What may have been the main thing that fixed the chain oiler was filling the chainsaw oil tank with MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil), doing some light cutting and then letting the chainsaw sit a couple of days. The MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) may have dissolved some crude or a clog in the chainsaw oil pickup filter or in the chainsaw oiler itself or freed up the check ball in the chainsaw oiler. It may be a good idea to run a little MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) in the oil tank on your chainsaw while doing some light cutting so as to keep the chainsaw oiler system clean of gunk.

The oiler can be dismantled. No problem. Once removed from the saw, remove the 3 PK screws. Sometimes the problem is that the spring loaded auto pump is stuck fully in. Remove and clean the hole with petrol to cure. If that is not the problem, remove the pump, spring and spring locator. That metal piece that the auto oiler pump goes into is the check valve housing. It pulls out, but don't remove it until you have measured how deep it has been pushed in. I grab it in the chuck of a hand drill. and pull,VERY CAREFULLY, because there is a 3/32" diameter ball and a tiny spring that will fall out. Clean everything and reassemble. To clean the whole oiler circuit, empty the oil tank, part fill with petrol. and use the manual oiler pump to purge everything. Removing the chain bar will allow you to see if the petrol is doing the full trip. If you drop the spring or ball, put a big magnet inside a piece if plain coloured cloth and sweep the area around you. That's why I go inside the house to strip them. No other bits of steel to keep picking up. I consider those pumps too delicate for a chainsaw, so expect problems with them.

Ive got a oil leak , Ill try that tomorrow

Motor oil can cause the chain to break while in use, not gooey enough, it gets removed quickly.

The check valve is a little strainer in the pump. It can get blocked over with sawdust over time. I just replaced the diaphragm in the oil pump on my 610 because it had a little hole in it. This caused bar oil to get sucked into the engine and it smoked bad regardless of the gas ratio that I used. It does not smoke anymore. I replaced the diaphragm and gasket, because my gasket was also partially torn. It now oils perfectly. I found a similar problem on my Poulan S25DA and replaced its diaphragm, too. Both saws now operate with very little smoke.

The check valve is within the body of the limiter cup. It's held in place by a small spring. Moving the screw will allow the limiter cup to move by the bigger heavy spring pushing it. It is possible that the ball check valve had something against it at its original position and moving the limiter cup released the particulant!

Thanks. Bar oil is formulated to stick to the bar and not sling off. Motor oil will sling off and you need to have it pump more oil than necessary to keep the chain sufficiently oiled.

I just want you to know that I really enjoy your videos! They have helped me out immensely. And it's also cool that you sound like Rocky Balboa!!! :)

Kerosene is a great cleaner. I once filled my push lawnmower up with kerosene and after I figured out what I had done I drained it out of the gas tank and dropped the float bowl off the carb to get it out of it. The float bowl was immaculate and so was the inside of the gas tank. I use kerosene to rinse out the bar oil tanks of my chainsaws at least once a year to remove any fines from their bar oil tanks. I put in about half a tank of kerosene and shake it up real good and then crank the saw up and run it until see kerosine coming from the chain. I then drain the kerosene out and refill with new bar oil.

The check valve in the oil pump may have been frozen in the pass position, so any oil in the tank passed through the oil pump. Putting MMO in the tank may have cleaned up the crap on the check valve, so oil cannot pass through the oil pump, Nelly Willy.

Been watching your videos on this saw. Finally got a carb kit for mine and installed it, first run, new to me saw. Ran good with the kit, bit hard to start but it was running ok though. Auto oiler wasn't working. Figured it would be easy to pop off and swap from the other parts saw I had just to see. (Oh the manual oiler worked fine on both btw pushing the plunger, the auto didn't work though on the one I was trying to get working, the other I never fired so I don't know about the auto but the manual oiler worked fine on that one too.) So anyway I went to swap the oilers on the top there to see if the auto on the spare one might work. 4 screws on top, comes out fine without removing anything btw, just tight. Then I took the 3 screws out on the bottom of the oiler on both, there is a diaphragm inside that uses the crank pressure for the auto. The diaphragm pushes a metal plunger. Diaphragms on both looked pretty sad. I put the spare saw oiler on the good saw and fired it up. Ran fast as hell all of a sudden. I was like wtf?!? All I did was swap the oiler? Well I think they did one of my absolute LEAST favorite design features, the oiler screws pierce the crank. Why tf they make shit like that drives me insane. Screw holes are such a bitch to seal. You ever have to take the oiler off yours and have any insight how to seal the bastard back up?

Keep this tha saw will beat up on a rancher or 291

Does anybody have an opinion on what tubing will survive better in my 610 oiler tank,, regular style fuel line or silicone fuel line? Thanks

Greetings: I have a 650 and it almost doesn't oil at all. Where should I turn the oiling switch to better lubricate the chain? outward or inward? no matter how much I tried to lubricate it better.

Hey bud would you like to sell that saw? I own one also

I use my air compressor to blast my saw clean every time I am maintaining it.

They don't always have it in the store, but you can view it on line, Walmart sells bar oil in a gallon size, 8 bucks. where as 1 quart is 4 to 5 dollars.