I did a complete gutting for my 25 Nissan, the top was over heated to 85 psi and lower is 110 psi. Both cycl and pistons are within specs. I horned upper, switched pistons, put new rings on top cycl. I end up 110 on both. Happy about the turn out.

Thanks for doing these Brandon! They've helped me tremendously on my own outboard.

Brandon , If you would have just broken down & replaced rings on both , bet you would have had a way better result .

When you push it in. Hone it and then push it out! Moisture never goes past the rings! In 35 years of fixing engines. i have never damaged one yet!

It was a interesting and helpful video thanx great filming job.

I believe I'd get it running and run it a little while to get the rings seated in and then check the compression again. Especially since you had to hone that one cylinder as much as you did.

I question if the lower compression is due to the used rings not matching up with cylinder wear. And if you ran it long enough for the rings to brake in with the cylinder the compression might increase?

I like how you say "it's not too bad" and then follow up with "it's pretty bad". Clear as mud.

Shame you didn't show it running.

Man that was a lot of work. I’ve never seen one completely torn down. Thanks for the video.

I still think it's worth fixing. A couple of new pistons and an overbore and it'd be hard to buy a used motor for that price in that condition. My local recreational salvage facilty will trade machine work for old parts they can sell. Just a thought. It'd be nice to see one of these outboards fixed up, even if you sell it.

This thing needs new piston rings,coz old ones just dont have spring action no more and as a result low compression. This motor is worth the time and few bucks spending on it for set of rings.

use transmission fluid to eat the ruse and free the piston. push down with wood block and mallet. Hone and push back out

Thanks for the lesson.I needed that]Mike

It’s amazing the amount of different methods of attack to a problem, to unsieze a motor lay it down spark plugs up and tip in quarter cup of heated (hot -warm) penetrating fluid, any kind of oil mixed with a solvent,and let it sit overnight, helps a lot to get the motion back n forward , and do it real slow, forcing it to free up can snap rings, love ya*s

Oh, and my theory for at least a majority of those locked motors: ethanol. Alcohol absorbs water. So when the motor is left alone for a long time, the gas and alcohol evaporate out through the exhaust. But the water that was smuggled in by the ethanol is less volatile and remains in the combustion chamber to corrode the rings and walls.

You are a certified mechanic right?? It looks like it anyhow. Keep up the videos Thanks

Brandon, could you do a video on converting a 9.9/15hp from a manual to an automatic starter?

I'm trying to fix a seized 1973 25 HP Evinrude outboard, and I never done anything like this before. I hope to get it fixed soon.

Thank you for the reality Check . Awesome video!

I unseized my 4hp Evinrude with PB Blaster... took a day. Used a rope and a pipe to pull the flywheel around. Put some high octane gas in it, fired right up! Lucky Me! Then got the right fuel with some SeaFoam in it and now it runs as good as ever. I'm SURE I would have given up on it if I had saw the pistons rusted in there like this video. At least it's relatively easy to get the head off to see what's happened. Now I have 2 reasons to say Let's Go Brandon! Cheers!

Nice video new sub

Hi, thanks. Disassembly and Assembly-great! I would have measured the ellipse and the diameter and tolerances , perhaps counterbore under repair size.(PISTON, 030 O. S., RING SET, .030 O. S.) But the work you did is very useful for fans of this motor. Thanks.

P.B.blaster now makes P.B. blaster with lithium grease in it that creeps , should have let that baby sit for a week .

great video Brandon. really enjoyed watching. one question. what is the best way to clean off gasket surfaces? I am doing up an 84 15hp and don't want to stuff up getting the old stuck on gasket off.

I know this is a year old video, but I’m working on a 77 Johnson 9.9, and the throttle is stuck where it enters the cast of outside case. Any thoughts? Thanks

You could try spinning the flywheel with a heavy drill to seat the piston rings .

Hi Brandon, wondering if you can help, I just rebuild my johnson 8hp (J8RCRM) thanks to your videos in part but I'm left with 2 - 5/16 length flush mount flat head screws that need a home. Was thinking magneto assembly or reed plate. Any ideas?

Cylinder bores usually wear out in an egg shape. If you can hone out a cylynder and the cylander is honed all the way through. It means it's good! If the bottom and the top are honed and the middle isn't honing. It means you have problems!

Man...first half of this video was really cringe-worthy. A few tips: Use wood to tap the piston. Something barely soft enough to not deform the piston cap, but solid enough to transfer the impact from the strikes. Rust-locked cylinders "usually" lock the piston rings from the top/head. Always strike against the top of the piston head, towards the bottom of the stroke. There's far less corrosion on the walls beneath the rings--less foreign material to damage the rings or cylinder as the piston travels. Use a small "torch" lighter to heat isolated edges of the piston (not the whole thing at once). The temperature differential can catalyze a fracture in the rust bond. NEVER use a press or arbor. NEVER. Even if the piston and/or rings need replacement, it's worthwhile to mitigate additional damage as much as possible. You don't want to hone "all" of the rust away from the cylinder walls. Too much honing--combined with past and future honing--will widen the bore. Oversized pistons for OMC are almost impossible to find these days, so you want to reduce the risk of needing a rebore. Instead, use the original piston and rings for a brief "break-in" period before replacing them. The rings usually will wear away faster than the cylinder, and the piston's fitment is much more precise and constant than a handheld hone. And probably wasn't so important to a motor this clean and low hours. But a very heartbreaking lesson I've learned: remove the exhaust cover and clean the the carbon buildup out. Those motors usually are run for decades without anyone ever cleaning that cavity, so I typically find diamonds caked up everywhere. When you clear rust away from the cylinder walls, often that rust is bonded to the carbon built up around the exhaust ports...so those chunks tend to break away when turning the motor, falling into the combustion chamber. And when the thing finally fires off, you immediately score up the wall and trash what would have otherwise been a perfectly good powerhead.

Hey do you have a tiller handle for a 15hp evinrude 80s and the gears that go with it

So question do you have any other engines that the power head has gone bad/blown and if so do you live close by South Carolina?

Don’t you love keyless chuck on drills. Do sell any parts?

God work

good show mate. just wondering how long did it take to strip it down and reinstalling

Brandon, i have a '63 10 hp johnson, upon removal of the lower unit, the upper shift rod came out with the lower shift rod. yes they were. unscrewed from each other. the threads on top of the upper shift rod look like a nut is missing and must be some where. do i have to remove entire powerhead to put that nut on the shift rod assembly? thanks ,i've watched your videos over and over and you are the best! Willie

bro! you cant ball hone a 2 stroke and throw in new new rings and expect 120psi before its run? start her up and go through the rev range for a few minutes then stop her and lit it cool over night then start her up the next day and run for a while then do a compression test

did you take a class for outboard small engine repair. pretty good at it. or did you just jump in to it?

I feel like (Jack Burton) Kurt Russell narrated this

The truth often hurts because it is the TRUTH

"not bad,, but pretty bad" feeling it brother, put a ton of hours thinking, eh it'll go... but after it ran, did the psi on the upper cylinder creep up once the rings had settled in? did it get any better? please let me know. because i was just given an 82' 9,9 johnson that i'm about to rip into and this vid is prepping for tomorrows task. rgds

man i wouldnt have forced that so quickly like that.u need to buy some kroil.its the best

The motor is cold the numbers will go up when you brake it in why not get new rings there 30 buck on each set that motor is worth 400 all day

Why one lower compression on one than other?

I would pour some brake fluid into the ceased piston. Then i would hit it in. Then hone the cylinder and push it out!

I have the stuff!!! AND THE KNOWLEDGE

and not any honing or no new rings.WHY?

The piston never touch the bore. Only the rings touch the bore. If it's a two stroke. The piston has to be in good condition! In four strokes. you can have slightly scratched or damaged pistons. If i'm buying a two stroke. I always take the muffle off and inspect the piston. A good piston has no scratches. It is important that a 2 stroke piston is in very good condition!

Waiting word perfect at work again

Brandon, I pastor a small church in Rich Hill MO and I bought a boat and motor earlier this year. The guy said he had the carburetor cleaned but I took it off and sure enough it was very clean. My motor is a Johnson 6 horse and it runs and idles good and with it out of gear it revs up very high. But when I put it in gear it only runs a little above idle speed! I cannot figure it out. Have you ever run into this type of thing? Your friend in Christ Carl Covey.

What did you use to wash the motor with looked brand new again haha

It might have helped to put some oil on that cylinder for a while

What type of sealant did you use on the head gasket?

What type of lube was used on the inside?

Ive seized 35 hp 1977 upper i did start working on it but almost every bolt is seized its hard to work on it

Having issues with my 9.9 and I’m at my wits end. Is there a way to send a video to you and see your thoughts? Rather do it myself it’s the dyi in me.

Could be nice to see running,whole video I been waiting to see that

Any ide where I can find a lockout spring for the same lockout as yours? Mine is missing, looks like it is not 100% needed as gravity would probably be OK, but I want to make mine correct. Part is NLA

Have you sold this motor yet? I have a 74, 9.9 that I've had since I was a kid and yours has LOTS Of parts That would fit on mine??

Your at rockstar status for just being able to tear it down and put it back together correct. Awesome content

I'm tellin ya clean that old piston up. Throw a spare motor up in the bow. Take that thing out for some quality WOT time. Well if you throw those old rings in some 50/50 vinegar/ water and they clean up. Be the better "expieriment"

Cheap is good! People don't want to pay! Every body wants every thing for nothing! I'm here to make a profit!

I know this is old but after all that, you didn't even start it??? Wow, very disappointed. With different/used rings on honed walls, I'd be surprised if the compression was much higher. I'd love to have you run it for a while, preferably on a boat for an hour or so at varying speeds, loads, etc., then do the compression test on both cylinders again.

i dont get it.id have layed it down and sprayed it full of kroil for 2 days before tearing down new motor.but ur good

brandon do you have a piece of gasket material about 5;; x 6'' that goes ender outboards around exhaust im tryin to afix a 1949 powerhead to a 1953 and water tube is different but if i can alter the gasket from the one like the qd-14 1953 i think i can bolt it up and use the entire powerhead.its very similiar and i have a new 1953 gasket but their is a bigger slot towards middle of powerhead where water comes up through grommet on 53 and 49 has a pipe compression piece i took out and if i can get right material i think it will work.or maybe you can tell me what or where to order a blank piece.i have 2 types,pretty tough,gas resistant and such but the thickness is too thin.any ideas please help its for my 01 year old dad.please.great videos.you know your stuff is why im reaching out.thank you Robert

Wtf, I watched the whole video. Why didn't you try starting it?

Pistons must be the same weight! I simply would have taken out the 2 pistons from the other engine and checked the ring gap only! Also the distance of the stroke has to be the same!

Is it supposed to have a tell tail pee outlit?

Bar codes kinda started in about 1974, so your can of penetrating oil is probably that old or older. I don’t buy into your final assessment of the motor. You need to start it and let the “new” used piston and rings seat in. I’m betting the compression comes back into a very useable range and that motor gives some good service for a long time. I also doubt your gonna get by with just a quick inspection of the float and float chamber of the carb You should have disassembled it, soaked it overnight in a bucket of carb cleaner, and reassembled with a new kit. I doubt seriously that this engine is as worthless as you think, but its gonna need a few bucks spent on it to be ready for the water!

If would of been cool for the sake of science if you took a measurement of cylinder walls if it was still in tolerance I have been reading a lot that they get out of round have you experienced this

Hey there's A place in Lanier,Georgia that sales boats&egines parts.& possibly even whole used engines to. You maybe able to find your 9.9 engine parts there reasonably. Just thought I'd throw.,or toss out that information to you. It might.,or might not be of some help to you with your engines needing parts.

All that hard work and time for nothing. You didn’t want to spend a dime on it. What a shame.

you took the power head off mostly for the video content right? im just thinking, you got it super cheap. wouldn't it been easier to just pull the head, tip it on end, and spray some penetrating oil on the stuck piston and let sit for a day or 2? then slowly tap the piston down. also take a propane torch and heat the piston a bit to break the bond from the cylinder wall. once free, put the head back on and see what compression your working with. if it did have a bit low, the good piston maybe could make up for the not so good one. now you have 2 pistons with poor and really poor compression. you know running that might of freed up the bad piston rings without taking it all apart. and if not who cares its a cheap parts outboard now.

I have "un-ceased" hundreds of motorcycles by first pulling the plugs and pouring in diesel fuel....and let them sit for a week, or in really bad cases, a month. Empty cylinders and spray oil in ....move THE PISTON BACK AND FORTH...NOT ONE WAY ONLY...This will do the job without the tear down. Next, this is NOT automotive clearances....in that there is lots of room between piston and side wall....rings are what matters. You could have used (modified if necessary) rings from the other engine. Clean out the piston walls, and clean up the pistons and put it back together with install lube. It will run for a very long time. Never ever mix and match pistons...if you expect any longevity from the engine. Bearings too....they are matched.

at 3:20 what are the two blue things

All that and you didn't run it?

Didnt have to do all that

you can buy a 15hp evinrude carb and put it on that motor and itll bee a 15hp-its the same block for both motors-i know cause i stumbled on that tidbit of infor looking for another carb for my same motor-got one from cr list for 50 bucks-what a diff it makes pushin my 14ft fiberglass v hull-my motor also if a 1976 but sits on a 1984 lower unit-who knew cept the old wrench turner i used to get parts from-hes dead-rip -zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

try SUPERZILLA..

Can the transmission be changed from forward to neutral with the engine not running?

Hi Brando’s is anyway that I can contact to you

On that particular motor what is a ball park figure that it would cost to bore it and put in new pistons and get it in top shape?? I will not hold you to the numbers just a ball park, And as usuall Great video, I enjoy these

In 2003 I overheated my 1969 Chrysler 20 HP that my dad had in storage for decades. It scored the piston sleeves. Compression was at 108 psi on the top cylinder and 105 psi on the lower cylinder. Towards that end I procured the overhaul for the engine however, there are no new cylinder sleeves available nor oversize pistons and rings. So I purchased a used powerhead at $150 that I have kept for the near future, either to put new pistons or to replace it. I purchased a compression gauge on Amazon and I will make my decision on putting the newer power head on the motor. Thanks for the shown effort I might do the same for my old Chrysler 20!

Прогреть надо блок и все выйдет.

That sucked. Run it, then checked compression.

Whatever you get what I'm saying I hope

you said not very helpfull . not true dont buy a low hour motor thinking you can unstick it and get get great results

I the power head comes off, New water tube / exhaust Grommets go in. ,, kodi

Waisting

ih to all i sill haved 15hp for evirade can

Ok you took apart 3 motors in this video and used all that time and couldn’t buy 2 sets of rings I just don’t understand you probably could of got 350 -400 for that motor

Completely screwed that cylinder bore with that ball hone, went way too long with it. All you need is a light crosshatch, its not supposed to look like someone took a grinder to the inside. Look at the other cylinder wall to compare. Guarantee that's why it has such low compression

Did not even try to run it or show it. 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮👎👎👎👎👎👎