Looks way better with the shrouds on

when this guy gets sponsors its game over

The shrouds made the bike look complete

I reckon you would still want air flow across the controller in the air box.

Check your throttle voltages. Make sure when you are at full throttle it is outputting the proper high voltage that the controller expects. Also, is your battery pack capable of outputting the proper amperage that your motor wants?

Hello Chris, big fan of your work. Something is definitely not right on your settings. I built an electric yamaha blaster with the same motor and it can pop wheelies and do 60mph with only 1 gear ratio. I think you should reach 100 with the correct settings and that gearbox. I can share my controller settings if you'd like, so feel free to contact me.

this guy was my child hood inspiration, now im 18 pursuing a heavy diesel technology career

Definitely add the fairings back on imho

looks better with shrouds on with out them to me it’s like a electric bicycle trying to be a dirt bike

Greetings from Ukraine. This electric motor can do more. He can do wheelies and go 100 km/h without any problems. You need to look for the reason in the controller settings.

You still have things getting hot, that are centrally located. The shrouds can only help. Love this build. Keep it up!

I love the music you consistently use in every video. it creates a nice familiar vibe that makes for a more professional feel and something to look forward to in each edit. well done, keep it up!

Make sure you put a low profile switch for reverse...would hate for the switch to accidentally get bumped and whammo..."over the bars" dub the, the "e-shrike" or "the screaming mimi" so cool that it's moving on it's own power! So Awesome! Keep em coming!!!!

Sick transition for the screen mount!!!!

Just use the clutch. It is a normal 125cc gearbox. Slip the clutch a bit when in a standstill

Looks way better with the shrouds on💯💯💯

Looks way better with air scoops shrouds on

You have a GIANT BATTERY you want to keep cool, where the radiator used to be.

Even when you get the electric motor to full potential you’ll still be limited by the transmission. It just wasn’t designed to spin a ton more than the original ice engine was pushing. You can get around that with gearing but you’ll still be putting more torque through it than it was designed for. I love it though. The future is here and although many things people are so against the electric dirt bikes I think it will become as common if not more than an ice.

On my hybrid build I had to solve the same idle up issue you faced. You can add a switch and a resistor between 5v throttle wire and throttle signal wire to have your idle up on a switch. Can use a potentiometer first to find the correct resistance you want. Unrelated but wanted to correct an error. If you tune your throttle rate you may infact lose power as you mentioned. If you change the P gain on the speed PID loop you can soften the abrupt start but not the rest of the rpm range. You would have to reduce the I gain to lose accel.

Fardriver, set rated rpm to motor spec then set max rpm to like 10000, on ratios, turn it all up to 100% and limit rpm at same 10k. Also you other controller prolly got a bad Bluetooth dongle. Same thing happened to me but i luckily had another dongle and that one works for both. So just try a different dongle if you have one

Add the side covers. The battery can't deliver the Amps at that power level.

Maybe if you do another electric motorcycle conversion you could start with a dual sport model so it would be able to be licensed and insured for street use when completed. Just a thought.

Watch out for the rear suspension pinching the electric wires to the controller

I don’t think I will ever like an electric dirtbike or motorcycle but I will say that having reverse at the flip of a switch would be really handy in certain circumstances 👍

Bike needs the shrouds for sure!

I think it would be alot better with the Air dam on the front (shoulders) because you're going to want air getting air forced across the battery to keep it cool . Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family. 😊👍

I think the drain hole in the battery box should be fitted with a hose to prevent water from getting in said drain😊, love ❤️ your work,glasses good idea 😅☮️

You should charge the battery all the way to 100% especially if it’s been sitting. Cheap battery packs from eBay/Abli/etc tend to have uneven cells quicker than name brand and balancing only occurs at the end of charging cycle. You could have a few cells that are down on power. Also make sure you calibrated your throttle if you haven’t already. Last, see if you can monitor the voltage sag under load. It could be the battery isn’t up to the task and therefore aging much faster. If that’s the case, building a high performance battery from scratch out of premium high-discharge cells might be the way to go.

I have a Zero FXS. I have the custom mode set to 25%! This gives it a very progressive throttle action. Very soft at low throttle openings but when you crank it on it still gives me all the power the drivetrain is capable of supplying. It will pull your arms out of their sockets! It’s amazing!

Love the shifting sound

A idea for you, add a riding lawn mower PTO clutch to a switch on your clutch lever, for shifting. Balance the motor shaft, add a gear box oil filter and use motor (bike) bushings instead of cheap roller bearing to get rid of some noise and exess viberations. You will have to cast you a custom case in the long run, that ones going to crack. Anyway cool build !

This is so epic, love all the wild builds in a lil shed.

For a bike like a SurRon that weighs maybe 100 lbs with battery, the 72 volt battery is fine. That suzuki frame, fork, wheels, shocks, tires, etc. are going to weigh significantly more. 96v would be my minimum recommendation if the motor can handle it. For that battery box, if you have no other cooling plans for the batteries, I would put a small drain at the bottom for any water ingress to escape, then drill out or mill out the front and sides to allow for airflow to the pack while riding. The shrouds absolutely need to go on as well, they'll help with getting air to that battery, plus it looks like a front-yard hack job bike without them on.

I think it'll look better with the shrouds on just my opinion

Great job. I hope you're not too disappointed, I admired your tenacity to get that motor on that gearbox. I think it is an awesome project, you are one skillful engineer, machinist and inventor.

I love it! Maybe a little black paint on the diamond plate would make it more incognito.

Shrouds on especially for wet days!!

Sounds like a angelgrinder.😂

"Rather B Welding" *Provides a beautifully made front assembly for the dash and lights, attached to a frame that holds so many modifications without any issues, for an electric motor that is attached to a motorcycle transmission* I get it, the channel name may be sarcastic in nature, but I can't overstate what I have been thinking since you started this project; you are AMAZING at what you do.

You should make and sell those dashboards. With light mount.

shrouds look good but you are 100% right on making the bike more narrow and having less parts to break.

that reverse switch might be a bad idea if it gets hit by a limb or something on the trail...

Voltage drop is your biggest enemy in power! I did build an electric turbo and I’ve tryed different chemistry of battery! It plays a huge role! If you could mesure your voltage in load and see how much you lose voltage! If I remember correctly your battery was « good enough » in specs but im pretty sure you need a powerfull battery! Love your project btw

Why don't you use the clutch to absorb the clunk on take off?

Worst case scenario, you at least still have a really epic way to keep the mosquitos smoked out of your shop

Was literally just looking for today's video and bam there it is 🤘🏾

I hope your day job appreciates you. Your work and creative ideas are impressive.

Like this comment for Shrouds On

Use a volt meter and make sure you're getting full voltage at full throttle. Also, if you can set your mapping for "ramp in" voltage, have it ramp from 0 to like 5% power over the first 25 percent of your throttle travel to ease that initial gear whack. Then, have the other 95% power spread over the remaining throttle travel.

Isn't that motor controller going to cook itself in there?

Great job! Personally I think radiator shroud’s would look sweet!

Duct Tape! The fabricators cow bell

My opinion is shrouds will complete the Look.

The hole in tbe air box would have been a perfect place to mount a fan. The cooler the controller is the better. Overheating is an issue with these higher power kits

It looks a million times better with radiator shrouds

You could get your 'always slightly on' to work by adding by a resistor to the throttle return line on a switch

Looks better with the plastics on

Instead of setting the motor rotation in the controller, set the controller to normal, and reverse the wires to the motor.

Much respect, sir. Dang, nice build.

You picked the bike with the ugliest graphics of the whole 90's decade. Lol

you could use the clutch switch or kickstand switch in line with the throttle signal to emulate the throttle in the closed position when the clutch is all the way in, thenuse this to bypass the start safety so you can keep the motor idling. might need to use a double pole relay to switch the throttle over to an alternate signal instead of open.

Please, STOP USING THE SAME TEDIOUS 'MUSIC'

Good job! That QS motor is a absolute beast! You might want to check the ratio in the highest gear. Then you'll know what rpm you had at top speed. (Or read out the rpm if you have the Bluetooth interface) Nominal rpm is 4000 @72V/ 2850 @51,2V and max rpm (with flux weakening) is around 6500 @72V/ 4620 @51,2V. I think your motor is going outside the nominal range (4000+) It loses a lot of power and efficiency above 4000rpm because that's the nominal rpm @72V. Max power is around 4200rpm Max torque is around 1400rpm and rapidly descends. It can only deliver half of the torque at 3000rpm and a fraction of that above 5000rpm. I built a quad with this motor paired with a EM200 controller. I had limited it at 150A @ 51,2V because I only had a 125A breaker and 16mm² wiring but it still pulled like a beast and top speed was 90km/h. Probably due to torque limitations. I forgot the ratio but the theoretical top speed was around 130km/h.

Man it turned out awesome and can imagine it is a blast.

I'll bet it would be faster with the front plastics in place 😊🏍️

This is by far my favorite channel to watch on youtube. You are very good at what you do and I know you will get this bike dialed soon! 💯

💯% would look better with the tank fairing on also would help channel the cool air to the battery box if i remembered right you had issues before with the battery getting hot, maybe put a few holes in the front with a mesh/ sponge cover to stop water but increase air flow to the box. Love your content your engineering work is on point amazing that you can literally fab up any part you need, wish i had your skills and patience. Peace from the UK 🇬🇧

@RatherBeWeldingChris Regarding Power: Power in the electrical world is defined by 2 parameters: Power=Voltage * Current If there is any current limit set in the controller, try allowing more amps there. Maybe in parallel try contacting the seller regarding that, sometimes they have special software to change more advanced parameters. Now coming to your parameters: If your battery has a voltage of 72V and the controller is allowed to max out at say 100 amps of current, your bike has 720W of power. Now let's increase one parameter, the battery voltage, to 90V. You unlocked 180W and now have a total of 900W available to spend for wheelies. But you did allready knew all of that, right? ❤ that !

all right, I know you got a lot to do and a lot to read so I’ll keep it as short and simple as I can. First of all, I’ve curiously live my building life through your videos. Thank you for that! Secondly, I know in my RC, hobby of cars, boats and planes as well as drones that all the high-end stuff, I’m talking about the ESE have to be calibrated and I do that mostly with controller software, but you can probably connect it to your computer and iron out all the bugs if you can get the interface that you need

Do the far driver throttle voltage hack. But also you need to put a switch on one of your throttle wires, switch it off when you turn your bike on then turn it back on when it’s good to go adding the pre load .2v you set

Great Build! 👍 (the drain holes on battery box will make good venting should the battery fail!) 😜

I say you should put the air guide back on looks better in my opinion

Tank needs the shrouds, looks great!

Check out the glass bead trick for balancing tires. It’s an old school motorcycle trick, but it’s something super easy to do and will indefinitely balance any tire you put on there. 👌

Cool nerds unite!! Much love to all of us!! 🙏🏽💪🏽💯

Love this project! I actually had one of those bikes back in the day. Fyi if you hold the Allen key or hex rench and turn the nut on the back side of hub when removing the sprocket it works better. Also I'm sure you know but heat will help if nothing else works. Anyway my man you are my favorite KZfaq channel. Making cool things from other things and no real plans written down is my favorite.

one button to push while you turn it on that reverts the throttle to 0 volts. Could be called a safety feature if you want! ! Keep it as is!

What would look cool is smaller tread plate fenders to replace the front plastic ones so its half and half standard dirt bike tank and custom build keeping the battery look.

I love the sound of it!!

13:40 Maybe you could add a temporary switch that is always on (push to go off) in series with the throttle and add a resistor across the switch, push the button will disconnect the 0.8 volt to the controller and lower the voltage because it will go through the resistor instead of the switch, then while pushing the button you turn on the motor and release the switch so the voltage to the controller (going through the resistor) will go through the temporary switch once you release it. It would work like a switch that will prevent you starting an engine unless you hold in the clutch lever.

I definitely wouldn't change the gearing until you figure out the controller and power issue. Love the video, psyched to see more. I agree with many of the comments...definitely looks better with the shrouds on. Cleaner sleeper look, once you get it running better. Definitely also love and hope more electric bike builds like yours leads to more manufacturers actually putting gear boxes on retail bikes. I know you can control the power curves with different settings or maps, but changing gears just seems natural. Also, prefer they start putting foot mounted rear brakes back on too, instead of them being like mtn bike brakes for more powerful mx style electric bikes. Thanks for the great content as always!

100% Needs the farings at the front. but mostly id have a look for a helical cut version of the gears you have in the transmission, that would quieten it down a lot

You can get some balancing goo to help the tires roll smoother. It seems like you need to throw the other controller on it, this one seems weak AF compared to the shifter kart. The smaller rear sprocket may help, and a larger front sprocket can also help. but if the controller swap does not fix things, then you may need to remake the gears for the motor/transmission adapter to give it more RPM before the transmission. On the verge of perfection! Been loving watching you evolve the electric bikes.

Next new mountain should be named rBw for sheer determination. Dude you have flipped the potential wide open! I reckon the gears are too close ratio. Imagine a conversion to a road racer... I love the thing you do here

I'm pretty sure the QS138 kit from Electro&Co is able to run up to 25kw peak, here it seems you are more like 10-12kw peak. You should send them an e-mail, they can help you tune that controller better, the bottleneck will probably be the battery BMS. If your battery can do around 300A peak it shouldn't be an issue. Power = nominal voltage*current = 72V * 300A = 21600 Watts. Knowing that in reality you will run above nominal power, it will be more like 81*300 =24kw. Thank you for sharing those great projects as always 👍

You can balance the wheel/tire assembly. I used spoke weights on any spoked wheel when I worked at a motorcycle shop. Tape on weights will also work.

For my 3000w eBike I bought a high quality throttle from Cake bikes and used resistors on throttle ground and throttle + to slightly alter the endpoint voltage my controller needs. I would at least suggest a throttle upgrade that uses a potentiometer instead of a hall effect sensor, pots feel more like a real throttle.

Sounds cool on the video ! You need to look at the gear ware pattern of the gears now you have run it ! Sounds like they don’t mesh quite right. And check the hardness. 👍

Talented build, So far I like hub motors on street bikes. Don't have the dirt where I live but the everglades.

Maybe a rear wheel with a cush drive? I love this video series. Super inspiring. My next large tool purchase is definitely a Tig welder. 😎

I see that reverse feature adding a whole new dimension to freestyle !

I really think you should add the rad shrouds!! Looks naked without. But its your bike so do whatever you want man

Hi buddy , ive been playing with electric motors and esc's for a long time,its not only voltage that will make it fast when you get into the bigger motors and esc's amperage is equally as important the system you have system you have is capable of 200 amps continuous if your battery cannot put that out then you need a more powerful battery a lot of batteries can put out 72 volts but can they put out 200 amps.amps are key on the big stuff

I live for the beevus & butthead chuckle after each burnout of a new project 🤣

Excellent job very nicely done

Check for firmware updates on the old controller. Maybe contact Electro & Co, they might sponsor a controller.

Definitely need to paint diamond plate black

Dude, put the original radiator shrouds back on. It's part of what gives a dirt bike it's aggressive look. And it will very much make that look better with them. Doesn't look good without.

I just did some calculations and if the primary reduction (crank to gearbox) was say 3.5:1, and first gear was 3:1, and your final drive was 2:1, then your overall final drive is. 21:1 in 1st gear, and thats way way to high for that motor. It cant build any low end torque. This is why electric bikes dont have gear boxes. Its unnecessary, and just adds weight. Just run it in 6th.