The Incredible Long Wall Classic, Rock Wars - Trad Climbing in the Red River Gorge.

Рет қаралды 14,366

3 жыл бұрын

Climbs as beautiful as it looks. The stunning Rock Wars is really nothing more then quality layback for days. Don't let the grade or type of climbing dissuade you, you pretty much have gear options at every point along the way.
Absolutely worth the arduous hill you have to climb to get to Long wall (steep but not to long).
MP Link: www.mountainproject.com/route...
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[meta]
name:Rock Wars
pitch:1
style:Trad
area:Red River Gorge
wall:Long Wall
grade:5.10a

Пікірлер: 40

@bobcanish 3 жыл бұрын

You know it's hard when Seth doesn't run it out 40ft and spend time extending every placement with triple length runners hahaha

@dennisrice1557 3 жыл бұрын

Tom Siders probably put that up before you boys were even alive

@bman6065 2 жыл бұрын

One of my coolest memories rock climbing was lowering over that flake system out left and a colony of flying squirrels came out and flew over my wife's (girlfriend at the time) head sitting on the adjacent giant boulder.

@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg 3 жыл бұрын

The 'ol Black Totem crux savior 🖤

@sandstone.addict 3 жыл бұрын

Wait, this cant be Seth. He’s actually placing nuts!

@vbuffalini 3 жыл бұрын

FPB has single handedly killed more onsights than all the shirtless boulder bros spraying at their highest capacity

@FirstPersonBeta 3 жыл бұрын

This made me chuckle.

@kurthoelter3495 2 жыл бұрын

heard the story of the group driving the tour bus through the underpass? wonderful route....

@louiscranfill4094 3 жыл бұрын

Good job. Did this way back in the day. Don’t if it’s true but, I heard David Lee Roth ( of Van Halen) used to climb and while they were in the area took their tour bus through the Nada tunnel so he could do this rt.

@adambaron3802 3 жыл бұрын

One of your better videos of late - always fun to see a bit of a battle. Reminds me of your cruel sister video!

@dereksmalls7808 3 жыл бұрын

I slipped and fell 2 feet from the chains on this route. Devastating. Hahah.

@enricociuppa7093 3 жыл бұрын

always excited when a new video shows. Always nice watch first person climbing videos after your climbing day

@PatrickBeeson 3 жыл бұрын

Definitely on my list the next time I'm at the red.

@jarrodpelphrey3114 2 жыл бұрын

I was always hesitant to place stoppers on this route. I’ve read that the flake can flex enough that they can pull out.

@louiscranfill4094 2 жыл бұрын

A Classic for sure

@louisbreytenbach8903 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome climb! Really enjoyed that!

@ChrisJoneschrisajones Жыл бұрын

"This would feel awesome if my fingers were just a little smaller!" *everyone looks at their fingers*

@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg 3 жыл бұрын

Man, this one looked tough! Great job, Seth

@LouDude502 3 жыл бұрын

Beautiful line! Must do.

@warrengooch6538 3 жыл бұрын

It used to be 9+ the bolt holes at that first ledge. Then they chopped those and extended it, taking the grade to 10a. It's busy up there. Good one!

@theopinson3851 3 жыл бұрын

Wait but 10a would be a downgrade from 9+ though.

@markdesaint-rat4905 3 жыл бұрын

Tom Souders' climbs are pretty good. Maybe try "The Perforator"

@theopinson3851 3 жыл бұрын

As always for trad in the Red...looks stiff! Nice climb.

@wesNeill 3 жыл бұрын

Hardest 10a ever. The top traverse is so pumpy. And hell to clean!

@MinecraftEAT 3 жыл бұрын

Autumn is another Long wall goodie, hopefully you got on it while you were there. A lesser climbed line at Long is Mailbox, which is easy at first with a solid crux at the top.

@FirstPersonBeta 3 жыл бұрын

Did them both though really wasn't a fan of mailbox (Autumn on the other hand was amazing).

@manishshankla9562 3 жыл бұрын

This was my first 10, such a good climb! Did you get on vector trouble? That's another amazing line at that crag.

@jasonzevenbergen6338 3 жыл бұрын

Great video! I just watched your vids on horizontal cam placements, any chance you know if a red or orange totem would've slipped out of your manufactured crack like the C4s did?

@FirstPersonBeta 3 жыл бұрын

No clue, I didn''t have the Totems when I made the video, though they have a lot more going on and don't work on exactly the same model I featured in the video.

@Cardsandstoagies 2 жыл бұрын

I saw the roof crack system above rock wars and it made me wonder if anyone has freed that. Got any knowledge of that?

@Lax-Sharks 3 жыл бұрын

So much for making your first pro (or 2) multi-directional..... you uhhh lika de zippa?

@FlatOutFE 3 жыл бұрын

If your belayer is standing in the correct position under the first piece then the force of fall is still downward. Secondly, some nut placements lock in quite well and can provide multidirectional support.

@tedslusser2817 3 жыл бұрын

Are nuts preferred on this route due to the flake? Would cams be more likely to flex the flake?

@FlatOutFE 3 жыл бұрын

@@tedslusser2817 I'll take a good nut over a cam any day. I'm also always reluctant to put cams behind flakes unless it's the only thing that works.

@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx 3 жыл бұрын

@@FlatOutFE you can have a zipper effect from above too if lets say you place another cam/nut and then take a fall, meaning the first nut experiences an upwards pull and may get yanked out. Suddenly you are only hanging on one piece of gear. I always make a point to place a cam first! I do buy the "no cams behind hollow flakes" argument though!

@FlatOutFE 3 жыл бұрын

@@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx that typically only happens if your belayer is standing too far away from the wall or the route is very overhanging. When possible the belayer should be close to wall. Your point has merit in that sometimes the belayer cannot be directly below the route (or shouldn't be for safety reasons). In my opinion, the nut was the right call in this situation and that it locked in very well. He had a cam as a backup of second placement.