Brett is my favorite recurring character

this car is one of the most iconic builds ever on youtube, it can never be mistake

Something about this car that mesmerizes. Classic lines, fresh livery, stance, wheels... It tells you everything about itself in just a glance. An old edge purposefully re-sharpened for combat without disregarding its heritage.

As someone who has been in the Automotive Dry Ice business from the beginning, thanks for portraying it the way you did. It's not magic, it is slow and arduous, but it's worth it for all the reasons you mentioned. It's not just about cleanliness, it's about functionality. From leak detection to simply working faster and more efficiently because there isn't caked on grease and dirt, it's worth it. You showed that, and not everyone does. Thanks Mike.

Hey Mike, that rivet detail is great for two reasons. 1: vulnerability, makes us feel like our project cars don’t suck just because of little recurring issues like that and 2: you fill your head with little time saving practical design change experiences like that and eventually you become a time saving machine

As a previous commercial truck technician, a heated power washer with a soap input pulling diluted dawn will make quick work out of any amount of dust caked on oil. Like 100,000's miles of oil leaking road dust blamo gone in a sec. Understand why you'd use dry ice here, but for others, it's absolutely not the only way.

Regarding documenting the windshield bolt: I love seeing even the small details. It’s awesome to see all the aspects of making a race car - even the silly little fixes.

Should put a wire on that plug or 3d print a cap and use a wire to attach to the plug/cap so you don’t need to but for it later. It just hangs there until you’re done. No muss no fuss

Definitely enjoying the new pacing changes, gives the whole video one long, cohesive feel. Episode was over before I knew it. All progress is good progress, and I'm definitely jealous of all the problems you get to solve on a daily basis. The immediate gratification you get when a solution works and bolts right up has to be fantastic. I miss that high and really need to get my garage back in shape to be able to work efficiently again.

If you have stainless exhaust, I always recommend backpurging, turbo or not because the heat of exhaust WILL make sugared welds cracks under vibration. Everytime.

It's nice to have good friends :) Very excited to see the Ferrari on the way back! I should come back and get the E28 too ;)

should put a tether on your cap so that it cant get dropped...speaking from experience--also if it isn't a cap but an empty connector dont forget putting the dummy pins in

Remote control pad in the engine bay is a great idea Mike. Makes so much sense and be efficient. Want to say having an extra person behind the camera has made a noticeable difference in the quality of your presentation but also in your content. Love your work👍

Rather surprised you guys didn't have a respirator or something during the blasting process...all the nasty you breathed in!

Mike I have to say your cutting style, the audio takes and the style of filming is just very very good! Keep going! Loving watching your videos!

You're gonna need to add some strain relief to that Deutche Connector because the bending of the wire attached to the control pad is going to create metal fatigue in the wire, resulting in broken wires. It can be as simple as heat shrink, or a 3D printed elbow to secure a fixed curve where the other end plugs into the car CAN bus port.

Absolutely document the little details. One of the most valuable aspects of your channel is how you don't hide how the sausage is made. Seeing all the nickels and dimes make it so much more real than all the tightly edited 20-min videos (or worse, 60 second shorts) that have people believing that this stuff happens smoothly.

Love to see the community around you, everyone helping each other on projects

I really appreciate the small details. It really makes the build perfect. Great work!

Mike, nice open shot sequence! wow

Bret is unbelievable. His skillz are beyond belief. SHOUT out to BRET! Amazing tool and dye work my friend. I am astounded.

Here's a tip to quickly see if the torqued nuts and bolts came loose. Take a paint pen of bright color and make a line on the stud and across the nut and onto the mounting surface. That way with a quick glance you can see if anything's moved because the marks will not be in line anymore.

My preference would be for you to document EVERYTHING! Been awaiting for this episode since the car was in Australia - fantastic to see it return to the channel, and to see the upgrades happening. The second keypad is a great idea. 10/10 🙂

Not sure if you have a way to do this with your pad or not but the most useful feature I have on my race car is the ability to run the starter remotely with the fuel pump deactivated. Works to prime oil, check cam/crank sensors, do compression tests, etc. I also ran a remote USB port to plug the laptop into at the same location. I think you’re 100% correct that running the remote switch panel is a huge quality of life improvement!

For the rivets through the 3D printed bracket, using a longer rivet with matching ID washers on the back side will keep the rivets from ever pulling through. Awesome vid as always, love the build dude!

Google took you out of my launch view. It pisses me off. Your content is gold. I will not stop watching your videos.

Have to be careful with rivets on plastic parts in 2 ways related to creep because it's very hard to gauge how much force you're putting into the area (vs say a bolt). If the rivet expands inside the hole and puts a hoop stress into the wall, it could either crack when loaded up in use or the plastic could creep overtime and make the fastening go loose. This is why countersunk holes with screws in plastic parts are not usually a good plan (look in any plastic molded device and they'll have regular flat bottomed screw heads), the taper of the bolt puts a hoop stress in the part and it'll crack or creep. With printed parts, you also need to worry about the amount of axial compression you're putting into the area around the whole as they're not generally solid. Parts can locally collapse under the bolt head and either propagate cracks or effectively go loose. Best practice for riveting plastic parts is to include metal washers to spread the load and take the hoop stressed.

The remote control panel looks sweet and I can see how it will be very handy when working on the car! Maybe consider making a little lanyard you can attach to your bracket for it so u dont loose the connector-cap when hauling it back and forth from dyno visits, tracks etc :)

Mike I think we’re all fans of Lando this week. I mean, how could you not be.

Ive been watching this car be built for literally years now lol. And still just as excited as i was in the beginning. Actually more because its so close… again lol

With all of that vibration, I highly recommend you look into Nord-Lock wedge-locking washers to prevent loss of bolt preload. They are fairly inexpensive, can be found stateside, and they do NOT back off. I have successfully used them for many years on my 1953 military truck (driveshafts) and 2016 Focus RS (autox suspension).

Loving these new filming formats. Killer stuff as always, Mike!

That Haltech keypad set up is noice. Gotta love machined parts.

Can we see more Brett? Seems like an awesome neighbor I'd hang out if he was next door. And can we acknowledge that lathe handle!!??

Pre race nut and bolt check is MANDATORY with solid mounts. Even in our top alcohol dragster.

I started following your channel when you bought a beautiful yellow Ferrari (and had a much longer beard), and I have to say you only get better every time. congrats mate keep on like this.

In my opinion it's the geeky nerdy details about a build that draw the audience. Before this I watched the Ruffian Galaxy overview. It's the smallest of details that make the most difference. Thanks Mike.

So much value @ 21:40! Great job Mike as always

Look up vibration resistant nuts on McMaster. I just built a concrete shaker, and I welded the bolts to the frame, and these nuts haven't moved a millimeter after dozens of hours of shaking at full speed. They're split at the top, and somehow grabs the bolt amazingly well.

Mike - Maybe use a button head cap screw for that windshield bolt. Cleaner and more aerodynamic installation. Also, talk to your machinist friend about making a custom dual V-band clamp flange for you that has the larger size flange on one side and the smaller size flange on the other side. This would have minimal distance between the two clamp rings. This could involve using a piece of thick wall tube that fits the large clamp inside diameter and then the other end is machined to meet the smaller clamp inside diameter. The tube length can then be minimum length needed to allow the clamps to be installed.

An alternative to back purging stainless steel is Solar Flux Type B. The same results can be achieved for a fraction of the cost and equipment.

killer production quality and content as always

Best part of my Friday!

On an industrial setting, you can use backing rings to avoid back purging or use disolvable paper disk to make the purge volume smaller.

Wanted to share my experience 3D printing countersunk holes, the down and out force can push the layer lines apart (ask me how I know). I switched to counterbore and problem solved. Not as sexy as flush countersink bolts, but much more sexy than broken parts.

Love seeing all of the small jobs. Keep it up!

Cool link on the AN caps. Thanks!

The adapter is actually smart most don't realize it's gonna increase exchuat speed increases spooling let alone the sizing so many don't realize sizing for the application its gonna be used is always better then big numbers I always strive for drivability and when I use to race people always wonder why there cars put slower time with much more power now this was mid 90s and tech today is so much more advanced.

Love the content Mike. Awesome build. Back purging is the bomb. Given the size of your part though to save $$$ i would have just die grinder the inner side! Keep up the great work.

I like to use cf-nylon filament on some parts I design for engine bays. Chemical and heat-resistant. It can be a little pricey depending on what company you buy it from. I have to use some wild retraction settings.

The amount of knowledge you can find in this comment section is invaluable.. Thank you 🙏

Very cool update, excited for the K20. I was a bit supried you went with black paint for the engine area, I would think white would help ID leaks. Cheers

Love this car, can't wait to see you hit the track, keep it up man love your channel

Thanks Mike!

Love the videos Mike, this is such an iconic car can’t wait to see it back on the road

I get the idea and see the value of backpurging however those welds should not burn through the metal that much to begin with. The most you should get is only getting it slightly black, but no bubbling. I lost count of how many coupons I threw away because my trainer told me I was not running quick enough to keep the pool going while not overheating the metal. Now one of the things I see you doing and I have my guess this gets in your way to achieve even better tig welds on stainless - use an aluminium plate underneath your piece because mild steel contaminates your stainless while welding. Also don’t leave the stainless parts you are about to weld just resting on mild steel for the same reason. Try it without backpurging, control the speed and see how it goes. Good luck!

Love watching your content, such a talented guy! Gerard from England

Nordlock washers help a lot with everything coming loose with solid engine mounts

I'm just grateful that you appreciate the insane costs of dry ice blasting. I had to click off of another channel's video when he said "Now, normally we would have this car dry ice blasted..." because most people don't live in a reality where that kind of wealth is "normal".

Mate such a decent upload! Sublime entertainment. Definitely document the rivet to bolt replacement, why not 😂

I can't wait to see how much more you love this car with the new turbo!

PETG is only good to about 65c, ABS filaments (Amazon prices starting around 15 dollars per kg) are good for at least 80c, the cheap Polycarbonate filaments (Amazon prices around 25 dollars per kg) are good to around 100c. If the PETG fails (which I assume it will, based on engine and track heat) your X1C can print those other filaments just fine.

Very interesting hi-tech options to car building. Cheers

Yeah man I've got the same issue with my K24 MR2 vibrating like mad. It should be less of an issue with K20 though. Nevertheless great channel mate, love your content and big fan of the way you conduct/present your episodes

About the same situation with my prelude, raced it and blew it up. Now fitting the new engine in.

This is one of the most iconic builds ever! Incredible work!

I love seeing the details :)

I love that Mike is working on his Ferrari powered by a Honda…while wearing a Ford Motorsport hat.

Keep showing the little fixes dude, Racecar life is those fixes every bit as much as new engines and the like, sometimes more so.

It seems like the more elegant solution is to put the original CAN pad on the left side of the interior where you can access it while warming up the engine.

Brett has the skills 👍

Useful 3Dprinting tip, you can use a soldering iron to hot set threaded inserts.

Happy Birthday❤️

For those that don’t have the option of dry ice blasting,Dawn dish soap does a decent job at removing oil,etc.PS I love the build.

Yes!!! Cold Jet is the best

Cool! a friend in need is a friend indeed! Beautiful!!!

Hey Mike, this car is so sophisticated, go for the unthinkable. Two Turbos inline? Greetings from Barcelona.

Another solution for the CAN connector would've been using a TE Connectivity locking plastic Deutsch cap with a mounting tab. Off the shelf part with one bolt mounting, that you would lock the 4 pin CAN pigtail into when not in use and would eliminate another set of connectors. And there would've been no need to drill through the body.

You should use some seam sealer on the lower portion of the wind screen

Twin scroll exhaust housing for faster spool up and quicker engine response. Perhaps a future mod when re-making the exhaust manifold?

22:05 - looks like the inside of the exhaust knuckle from the system my brother bought for his VW T3. Full stainless system that he paid over £1k for but man it was badly welded. Also the replaceable tip rusted within 6 months so not the stainless grade he was told.

i seen a video yesterday where a random youtube fab guy explained that argon is heavier than co2 and heavier than oxygen, so the best way to back purge is to feed the argon through the bottom and very slightly allow oxygen to escape through the top of the part as the part fills with argon the oygen gets pushed out of the top leaving only argon inside....

29:38 gold reference

Another great episode! With the cone to bring the manifold down to the new turbo, I assume it would actually create more pressure of the exhaust gases before going into the turbo itself, thus probably creating a faster spool, right? Looking forward to seeing it all come back together! Nothing down the vibration concerns.

A possible nice thing to add to a high boost setup could be a water / water-ethanol or water-meth injectior, low cost but should help keep knock away.

You could have Brett machine up a one piece adaptor that would only be the 2 V band clamps thick, should easily be the 19mm shorter.

It is still a wonder to me that this channel is not sitting at 5 million subs.

I always love how the boss says that we sent the car off track and now we have a huge problem.

If the turbo adapter ends up being too long, you could always buy a chunk of stainless and have Brett machine up a short single-piece adapter with both v-bands integrated. You’d only need an inch or two of I’m guessing 3.5 or 4 inch round bar so the stock would likely be in the $100 range. Probably a little more expensive than the materials for a weldment but once you factor in the fabrication and the fact that you’re having Brett machine the components anyway it might be a viable option. Plus it’d look slick and probably flow better. I don’t know how expensive Brett’s time is though, that man is worth his weight in gold.

Id get some low profile hardware for that windshield bolt in the future.

Only had a dumb and obvious recommendation to consider redesigning or shimming the engine mount to be 19mm higher to accommodate the new height or maybe selecting something in the middle to keep the drive line angle happy and just enough to fit the old manifold.

Your mic is on point. I could hear your finger rubbing the inside of the adapter

These vibrations would probably led to some welds cracking. Why not replace some (or all) of the solid engine mounts with something a little more compliant?

Outstanding

maybe the k20 will vibrate less than the k24. might also be worth it to get a fluidampr or ati super damper as well

The lower body definitely makes a lot more sense for strength over the rivet however from an OCD perspective is the current bolt a temp fix or will you switch to something more flush like a button head over the flange bolt that was used?

Who else said "WOW!" when you saw the inside of the part after the back purging!?

Include all those little details like the windshield bolt, its the details that matter

The motto of this build should be: measure twice, redo five

Steel It is pricey. But man I’m so glad I painted the inside of my car + roll cage. Literally can’t beat it for $180/5 cans