Good for you in teaching her how to drive a manual transmission! You should be proud of her on how she listens to the engine for driving.

I used to be a rep for BG over 10 years ago, those little tokens at the bottom are for the techs. The rep would come in and cash them out based on a value of their color. Orange was worth $.25.

I've been a mechanic for 18 years and I can guarantee you that if the oil consumption was due to stuck piston rings, by now with all the additives you've used, it would have already been solved... I confirm that the oil passes between the cylinder and the piston because the carbon is created in the centre, while all around the piston is clean, if it came from the valve seals, the carbon would be all over the upper part of the piston. I think the problem is caused by wear... you should try to increase the viscosity of the oil by changing oil or using an additive such as Lucas Oil Stabiliser, alternatively use a PTFE based filler or other sololide or semi-solid additives to restore the fit lost by wear.

Have been LOVING this series. Can't wait for the results of the HPL cleaner. BTW, your efforts to make these videos entertaining are not going unnoticed, they get better every video. Thanks so much!

my volvo was burning a quart every 1200-1400 miles. I did a BG109 flush like this: Added BG109 and idled at 2000RPM for 45 minutes. Changed oil and added another can of BG109 and idled at 2K RPM for another 45 minutes. Changed oil again. It went 4836 miles to it's next oil change and was down only 1/4 of a quart. The next oil change was 5283 miles later and it was down only a bit more than a 1/4 of a quart. I believe the length of time and the RPMs of the idle and flush make a big difference.

Nice job teaching your Daughter the correct way to drive an Automatic. We weren't able to have Kids and witnessing fine examples of a Father/Daughter relationship pulls hard on my heart strings. Even now at 66 years old, I still wonder what "Could have been?". Oh what a lucky Man you are.......

Smart dad! Starting his baby off on a stick shift! Nice work!

Our shop sells BG products in a "trifecta" kit... it contains EPR, MOA, and 44K that gets added to the fuel tank. Huge improvement for most of our customers. Unfortunately, some engines are too far gone and there's no product in the world that can replace worn away metal. 🤪

Don't wait to replace the radiator. The white discolouration means the spigot can break off at any time. My experience with this: I was a warranty engineer responsible for powertrain cooling with a couple of major auto companies, for several years. If you intend to keep your car (even if you eventually have to replace the rings), don't risk it. Replace it.

CORRECTION: the ending should have said "1997 - 2021" -- it was a 97 Tacoma. Entire oil burning playlist: kzfaq.info/sun/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj Previous Corolla video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5l5mM-mm8qup6M.html Next Corolla video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fc6Hlryp15_bhKs.html

I have done the DMSO flush on my Toyota Camry 2AZ-FE among a list of other flushes. I used SuperTech 20W50 along w/ Lucas stabilizer (1qt Lucas to 4qts 20W50) and Toyota filters. It took 4 flushes of dark black oil before the oil came out clean (1hr elevated idle each flush). It definitely made a consumption difference of approx 1/2qt per 1000 miles but not as much as I had hoped for. I was adding up to 5qts of oil per 3000 miles before I tried any form of flushing. I would give it a try so we can all keep watching your channel. Note: Do not get ANY used flush oil on your skin!!

FYI for the drain plug to keep your hands clean 😁 Once the drain plug is loose, use a telescoping magnet and spin the magnet tool 😊

You need a new valve cover gasket. The oil on the top of the spark plug is from the gasket, not the cylinder.

I don't know why I like your videos so much, I'm not even affected by the problem. Keep it up, I really appreciate the work you're putting into this problem! I really like you, greetings from Germany.

I'd like to see a test with an oil catch can so we can see if some of the oil loss is through the pcv system. you could be losing oil both in the cylinders and in the pcv if the ring issue is pressurizing the crankcase.

Hi Dave, I've been following your series and you inspired me to try Berryman's B12 on my K24 Honda that was burning about a litre of oil every 600 miles. Done a couple of treatments through the spark plug holes but didn't seem to help until I tried Liqui Moly's engine flush (professional line - black - p/n 2427). Slightly tweaked the recommended method and ran the engine on 3k RPM instead of idle. I think it's REALLY important as there is not enough oil pressure on idle to break through the carbon deposits. After draining the oil I found plenty of softened carbon particles at the bottom of the pan. Please inspect the bottom of your pan (rather than the oil itself with a tissue) next time you do any experiments! Since that treatment my consumption went down to 1l/1000 miles! Still not ideal but big improvement I would say. I will keep doing this a couple of more times to see if I can improve it a bit further. Will probably also run it a bit further than 15-20 minutes. I'm thinking to run it 10 minutes on idle and then 20 minutes on 3k. Also tempted to try this Pro-tec - Bluechem Carbon X K1+K2 Combustion Chamber Cleaner down the spark plug holes. Looking forward to your next video.

I just caught up with the series, so I'm leaving a comment here about your P0420 trouble code. I have a 2003 Toyota Avensis T25 1.8 (EU model) with the same 1ZZ-FE engine. I also have oil consumption problems and the P0420 code is related to that. You don't have to replace the catalytic converter. Due to the oil being burned the downstream O2 sensor (the one after the cat) is contaminated. All you have to do is remove the sensor, clean it with carb cleaner and install an "O2 sensor spacer". I did the same and it worked like a charm. Hope this helps.

Another option is GM 12378549 Ring and Piston Cleaner. We used to use it on the Northstar for stuck engine rings. Down the plug hole, suction after specified time.

Hey listen I’ve used a multitude of different oils in my Nissan Sentra over time. You name it. Lucas, Castrol, pennzoil, Liquimoly, K&N, valvoline and maybe another few I can’t think of now. All of which are 5w-30 by the way. But all those oils would burn off and in between oil changes I’d have to add a total of 1.5 qts with the exception of one oil. "Mobil1 Extended Protection High Mileage" is the only oil out of all the oils I’ve ever used that burned off the least with my car only needing a half a qt on a 5k mile interval. I was stunned to say the least. My car now has 203,000 miles and I just put a new oil pan on it and this time I’m running the Rotella T6 5W-40 and my engine feels so much smoother & quieter. But with this OCI I’ll see how much my car burn will burn with this oil

Pull the plugs, rotate the engine to #1 TDC fill cylinder with B12 and install compression tester. Fill cylinder with compressed shop air to force the B12 past the rings. Roll engine to #3 TDC and repeat. Rinse and repeat for the remaining cylinders. Might help the B12 reach some spots around the piston that the gravity method isn’t allowing.

Very entertaining watching the learning curve driving an auto for the first time! Not too many people learn that way any more!

The rapid carbon buildup is from the excessive oil entering the combustion process. Rotary engines have this problem as they inject oil into the rotors as designed and you need to drive them hard to prevent carbon buildup.

you can also try, amsoil engine flush, and add amsoil performance improver

That 'thing' down in the bottom of the can at 5:53 is for the shop technician that uses that product. The technician will save them after every service that is performed on a customer's vehicle. Those 'chips' -as we called them- are worth a dollor value. Its a kickback incentive to sell their product to our customers. When I was a tech, we had a BG representive arrive once a month and collect all the 'chips' and redeem them for a cash value. Just FYI.. Greenville resident here by the way. I've wrote you before, but I enjoy seeing your content. Keep up the good work!

I accidentally put EPR in to a 2013 F-150 tank with 8 gallons of gas and the fuel gauge stop working. This truck is known for having an erratic fuel gauge issue which I wasn't having. Typically, multiple chevron techron (makuloco) are used but EPR cleaned the contacts in one shot. The distillates and cyclohexanone in EPR are potent for some reason. It may be worth soaking the cylinder in BG EPR and using compressed air to push the fluid past the rings into the crankcase. The KIA TSB does something similar with valvoline intake cleaner (884526) for 3 minutes followed by an overnight soaking. EPR is active for 40 minutes, but that may be only for a hot engine. On a cold or warm engine EPR could survive overnight. It could also evaporate on its way down to the crankcase requiring addition EPR (10-30%.) An alternative to EPR could be a homebrew mix of lucas fuel treatment (distillates) and purple pvc primer (cyclohexanone/MEK). It could be 50/50 or 60/40. Try at your own risk... As far as rapid carbon build up, you may want to introduce PEA products through fuel and air induction for all experiments. For fuel I would stick with techron high mileage, gumout regane HM, or redline. For air induction I would use CRC GDI IVD cleaner. I would do a double application of those products during or in between experiments (1000 miles) just to manage the blow by soot and carbon from oil burning.

Hate to disappoint you. But I tried BG EPR (Bg109) with my Gen 3 Prius before an oil change a couple of years ago. No change of the oil consumption rate after the treatment. Looks like no oil or gas treatment can stop the oil consumption issue in Toyota engines. The only valid option so far, to a certain degree, is to use heavier oil mixed with 0W-20.

Dave, it's really great that you've taught your daughter on the manual first. She's obviously much more aware of what's going on with the car because of that. Also, I feel like maybe I mislead you on the EPR. It worked well in my 1ZZFE but appears to have done nothing for yours. It seems like your results with B12 were similar to my results with EPR, reducing consumption by 1/2 (more or less). I wonder if the build up around the rings has a layer that these chemicals can (and do) remove, but after that the really old buildup is just too tough for these chemicals, regardless of which one you use. I agree the BG dynamic is probably the ultimate and final flush. I'm looking forward to your next test results. Also, just my opinion but I'd be scared to try anything that's going to strip paint, that just seems too harsh & risky to me...just my opinion though.

I'm not sure if someone has said this already. But if you want a neat trick for the oil filter. Put your catch pan under the filter and punch a neat little hole in the bottom of it with an awl or screwdriver. Let drain and then remove the cleanest oil filter ever!

Oh Jesus, DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT!!! use all purpose cleaners on an engine! I don't even know, why you would listen to that Artistry Photography guy, to see what his advises are about, just read the most liked comment under the video you've linked! The engine started knocking after using the cleaner. You're risking destroying your seals, the paint from the bottom of the oil pan might come off and clog the oil pickup tube resulting in the oil starvation, and you're also risking permanently damaging the aluminum inside the engine itself. That cleaner is way too harsh to be used inside of the working engine. If you still want to use it, just use it AFTER using the BG Dynamic restoration product, and be ready to say goodbye to the engine. Now with that being said, thank you for the upload! Been waiting for another oil burning experiment video forever! Thanks to you, my car went from burning a quart in 300 miles, to zero burning as of 800 miles after doing the Berryman piston soak. I did it slightly differently than you, put 1 bottle between all 4 cylinders, and let it sit overnight first, then in the morning I checked the level of fluid inside each cylinder, added only to those that were low/empty, and then put the spark plugs back on and rotated just a bit, maybe a quarter or a fifth of a turn, and let it sit again. Did that over a 2 day period, ended up using 4 bottles of the cleaner. In the morning on a 3rd day I just drained the oil, got rid of the cleaner inside the pistons as much as possible, and Voila! No more oil burning! Again, I did not run the engine while the cleaner was inside, only rotated by hand, and checked the levels of it in the cylinders each time before adding more. Hope that helps. I've been thinking about using HPL cleaner myself, really curious to see if it works, also, I'd borescope the insides of the engine before using it, to see if it helps with getting rid of the sludge/deposits etc, rather than waiting to see if it helps with oil burning. From what I've read about it on the forums, it definitely doesn't hurt! Also, from what I've researched, Liqui Moly's engine flush is very very mild, if EPR didn't help with oil consumption, LM's concoction definitely won't help neither. Btw, in my case EPR helped a bit the first time, when I asked the shop to do it before an oil change, but then when I used it myself, it actually made the oil burning worse lol To be fair, I was struggling a lot to keep the engine running at 1200 rpm, if I ever use it again, I'd definitely buy a pedal depressor to keep RPMs steady. And it did actually get rid of a lot of deposits on the inside of the engine, I could tell by looking under the oil cap.

Another great trick for the oil filter is using a plastic party cup or any plastic cup that will fit over it. Great vid btw

A lot of these engines have oil control rings that have low spring tension against the cylinder walls of the engine. And so, this is most likely the problem and Toyota knows all about it as being a big major pitfall! Utilizing that BG 109 will help a little with carboned up and semi stuck rings BUT by bumping your engine oil viscosity up oh say to 10W-40 may also cut down the amount of oil burning/loss and that's about the best that you possibly can do! For the sake of say that you've tried, well, for overall cost effectiveness, just stick with the B-12 and 10W-40 during the summer and 10W-30 for winter! The biggest problem overall is that the engine needs to have an over- haul. Toyota most generally is responsible for the problem at hand. If it meant re-ringing the engine and all new gaskets would be painless, provided that the rest of the engine is rock solid, this might be an avenue. The B-12 might allow for you to help clear out the hydrocarbons and oil contaminants from the catalytic converter.

waited almost a month for this video!!!! couldn't click fast enough, BG EPR is a great product and I'm really hoping it works out for this car, BG also has a great product called dynamic restoration, but downfall is its a few hundred $$$

I’ve tried the 44k lost 1.3 mpg for 3 tanks in a row. Then I changed the oil after I ran the first tank. Finally after three full tanks my mpg picked back up. I did notice within minutes the engine ran better and smoother.

Research has shown that new drivers revert to what they first learned (stick or automatic) particularly in an emergency. I drove nothing but sticks for a couple of years and 10K miles before I ever drove an automatic. At that point I was comfortable driving and could make the switch much more smoothly without much distraction.

Well, we took apart a few of the Honda 2.4L CR-V engines which burned oil at similar rate as the Corolla. We subjected the pistons to soaking in combustion chamber cleaner, some other solvents and it did nothing. I think at this point there's nothing left other than pulling the pistons out and re-ringing. Maybe soaking in the GM Ring and Piston Cleaner as it wasn't tried yet, but I'm not optimistic it would work. I guess it was a great lesson and worth giving a try to see if there is something that could save this engine. Actually one of the CR-V engines had a spectacular ending seizing up on the h-wy, as the side of the piston crown completely melted from the high temperature in the combustion chamber. We knew it's going to go, but we didn't anticipated melted piston ;)

I don't know if you have been doing this but I strongly suggest using B12 in the Fuel it will constantly clean your fuel system, valves, pistons and rings. I have a 2002 Honda Acord with a 3.0 V6 Vetc with 378k miles and it is a screamer uses 0 oil and the power band is around 3k to 8k rpm it will give you whiplash... I have been using B12 from the day i got the thing... it ran really ruff when I got it and after 5 full tanks of gas it has ran really smooth, I did readjust the valves when I first acquired the car but it did not do much. the B12 did the trick.

little white taco...I never knew you...but i would've liked to. RIP. I've used Berryman B-12 just before oil change. driving about 60 miles at 4k rpm. and I'm using less oil . I , too, am getting about 800 mi . between dipstick dots. I didn't do all the soaking stuff. enjoy watching your vids'. please , keep going.

Was up until the early hours of the AM watching your entire oil ring saga. Did the Chemtool soak on my M50 BMW and it seems to have helped. Had heavy carbon buildup due to the car running rich for various reasons. I feel this was a nice "reset". No more smoke.

Those SuperTech Oil Filters are made my Champion so they're decent quality. And Warren Oil manufactures the SuperTech Oil along with Kirkland Best Oil which is a decent oil brand so they arent bad products at all.

W means winter and it’s an indication of how well it flows at cold temperatures, lower flows easier. Everyone thinks W means weight, and that its the second number, but that’s flow at operating temperature

The Orange disc... we used to save those when we installed BG... (i know, "installed, LOL) and when the rep came to restock us we got a commission for each disc. It was $2 each back late 80's

Curious about the HPL product as an owner of a oil guzzling 12' Scion Xb. The HPL product is a ester based additive according to the company. I am in the middle of using the Auto-Rx in my car with about 950 miles on it so far. But with the ester based products I understand that it takes a quite a long time to show its effectiveness. Like 4000 miles or so.

BG EPR is mostly cyclohexanone and ethenol, no acetone. I wouldn't expect one can of EPR to fix it, that's more of a "maintenance" clean. I'll be back for the Dynamic engine cleaner. I fixed multiple vehicles with it. The Kirkland oil is Dexos1 Gen 2 certified, top notch oil. 👍

All our cars are manual transmissions, cute watching your daughter driving an automatic for the first time.

My 14 CRV burned from full to add in 3k mi. Poured the EPR and drove 1 hr to Honda dealership for oil change. No more oil burning after that.

LA's Totally Awesome is literally totally awesome. Very aggressive degreaser. The only thing stronger that I've used is Castrol Super Clean, though that was around 20 years ago (not sure if it's been reformulated). If and when it causes damage, it'll depend on how long it needs to run it through the system and clean. Pretty sure it has no heat tolerance, but at least it's super slick. 🤷‍♂

Hey Dave! I’m loving the episode of these series. How about trying a thin PAO or ester base motor oil for an oil change interval like 3k while topping off whatever oil the car burns with the same oil? something like Redline 0w-20 or High Performance Lubricants “Super-car oil” 0w-20? Maybe a stout additive package with a small molecular base oil can clean out whatever gunk is keeping your piston rings stuck. I really hope you’re able to get these rings unstuck!

BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner stopped the oil burn in a friend's 250k mile 06 Dodge Hemi 5.7. It is costly, yet works wonders.

Ok Dave, so what if you "hydrolock" the engine with Berryman? Overfill the engine as much as possible, ideally so fluid is always sitting on and around thr pistons, and just let it soak and sit for a few days.

5:53 - that cap inside the can is a token that techs can save up a bunch and then trade them with the BG "rep" when he comes around for free stuff.

Hi Dave. I live in Europe and I can give you a thumbs up for your effort in finding a solution to this problem that bothers us all on this Earth 😁. I have a Chevrolet Epica ( Suzuki Verona in the US market) and it had the same problem with oil consumption and stuck piston rings. I had tested several products including Liqui Moly which gave zero effects. The most promising was the Carbon X Combustion Chamber Cleaner K1+K2 / P4650 from a company called Bluechem Group from Germany. In Russia I know that they are mostly using piston rings decoker based on dimexide but they have their own brand LAVR ML202. Please be careful with the dimexide as I can see it destroys the engine if a small error is made. Thanks again for the effort you make. Keep going 👏

Happy to see your daughter learning to drive the automatic! Sad to see the Tacoma go that way... Can't wait for the next vid!

That’s crazy I was totally thinking about adding at205 and then I got to the part and you not only mention a resealer, it’s the exact product I was thinking lol. I love at205, I’ve used it in tons of vehicles with great success.

I know everyone thinks that not using a crush washer is all cool and all, but here is what happens: The crush washer is designed to do two things, first and foremost is to take the load off of the threads of the pan, second, the crush washer will contour any imperfections of either the bolt or the pan. Without the crush washer, every time you tighten the drain bolt, it pulls on the threads of the pan. As a retired Honda technician, I saw this all of the time, a $.10 washer is much cheaper than an oil pan, but hey, what do I know?

So refreshing to hear her say driving an automatic is weird 😂🎉❤

The plastic coin in the bottom of the can was a shop incentive program. As a mechanic you collect the coins and turn them into the rep for a gift card.

I've watched most of your videos because my Honda civic has the same problem. I've come to realize that I need to do a ring job to actually fix the oil consumption problem. There's a great video on 'No nonsense know how' where he changes the rings while doing a head gasket job. That's what I'll be doing in the future. All these products you are using are interested but I don't think any of them are fixing the problem, obviously.

Great video! Can’t wait to see what is next. I’m curious to see the “Totally Awesome “ results.

Should also try some either high mileage engine oil or ams oil engine oil, I think the ams oil is advertised to slow oil burning or stop it

Hi Dave, followed all this series with great interest. I have a BMW M54 engine using mega amounts of oil. It is a known problem with these engines, they have defective oil control rings which also get stuck. The car has only done 115,000 miles, and produces no blue smoke under any condition. There are people out there who definitely know their BMW engines who swear that some of these injector cleaner down the spark plug hole operations actually do work. I am going to give it a try because I just cannot afford an engine rebuild. If I get any beneficial results I will leave a comment.

I commented on your video a while back. 150,000 miles on 2011 Acura TSX V6. Losing about a quart of oil every 500 - 600 miles. Drive my car rather hard. Lots of mods. Did two cans of BG and ran engine on 2,000 RPM at 25 minutes. Used two quarts of 5W-30 (calls for 0W-20), did a full engine clean before with some stuff from amazon (Throttle Muscle TM7326 with one quart of 5W-30), kept the oil filter from that. Anyways, did the BG EPR stuff after, and for the first time my oil dipstick didn't look like I mixed my fresh oil with coal (fresh oil change with 0W-20 3 quarts and one quart of 5W-30). Did all three changes hot. Got about 200 miles so far on it, oil is in same spot on dipstick; I did leave overnight some BG EPR in spark plug holes and sat on pistons. Compression on all six cylinders is ~230 within 15 PSI on all 6 (230, 237, 230, 225, 225, 230) cold. Will update in a future video of yours. Thanks for what you do! EDIT: Forgot to mention, I got a LOT of white smoke out the exhaust during my BG EPR burn. After my new and final normal oil change, it was burning white out the exhaust for about 30 miles before it stopped. Mostly at higher RPM's.

I use a zip lok over filter, and a couple strategically placed holes punched with 14" phillips head and a hammer, basically a drip free filter change But loosen a little first you would not want to learn it's gonna be hard to remove after punching a couple holes in it. I get it just loose and punch by edge, then spin that to the 12 o clock position for maximum drain off before removing spill free.

Fantastic with you daughter having to 'learn' an automatic! Sounds funny, but I've been there... I remember climbing up in a 2012 International and not knowing how to drive it (it had a push-button auto)

Just a coupe comments, regarding the DMSO... there should not be paint on the inside of the oil pan..at least any I have seen. So should not be an issue. also.. regarding your daughter ... first awesome you taught her how to drive a manual transmission. Almost a lost art on people today, but a valuable skill to have . I noticed when she was driving the automatic, she had to move her whole leg to go from gas to brake... . really should only need to rotate on her heel, and her toe go from gas to brake pedal... Could be that truck has a very high brake pedal.. I have driven a few cars that were that way. If that is not the case.. then maybe have her move the seat back a little... and move the wheel towards her a bit. Great video series looking forward to seeing what you try next and see what works..

If you use DMSO wear two pairs of vinyl gloves (latex is porous) as DMSO is a solvent that is absorbed through the skin. DMSO is used to transport drugs transdermal (through the skin.) It is used in chronic cystitis of the bladder! It’s also used in cattle and horses as a liniment for joint pain! One treatment that people say works is using DMSO liquid and a brown paper bag. Place the brown paper bag at the joint (knee, elbow, wrist or hip), then pour a small amount of DMSO on the paper bag, wait 30 minutes and remove. Some swear that melting an Aspirin tablet in DMSO and applying the liquid on a joint or muscle group relieves pain. These are treatments I’ve encountered by my patients over the years in nursing. Personally I don’t know if they work or are even safe. Do your research first it’s your body!

You might try running 2 ounces of Yamaha Ring Free per quart quart of oil in the crankcase when next your need to top off the oil and see if it slows the usage.

Once the rings get unstuck, adding more stuff will not rejuvenate worn rings, e.g. surface wear and ring tension weakening.

Plastic bottle cut in half that fits over the filter with a bit of room around and space under the filter to take the oil that escapes. Seen on another KZfaq video, not my idea.

I think this is a case of "your results may very". I have a 2015 Silverado with a 4.3L engine. In January, I did a normally scheduled oil change. In mid April, at 3400 miles I got an "Engine Oil Low" warning and had to add 2 quarts. I spoke with my mechanic who theorized the AFM was possibly causing piston rings to stick. He recommended using the BG treatment followed by BGBG115 Engine Oil Supplement. I used the BG109 per the directions on the can and after putting in the new oil, I added a can of BG115. I have been regularly checking the oil level. By 8 July I had run 2,234 miles since the treatment and the oil level is still holding at the full mark.

I think the Yamalube and the Chemtool B12 constant usage may help control the oil burning and also help clean the pistons and cylinder internals. Pretty awesome video! Thanks.

First of all I enjoyed all your videos. Just want to say that most products on the market make big claims and do very little, as you have found out. My thinking is how long did it take for the carbon to build up around you rings? Along time, heat cycle after heat cycle. This just tells me that 1 little treatment isn't going to work. Instead I suggest Bringing all 4 pistons to the same height in the cylinders after you've gotten the motor hot. Pull the plugs and pour your favorite carbon buster in( about a cup full) let it sit. Next day do the same and maybe a 3rd day. By this time you've given the carbon enough soaking that is should have all melted away. This isn't something that I have done. Had I had your problem, I would have pulled the head , dropped the oil pan and removed the pistons and put new oil rings in. Because buy the time and money you've spent, you could be doing something else. 😊 TY for your videos

If you have a knock in a modern engine that only higher octane will stop you may have combustion chambers packed with carbon I have only seen from a total lack of maintenance i.e. not changing oil plugs etc.

Love this! You should try the BG flush, a bit expensive but would love to see if it'll fix the issue.

31:35 I know that feeling, when you see a car you love get towed away. This most recently happened in.. 2022. Had to let go my "problematic" Infiniti J30. I made a couple videos of walking away from it the last time... I like the music you put to it. Fun fact: I used to work at Toyota.

Your leaking (valve guides) are leaking all the time, while running and while sitting over night and while that BG cleaner is excellent (probably the best) even it will not fix the leaking valve guides!

I would like to recommend fried chicken for dinner.

I still think the dual diesel/gas oil with all the cleaning agents is the good bet for trying for a oil change cycle. SHELL ROTELLA® T6 MULTI-VEHICLE FULL SYNTHETIC

My 2009 1ZZFE doesnt drink a drop of oil, at 125k. Always used synthetic oil. I believe that any engine with a compression ratio of 10:1 or higher, shouldnt use mineral oil. Pistons get too hot for the dino oil.

Some folks in Germany change the engine oil with diesel fuel and let it run for quite some time. Seems to get rid off quite an impressive amount of carbon buildup.

Saw on another channel they poked a hole in the filter to drain the oil 1st then that way the oil doesnt go everywhere when removing it

Your video editing is getting better and better, as someone else also mentioned. Your daughter learning to drive an automatic was pretty funny. My daughter just turned 21 and has never driven a stick, so I'm thinking the she would react about the same... just even more confused. Stick is the best way to learn driving first. I learned to drive a stick when I started working for NAPA as a driver. I grabbed my first order, and headed out to the truck. Got in and thought.... well, I guess there's never a better time to learn than now. I think you've cleaned up the oil rings pretty good, and don't see much room for improvement there. My Theory: Oil splashing around the cam shafts, splashes it everywhere inside the valve cover. There's air moving pretty fast through the PCV, and is getting sucked through there as really small particles, but they add up over time. I highly recommend putting an inline catch to see if you can stop the oil from getting into the intake and burning. Something like an air hose line water capture device would work. And you can see it working too. If there's oil in there, then you know that's the problem. If you do discover that this is the problem, you can have the catch drain back into the oil, preventing it from getting burnt, fixing the problem. Alternatively, you could probably get a brake line clamp and just close the hose off, so nothing can get through. I have 2 vehicles with 1MZ-FE's that are close to a similar year, and they don't seem to burn any oil. They're totally different engines, but still Toyota of the same era. Edit (adding this part): Oh, the carbon is normal for any engine. It should be very dry however, 1, 3 and 4 seem to have standing oil in them. Looking at the PCV hose going into the throttle body, 2 is on the bottom, so it is less likely to receive the oil from throttle body, as the inlet for the PCV hose is on the top, and the suction will pull it into 1,3 and 4 before falling all the way down to 2 which seems to be one of the bottom pipes.

I think your engine is as clean as it is going to get at this point to be honest. Noting short of new pistons and rings will reduce the oil burning.

The ring in the can is for techs to make a little money from bg rep at dealership or smaller garage. Depending on product $.50 - $1.00 a ring

I tried Diesel flush for my 2008 Camry with 2azfe engine. It has reduced oil burning issue upto some extent. Great video.

Yes DMSO will eat paint away, so stripping oil pan is a must. But it will dissolve any carbon on piston rings. Also it smells pretty bad and make sure not to get on your skin. Couple layers of gloves will help.

Manual transmission are now just a anti theft device option Also the super tech oil. Filters are made by champion labs. Who makes STP filters and ACDelco and a lot of the quick lube places house filters

I believe adding that AT-205 reseal could of diluted the oil and made it more liquid which would be burned faster, so tough to say if this test counts.

Change both O2 sensors in the exhaust. If your catalytic converter did it smell like rotten eggs during their testing when your cat is not plugged. This should take care of your check engine light for your catalytic converter and possibly solve your burning oil problem. The readings at your O2 sensors are getting it's causing the motor to throw more gas into the burning cycle causing it to get hot and burn more oil.

I think you should just rebuild it dude or just drive it until it gives I mean this does help with content creation is so whatever makes you happy and whatever you want to do but I don't think the chemicals going to help when it's so far going and so grouped up it's hard to get to the rings

i've been following your channel a while now. Your recording and editing skills are top of the line, and you're music is the best.I love it.

I would say that stuff does work over multiple applications of using the product. Unfortunately that is mostly for vehicles that start consuming oil. In the long run your cross hatching is probably gone and that is what is causing the issue now.

Hey man love the bg. I believe you should use the 44k 1 tank. Change the oil with bg epr 109 flush. Fill up with oil and use the bg moa. Then see how she does. I’m hearing the 5w-30 is to thick for the oil rings. Many of Toyota’s fixes have been 0w-20 and 0w-16. Not specific to your engine. However the oil rings are low tension. Try 5w-20.

Diy dave....urgent bulletin....ive got an audi q7 2014 ridiculous oil consumption....just solved it...put in half big bottle of mmo half seafoam n half cup wd40 because of its sludge rust destroying nature..that ran until oil light came back on...also the mixture was added when low oil was on....low oil on put 1 cup of wd40 alone...holy moly..engine so quiet its new again couldn't believe it...mind blowing because its skways been running little loud...im going to do an oil change n watch trip odo...think that did something amazing

I have HPL EC in my 200k Honda right now, everything I've seen says EC does clean, but a very mild clean. The company behind it said they didn't want anyone putting it in a heavily sludged motor oil to clog the oil filter/pump screen. They said its been designed assuming the worst case scenario, so the cleaning is mild. I've seen several oil filters online after folks used it, it cleans some just not crazy. It is ester based which is known to clean, its a base oil used in a lot of high end boutiques oils. Speaking of which would be great to look inside the oil filter after each experiment to see if the product cleaned a noticeable amount of carbon. The filter cutters are $20 online, its not difficult or time consuming to do, I own one myself.

For smaller filters I use a disposable plastic cup to spin the filter off. Catches every drip of oil.

Used to work for Fiat Chrysler dealer as a tech and we had a contract with BG to sell their products/services. If we collected those orange tokens in the can and gave them to the BG guy when he stopped by, we'd get $1 for each orange token.

Verry interesting vídeos, I have a sugestion, the next time you scope the cylinders put each piston at the bottom and take a look at the cross hatch, or evidenve of shiny cilinder walls it is verry important not just the oil control rings. See you in the next video.

That orange disk is collected by mechanics and they get goodies for how many of these they redeem.

Have ypu tried lucas oil stabilizer? I belive if you try about 20% of that to 80% oil you will find out if the oil is getting past the rings because it will slow the oil loss. If not install a catch can after.

Another trick that might work like the bag is use a soda bottle, cut the bottom of and you can use the top like a funnel to catch the oil in the drain pan