😂😂

@@sleepybear7642 I do the same thing to all the used cars I have bought; I do it one a month for a year though .

This is one of the great things about having an oil burning car, you are constantly putting new oil in.

As any older well used auto should. My 83 rolla wagon appreciates it every 2-2.5k miles, or two weeks when I drove it hard everyday. Originally I wanted to yank out the 4ac anchor, but after an in depth tune up I couldn’t bring myself to separate her from its home. Well over 430,000 confirmed miles before the odometer slowed to a stop. Lol. She’s driven to Vancouver Canada then to Tijuana and back north. The top of pikes peak and crater lake. Battled the summer heat in central Ca for 4 months hauling about 12,000lbs. I have done my part to kill her but she still never misses a beat. Becky is my dirty little Brazilian girl.

@@thomas316 lol I once owned a ford f150 that was like this Corolla it loved to drink oil. I finally got tired of buying oil for it and started using used oil I would drain out of my other engines ( yes lawn mowers as well as cars ). Drove this thing for several years like this, was still running when I sold it. If the body was in better shape I would have replaced the engine, but the body was getting pretty rough.

Thanks! That's what I'm hoping!

This!!!

I agree, I'm looking forward to the yamalube episode

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY BTW. "Poking a hole in the oil filter" is for top mount oil filters, and not for bottom mounts like yours.

Thanks for the input. Just trying to prove or disprove the "snake oils" here. ... Still, we have reduced consumption from 1.25 quarts in 300 miles to 1.25 quarts in 800-1000 miles ... so something seems to have worked -- a little.

@@shermanbird3248 I wish I had the young body to go with the accumulated learning. Youth is so wasted on the young.

Mine and two friends 1985 Toyota truck's ate 2.5qts/3K oil change. Toyota stated "within specs." I traded mine for a Chevy 3500 and my other friend a F-350. Neither ate oil and were dependable. My other friend marched outside of Toyota of Carlsbad for a week with a sign that read "My truck eats 2.5qts of oil every 3,000 miles. How about yours?" He got a new shortblock. The tech stated that Toyota got a bad batch of piston rings that didn't exert enough outward pressure on the cylinder walls preventing them from working properly. Stuff happens Toyota. That's why I bought a vehicle from you.

Dealership mechanics are always so uppity and sure of themselves. Lol. Well I'm here to say you're wrong. You cam get rings free and stop consumption (half the time), even on those low tension rings. Pull the plugs, mix 2 parts B-12 chemtool and 1 part auto Trans fluid together and pour a few ounces into each cylinder, then cover the holes. Every 4 hours or so rotate the engine by hand both directions a bit and add a few more ounces so the pistons stay covered. Keep doing this for a weekend, then crank over the engine with the starter and the plugs still out to blow any liquid out of the cylinders and then reassemble, change the oil immediately, and watch in awe that your oil burning ceased without having to tear the engine apart. Its not rocket science. Keep all the carbon deposits that are sticking the rings soaked in a solution that disolves and softens carbon for a long enough amount of time and eventually the rings arent stuck.

Thank you Toyota expert. This should end it for all those who over glorify Corollas...

Thats pretty slick! No pun intended! Gonna try that.

Brilliant!

whats wrong spelling a little oil while changing filters, you fingers fall of after that?

Red Solo cup I fill you up let's have a party! 😂 Tony Keith I guess. 😢

Thanks for this. Rubber gloves and placing the oil drain tub are not the most effective methods, I still always end up spilling a few drops.

Thanks, will do!

Thank you! Cheers back at you, Thomas!

Thanks! And BG EPR might be after Yamalube.👍

Did it reduce oil consumption for you, Jeff?

Thank you so much for your kind comment!!

Anywhere from a 1/2 a quart to a full qt of oil will remain in an engine, you are seeing the mix of old and new. It is known in the industry as a Short Volume Oil Change.

His "testing" is more anecdotal than scientific. He even essentially admits "he should've checked codes, it's been idling more because it's cold.... I might need a new thermostat.. I don't know how to do a compression test.." Not sure why I even watched this. Feels like time I'll get never get back. ....and I'll stick to project farm and better done testing.

Thank YOU for the input. Good stuff to mull over.

So not much different from B12

@@hotrodray6802 Pretty much. From the few of these I've looked into, they're all about the same outside of select anti-wear additives and varying percentages in content. It's not much of a surprise really; there's only so many compounds that will combust in the engine and act as a mild chem-based 'abrasive' carbon remover without gumming up in the fuel system in liquid form or harming downstream sensors. My suspicion is that the order of B12 versus this one wouldn't have changed the outcome as they're only going to do so much. There are more aggressive cleaners that would work, except that they would detrimentally affect other systems moreso than thinning out the oil.

Oh, it's ***organic*** peroxides

Chem mfgs will use masking agents in their formulations to hide other obvious odors. I bet your smelling Winter Green, same stuff in Marvel Mystery Oil. Does it smell like it?

Great tip!

Straight through or just indents?

@@Yohane350 straight through

Thanks for that clue! The MR2 S has the worst dip stick i have ever seen

Thanks!

Lol me too

Greetings, and thanks for the recommendation!

Try the BG brand engine cleaners and such... That's my number 1 brand in my garage

No

Why ​@@LITTLEROCK2517

I do the same

Glad to hear it!

What did the 505 cro oil pour in treatment do for you,?

Thanks for watching!

Thanks again, Powerman :-)

It might turn out to have a single broken ring causing the issue.

@@texaspowerman I guess that's possible.🤔

Thanks :-) I actually did the valve stem seals a few videos back.

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Ahh I'm sorry, my short memory comes to short 😅

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY My pleasure 😊

Sounds more like weak or too soft of piston rings,tom

That's awesome, Rod. 👍 Please do keep us posted on how your consumption goes!

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY After I treated the carI shut down for the day. I still need to clean the throttle body the next morning before I clanged the oil. I still had some oil additive left and after cleaning the throttle body added it while it was still running. and let it sit until it was just warm. I have close to a 1000 miles on it now and it's just under the full mark about 1/16 of an inch! Remarkable on how much that helped! It should make the whole 7000 miles to the next oil change without adding any. I check it every day. In your car I would take about a 1/2 oz and pour it in the cylinder on top of the piston and let it sit overnight on a warm engine, then blow it out by cranking the engine over the next morning without the plugs in it. I believe your rings and oil scraper are frozen in place and will be next to impossible to free up. Might try this as a last ditch effort to try?

What cleaner did you use?

Thanks Peter!

Berryman's B12 is $5 per can, tax included. Half the price of the infamous Seafoam. 🙄

Plus $14 shipping. They went up in price like madness.

Worth it if it works vs $2000 or more for an engine rebuild

@@miriamvivo4279 of course it does. I’m with you. I bought 12 of each more than a year ago. It helped the startup of my engine a lot but seeing this video maybe B12 could have done the same for me.

Liqui Moly?

Great to hear!

Right there with you. With a 07 Scion TC...same miserable 2.4

2000 Celica...same!

I have a 2006 that has 273,000 miles, which probably burns a little bit of oil, but not that much. I wish they didn't discontinue the car. Would have loved an updated drivetrain with a similar body design.

Ditto. 2009 Camry - f'd piston drain holes 😔

We use it at the Honda dealership I work at. We run it at ~3000 rpm for at least 30 minutes with the cleaning and rinse oil with a new filter each time.

I own a 2019 Corolla with 70,000 miles. I recently started using BG EPR as preventative maintenance. Yeah, it is expensive but the BG products are some of the very few that have a lot of evidence to back them up a lot of very good reviews and I’ve seen some crazy pictures of before and after. I got mine for only $11 each on Amazon because I bought a four pack for like $44.

Toyota actually HAD a campaign for the dealer rebuilding the engine (replace pistons) under factory warranty up to 150,000 miles on the clock, IIRC. New updated pistons ARE the only cure!

To burn oil.

Much appreciated!

They're completely different products. One (ATS 505) breaks down carbon in the engine. The other (AT-205) is meant to fix leaky gaskets by 'reconditioning' the gasket material.

Thanks ... and yes, keep us posted on the consumption!

Your joking right?

Thanks for the tips Robert 👍

What?

Got a shipment coming to me right now!

I've personally seen cars come in with the full expectation of an engine replacement and leave that day after BGs EPR and/or Dyna Flush

​ @DIY Dave BG makes a few products, could you provide a link? Thanks

@@DzevatS www.bgprod.com/catalog/engine/bg-epr-engine-performance-restoration/

@@DzevatS Its sold through its licensed distributors only. But you can find it on Amazon

Thx. You run B-12 in the crankcase or gas?

@@aidankirby8412 In the gas.

I haven't yet, but thanks for the suggestion!

I've been thinking a lot about the diesel oil. So many people have recommended DMSO, which I found is an additive in Rotella. That is definitely on my list. I'd have to do the flush and oil in two separate videos though, so that we'd know which variable had the most effect. Thanks for the recommendations!

Please do keep us posted!

Did it work?

It is a multi stage process with the Pro Maintenance Additives kit. So far I have done the 1st initial engine flush at max concentration, & burned through about 20 gal of fuel with the max concentration of decarbonizer. They recommend 1st 50 gal of fuel at max concentration with the FTC Decarbonizer, then cut back half for continued use. With the engine flush, it is an initial higher dose using fresh oil, then a half dose after 600 to 1200 miles after the 1st flush to give the decarbonizer in the fuel time to do its job in the combustion chambers. I'm almost at the 600 mile mark since the initial flush, & hope to do the follow up flush in a week or so. That will be interesting because you can drive for up to 6hrs on the 2nd flush with the chemical in the crankcase. After that, they have dosage recommendations for continued maintenance flushes. I was very surprised by how black the fresh new oil came out after the 1st flush considering you change the oil & filter in your car before you do the flush, then change them both again after before you drive. My oil was only at 800 miles & not very dirty looking before the flush with fresh oil & filter, & had previously done an oil flush with the 505CRO. I just got on my 3rd tank of gas with the FTC Decarbonizer. My tank roughly holds 13 gal. So I have this one & 2 more to burn through at full strength for optimal results. I just started noticing a difference halfway through the 2nd tank. Not nearly as much blue smoke at idle, a little better on mpg, better response. But the interesting thing is I had a couple of instances where I was on the freeway & noticed a big puff of smoke from my rear view, & my check engine light came on. Everything was running fine & actually felt more pep after. The code read a p420 for catalytic sensor, but went away on its own before I even got home. Wondering if they were little chunks of carbon that passed through the headers & burnt up in the cat? Apologies for the long response, but so far it's too early to tell. I am or was still burning oil up till now but has only been 2 weeks since I started the process. I'll be using the borescope to look at the piston heads & cylinder walls after the 2nd oil flush in the next week or so. Should be close to or on the 4th tank of decarbonizer by then too. The car still runs which is #1. Hopefully it's getting a lot cleaner in the meantime. Will keep you posted.

@@NorthernMoss81 The more info the better 👍🏻 thanks for keeping us in the loop 🙂

Glad you liked it!

@@johnkelly4381 I am trying to get the things clean having disassembled engines for head gasket issues or something else that causes a water issue in the cyl . When you take it apart they are clean , and rings moving. Have had a 380sl that was going to also have a rear main seal, but it stopped leaking after the water treatment. When I was a kid old guys took a pop bottle of water and put it through the carb at 3-4000 and all a 16 oz glass recycle bottle would hold. Clouds of steam and carbon spattered from the exhaust

Thanks for the input!

do you typically lie?

9200 V2 is even better :)

Ceratec , AR9400, Oilsyn ReleaseTech Power Flush 40 minuty

@@alouisschafer7212 I believe 9200 v2 is more of a protectant only and as far as i can tell its not sold in america at all, the 9200 and 9300 may be discontinued... whereas the 9100 is a "cleans and protects" product. The 9100 should be superior for unsticking things... and is available on amazon, ebay, etc

😂