Just finished this...hardest part is definitely the waterpump/lower inner timing belt cover, it's just poorly placed and a snug fit. Everything else is pretty straightforward. I recommend getting a quality T30 bit. I sheared a bunch trying to get the cam position wheels off the back of the cams. Went through a bunch of dewalts, milwaukee's, and craftsmans...Makita's did it easy with my impact gun. Projectfarm also has a good video showing some of the best torx bits. For those that like to do everything by the book in terms of torques. 180Nm for the 30mm crank nut. The 4 bolts on the vibration dampener are torqued to 25Nm then an additional 60 degrees. U shape mount on the motor mount that bolts to the body is 90Nm. The engine mount to the engine bracket is 133Nm. Rear cam position wheels are 20Nm. Tensioner and Idler are both 24Nm. Waterpump and Oil pump are 10Nm. Cam gears to cams are 120Nm. Cam gear plugs are 35Nm. That should cover all the important torques.

This was my first time finding an FCP video. I've done lots of car work on my own, and watched tons of how-to videos, and have never seen anything close to this detail of steps taken, and great camera work as well. Well done!!

youtube university at its finest. Pure GOLD!

This was super useful. Managed to change the belt on my Volvo C70 and I knew almost nothing about cars (until now!). Water pump removal and cam position wheel bolts were by far the hardest parts

Eternally grateful for this video I've worked on cars for a couple of years but this was my most intricate one yet. Watching this video at least 5 times throughout gave me the confidence to do it. I will also include the fact that the timing tensioner dial has to be maxed out to the right side then brought back to appropriate temperature adjustment and the cam locking tool is absolutely critical..for information sake I did a 2008 c70 with this information.. Thank you

36:35 Carefully wrap duct tape around the crank spline, staggered pieces so it makes a smooth transition to the final step and resting place of the crank seal. Lube up your duct taped spline and ease the oil pump on it, carefully watching to make sure the crank seal does not turn inside out. I did this and it was easier than being a dentist with a pick, those seals are delicate and have an "o" spring inside, when it pops out its kinda hard to get it back in carefully. FCP Euro your the best! I love you guys!

I work on a lot of Cars , this might be the best most thorough and detailed video I have ever seen , thanks a Milllion .. !!

Great video ! If anything, this should convince a volvo novice that this may not be the job you want to tackle without the right service tools and a very clear understanding of the job and its caveats. Pull the plugs and slowly rotate the engine twice before verifying that all the marks are lined up, No mistakes !

Really tempted to give this a go considering the entire timing belt kit on FCP Euro is like 300 bucks vs paying for parts and 1k in labor... Great video.

Best way to support these great people is to buy from theme. They do have very fair prices and the customer service is top notch too. My S60 was restored thanks to FCP Euro's videos and parts. Now iim looking to do the same on an S40.

Wow, what a great tutorial! This is the video I've been waiting on. After six months of having a timing belt kit sitting on the ol' workbench, its going onto the car! thank you fcp for all you do for us diy'ers. Keep on keeping on+

FINALLY! I've been waiting for a long time for a video of this quality on this job. THANK YOU!!!!

The cam facing side of the sensor wheels are marked IN and EX for intake and exhaust, for those who can't find their sharpie.

YOU SAVED MY LIFE WITH THIS VIDEO. IM A MOM AND POP SHOP TECH AND WE DONT GET MANY VOLVOS BUT YOU MADE THIS FIX EASY TO FOLLOW AND EVERYTHING WAS WELL EXPLAINED. YA HIRING LOL?

This video sets the standard. Pure excellence!

Please do a front subframe removal video next please! I havent found any writeups especially for the AWD p1 Volvos! Its extremely useful for getting to our downpipe and front sway bar as well!

That easy, hey!! Amazing video very well done as all FCP productions done by these gifted young professionals. Thanks a lot.

Thanks for the video - made me decide to pass on a C30 needing this work...

Gotta do the work on mine soon, this video helps out a lot! Glad I found this big lump of information plus the website has everything I need.

So I tried something interesting, I had an AI transcribe this video. Then I had ChatGTP write detailed instructions in the form of bullet points that are easy to follow as you do the job so you don't have to keep going back to the video unless you get stuck somewhere. I'm sure it has missed some details, but the point is for someone like me who has a terrible memory and possibly ADHD to be able to stay on task during a long and tedious task. Here it is, I'm probably going to watch through the video one more time and make some edits and add some details in the near future. I hope you find this useful or at least interesting. Replacing Timing Belt and Cam Seals on a P1 Volvo: Preparation: Gather tools: wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 16mm, 19mm), Allen keys, torx bits (T25, T30, T55), screwdrivers, pliers, dead blow hammer, ratchet, sockets, torque wrench. Obtain replacement parts: timing belt, cam seals, gaskets, Loctite, antifreeze/coolant. Removal: Disconnect the negative battery terminal for safety. Lift the car's front and secure with jack stands. Remove the front passenger-side wheel. Timing Belt Removal: Detach accessory belts (AC, power steering) from pulleys. Remove engine underbody panel. Loosen and remove engine mount. Remove upper front cover and crankshaft pulley. Unscrew timing belt covers' fasteners and remove covers. Mark camshaft sprockets and timing components. Loosen tensioner and remove old timing belt. Remove camshaft sprockets. Cam Seals Replacement: Remove old cam seals using pick or screwdriver. Install new cam seals evenly using seal installation tool. Clean camshaft and seal bore area thoroughly. Reinstall camshaft sprockets, aligning with marks. Timing Belt Installation: Install new timing belt, aligning with reference marks. Temporarily position tensioner and adjust tension. Tighten tensioner bolt securely. Double-check timing mark alignment. Cam Phaser Installation: Install exhaust and intake cam phasers. Tighten cam phaser bolts using T30 torx bit. Reassembly: Reinstall engine mount and tighten bolts. Reconnect wiring harnesses, hoses, brackets. Securely install timing belt covers. Reattach crankshaft pulley and upper front cover. Reinstall accessory belts. Lower the car and reinstall passenger-side wheel. Fill coolant reservoir with antifreeze/coolant mixture. Cooling System Burping: Start engine to let air escape from cooling system. Monitor coolant level and add more as needed. Final Checks: Inspect timing mark alignment. Torque front wheel nuts properly. Ensure all connections are secure. Inspect engine bay for leaks or unusual noises. Always refer to the specific service manual for accurate procedures and torque specifications.

Heck that was sick, was about to buy S40, first gen phase 2, but after watching how you much tear half of the car apart to change the timing belt I must reconsider :D

Correct place to look the Camshaft timing mark are on the top plastic cover, when it is in place. The factory marks are located there. Never trust the previous markings, if some one else has done those.

Nate this was one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen. I think I can do this with your great help. Thank you.

VERY GOOD VIDEO I LIKE HOW KNOWLEDABLE THIS PERSON IN VIDEO IS

From France.... Biggest thx to you for your work!!!

Volvooooo!!! Finally. Thanks

Just completed this job thanks to this video. Amazing resource thanks so much for uploading it. One thing which would have helped was how much coolant is needed. I didn't buy enough😢... excellent video though

Thank you very much Nate and FCP Euro for your excellent tutorial video. You make a difficult job look easy. God bless you.

Awesome video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 I have a C30 R-Design and I have to do this work on it. Thank you so much for this incredible tutorial video! Peace!

Leaking cam seals often are due to a groove worn into the surface of the vvt sprocket's lip and not necessarily a failed rubber seal. Replacing the seals in that scenario will not fix your leak. The groove has to be removed or covered with a sleeve. There are often "ready sleeves" available for this problem.

Great video! really clears up everything the service procedures do not cover! Thank you!

Should you run into the issue of not being able to get the cam position sensor bolt removed, you do not need to weld anything to it as mentioned. Just drill it out. Once the head of the bolt is drilled, the shaft can be removed by hand or with a pliers. 5 minutes each. Remove the battery to gain better access to the exhaust bolt.

👏 👏 👏 so thorough. We need more of this!

Wow!!!!! Fantastic video. Best instructional video ever! Congrats! I wish you had a video teaching how to replace the vvt hub.

Great video, best I've seen for a timing belt. One question though - Why do you need to mark the sprockets if the cams are locked at TDC? I would think that if you release the tensioner, take off the old belt and replace the new one with the cams locked then once you unlock the cams you would have to be good to go, right?? Thx!

Great video here! Now all I need is to get the correct tools and I'm on my way! Thanks for this very informative video!

Great vid. I want to understand it but I don't think I could do it myself. I got 50000km more to go.

Snap 3 t30 the second t30 striped the intake cam bolt. The last one was a impact t30 with a impact gun and it snapped doing those rear cam bolts tried my forth t30 and a impact driver a hammer and I even used a torch with PB blaster and it still didn't come loose not sure who did this before but last resort is definitely welding a nut cause this is stupid for sure

Fantastic video perfect camera work and editing, keep it up frends

Great video, love fcpeuro

I watched this about 9 times. About to knock it out.

When putting the gaskets in place you can use a light mist of spray-on glue to hold them on to the pumps for a much easier install.

This is such a great tutorial! I saw a few torque specs on the blog but it would be nice to have them all since there are many critical fasteners removed and re-installed during this procedure. I've done this job on my P2 S60 and although it is possible to push in the cam seals by hand or using a PVC coupler, that tool you use in this video is well worth the money when you consider you only really get one chance to put the seal in right. Do the cam sprocket bolts have red thread locker from the factory? That seems like it could be a problem if those sprockets need to come off again in the future. The red thread locker is tough to break and those bolts are already difficult to remove. Great job. Thanks!

I like to do the oil filter housing and thermostat along with this, complete refresh for my glorious T5s'

What can you do if the engine is running but not timed correctly, and you want to retime it correctly. Great video, keep up the good work.

Great video watching this gave me the courage to take apart a Volvo. One question I had was Does the green gasket for the oil pump come in the kit? Edit: I did buy this kit from you. Wish I just sourced out what I needed myself could have saved some money. However this was a good videos so I guess buying from you isent my worst decision. If anyone is wondering this kit does not come with the front seals for the oil pump. Bought a felpro set dirt cheap. It does for some strange reason come with the rear main seal... why I have no idea

Thank you so much for your video and your explanation of the process❤️

I need to correct you about the procedure about the vvt... The correct way to set up the timing and the vvt's, is to set at dtc the cranckshaft with the special tool, locked the camshafts at the back of the head with the special tool also, as you did. Install all the pulleys and sprockets, BUT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE VVT BOLTS LOOSE. Install the timing belt all around, tighten it as spec AND THEN YOU CAN TIGHTEN THE VVT BOLTS. If you tighten the bolts before installing the belt, you'll be pushing or pulling the belt with the cam sprockets and will be not perfectly aligned and synchronized with the crankshaft. This same procedure is used other brands and models...

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, information, and skill.

huge help just about to do my water pump in the 2002 C70

Congrats my friend..great explanation and DIY...perfect...thanks a lot...

Do you have a video of replacing the head? My D5 S80 head cracked and debating whether I want to have a go at it myself or send it off to the mechanic

This is a great video. But setting up an engine rebuild I've noticed my intake cam (locked off with the proper tool at the back) that the sprocket is off about half a tooth. From what I understand here is, the cams are set and really, other than convenience of the timing mark, the sprocket position doesn't matter? As such can I undo the sprocket and move it back half a tooth before putting the belt on, then tightening the sprocket after setting the tension?

Awesome video!!! Thank you. I'm a fan!

This is a awesome DIY!!! GREAT WORK!!!

Now that I saw how it's done, I'm not going to do it. Ouch, it is kind of tricky.

You don't really have to mark the sprockets once you have locked the cams in place with the special looking tool. They don't have any grooves to position them in relation to the cams. Once the belt is tensioned correctly just torque them to spec. It's in someway like the BMW/Mini/Peugeot n13/ep6 engine when it comes to the timing sistem reassembly.

Thanks for the great video! Wonder how would you set the camshaft sprocket position when you've had to replace them with new ones??? Thanks again!

Please RSVP...I want this Guy to do it!! Very Very Smart Mechanic

IF YOU FILL YOUR COOLANT AS SHOWN IN THIS VIDEO YOU CAN BLOW YOUR ENGINE. The thermostat doesn't allow water through and the engine could be run dry if the air is not bled out. To do it you have to pull the upper radiator hose off and fill into radiator.

If The cam lock tool does not fit on perfectly, you may have to turn the crank another revolution. The slots in the ends of the cams are off center a bit, and the corresponding blades in the tool are as well.

So hypothetically speaking if one were to strip the intake cam t30…. The procedure now becomes return the cam seals and just do the belt and water pump?

Is the cam looking tool really necessary? As i saw on another video there are timing marks all over the engine for the crank shaft pulley and for the cam gears too..the cam gear marks are on the plastic cover that you take off towards the cylinder number 1. So if you aling your cam gears to the mark on the plastic cover and crank shaft to the mark on the block. You are good.

Excellent video looks like a big job

"The Devil is in the Details", nicely done, If I have this done at the dealership (Sarasota), will they follow the same procedures using the same tools? Thanks for this video.

Nice video..thank you. What if i rolled the cam wheel backwards while putting on cam lock tool?

bro crazy how detailed you are about everything that means nothing.. but the 1 thing you didn't touch on.. a very important thing. the tensioner pulley, how you have to max it out and bring it back into the window from the right side. while keeping tension on the bolt so it wont move? pls say its not important, cause i slowed your video to see if maybe you didn't do it.. wrong.,. you did. funny how you missed that and how you speed it up so it would be missed.. you work for Volvo? this what you call job security.. but hay you got all the details needed about the notch it sits in.. fyi no reply needed, just letting you know how very much your video helped, ish.. have a good one

Great video.. thank you 🇹🇷🇹🇷

I´m so grate for your explanation. Thank you!

Just finished a timing job on a 2008 C30 T5. I’m off 1 tooth on the exhaust cam sprocket. P0017 set, gonna have to retime the engine again.

Thank you so much!

Video really helped thanks

Great video...thank you. I do have a question. I have got belt off and timing belt parts on. I am doing cam seals. The cam sprockets moved off mark while putting on cam lock tool on back. Can i just put everything back on marks and put belt on? The crank stayed on mark because i had it wedged with 30m and bar. I have not yet taken sprockets off to put on seals.

GET A NEW LOWER TIMING BELT COVER. These cars are old enough where they will flake apart. The idler pulley SITS ON TOP OF THE PLASTIC! 46:20

The cam phasers torx bolts should be replaced every time they are removed. My dealer and a mechanic said so and after stripping the head on one myself and having to extract it I wish I would have known that and orderd them with my parts as I had to wait the whole weekend til the dealer parts opened. Also a good idea as they are touchy from stripping to breaking. For $7 for two cheap insurance. Part # 987959

I am getting impression that it is much harder to work around S40 (or P1 in general) in comparison with P2. Specifically I looked at timing belt job and PCV fix on 2001-2009 S60 and looks like it is somewhat less complicated. Am I right?

the kit you sell for this job also seems to come with the rear crank seal. video coming? lol

Amazing video, do you think it's the same process for a 2014 volvo s60 t5?

Wauw perfect instruction. Thumbs up👍

Give thanks BOSS

Hello, great video and good job. Is it possible to insert subtitles? English and Polish, thank you.

Any advice to get the 30mm crank nut off? I'm using a high quality impact driver with no luck. So far have only tried PB blaster and haven't tried heat. Wondering what else I can try to break this thing loose. Thanks in advance!

great video, but the Volvo I have has a single VVTI sprocket. I'm having trouble finding the timing marks

Thanks 🙏

Excellent thank you

Hello! Thank you for a really informative and detailed video. Do you remember the engine code of that car you was working with?

So my mechanic suggested to change it since it is 15 years old and 95000km. But he didn't even open it to see what it looks like. A bit weird isnt it?

My volvo s40 2004 aircon doesnt work properly by blowing cool air during mid day. Only cool in mornings. I did check the aircon gas is ok.

Ok I'm curious. If your just replacing the water pump do you need to hold everything in position as in the video?

Thanks a lot for the help! I'll do it in spring on a 99 C70 5254t LPT. Is there anything to consider in comparison to the S60 P1? Greetings from 🇦🇹/Vienna.

Hey, Nate, great Video!! My son brought a replacement motor for his XR5 turbo and I have noticed that the timing marks don't line up! The intake side lines up to the mark and the exhaust side is at about 3 o'clock position: Question what should I check before replacing the timing belts and seals! Thank you

Is the Idle Tensioner Pulley supposed to have about 2-3mm in-out movement? My xr5 turbo with the same engine has started making a bad rattle noise and I've checked everything else and it seems fine besides the in-out movement on the Timing Tensioner

Thank god I’m doing this with the engine out because this looks like a nightmare in place

Thanks for video. Is it possible to have a timing issue if I shredded my alternator belt? as I can’t get my Volvo to fire up after shredding my alternator belt.

im changing my timing belt for the first time has done 65k miles. Will there be a markings for the timing belt?

Can you tell me if there is a rear camshaft seal on both intake and exhaust mine had none my kit came with one, and when you did your belt bump count across the top what did you come up with 18 and what was your count down to the bottom of crank. by the way awesome video got mine running but turns off after a minute or two??????

Hello, I would like you to help me with some information: the oil meter rod of my car (Volvo V40 2002) is made of plastic and it broke in half, leaving one half inside. I would like to know if it ends up in the crankcase? Is it advisable to move the car like this? If it can cause serious damage? Your guidance would be of great help to me, please 😢

I bought my timing belt water pump etc kit from you. It doesn't include the camshaft plugs like you indicated in the video

Damn hella work! 😩

I have a 2013 s60 and it looks exactly the same can I follow these same steps?