Heck yeah, they're great first vehicles. My first was a red '87 single cab long-bed 2wd and I drove the wheels off that thing

Yup they're great vehicles, just getting old enough now to start needing complete restorations. One piece at a time lol thanks for the comment 🙂

Yup drove me crazy too, till I figured out what was causing the noise 🤣🤣 anymore I'm leaning towards graphite based lubes since they don't attract dust

Yeah I've heard about that technique, gonna have to try it! I've heard it's even harder on the 2nd gens though

@@hotrod4d Oh yeah forget about the 2nd gens lol

Good things to mention! The dashes have lots of fun breakable parts in/under there 😅

@@hotrod4d i also forgot to mention the turn signal and hazard relays and the turn signal and hazard switches in the column luckily my switches came alive with some qd contact cleaner after i replaced the relays for the turn signals and hazards which were bad as well

@@Initial_Gopnik yeah pretty much anything electronic or plastic is going to be super delicate and possibly corroded. I just tell people to grab as many of those parts as you can when you find them in junkyards

Help ! Change ignition on 84 S15

Check out this link, it may answer some of your questions! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gsuch5Nl2JObo30.htmlsi=pB1SR9Hqidra3p-v

Of course, I'll be happy to help any way I can 👍

Stock engine or V8 swapped?

@@hotrod4d stock 2.5 V6. i

@@hernxnperez9567 I'd start with the fuel system first, the tbi system on those was known for the spider injectors failing and the fuel pumps like to die too. Also check the vacuum system to make sure everything is plugged in and not leaking cus these things hate vacuum leaks

On one of my stock units I took the hood off so I could see if the injectors were acting weird while driving and sure enough they acting funky under acceleration. The fuel pumps themselves are also temperamental too but the cat being clogged might also cause similar problems. Fuel, air, and spark; once you find which one of these the engine lacks you find your problem

@hotrod4d thankyou. I'm going to look I to this and thanks for such a fast reply.

@@C4H3R1GO04 of course, I appreciate the channel engagement and am always happy to help out a fellow s10 lover

​@hotrod4d hey bud, it's been awhile. Ran into new peoblem. No crank no start. Turns our it's bad ignition switch. Trying to replace it. Plastic sensors that screw into brake pedal having trouble removing them to get to the ignition switch. Any ideas/ auggestions anything helps I know it's a little late but it's worth a shot asking. Hoping to have it running by Monday afternoon if not at latest the end of this weekend.

Great comment, let's see if I can help out! For $6k it should be a solid driver with minimal issues but nothing too wild. Get ready to put it on a lift or get under it with a flashlight to check the frame and underside for rust damage paying special attention to the cab mounts, frame, rockers, cab corners, and front floor pans section. For that price it would be nice to have an upgraded rear-end like a ford 8.8 or 9in but even a basic posi/locker should be there. Look at the headers and see if they fit good or did they have to bash a cheap set in place, long-tubes are also always a good thing to see. Also ask if it was lowered properly with new spindles in the front, just lowering springs, or if they just chopped/heated the coils the wrong way. Also ask about the rear suspension when asking about the rear to see if it was just lowered on blocks or if it has real lowering leaf-springs, but blocks aren't bad for the rear. Look at the harness and electronics under the hood and dash to see if it looks all cobbled together or if everything is tucked away and done right. Also your gauges should mostly work for that kind of money depending on the set-up (digitals are hard to get working). Motor and trans should also be in decent shape, check the fluids to see if anything looks or smells burnt especially the transmission. I prefer a 700r4 or other overdrive in these as the th350/400 likes to wind up a little high on the interstate. The manual windows are actually great as long as they are maintained, the factory electric motors in the power windows fail a lot. The new wheels are a plus but if the tires aren't, check them for wear patterns to maybe get an idea of how the truck is handling. Overall you should get a solid driver for that much with maybe some minor wear and tear and don't expect A/C lol I hope that helps and if you have any further questions feel free to ask and follow the channel for more S10 content. I'm also in several FB groups that are great like S10 handling and some other v8 s10 swap groups Hope all that helped!

@hotrod4d this was just the info i needed. I'll be subbing for sure. I'll hit you up with other questions as well. Thanks!

@@mr.stealyourgrill1190 of course, happy to help!

Yeah if there was any kind of arcing, work your way back up the system starting with that coil pack

@@hotrod4d I don't think it's spark? There's no more problems with an arcing anywhere I'm testing the fuel system now I think it's low fuel pressure? I've already replaced the fuel pump twice so maybe it's the in-line filter under the driver seat :-) or could be the fuel relay?

@@terrywalters5410 another good area to check, definitely replace that filter and keep an eye on the injectors. The spider injector system is notorious for failing

@@hotrod4d yeah I can see the fuel squirting out of the injector on the throttle body I think it's the knock sensor on the driver side? When I put my own meter on it in the vice and tap on the device there's no movement. Plus everyone keeps telling me there's a knock sensor on the passenger side on the back of the cylinder head but it's so hard to look back there I don't see it?

​@@terrywalters5410not all of them have 2 knock sensors to my knowledge but my 93 4.3 s10 blazer has 2, i just rewired the one on the back of the head, its just below the mounting bracket for the transmission dipstick, use a mirror itll help find it. Its a 22mm but you need a wrench, a socket wont fit on it because the wiring harness is in the way and its clamed down with a metal clamp so you cant move it unless you can get it undone but it was much easier to just stick a wrench back there than to try to undo the harness.

www.ebay.com/itm/364466234982?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=twnjck92rek&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

gmcpauls.com/rubber&weather_strip21.htm www.steelerubber.com/search?q=Rear+Window+Gasket www.lmctruck.com/body-components/liftgate-cargo-door/cst-1983-94-endgate-glass-components www.ocautocarpets.com/catalog/cargo-door-rear-gate-1481/1992/Chevrolet/QmxhemVy/

That's a tricky piece to find but here are a few links that hopefully help your search!

So the ignition control modules on these are known for failing from heat and the fuel pressure regulators can sometimes be faulty. Does it try to sputter when you crank it or is there 0% spark activity? Have you tried spraying some starting fluid into it when you crank it?

@@hotrod4d yes I have tried starting fluid and it tries to sputter sometimes and I recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator I'm buying a new distributor cause I came across it being horribly out of time but I don't think that's my only problem

Couldn't find a brand on it but it measured about 13"x2"

@@hotrod4d thx. Is a straight fit on the tbi?