinions are not shared because they are wanted they are shared because of the freedom to do so, original comment has no more value then the second, u just dont agree, u dont need to be mad about it, its okay to disagree, u don't need to call names come blazing, if u wanna show maturity dont be so aggressive, their comment was safer than yours was, which makes you saying what u did while doing the opposite, ironic lol notice their wording, i and i, you said statements as absolute facts, isnt that a bit hypocritical if ur calling someone out for being rude in ur opinion but ur too immature to say its just ur opinion, like they clearly formulated it to be, regardless of the content, in terms of sharing and expressing an opinion in a mature way, they went about it better than u did

@@fabiana7157 @Dvb very well put fab, way to show his ignorance and stupidity while simultaneously showing your own class and understanding of why people like us love to do what we do, some people are just frustrated with their inability to go outside their comfort zones

This is the kind of thing I wanna try but scared of

It’s a very rare pic for any photographer

Jaws waves are scarier than a shark

@@nofood1 I didn’t say it wasn’t

Hahaha, me

@@vaniaramsawack-wu9333 I’m pretty sure every surfer thought the opposite

Not me.

Blue

It’s just the sky hunts.

@@branflakee4257 lol 😂

Blue

And we’re not noticing the fact he is on a 30 foot wave

That's my nightmare man. I can only guess that it must've not been your time yet.

That’s crazy

You also chose shark feeding time to go out and do that😬. I’m glad you’re safe man!

I had similar experiences. I was in 7-10’ faces at 4 mile in Santa Cruz Ca. and the waves were closing out the cove on me while I was learning. My “friends” who talked me into going with them laughed on the beach while I struggled to stay alive. I only lived through it because I was smart enough not to panic and stopped fighting the waves and conserved my strength and focused on my breathing. I knew the waves couldn’t hurt me but that I surely would drown if I passed out. By the time I got to the beach I was too weak to crawl out of the water. People on the beach ran out to pull me out of the water. I was 21 and in phenomenal shape, but had no clue what I was doing and my “friends” thought it was more fun to watch me drown than to teach me to surf.

@@fleebin2794 Great friends you got there...

Agree,absolutely agree

Same. I want to surf so bad, but I’m not a strong swimmer. I’ll stick to surfing the concrete.

@@shuuuuushhshs2698 amen 🙏

You wouldn't be able to paddle there! HAHAHA (Me neither)

Everytime I stumble across a surfing video, I find myself just watching in awe. I inevitably get to the point where I'm thinking "white people- God bless'em, the way they get bored just livin. What will they think of next? One thing you can be sure of- it'll kill ya." 🤣 Get down, white people, do y'all thang- surf it, skate it, spelunk it, climb it, shoot it, ski it, jump out of it, bungee off of it, put on one of those gliding suits and fly around it- yes, white folks do that shit! I am here for it! 👍 I'll just be right back here in the cut, safe and sound, warm and dry, not being able to relate, despite bein half white myself 🤣. I will never get tired of watching this shit, and I will never stop thinking that y'all have got to be the craziest people on this planet 🙆 🙌🙌🙌

kai balls r stronger

nothing wokey here.... :-)

You alright bro?

I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or not.

@@sammywammy64 Why would I be sarcastic?

@@callmeishmael3031 Because it’s also a very dangerous spot to be

That's no barrel. It's a vat!

@@sammywammy64 oh but the feeling of pulling in all the work is done and all you need to do is pull in and stay at there and enjoy the ride, incredible place to be

Try nazare at near 100feet. And getting wiped out.

Nazare has nothing to do with tsunamis :s

i was just going to say that

@Maxwell KINGSTON not really because he has ot qt the front alrrady

the perspective wouldn't show how scary it really is. It's like hills on a gopro...the camera doesn't do the incline justice.

Hello friend

hours of boredom punctuated by hours of sheer terror :)

😁

So good