Thank you for the nice comment.

Dependability and power are hard to beat !

610,s are easy to find, and you will be happy with the performance.

Looks like you picked up some nice saws !

Like you say, they have no collector value so people almost give them away knowing almost nothing about them. That's a gain for collectors of these saws!

Do you have any recommendations for where to buy the parts you mentioned?

..McCulloch..NOT McCullough.. :)..I don't know why, but that seems to be a very, very common mistake.. ?

You will be happy with these ol Mac's, especially the 650. Nice collection !

I usually keep about a dozen saws in operating condition that I use on a regular basis, so check out some of my older videos to see them in operation. On the older vintage saws, I will pick out some, do a full go through and run and cut with them, but if I do too many at a time they will end up just sitting, and will require more work next time to get them in operation. Check out the videos to see all of them in action. Thanks for watching.

It is always good to put another McCulloch back in operation. It never ceases to amaze me about how many of them are still around. An excellent mid size saw that will do just about any job. Thanks for the nice comment.

Your story is the same as many others as to the Mac 610's durability. That is why they are my main go to saws.

You bet

Thanks for watching. My Mac 610's have been my most used work saws because of the reliability, excellent performance and easy maintenence, same as you have found. Great ol saws !

The part you need should be easy to find. If you do a fair amount of wood cutting, the ol 610,s really do a great job.

Now i want to do.that

@KainKustomGarage I'm here from the future to let you know that you do indeed paint one to look like a Ferrari and it's pretty sweet.

Glad to help

Thank you !

The ol Pro Mac 610's are tough to beat. They are super reliable, simple to maintain, and are excellent cutters. Thanks for watching.

Now you know why I use them !

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 yep. I've had probably 15 chainsaws from Poulan, Homellight, Husqvarna, and a couple others, all made from 2000 to 2010, and honestly none were worth half of what they cost. Now I've got a small 16" Echo I got for my 51st birthday the other day, brand new, that I'll use for really light duty like kindling and keeping the trees trimmed back, but this Pro Mac 610 is my forever saw. Yeah she's heavy but if it takes me half as long to get it done, if I pull the starter 3 times vs 6+, then the weight doesn't hurt me none.

If a miracle happened and I purchased a new chainsaw, it would be an Echo. The Mac 610 will outlast and out perform most new saws of similar size.@@oldhillbillybuckkowalski

You have found the same thing I have with the Mac 600 series saws. They run the longest with the least repairs and just minimal maintenence of just about any saw ever made.

That is the nice thing about collecting, you collect what you like. I have found that location has to do a lot with the amount of certain types of saws. Here in the PNW, there are a lot of McCullochs and fewer Homelites (older saws), and almost no Husky,s or Stihl,s, as they werent big sellers back then. Poulans were popular back east where they were made, but rare here. I collect all types of saws, but when it comes to doing work, the Mac,s and Pioneers are my choice, as they have outlasteds all my semi modern Stihl,s, Husky,s Homelites etc.

For a non pro saw, the ol Mac 610's are tough to beat.

Thanks for watching and commenting. Our goal is to share info about the things we do and the equipment we use, and hope it can help or benefit others.

One can not have too many Mac,s !

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 nope! Definitely not! 😀😂

For most of their tenure, McCullochs were more advanced, more powerful and longer lasting than other saws

see my other posts as to the remedy

The Mac 610's are amazingly reliable !

The Pro Mac 610's have served me better than any other saws that I use on a regular basis. Powerful, easy to maintain, super reliable. Don't use full synthetic oils in it though, use only partial synthetic oils. I would recommend Echo oil at 40 to 1 for general purpose cutting. The types of oil I use has been one of the reasons my saws last so long.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thanks for the advise. The gentleman I bought it from said it might need an ignition coil. I'm going to pull it out this weekend and tinker with it. It's one of many saws I've picked up over the past few years. Most of them run. I've got an old Homelite XL like the one you have and I've got an Echo 330EVL that I want to get running. In total I think I've got about 20 saws. Just watched your other video on Poulan's...I literally got the two I have for free. And now I'm going to take your tune up tips and see if I can get those two running. Thanks!😉👍

Thanks for the nice comments. On the Mac 610, the coils rarely fail, so I would replace the spark plug first, and if that doesn't help, disconnect the kill switch, as I have had them fail at times. @@jasonlamanna6680

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I've got to say, after watching your video and hearing that beast of yours it motivated me to pull my $10.00 treasure out of the shed this evening and try to breath some life into it. After hearing your last comment, I took the case apart to find that the last person must have pinched the spark plug wire in the case when putting it back together and it was shorting itself out. After taping the wire up and a little cleaning I was able to get a good spark. It fired up a few times, but I think I'm going to need to adjust the high and low jets. Long story short, you were right, that coil is still good! Can't wait to get it tuned right and running like yours. Thanks again!

Good to hear that you got the saw running. If the saw has been sitting for a long time, I would recommend putting in a carb kit. McCulloch used 3 different brands of carbs on the 610's, so take a look at the carb to see which one you have. Many times a saw will run for a short time after extended sitting, but the diaphram usually fails in short order. Also check the fuel filter to make sure you have adequate fuel flow.@@jasonlamanna6680

A good fuel system cleaning and a carb kit and fuel filter, and spark plug should be all that should be necessary to get the ol saw up and running. Thanks for watching.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thanks for the tips. Where can I find those? Small engine repair shop or online?

You will need to look at the carb to see what brand it is. The most common are Tillotson, Walbro then Zama. There is a model number on them that you will need to order the correct kit. EBAY is the easiest place to find them. Take out the fuel filter and match it up at a small engine or chainsaw shop, same with the spark plug.

​@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I was able to get it started and idling, but it dies when I go to pull the trigger. Also seems to make a metal clinking noise which makes the chain inch forward. Haven't tried rebuilding the card yet. I ordered a Walbro carb kit which is on its way.

I just got it running well. Just needed to play with the choke and trigger until it was working. Amazing it started up again after sitting for decades. Thanks again!

One Mac just isnt enough !

You will like that saw.

I use silicone line as it lasts the longest.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thanks !!

your welcome@@2packs4sure

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Last question,, looks like McCulloch used some thin glue-sealant on the chain oil reservoir, I plan to use an ultra thin layer of Ford TA-31 RTV silicone sealant since I have it handy. Ok you think or not? Thanks again !

The RTV will work, but I use motorcycle engine case sealer. It holds up to heat better and has a stronger bond. Every motorcycle brand sells it under their name, but it is the same stuff. Honda sells it as Hondabond, Kawasaki sells it as Kawasakibond, and Yamaha as Yamabond.@@2packs4sure

The only time my Mac,s dont start is when the carb needs serviced, other than that they start every time, doing the procedure you have posted, and that is why they are my #1 saws after 41 years of use !

Wondering if anybody knew how to adjust that high idle lever,,, mine doesn't work anymore,, it's the only problem I've ever had with it,,, it doesn't affect the idle anymore,,, it's never been apart and if I grab it when it's set to high idle and pull it'll raise the idle somewhat so it's still connected but it doesn't work properly like it once did... Anybody have a diagram so I can adjust that and repair it,, thanks !

I am not sure what saw you are referring to, but the mini macs or 610s dont have any adjustment, and if there is slight wear in any of the components, they just dont work. Replacing the parts is the only fix.@@2packs4sure

The McCulloch 610's have a stud and nut, but my MW ( Mac 610) just has a plastic protrusion on the chain brake handle that fit into a slot on the metal arm. Ithink this was done as a cost cutting measure.

The Mac 610's are tough to beat for durability for sure. I made the mistake of thinking I needed newer ,lighter saws, to replace them, but they all wore out rather quickly, and so I went back to my Mac's , which are still working away after over 40 years of continual use, with no major repairs.

What a neat story. The thing about the Mac 610's is that they are big enough and powerful enough to do just about any tree work that most home/farm owners need, and they are super reliable as well. That is the reason they have been my most used saws for 43 years now, and they haven't needed any major repairs either.

Welcome aboard! I have only had one starter pulley on my 610,s fail, and it was a plastic one. The metal ones are best.

great find

I have about 20 saws all for about the price of one new one my favorite is the super pro 81 with a 32” bar got it for 250 it was used logging at camp grisdale back in the 80’s

That is a good find as well as a bit of history.@@Slaughterk360

Thanks for the visit

In the chamber where the carburetor is, there should be a tag with the serial number and an IPL number and the name McCulloch on it. If the saw doesnt have a compression release on it, it is most likely a Pro Mac 610 or Timber Bear. Once you find the IPL number, take a look at the Chainsaw Collectors Corner forum, and browse through the McCulloch section to find what model it is for sure.

The oiling problem with the Mac 610 is most likely the oil pump diaphram. If the manual oiler works, then you know the port from the oil pump to the bar oiler hole is clear. Sometimes the oil line is bad also. Best to check and clean all.

Thats the truth.

I use some aftermarket spikes that are larger than the ones supplied by McCulloch and usually only run one, but two is better yet..

A used side cover with the brake should be easy to find and cheap on EBAY. Unless the saw has been mechanically ruined, it is easy to fix and they run and cut great. The Mac 610's are my most used saws, as they last forever, are powerful and cut great.

Collecting saws is an excellent hobby, and a Super 33 is a saw that is not seen that often. The 372 Husky has been a huge success for Husky Some experts say it is based on a Partner chainsaw.

I’ve heard that too, that when they bought out poulan/partner and copied their designs, don’t doubt it. They sure ruined a lot of great companies, I do like my 162SE,372&395 though ! Makita is sinking Dolmar now too, sad I have a 6800i that’s been a great saw, I purchased everything I should need to rebuild it while it was still available, it shows no signs of needing it yet though . The 33 turned out great, took two carcasses to get it finished but it was worth it I just need to find some 1/2” pintail chain, it’d also be neat to get all the different . Attachments they made for that powerhead.I’ve got a ‘47 im going to do next. Anyway you’re a wealth of information, thanks for sharing it!

Thanks for the nice comment and for watching.

Nice that you inherited your dad's mac 610. It's funny how different people have different problems with saws. I have never had a problem hot starting any of my (5) 610's . On real hot days, I set the throttle on the high idle position and they start in just a couple of pulls. The only modern saw I had, that had a coil failure on, was a Husky. And the old STIHL's I have, that had the Bosch electronic ignition failed at a terrible rate. STIHL found a replacement ignition, and gave you a lifetime warranty on that system, to replace the crappy Bosch system.. Husky had a time where their ignitions were failing, and did the lifetime warranty replacement thing also. I find the 610's plenty fast cutting for my firewood and tree management, and don't own any modern saws anymore, as they just wear out too fast. Vintage is best for me.

Where's a good place to get parts for the McCullouch?

I have used ebay for the few repair parts I have needed over the last 5 years.. Years ago, when dealer stocks were around, I bought the high wear items and stashed them away for future needs. Up until about 3 years ago, there was a lot of McCulloch parts available on ebay, but do to the extravagant charges for selling items there, most sellers quit, making it harder to fix these saws.@@hondo1829

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 eBay is a hot mess as of about two years ago. I sold old tools and lots of other things on eBay over the years and the policy change pushed me out. Still sometimes I'll find the odd rare part or even full chassis, but those days seem to be fading fast.

Many of the sellers that sold small ,relatively inexpensive parts quit, as by the time you take out the fee's, there is next to nothing left, plus the time to find boxes, wrapping materials etc. to ship them with. That is why I quit.@@CaliforniaCarpenter7

After Robert McCulloch sold the company, Black and Decker started the road to demise, getting rid of the commercial saws, then slowly cheapening up the regular line up, and quit innovating. The end came in 1999.

The oil leaking is a common problem. Most of the time it is the check valve in the oil pump that doesn't seat properly. Most of the time this can be repaired by taking the pump off the saw, then flush out the ports with brake cleaner while using a small rod to operate the manual oiler piston to clear out any debris. This is a good time to flush out the port that goes to the bar to remove any debris. Sometimes the base gasket under the pump can be bad and will cause the same problem. A new pump and gasket would be the next step if the cleaning doesn't cure the problem.

I forgot to mention that if the oil cap doesnt vent, the same problem occurs.

You will be a happy camper !

I gave my McCulloch Pro 55 to my son last summer... You should have seen the look on his face....was priceless....LOL

I bet he was impressed with the power and utility of the Pro Mac 55.

Both are very good choices. McCulloch parts seem more available, but if the saws are in good condition they don't need much in the way of repairs.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 thank you

None of my 610,s have ever had that problem. The first thing I would check is the fuel cap, maybe the vent is plugged. I have had this problem on some of my saws, and it turned out to be cheapo chinese carb kits. I had one saw I re-did the carb, and made the mistake of useing a crappy kit, just walking around with it would operate the pump diaphram, and flood the saw.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Interesting, where would you recommend buying a carb kit? Also, is a way to check the vent simply unscrewing the cap and res crewing it on a see if it starts?

You need to see what carb the saw has, then EBAY is a good place to look for carb kits, but make sure you get an original equipment one The other place to get kits is from some of the online parts stores.. If you are out cutting and are going to shut it off, first let it idle for about 30 second, then loosen the fuel cap before you shut it off. Then try starting it again after a couple of minutes to see if it is flooded or not. If flooded the carb needs work, if not, the fuel cap vent needs to be serviced.@@JoBianco

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 That's really helpful, I'l try that thank you.

I guess I must have been lucky, as the first saws I started with, and still use the most today, 43 years later, are my McCulloch Pro Mac 610's and 650. They are anti vibe saws. I guess if I started with and stayed with Homelite XL 12's and similar saws without the anti-vibe, I might be in a similar situation as you. I lucked out though by starting with, and staying with anti vibe saws. Some of the early saws were real shakers for sure. Some new stuff ain't to hot either. I have a Stihl string trimmer, that is the top of the line homeowner grade that vibrates so bad, I can only run it for 15 minutes, even when wearing fellers gloves to cushion my hands. Another piece of crapola, is my Poulan Wood Shark chainsaw. In the owner's manual it states that extended use will cause irreparable damage to the nerves in your hand and fingers. So new is not always better Anyway, thanks for watching and comment.

Oh my old saws are AV but compared to my new 555 husky there is no comparison. Also my weed eater is a new husky.

The only basic difference is the displacement. A 610 is 60cc, and the 5700 is 57cc.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 thank you sir, I’m assuming most parts will interchange?

They are the same@@fitzpreacherfarm6826

The 610,s exhaust port is straight down, so carbon is rarely a problem, as it blows down and out of the muffler. The result is rarely a scored piston. These saws will run forever if taken care of !

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 don't worry I will

You are 100% correct. The 610 is a consumer saw, so some shortcuts were made to make it cheaper to build. Still, even with it's flaws, my 610's are my most used saws by far.

The 600 series Macs were really one of the best farm saws ever made. Last forever, easy to work on, don't generally need much in the way of repairs and are great performers as well. Tough to beat.

For more oil, the screw would be turned out. Most likely the oil pump needs to be replaced. The diaphram's wear out over time.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thank you very much!

@@zoltanolah8780 you are most welcome

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I forgot to ask how far can I unscrew the oil adjustment screw of the chain lube? Won't it fall out if I twist it really hard?

The shop manuals don't give any specific adjustment on the screw that controls the bar oil output. Remove the bar , chain and outer guide rail, start the saw and see what the oil flow is. Turn the screw out a turn or two, then see if the oil flow is improved. If not, most likely the pump diaphram is bad. The oil line and filter can be plugged at times, but doesn't occur very often. Rarely, the oil line can fail also.@@zoltanolah8780

The ol 610's are tough ! Last forever with decent maintenence.

Most of the replicrap Chinese saw parts are crap. I couldnt find a Stihl muffler for my 051, so I had to purchase a replicrap part, and had to modify it to work. Take a look at my video (Mr. Obsolete Saves The Railroad), and after a few heavy cuts, the muffler smoked so bad as the paint burnt off that it looks like the saw was on fire. My McCullochs have never needed much in the way of repair parts, and until a year ago, there was a lot of stuff on EBAY. Now all of a sudden parts are a lot harder to find, and way more expensive. Not sure what changed. I have built up a small stash of wear parts over the years for the Mac's that I use all the time, so it hasn't affected me so much. Parts for the real rare and collectible saws are rare and expensive. The most sought after saw is the Mac SP 125, which were only made for 3 years, and used in the logging industry, so it makes sense that any good pieces for these rare saws are very expensive.

Was the saw a Timber Bear? They were usually the only Mac 610 saw to have recoil problems. Good story.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 pro mac610

The 610 starters rarely fail, but the interesting thing is that the starter on the Timber Bear is the same exact starter,but made with substandard parts. McCulloch way of saving money making the saws.

All the oilers work on my 600 series saws. Watch my next video, and I explain why they don't work. Thanks for watching.

Most McCullochs have a metal tag riveted on them, usualy near the carburetor area, and it has the series and serial number on it. It does not specify the model number of the saw though. I would suggest looking up the Chainsaw Collectors Corner forum, and it will show a picture of the saw, the series number and all the specs.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thanks very much I will do that.

Most Stihl's are hard to work on, and in my opinion, not all that great. The 031 was a gift, and hadn't had a lot of use. I was shocked that I couldn't buy starter parts or a fuel cap for this saw from Stihl. These were a huge seller for Stihl. The saw has good power, but the ergonomics aren't that good, and it feels clumbsy. My 051 had a lot of sub-par parts on it from the factory, as well as my 075, and no parts available from Stihl either, and hard to work on also. My Mac's and Pioneer's are the saws I use all the time.

There are a fair number of McCulloch saw models that sold in great numbers and dont have any real collector value. The Mac's that are collectible usually go for a fair amount of dough though. The valuable ones are the big powerhouses like the SP 125, the big gear drives, etc., and are relatively rare because they were used in the woods, and were used up, and some models were only produced for a few years. The Pro Mac 610,s are a good example of a model with no collector value, but are still very useful and still widely used.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 agree completely. I pay more for the “all metal” Macs. First saw I ever ran was a McCulloch wished I could remember what model. It was in 1969. Loved them ever since.

Same saw, different color.

I have two old KIORITZ (ECHO) saws. One is about 70cc and was sold by Sears, and I believe it is the first Kioritz Echo model sold in the US in the 60's. The other is a late 70's John Deere 40v, which I have in a number of my video's. I like the Echo's and if I were to purchase a new saw, it would be an Echo. I find that the two saws I have are well made and have some nice features that other saws should have. The negative side is that parts aren't available and they have modest power compared to McCulluchs and Homelites of the same era. I enjoy using them and will do a video on my bigger saw at some point.

I guess if you have only used Stihl you would think these are good. They are not. Echo cs670 and huskies xp range are wayyyy better.

The PM 605 is a 58cc saw that was sold from 1985 to 1995.

If you are doing just average cutting with the Mac 610, 40:1 oil mix will be enough, but use partial synthetic oil. I would recommend ECHO Red Armor two stroke oil, as it is easy to find, and works very well in the old saws. On the older Mac, on the bottom of the crankcase their should be both the model number and serial number. Sometimes the engine cases were replaced and not stamped, making it difficult to identify. There were a whole range of models that used the same chassis, but with different displacements. On some, the starters are on opposite sides, and mufflers were different. If you are not familiar with the website (chainsaw collectors corner) I would suggest you look it up and do some research to help figure out your old saw. It has a wealth of info.

OK, thanks for your help and I'll check that website also! The 610 has the original fat 20" bar with most of the black paint still on it.lol The older saw ? Is a 24" fat Mac bar also and a round Briggs 3 1/2 hp looking muffler w/small deflector and it seems to be a complete solid ole saw and came with a custom made wooden box. The old boy must have really loved it. Try to get it going an figure out what we got this weekend.

The bars on your Mac's were made by Windsor, and are the longest lasting bars I have ever used. The muffler on the old Mac is correct for that era saw. If the old saw doesn't have spark, a lot of times their is corrosion under the coil, and it won't ground properly. A quick cleaning is takes care of the problem in most cases.@@joelhockett8137

OK, it has good spark I think? And supposed to run, just hadn't found time to fool with it yet! Looked @ chainsaw collectors corner site. it might be the later 250 but.still guessing at this point I'll look at numbers again tomorrow

Manual pump is not working and getting no oil at all to the bar? Lines and or filter possibly diaphragm also.. Lotta work to correct it either way! Justy luck

The air filter setup on the Mac 610,s is not the greatest for sure, but I have never had that problem on any of the half dozen of these saws I own, many with 40 years of use or more. I take a little extra time when installing them to make sure they are aligned properly, and the results speak for themselves.

Well this ole boy wasn't the sharpest tack in the box either.

My Mac 610's have outlasted all other saws that I have had for actual work, and have had the least repairs of any brand saws that I have owned. That's why they are my go to work saws.

I have only had two pro grade Husky's and one was old enough I couldnt get parts for it, even though it didnt need much. The 371 I had was a terrible saw, and the other small Huskys just didnt last. Since I am not a pro logger the saws I use do the job for me.

There is a place in washington state here in the USA that has lots of parts they can be contacted at CUSTOMCHAINSAWPARTS on EBAY>

How much the price for engine started you think? I never know about Ebay

25 dollars US or less@@butahuruf1655

Good choice !

Couple of nice ones on eBay right now. 🤗🤙🏾

There are two types of McCulloch 2-10 saws. The most common is the small version of 54cc,s and would use a 3/8 pitch chain The other 2-10 is a big 95cc saw that used 1/2" pitch chain. If you have the smaller saw, it uses the same bar as the 10-10,s, 610s etc. and should be relatively easy to find. If you need to find a clutch, it fits the same models. Hope this helps.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Super ! Thx allot ! I have a 10-10 and a 610 also and i will check it out. Just that my ordinary 3/8 seemed not to fitt all well. But I investigate and try the bar and chain from 610...or take a look at 10-10 bar and chain if needed. I already saw/ see/ looked he he , on my 610 and it looked similar to 3/8...but really not sure. If there could be an american pitch version and an european...but likely not. I still amateur...but very impressed with Mcculloch...i start to get know now ! :-) I guess it must be the small one i have 52 cc 2-10. But i thought it is little strange the sprocket has 7 attachments for the chain and thought 6 was more like 3/8 style... as on Stihl and Partner etc. the star like sprocket has 7 for 325 and six for 3/8 pitch. I find out of it. Very cool my old bullfrog did not hade too bad diaphragm and the primer not stuck and after a trip in my new ultrasoundcleaner...it actually fired up very well. Those carbs has not the best rumor...as i understand it. If it does me service...i will keep it as it is ! :-)

Another observation is that the round sprocket...seems to be fixed on the clutch drum. Others can be changed...as on newqer Stihl f.ecs. First time i see that. Ok. But I guess there is newer mccullochs that is changebal also as on others brands. But the one i have...i suspect is very very old. Might be a good sign he he ! Have a nice day and thx again. Keep up the good work. :-)

The clutch can be changed to the more modern one with the replaceable sprocket with no modification, just bolts on.@@motordiverse1276

On the last of the Mac 610,s they went to .325 pitch chain.@@motordiverse1276

Amazing how the 600 series McCulloch's last forever and require mostly just normal servicing. The cure to fix the recoil problem, is to put a recoil off a Pro Mac 610. They cheapened up the starters on the timber bears, and problems are common on them.

Every saw has some feature that is not the best . The 610's have withstood the test of time, and outlast almost any other saw ever made. The reasons that they are my favorite saw is durability, ease of maintenence, fast cutting and powerful.

I run a 24" bar on both my Pro Mac 610 and 650, with excellent results. You are indeed lucky to have a real mechanic to repair your saws etc. as shops like that are rare indeed. Thanks for watching

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 do you run skip chain, or full house?

I run skip tooth chisel bit round tooth chains@@thehonestwoodcutterbradywe8011

Oooh ported 610!

Mac,s get the job done !

I could never figure out why McCulloch made the PM 605, as it is I think 58cc if I remember correctly and the 610's are 60cc. Looks like you got areal good deal. I almost always run 24" bars, as that is what I have, and run a 28" bar on my Pro Mac 700. I am not real tall, so that works good for me. You are right, one is just not enough ! Thanks for watching.

No.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 hi can i get your number please

I don't have a number, so I can only be contacted by comments on the channel.@@chucho1184

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 how can i fixed or u know whats the problem please

Most likely the fuel line needs to be replaced@@chucho1184

All but one person who have left messages about the Mac 610's have replied about how much they like theses saws. The one detractor was comparing a new pro grade saw against the vintage farm/home owner saw. A pro grade saw will cut faster and is lighter, but will be in the scrap pile, while the ol Mac is still on the job.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 there metal maybe heavier but last forever anything new nowadays its cheap! its all plastic! Another thing there easy to work on! I wouldnt sell my 610 mac pro i love it! i have the original from the 1970s!

1976 was the first year for the 610 series, and was called a Farm Mac. 77 on were Pro Mac 610,s till late in production they were labelled 5700's, and the last as Timber Bears in 1999 when Mac went broke.@@midnightrider1178

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 awesome yea mines prob from 1977 then its a pro mac but mostly all metal i know there some later years that had more plastic on it! Good to know tho i learn more a bout it everyday thanks for the info!

You are most welcome.@@midnightrider1178

That saw will give you years of great service when taken care of properly. By your name, I can see you are a Detroit Diesel man. I have an 8-V71 in my Autocar truck. Screaming Jimmy's are my favorite !

The engines that won WW2,

the 71 series is a great engine.

My Detroit is an 8V71 N =318HP !@@DIESELMAN8V92

The original design of the Detroit Diesel engine came from the Winton car company. The big engine division was a separate part of the company, as the car line disappeared A company called EMC( Electromotive Corporation) acquired them and renamed them Clevelands. Then GM purchased EMC, and was renamed EMD (Electomotive Division, and changed the name to Detroit Diesel.@@DIESELMAN8V92

The ol McBricks are not a thing of beauty, but the performance and durability make up for it !

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 agreed! My neighbor was looking for a firewood saw and has limited small engine experience and didn’t need a light weight saw. So I steered him toward a 610. But it’s on my beach right now getting a new recoil and a cleaning. But it gives me some video content anyway😂

A 610 will get the job done for sure. Since the recoil is bad, is the saw a Timber Bear version? They were late models with some cheapo parts put in the starter, and were prone to failure, the earlier saws not so much.@@LumberjackSmokestack

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 not a Timber Bear. But was an eBay purchase and when it arrived you could tell it had been abused.

The best chainsaw is the one that works best for your cutting, regardless of brand.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 and continues to run. I generally have three requirements for a saw - easy to light, stays lit and re-lights. After that is weight, ease of use and reliability. Some folks throw in vibration. Believe it or not my favorite is my MS 440 with a 24 inch bar. After that is my ms MS 360. It is just as reliable as the 440 and about 5# lighter. If I need a high cut or I am having to negotiate through limbs and debris I will grab the 360 in a heart beat but if I am bucking just big rounds I grab the 440. All my saws are fitted with full chisel, full comp chains that are kept sharp. I tailor the saw to the job and not the job to the saw. I usually carry a minimum of four saws ta a cutting job. I light up all four and then take the one that best meets the requirements for the job, leaving the other three idling should I need them.

You have worked out a good program for your wood working needs. I do a lot of the same things when out doing a bigger wood cutting job.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I like the way you are not decked out in all kinds of PPE’s. I only wear a helmet when I am cutting down a tree because a limb fell and knocked the crap out of me. Normally, I just wear what is comfortable to me to dance through the tulips with with my Marine Corps cover on my head. For attire I wear what is cool or warm - shorts in hot weather and jeans in cold weather. A jacket or field jacket in real cold weather. I have chaps but they are hot when cutting in 90 degree weather. For footwear I like my Sperry Topsiders and my jungle boots in uneven ground with lots of tripping hazards. I do not go out dressed like a gladiator but I do wear leather gloves.

Being comfortable when working is one of the most important things one can do. If you are hot or cold, it distracts one from concentrating on the job at hand, and running a saw needs all your attention.@@johnclarke6647

Now that is a good thing to do for sure. Put it back in to operation!

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I did not know the hard starting when warm was a thing/ That was about twenty-five years ago. I traded for it after wearing out two of those green hardware store saws. It was heavy, drank gas like a drag racer, and was a pain to start when warm. I bought a Stihl 029 Super in '99 and that has been my main saw since. I no longer heat with wood, so the biggest stuff I cut is destined from my smoker. Then I saw this video which prompted a complete emptying of my shed to get at the 610.

The McBricks wont win any beauty contests, but the performance and durability are what is important to me.

Si !

The name on the the saws were spelled incorrectly at the factory, they should be PULL-ONS, as you have to pull and pull on the starter, and if a miracle happens, the saw will run !

I like to see these so called experts say silly things like that, but it shows that they are not too swift, because if one is a pro, one can run any saw or piece of machinery effectively with a short learning curve. As for tools, one cant have enough.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 it has been cool to cold,here. It is supposed to get colder. Our DAV Christmas party is in ten days and it is supposed to be real cold, then. My 026 is coming around. I am going to be busy this week repairing some things and updating it to 026 Pro specs. New oil pump, climate controlled carb, intake boot, AV buffers and seals. Some of which needs to be replaced some of it just updated. All of this with my knee bothering me. I twisted it last week. I have been walking around like the hobbit ever since. I wanted to make a flat of apple jelly, today, but don’t think I can stand up for the time it takes to make it.

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I agree, just show me where the on-off switch and choke are and I will figure a way to crank it. If I ca crank a Ford 2N at age ten, I can sure crank a chainsaw. Neither one of them have electric starters, right? What was that tractor - a Farmal A? My daddy liked IHC stuff but my maternal grandfather was pure Blue(Ford) all the way. We had a ‘57 Cub on the farm until it fell apart after daddy died.

The IHC tractors we use are 1. 1942 H 2. 1952 Cub, 3. 1963 Cub.@@johnclarke6647

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I wish I still had the Cub but we sold the farm in ‘98 and it was still in the Butler Barn. By then I had outgrown it and had a Fire 7740 and a 5000 before that. That Cub was a toy compared to those two. I could have fixed it - it needed a new gas tank and liked to overheat. Just did not have time to mess with it back then. I was to busy living and raising a couple of kids.

The ones I had were not that durable, as they all had engine failures, even with proper maintenece and lubrication The other problem is that the saws from the era as my McCullochs and Pioneers is that, parts availability is virtually non exitent.

Some Mac's are harder to put chains on than others, but once you do a few of them, it isn't that hard. Each brand of saw has it goods and bads. The German saws are easy to put chains on, but are difficult to work on, where most Mac's are much easier to work on, but harder to install the chains. Mac's are my choice by far.

As long as I use Mac Pro Mac 610,s and 650,s, I wont be a weenie !

@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Sir, if you don't mind me asking where do you get parts for your pro macs? I am having a bit of trouble finding a good source. Leon has a few but that's all I can find.

I dont have any single source for my Mac parts, and have relied on ebay for a long time. The thing that I do different than most others, is get a parts manual for each saw, then figure out what wear parts I might need in the future, then stock up when I can. This has worked well, as I have not needed much in the way of parts for a long time. @@kevinc.8869

I just picked up a really nice 650 today. I already had a 610 but I tore it down to clean it because it was abused. Even so, the cylinder looks like new and has 165 psi of compression. The 650 is in a lot better shape and I'm just going to clean it up and use ot like it is. Thanks for the reply 👍

The 650