You are correct, unfortunately non of the correct actions where taken in a beginning of this build!

@@ANCarpentry yeah shocking work. Good job, not easy putting peoples crap right

Notching rafter will weaken them.

Thanks glad to see someone that understand the difference!

Thanks for appreciating!

Glad it was helpful!

I would disagree as if you put timber at the angle it's not taking the weight but relying on fixing instead, it will want to slip off the timber, if you cut beard's mouth weight gets directed straight down!

If anything the roof will spread out not inward, so cutting bird mouth becomes more disadvantages.

Hi Jim Bow. Thanks for comment, on structural stuff we only use C 24 grade wood ( use it on everything structural can't go wrong then).

Glad to be helpful!!!

Yes you need steels and or flitch beams, (steel sandwiched between timbers) they are are taking load of the floor above and taking some load of the roof as there is stud wall ( dwarf wall) build under roof rafters around 900 mm height of the floor joists spreading some of the roof load on low bearing walls etc.

There where lots of issues, and things done kets say not how I would done them if started the job from scratch.

Bird’s mouth should be maximum 1/3 of the timber in ideal world, so if your timber is 94x45 then you could cut in 30mm deep.

Thanks, glad that you enjoyed it!

Hi trouble with timber is that it is difficult to calculate the load so hence why engineers say that to you as with drawing they would have some figures to look at, but without it's to risky. What is usually done in modern days with stud walls, if it needed to be as load bearing wall it get's boarded either with ply wood or OSB board, thickness required gets calculated by structural engineer and unfortunately without engineers calculations you will not know what size timber, board you need to use which will stop you again from getting it signed off.

Try a new system called ecotrus It will allow you to carry out your conversion

Hi. Structural engineer is responsible for steels un structure, timber size used etc, but also you need good architect who can provide you with detailed plans, as the biggest problems with loft conversions is condensation problems solving( the easiest is by having worm roof link here: jtcroofing.co.uk/news/warm-flat-roof-cold-flat-roof/), as there is no need for cross ventilation, which is needed with cold roof link here: www.buildingregs4plans.co.uk/guidance_flat_roof_types.php) if height allows, warm roof is better option, but you need to have enough height in your attic space, I would say about 2400 mm upwards as all layers insulation, osb are installed on top of the deck( flat roof) if your height is not sufficient then you will have to use cold roof construction, with plenty of cross ventilation to avoid build up in condensation. But all this will be subject to drawings, and dimensions you have in your property, as for who's responsible, trad men are responsible to build it to the specifications of architect drawings and use materials specified by structural engineer.

There was a little more problem to solve before that.

My advice get 3 independent quotes and ask for detailed brake down what is included, however 19.5 k sounds cheap, loft conversion are starting around £40 k and upwards depending on specifications etc.

Hi Dave, you might of missed that we took on this job, after it was bogged, in ideal world many things would of been done differently if build correctly from day one, we where working along side with Building control at the time getting things rectified as best as they could of been at the time.

Tell me about it, not just that, new roof looked old as it was badly supported before tiles went on, and by the time we got to rectify things it was a bit too late unfortunately

Those where specifications of engineer at the time all we did was follow the instructions, but as you say, i have done jobs where floor joists are kept separate from sealing joist for the reason you mentioned.

You are welcome 👍

the homeowner

Very true!

It depends of Architects design and structural engineers calculations.

It's a perfectly reasonable question Rodger although it's plausibly a safe answer if one is either unsure of any complexities of building regulatory requirements regarding the attics structural configuration whether it's fink, queenpost, modified queenpost, howe, kingpost, pan etc etc. But as we both no doubt know in respect to building regulations it's primarily common sense mostly and should be very simple unless one has stumbled over local building regulations or isn't entirely sure on the essential building works being carried out properly hence the building regulatory requirement notice! Installing the steel RSJs is the first of the major structural works to be completed as one would expect before replacing and securing everything into place with the reinforced struts! Tbh at this point if I was a structural engineer then I would be absolutely mortified!

If it's a "ridge beam" it will be supporting the weight of the roof & should be made of something rather substantial & you'd need proper SE calculations if you're doing a proper job. However in this I'd guess it is simply a "ridge board", which is mainly there to fix the top of the rafters into among other things, although it should be a decent thickness & of sufficient depth to match the angle cut into the rafter tops. With a "ridge board" the weight of the roof is transferred downwards to the wall plate or whatever at the bottom so you'd need to do something like tie the bottom of the rafters into the ceiling joists etc to stop the rafters spreading & pushing out the walls. The guy in the video remarks on the fact they need to fit something to stop the spreading.

👍🏻

Nothing was strengthened on that job, wee had a "lot of fun". Good spot thou!!

Agree!

Now you would not definitely!

We didn't remove all at the same time, we done one by one where possible and also we used props to take weight of the roof, otherwise it wouldn't be safe to do at all.

@@ANCarpentry I see that but after doing that there is no longer any fixing through the roofing batten into the rafters

It turned out to be, more expensive than it should of been if done properly first time around.

What ever!

That's it i am hair dresser 😁🤣

Must say i agree on this, unfortunately so called builder got quite a big chunk of money before he was sacked but not everything so we did our best of what we had available.

No worries that's why we make these sort of videos hopefully people will avoid making same mistakes !

about 25%-%30 cheaper than should be

You clearly haven’t noticed that in case if ceiling joists are cut short and not resting on old wall plate either end and just balancing on load bearing walls in a middle of the building they have to be fixed, to make sure that part of the ceiling what’s still left is held up, and clearly you have no idea on how to build, before you comment do research.

That's a shame, can you tell me what was a reason.?

Of course, you can if you want your new roof look like 100 years old, as supposed uprights wasn’t even bolted to rafters you are not relying on load to be transferred to steel beams but on nails instead, brilliant design.

@@ANCarpentry how can a new roof look 100 year old? You are aware engineers say it can be done either way

Because if you rely on fixing once you will put tiles on it wont distribute weight evenly which if you would watch video from beginning will push out the walls which it did, so before commenting think.

@@ANCarpentry do you even know what them fixings are called? its not just a bolt going through the wood. So your saying your more knowledgable then a structural engineer?

I am saying that you don’t know what you talking about, don’t really care who you think you are.