Thanks!!! Usually I bring my tool cart down with me too and keep things more organized, otherwise I find I spend more time looking for the parts and tools than doing the actual job. Cheers!

Best of luck, that’s how I was with mine. Had trouble on the front end, winded up doing cv axles twice, torsion keys, struts, wheel bearings, and control arms. Nice thing is it feels like a new ride now, lol. Cheers!

Thanks! yes sir, I have done bushings on this one and had to do the lower controls arms on my h3t, neither are a bad job. Since this video, I cranked up the front torsion bar, lifted the rear shackle, added a 1" body lift and went up to 35" tires. The wheels in the video were 20" rims, 33" tires. There was no scrubbing at all which surprised me bc the wheel offset was pretty far at -56. When I went up to 35" they did scrub bad and still barely hit if in reverse at full lock because of the wheel offset. If I was to do it over, I would use a wheel with less "poke" maybe like a -18mm offset bc that is what I put on the Humvee and I think it looks really good with no scrub. Cheers!

The h3 is very limited on what you can do for lifts. They have torsion bars in the front so you can simply crank up your stock torsion key on each side of the front and get about 2" of height safely. The problem is if you continue to go higher, the CV axles will be at a bad angle and cause excessive strain and wear. The rear is easy, you can get 2 or 3" lift shackles all over the place. I got mine off amazon or eBay. Two brands I used with good luck were Wulf Suspensions and Ready Lift. The biggest suggestion I would have is getting a good shock to go with it instead of what some companies do and sell the shock extenders. Bilstein 5100 series worked perfect on mine. I have them on both my H3 and my H3T. Cheers!

You know I totally forgot I have a 1” body lift on it too. Lots of videos showing how to install on yt. Daystar was the only brand in stock otherwise I would have done 1.25” or 1.5” body lift.

Thanks for the tip brother!