Did you use the same measurements for the all the stops....meaning there the same from the 40hp to the 50hp??

That's great feedback! I'm glad the video was helpful to you!

Good deal! Glad I was able to help.

Glad I could help!

Dou you have the timing specs for the 1991 Pro50 engines?

Feedback like this keeps me going! I appreciate it and am glad the video helped you!

Thanks, will do!

That's great to hear! I'm glad it helped!

No problem !

Great to hear!

No problem 👍

Thank you Jeffery!

Your welcome!

Glad it helped!

You're welcome!

Glad they are helpful to you!

@@ExtremeDIYGuy sure as hell are used your method to clean all the carbs even got the wire same as yours through amazon the bottom carb jets were completely blocked but carb cleaner and the wire made them like new again .

That's awesome! Have you got it running yet?

@@ExtremeDIYGuy no i was on the home straight going to adjust the links and carbs and the tilt and trim switch was playing up on the binacle tried to open it up but some bone head has put stud lock on the screws then the bracket that holds the adjustment screw for the cdi broke when i went to adjust the 20mm distance for the stopper having heaps of trouble trying to get a replacement as they dont make them anymore.

Thanks !

Glad to hear it!

Thanks!

Merry Christmas and thanks!

Thanks Kenny!

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks 👍

Thanks!

Your welcome!

Your welcome!

Your welcome Kane!

Thanks

You are welcome!

Thanks!

That's great! Hopefully it will fire right up and run right!

Your welcome, thanks for watching!

I do not but but I checked the manual. It advises that when the carb is held upside down, the top of the float should be 15 mm +/- 1 from the edge of the carb body. Hope that makes sense.

Prob the prime start solenoid. Stu has a good video on that here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rpllqNSHstuWomQ.html

Most welcome!

Glad it helped

No problem! Thanks!

Actually I don't have that engine anymore sorry

The manual I have says 1-5/8 +/- 1/4 for an M model and 1-3/8 +/- 1/4 for an EM or E model. Hope that helps.

Not that I can tell. I think the push system is a little more finicky to adjust but beyond that, I have no preference for either.

If the idle screw are all the way out it is probably running too rich for one. Is it running at 1k or 5k?

Thanks, I'm not 100% sure but if you don't have access to a manual you might want to try 20mm as the starting measurement. Before you do anything, measure where it is at first in case you have to revert back to where it was. Good luck!

Something definitely sounds off. The sync sounds like it is off with the bottom carb. That could definitely cause a lot of issues. I would start with trying to fix that as it should be perfectly in sync with the other two carbs. Did you do a complete cleaning of the carbs? If not, I would do that first. I have a video on that as well.

Same problem I had.

I am not a certified tech but think that something sounds off with the drive or the crankshaft. I would definitely have a shop look at it.

Something is off with the link and sync, you should probably go through the whole process from scratch.

Sounds like there's a few things going on. As far as the fuel smell, that sounds like the float isn't closing the needle valve all the way on one of the carbs. On the linkage adjustment, you shouldn't have to force it, did you back the idle adjustment out before trying to sync the carbs to fully closed? You may want to also look at the oil mix adjustment and probably do a complete link and sync. I would suggest getting a service manual if you don't already have one, I found a pdf version on line for about $20

@@ExtremeDIYGuy thank you. I have the shop manual, I used it for the carb rebuild. I think having to force the bottom butterfly valve close was a result of the linkage getting caught up on the various oil lines around the tank and pump. After running WOT this weekend for a while, it stalled coming out of gear and the bottom cylinder was completely flooded and gas was dumping out down the shaft. I bought another rebuild kit so I'll be starting with that tomorrow. Thanks!

Great video do I need to bring piston to the top before I set carbs thanks for the help

Sorry, I dont have access to one at this point. It should be in the manual though.

Probably in the wrong order, I would check with a service manual

I would start by checking the idle mix screws and then the idle control. Could be the linkage as well. I had to adjust mine back at the controller so everything would play nicely in the engine. Another are that could be causing that are the carbs. They are actually pretty easy to thoroughly clean (I have a video on that as well).

@@ExtremeDIYGuy thanks Jose. I think my pointer in the CDI was not indexed with the marks on the case and I may have throw the timing way off

@@ExtremeDIYGuy Found out my CDI was shot. I replaced it and WOT RPM now is smooth. Having a hard time making it idle smoothly.

Did you check the timing? I had to replace the CDI module on this engine as the timing was way off with the original.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy I haven’t. I’m having a hard time getting it to run even on idle at this point. I’ve been through the entire fuel system and today I’ve found the prime start solenoid is bad. 0.0 ohms. I’m not sure that’s the overall issue though. Last year when I put this motor on it ran an idles just fine but would die as soon as I put it in gear in the water. New temp gas tank new hoses and bulb new fuel pump. Then got into the control cables today. I had to replace them for longer cables. Also tried disconnecting the low oil sensor. No dice. If I try to bump up the idle to make it run it dies instantly. I was thinking CDI but dang expensive gamble!

@@ancellsadventures They aren't cheap but may be worth a try. I bought mine from CDI electronic but did it because I know the timing was way off with the original. I'm not 100% sure but the carbs may be the culprit. Yamaha carbs are notorious for getting fouled up and the common theme is that you need a hydrosonic cleaner to open up the port to the idle jet. I'm actually going to dive into mine soon to see what all the talk is about but sounds like that might be a place to look. I've been told that these ports can be cleaned manually but haven't had the chance to try it myself.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy I’ve been thinking timing all along honestly just did everything else I could first. I’m very familiar with small carbs and I’m satisfied that these are clean. I’m going to try and test my CDI and verify before pulling that trigger lol. Thanks for your help! Great video and ya got a new subscriber!

Thanks! One last piece of advice, call CDI Electronics tech assist and ask for the Yamaha expert, let him know what you're running into. I did that before changing the CDI and he spent some time on the phone with me, I learned more in 20 minutes about Yami's then a weeks worth of classwork! Checked out your channel, great job on the Whaler, sub'd to your channel. Best of luck.

Thanks! I would start at the control box and work my way back to the engine to see if something is hanging up or mis-adjusted.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy will try that tomorrow 👌

@@mitchmix999 Make sure to check the engine first before doing anything to see if there's anything obviously wrong. I had a similar problem which was the control box but yours may be as simple as adjusting the throttle cable. at the engine.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy Just had a look by taking the cam accelerator link off so i could push the remotes down. All good. Checked the cam accelerator and the movement in that was ok too. My guess is the 703 remote cable is a bit stiff and just needs a bit of working. Might be at it's end of life too?

Turned out the CDI output voltage to each HT lead was only 50V (spec is 125V minimum). On top of this, the CDI timing position is well out. I've replaced the CDI and 7 degrees is bang on the mark with new CDI unit. The old CDI unit, 7 degrees was near half way towards fully advanced. I can only assume this is an age related issue with the CDI. I've a twin engine setup and both units are showing the same failings....poor output voltage to HT lead and also timing no longer being accurate on the CDI.

Thanks 👍

I would start with a thorough cleaning of the carbs.

I would replace it, I've not seen a tiney wire on the 40 2 stroke so am not really sure.

Clayton, unfortunately, I don't have a manual for a 90 so can't give you a definitive answer. I might be worth searching for the manual on yours, I've found a wealth of manual resources online in the past.

That could very well be the problem, I would replace or rebuild it and see if that fixes the problem.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy i.have Yamaha 40 hp I set the cdi on the marks but snis and cohf and puf plos no power

Jose, I have replaced the fuel pump and cleaned the carbs again using your other helpful video and the problem still persists, any tips?

Brendan, I honestly have no idea. If I ever have the opportunity I would give it a shot but can't give you an honest answer.

The control link for that should be on the bottom carburetor port side. Follow the link to the oil mixer control. I don't have details on adjusting that though. I would get a copy of the manual for specifics.

You're welcome, I hope it help you with your maintenance!

IT is very similar, you should be able to adjust the idle speed though

Sounds like a challenging problem. Did you check whether the tank is venting and the hoses and bulb aren't collapsing?

Jose let me make this clear when i say this.. you have saved me hundreds of $$ by posting this vid!! P.O.V. i have just taken my yama to the shop for coughing / hard studder issues while accelerating anything over 1.5k rpms.. long story short, $700 for carb rebuild, $225 external fuel delivery system rebuilt/ water separator the whole 9 yrds. Ofcourse to no avail!.....So jose, finally the mechanic tells me its the "Black Box" aka C.D.I unit. So without hesitation i order a new one. $500 u.s.d for the box. Okay so i swapped the c.d.i. out for the new one.. launched the boat and was so excited to finally have fixed the prob. Only to once again have my motors spit and sputter like a lawn mower in the high grass.. parked the boat on the trailor and made the call to my mechanic and got another appt to spend probably another grand on b.s. but i had a few days before they could get the boat into shop. This is when i stumbled across your channel. Seen this timimg adjustment vid, literally went out and brought a $5 digital caliber came to the boat and followed your specs word for word, # for #, and the boat runs like a scolded dog... i know its a long story but i wanted you to really understand how much you have help me brother... thank you so much for what you do and just keep posting no matter what jose! You give more than just diy tips in these videos, you really help build peoples confidence and morale. So keep it up bud🤘🤙

@@ExtremeDIYGuy 🤘

@@anthonyfields6191 This is the type of feedback that keeps me making DIY vids! I really appreciate this kind of feedback and am happy I was able to help! Thank you!

Hey Jose how you doing man! Glad to see your still up here posting and helping people with their d.i.y projects.. Recently purchased a Yamaha V4 115. It is a two-stroke and it is carbureted. Also, 704 rigging and binnacle. I wonder what this same link and sink measurements work on that? 115?

I haven't worked on one so don't have a video for it, sorry.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy No problem, I was just going by what you had said in your Yamaha sync and tune video that you were going to make a video showing how to adjust cables in a Yamaha controller...

I ended up selling the boat along with the Yami and the controller. I did adjust the cables on it before selling it but did not make a video. TBH, it was a pain in the butt. I'd like to get another Yamaha at some point, if I do I'll do my best to do a video on that. I ended up doing small adjustments on the controller end. Making the adjustments wasn't too hard. Lining everything up correctly was the challenging part.

It will be similar but probably not the same, I would get an on line manual.

It's a good engine, definitely worth the effort! Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy it has had its issues i can tell you completly calcified up it was the dirtiest greaseiest angine i have ever seen but not anymore ill get there in the end .

Hopefully the finish line is in sight!

2 stroke

Probably so, but I would play it safe and download a pdf copy of the manual, I think I paid about $20 for mine,

Okay I purchased a service manual but couldn’t find the idle stop mm information. Is there another manual out there? On Yamahapubs I can only purchase the service manual and owners manual. Maybe I will look on another site

Mine show it in the "periodic inspection and adjustment section", sub section titled "control system" section 3 page 2. My manual covers the 40 and 50hp version, you may want to measure where it's at now and then try 20mm (what mine calls for). Interestingly enough, mine was serviced by a Yamaha "pro" who left all the settings completely out of spec.

The linkage probably needs adjustment, I would download the manual and follow the steps in it to adjust it correctly.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy your awesome! Thanks for your time(sharing information) and professionalism!

Hard to say without a pic but on mine it sts right above the exhaust cover.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy I was able to locate with diagrams on parts list with pictures of location Thanks

That doesn't sound right at all. But I don't have access to a C60 manual so cant say definitively.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy I did end up finding the information on a forum with the c60 Yamaha the single mark is idling and double line is wot. With that setting my timing is right on with the light. Thank you for the video it was still helpful to me. Keep it up you do a great job of exploring the process.

I can find it but have to warn you that it is ill fitting for this boat, it would have been better for a 12-14 ft skiff. (Affiliate Link) amzn.to/2RztIk7

I would check your fuel system,. Here's a video that will give you some tips. akzfaq.info/get/bejne/brR5bMej19SmaYU.html

I'm pretty sure I got that right.

I would find and download the shop manual for it. That's what I do for every outboard I work on.

Hi Brian, it's a 1995

On all the ones I have seen I is low speed and II is high speed.

@@ExtremeDIYGuy thanks

Great to hear! Thanks for watching!

I literally just did it with my 50 and yes it works 100%

I do not sorry.

Its probably similar but get the manual, i get a manual for every engine I work on.

It should be relatively close. I would suggest buying a pdf version of the manual. I do that for any engine I work on.

Id recommend you get a manual for your specific engine as I cant say for sure.

That's odd, there should be an idle stop, perhaps a picture might help. Or better yet, send me the exact year and model #, I might be able to look it up.

Thanks, it was very off and the bolt had a washer and it threw me off, I set that first and then recked all the rest. Great Job and ty for your help Brian @@ExtremeDIYGuy

Email me at extremediy01@gmail.com I may be able to send you some wiring diagrams I have.

I tend to steer away from Mercs but will tackle one should I happen to eventually own another one!

ITs probably very similar, I would get a manual for that model.

They should be similar but I would refer to the service manual for actual measurements

Where can i find a service Manual? I dont have won. Thanks for responding! ​@@ExtremeDIYGuy

​@@ExtremeDIYGuywhere can i find a manual for 60 hp?

My view is that I trust the manual. If someone did something different, they were compensating for something that was broken or out of spec. On my engine, the CDI unit was off by about 15 degrees. Whoever worked on it last compensated for that and had all of the link adjustments out of whack. I had to also adjust the throttle cable at the control box to get everything right. Ever since I got everything dialed in correctly the engine has run like a well lubed sewing machine!

@@ExtremeDIYGuy awesome thanks for replying again. So maybe I can just rely on the CDI "dial" vs pulling out a timing light?

I would take it to a certified tech

Best bet is email, extremediy01@gmail.com