Not sure how you do it. Family responsibilities, work, building a professional grade rv, you tube tutorials. You are gold standard, Ken.

Finally! I've been looking for someone who worked with the original factory headliner. This is so helpful. Thank you!

When I originally seen the video I couldn't hear the sound since there was much surrounding activity art my location; but later seen & heard the audio then found my questions were already answered by the video; sincerely appreciative for a whole much effort of experances given, I thank you Very Much!

Another great installment in the Sprinter build series. Your work is brilliant. Well thought out, and equally well-executed. Meticulous attention to detail.

Best looking, most clean & solid van interior build on youtube.

Great as always Ken! Probably more attention to detail than any pro van builder.

Another awesome job Ken. I love the details and never would’ve thought about the fiberglass L bracket to minimize heat transfer.

Very impressive and clean... You're ability to figure stuff out is incredible. I wish I had the patience and understanding as you.

very cool design, nice attention to detail. WELL DONE!

I just watched this video again, actually studies again. Love all the details. Looking forward to see the next one.

Very fine work. An excellent choice of material.

Great to see the progression of the build Ken.

Great videos! Who the heck gives a thumbs down to that? Guess haters gonna hate. I did some bed risers in our van with 82/20 great stuff hoping to get more advanced to do some benches and cabinets. So great job Ken your videos are a wealth of information! The Master Sergeant guives you 2 thumbs up!

Excellent. I’ve been looking forward to this portion of the build. Well researched and planned. Great overall progress, considering you only get about 1 weekend a month to actually do the build. You should consider doing a live feed, question and answer section with the donation option.

Great stuff as usual! I'm thinking of duplicating your electrical system for my Four Wheel truck camper. Great stuff, Light Weight, Small Package and well thought out. In the future, you could build any one of these components (Cabinets, Electrical Starter Kits, etc) and sell them - I'm sure! I know you are very busy at this point with limited time due to circumstances. Thanks for sharing your build!

9:00 great to hear how to avoid thermal bridging.

Hi Ken! We’re really liking your videos and learning a lot about van build. We just got a new 2021 Sprinter cargo van but unfortunately it didn’t come with the factory headliner nor factory floor. The headliner has a very clean look and I wish we can purchase them separately. Thank you for sharing these van build how-to’s. 👍

Nice work as usual. Not having to lubricate when milling is nice!

I love the plusnuts, you've used. Great video. Van Williams

Great Job, I couldn't find any video of those curved corner ceiling skin panels, Thanks again!!

Beautifully explained, so grateful to have found your channel. Love your craftsmanship!

Du très joli travail merci de nous le faire partager. À bientôt ! Beautiful job thanks to share. See you soon.

That is exactly what i ve been looking for my van built! Freaking awesome those aluminum profiles! Thanks for sharing!

Nice job. I'm a little bit ahead of you on my Sprinter build ,,,damm it's too late. I like the clean industrial look, so I went with all aluminum cabinets from RB Components for both upper and lower cabinets. I really like the extruded aluminum system you used so maybe next time. For the bunk area and to support the cabinets, I TIG welded aluminum angle. 125 by 3". I used 3/8 by 16 Plus nuts to tie onto the walls, floor, and ceiling. I also like your use of the factory head liner. My van is a cargo model so no included liner. I sprayed Lizard skin ceramic and sound deadening added SPRAY foam and blue jeans before installing white aluminum ceiling panels also from RB Components. I can't wait for your next vlog.

Very professional job

Your videos are excellent. Love the attention to detail. Very informative. Cheers

Once again ... AWESOME! Thank you for the update!

Great video!! Using this method to hang storage shelves in my low top. 👍

Just amazing work. Truly beautiful.

Great idea with the magnet to catch the shavings! If only I thought of that months ago... I just published my video making plywood overhead cabinets incase anyone wants alternative ideas.

WOW. Love your videos. Great explanation and ideas. Would love to use that kind of construction in my Volkswagen T6.

Beautiful quality work! Great job!

I work in hardwoods and some metals. Recently a project required an end mill use in my Austrian boring machine in walnut for a half miter key lock from England. End mills should be sharp and cut the metal or wood cleanly and with no chatter (uneven cutting with excess vibration). One Korean brand (low pricing) of tool steel (not carbide) had a dull end edge on the two flute and side flute edges were same dull edge-not good. Beware of the low price in tooling. I live close to the US office for the Korean brand and the engineer they called forth to talk to me about the dull edges gave a sweet BS paragraph that end mill video makers said was typical BS. The supplier, when I called back to get a return form, went ahead and canceled the order and gave me credit for the purchase without telling me so and I waited 4 days for the form. Costing me time and almost ruining the walnut. Regal tooling in norther Illinois is a good source using one of their distributors. End mills should be so razor sharp that they will cut your finger easily. I run the end mills at 1500 rpm with no problems.

nice work no doubt. the only thing i would recommend would be to use an 80/20 distributor, we are much cheaper than most on amazon.

nice work, ill use this as a guide for my build. cheers!

Great shop practice.

Fantastic ! Great job and great information.

Great video Ken! Thumbs up.

Great work! Thank you for sharing!

great work.

You got yourself a sub! Beautiful work, inspired!

Looking good

Nice to see you again brother, I love it.. excellent work.. I did it in a different way but almost 5he same concept but easier with minimum amount of aluminum. How are you doing and what about your lovely angle... God bless you my friend always and forever

wow very nice work !!!!!!!!

great tutorial!

very nice...thanks

Doing a marathon of you videos, awesome, awesome, awesome! You mention a builder named George who has a nice van. Any links to his stuff? If you like his stuff, I am sure it is worth checking out. I have the same design taste as you and am trying to see other DIY builds that have a professional, non cabin looking build. Thanks!

Awesome video that details George's concept! I am curious what the advantage of the the half-profile framed against the van wall vs using longer PVC spacers mounted direct to the wall? Is it to disperse the load, and, if so, couldn't you just use flat aluminum (or fiberglass) stock between the longer spacers and the van wall? Cheers, S.

When you cut the 8.5 degree, what is the thickness of the cut?

Interested in how you inset the plywood flooring and cabinet end face pieces. One question is how you minimized rattling.

What are you planning to use and how will you attach the walls of the cabinets?

Hi Ken, great effort yet again! I was wondering if you have any thoughts in hanging anything off the bottom channel? I'd be tempted to create a removable hammock(child bed) for the rear depending on the use of space at the rear. You've also got me thinking about those hanging kitchen accessory you get in the likes of IKEA that all run on a rail like the dish draining rack etc. You could mount a handy fire extinguisher off it at the end where you have that gap to the drivers seat and a fire blanket. Having had t25 for years and as I'm the cook in our van I always like things handy. So think these cupboards you are building will be your most used. I think with our 3yr old now I'm going to steal all your ideas for my van, the next one, when I buy it the t5's days are numbered. Well done with your build!

Wow, so helpful to actually see it being built and explained. Just can't visualize how easy it is just looking at George's. Thanks! Your videos are invaluable.

Could you include some links for the hinges and latches that you used on the cabinet doors, please?

Can't wait to see your final van. Hope you can convert my van. Please start a business.

also you do have video of you attaching the doors and shelves on the upper cabinets?

Thank you for the very helpful video. How strong are the fiberglass angle brackets compared to aluminum ones?

I have a 2019 Sprinter 4x4 passenger van, which comes with headliners.will the instruction work for the same car? thanks.

Not sure if you got around to insulating above the liner just installed? or decided not to. Nice work.

It’s looking very sweet. What is the insulation? Black backing and white under?

Nice and clean but why not use 10 series 1x1 for space savings, it's more than strong enough.

Did you use any drill lube when milling? If not, were you able to finish your work with the same bit? Any chatter on your finished work? Thanks!

Is there a reason you decided on the anchor connector instead of an inside corner connector? I know the inside corner connectors are a bit more spendy- but they require no milling so with my lack of skill I am thinking it may be a safer route for me. Any major disadvantages to them that made you opt for the anchors instead?

Nice work, as always. I do wonder if using 1/4” ply for the bottom will be sufficiently strong if you place heavy items inside the cabinets. I realize it’s a small span, but I could envision the plywood deforming over time. Then again, I have a tendency to overbuild things. 😃 I look forward to the next installment. Cheers!

Is there a reason why you went with a single length profile the whole length of the van versus just using several pieces? Strength or cost effectiveness? Great work!

Greta videos! Thanks for sharing all the details. The plusnut you picked has a grip range of .020-.280". The sprinter van sheet metal (at lease for BOW) has a thickness of 0.032" thickness. Just wondering your thoughts on picking the next grip size: 0.280-0.500".

I'm not sure I quite understand how you deal with that 8.5 degree variance on your walls. It looks like you're going straight through an angle bracket and your cut spacer into a t-nut - is that t-nut rotating that 8.5 degrees within the rail to accomodate a straight threading of the bolt coming through? You mention it's a roll-in t-nut so is that what makes this work? All this stuff is built to be straight angles so introducing a little variance with a puck cut out of PVC doesn't seem workable to me. Thanks!

Using the factory hole in the rib for the overhead attachments, do you recall what depth of cabinet you ended up with? I'm wanting to have my rear cabinets around 12" deep, but have the cabinets over the galley only about 9" deep. So my overhead extrusions will be off set. I suppose if things don't line up with a factory hole, I could just drill a new hole for the plus nut.

What tool did you use to measure the angle of the roof and the wall in order to cut the spacers?

I'm sure you have said it somewhere but specifically what latch hardware did you use. Manufacturer and model number. I looked but could not find where you mentioned it. Also, you mentioned that a friend made the counter top. It looks like he used ApplePly to glue the laminate top to, is that correct and what thickness? Thanks

Which size profile are you using? I'm about to order extrusions for a custom solar panel roof rack for my Jeep and a mini-camper interior using a lot of the ideas you've shared. I'm leaning toward the 25 series metric as I can get black smooth cheaper than the 10 series. Your 80/20 build videos have been by far the most useful that I've found - love the drawer system components and mounting tips. Thank you for sharing all your hard work!

Hey I'm using your guide for my upper cabinet. Thank you so much for the really great write up on your website and this video! I have a question about 1/4" plywood inset into the channels for the cabinet floors. The channel seems to be about 3/8" wide. Does your 1/4" plywood rattle around a lot in there? Have you done anything to keep it from bouncing around as you drive like a gasket or something? Or did cutting it to the exact right dimensions to slide in prevent any rattle already?

Whom supplies these alum extresions and other associated parts?

If you could, what is the measurement of the "track" or groove in the 80/20?

Did you look into just ordering the 8020 already milled for the anchor fasteners?

Sweet build! Your videos are the most detailed and helpful. I was curious at which RPM are you running your drill press to counterbore for the anchor fasteners?

Great videos. You made me a believer and I will be trying these on my own. I looked but could not find... Are you using 10 series or 15 series aluminum. If you are using both, what are your considerations and where are you using which grade

I watched this years ago and came back to get a look at your build since I recently decided to change my layout. I was planning to have a horizontal Murphy Bed framed with 80/20, fastened to the deck/bulkhead but am considering instead to mount it as high as possible. It seems your cabinet frame would work nicely for my bed. This would allow room for several items below the stowed bed to be used during the day. Given your experience with your cabinets do you know of any showstoppers regarding my idea?

I ordered the PlusNuts from the link you included. They did not come with the install tool that you used. Do you have a different link to that tool so I can order? thanks

Can you post a link to those hinges you used for your galley cabinet doors please

Were you ever an air traffic controller. I ask since you say "correction"

Why is so important to collect all metal shaving inside walls? Just wondering..

Hi there, how did you get the oem dome light eight the switch in the middle wired?

How do you get the milled holes so perfectly sized? I have the same bit and have bolted my drill press to a solid table which is in turn secured to the wall of the garage, and clamped everything down using a similar 8020 channel that you are using (thanks for the idea!) and still the drilling shakes so much that the resulting hole is much bigger than the anchor fastener. Did you have any trouble with this during your build and how did you resolve? Thanks for a great channel!

What size drill bit did you use for the plus nuts?

Thank you Ken!! I learn SO much from your videos & use a great deal of your creative ideas & techniques - we are pretty close in our executions & I am also a single Dad with a daughter & also use my unfinished van as much as I can. I download your videos to refer to them on my iPad frame by frame while working on my Sprinter & attempt to source from your links so there is a few well deserved $ coming back your way). Since you have not been back on the Overheads for a bit (& I am adopting your bold move with the Anchor Fasteners) I had a question: what are you thinking to do close the exposed end of rails around 18:22 in your video (since the Anchor Fastener does takes care of pretty much everything else). I looked at the 80-20 Part#2030GRA end caps which will do the job, but definitely fall short of the artful execution which has become your "standard". Thank you again, Ranger

I like that aluminum is lightweight (also non ferrous) . I get bummed out thinking about all the mods I want to do when I eventually get a sprinter if it's going to be heavy. If and when I get around to it I'll be going for a lightweight solution for anything and everything. Are you keeping track of how much weight you're adding to the van? Would be cool to know before and after weigh-in.

Hey Ken. Was up until 3am diving into your videos last night. Pretty tired today, ha. Thanks for such great detailed videos! I used some of your ideas for my previous build. Mostly for the insulation and basic build items. In my next build I'd like to be a lot lighter and more modular. I'll likely do very similar things that you have. I'd like to replicate the Adventure Wagon L-Track concept on the walls/ceilings and also do L-Track on the floors. With that said, do you know of a way to attach the 8020 galley and uppers cabinets to the L-Track? Is there a certain product that would do that nicely? And, would it be safe? Thanks for your help!!!

just wondering why you decided on 1.5" size. thanks

What is the cost of the factory headliner?

This is awesome. Can I borrow your garage to build mine??

Yikes, just double checking my math here, but it looks like it cost $400+ just for the (4) long horizontal 8020 pieces??

What material did you use for the beveled spacers?

How does a magnet capture aluminum?

I would like to know the cost of 80/20 for this build. Thx.

Great work Ken! How long are your 5/16" bolts that go through the body of the van and into the half bar?

nice work.. btw where did you get the 8.5degree spacers?

Does it actually work catching aluminum chips with a magnet? just courious...

Good afternoon What’s the name of the aluminum material at Amazon? I couldn’t find them. Thanks