Or you could just write the measurements down 😁

Surely if you were 30years younger you be too young!!!!

@@peterbell4154 No, unfortunately not. Peter

Have an air compressor? You can get pneumatic nailers as cheap as under a hundred bucks

No, again, air compressors, very unlikely for DIYers to have. More likely to have a cordless nailer but at around £300+ it's tough for most to justify unless taking on a large project.

@@marcopetrillo6867 not in the US. I can go buy a compressor that will run any nail gun for $90. If you aren't willing to spend that, you don't care about moving quickly.

@@mike93lx Sure, I can buy a lot of things that would make that one job a lot quicker. And then it would be slung in to storage, destined for a lonely and solitary existence until it fades in to a distant memory. DIYers have more general toolsets, they don't include air compressors (at least not in the UK)

@@marcopetrillo6867 once you have a tool like that, you can find lots of uses, but we all have our own priorities. If someone is doing a large framing project like a shed or addition, a compressor should be a default to own. If you live in an apartment, you probably aren't doing any framing

Glad you like them!

You’re welcome 😊

they shrink in summer due to humudity :)

I was thinking I was the only on to have turn ups on my Jean shorts. Must be our age that we can be completely cool in wearing them rather than having to wear combat shorts like the younguns.

I buy conditioned board so the board size is 2397 x 1197 instead of a typical 8 x 4

Robin Clevett I’ve never seen metric osb !!can see this coming in handy same as plasterboard size (ish )is it more expensive. 👍🏻👍🏻

@@ukconstruction Where do you get conditioned sheet material from?, I have a building company thats Surrey based so would be good to know for our future projects, all the best.

Mark Worthington they only do it in 9mm

@@Spiderboi690 hi Mark, you can get it on most sizes I have had 18mm plenty of times

Thanks Tony, I am up for your podcast mate too

We use a TF200 Therma membrane and then a counter batten and in this case an Oak feather edge cladding

Many thanks. Interesting. Kind of you to reply. Best wishes @@ukconstruction

I believe he's taking the left side of the sheet material measurement i.e the long length (the 332) from the right side of the previously cut board (the board on the left which is already in place) I guess minus 3 or 4mm to account for the gapping, If you notice on the video Robin looks up and then mentions the 332, it's the measurement he's written on the board for the previous cut, hope that helps

Rob Norman Thanks! That makes sense. But I don’t think he need to account taking of 3 mm because the right side is already lifted when he gets the measurement (332). So after getting one measurement from the first sheet on the wall he will have a natural measurement for the rest of the angel without taking the measurement! Smart

@@mattish2476 Smart yes, but only if you didn't know this "trick" already, these are the kind of little tips that you learn through experience, I'm only guessing that he deducted a bit from the previous board as due to the 3mm gap the measurement won't be exactly the same, saying that considering its all going to be clad afterwards the cuts won't need to be ultra precise. Another way of course is using the new "right hand side" measurement and then using the off cut from the previous board as a guide for the gable end angle..

I was just about to ask the same question.

If you watch closely you will see that on the joints I nail at an angle, so the nose of the gun would be about 25mm from the joint and I aim back towards the stud, takes some practise bit it deals with that rule, hope that helps

Which Adam??

Milwaukee only has one M18 framing nailer so you can't buy wrong.

Glad you enjoyed

Jon Senior thanks for that great tip mate,

Most timber frame panels that are pre manufactured are always upright it all depends on specific application and engineering details, in this instance the wall is a triangle and by default is super rigid and strong, the OSB is simply basic sheathing so no real structural element here

@@ukconstruction Thanks much.

Hi Ollie, as a rule of thumb you allow this gap everywhere you use OSB, spax do a great flooring screw in tubs that are great with OSB

This is just the structural sheathing, the building is being clad in oak

OSB (oriented strand board) is not meant for external use untreated, its mainly used as a substrate prior to cladding or as a deck for flat roofs prior to covering.

It depends on the moisture levels during the life of the building

Hi Mark, have you tried TRADA, they may have some details, sheathing can be so varied depending on use for example typical mass produced timber frame panels have no more than a 9mm OSB3 board, but for general domestic building work we tend to use a one size fits all so could be a roof deck or wall sheathing we typically use an 18m OSB3 or a structural Plywood such as Wisaspruce The nailing patterns vary wildly.... factory produced timberframe can be as close as 75mm centres however on site I would aim for about 50 to 60 fixings a sheet based on a full 2440 x1220 at 400 centres Hope that helps!

@@ukconstruction Thanks for the reply. Is wood based sheathing still the go to choice? I see there are cement and gypsum options for external sheathing too. Thanks Mark

You're not a chippy!

@@Stef1487 Why? It's a reasonable question. When I worked in Holland and Germany all the roofs I worked on sheathed.

Hi Ian, we are cladding the building with oak on breather membrane and counter batten so the sheathing is never exposed

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nNSkmM6Az-CVYmQ.html

I was wondering the same thing. How many sheets can you fit before you are running 'off-centers''

update : already answered a few days earlier, Rob uses Conditioned Board (which I need to check out) which is 3mm smaller

@@garyharrisonuk I had a look for 1197 x 2397 osb3 conditioned board, yeah you can get it...but you are looking at £45 (inc VAT) per sheet for 18mm!! thats the best part or £20 a sheet dearer than a standard 8 x 4, think its a lot cheaper to chuck a guide on a skill saw and rip a few sheets down

Hi Stephen, this is just a sheathing and we will be cladding with oak on battens so there is no need to seal this material

Robin Clevett is there any benefit in running a soft mastic into the 3mm gap to reduce chance of water ingress , or does that defeat the object of leaving gap 🤔

As ambient moisture changes, OSB or plywood panels will expand and contract. When you butt the panels together tightly, there's no room for expansion and this can cause buckling. Leaving a gap between panels allows them to expand and contract.

9mm OSB, 51 mm nails Liam

12mm minimum for exterior sheathing, 50mm galvanized ring shanks.

OSB should never be put up vertical only horizontally ... as that how its desighned for shear value ... Ply wood should only be put on Vertical as thats how it is structural designed as it cups and will pop the nails after time if hung horizontal

@@SaerTurner You might want to inform Swiss Krono about this since it´s a detail that they seem to have left out of all their OSB documentation! OSB doesn´t care whether it´s horizontal or vertical. A large part of OSB sheathing is manufactured to 1197mm width, specifically so that it can be used directly in vertical orientation for studding on 600mm centres, leaving the 3mm dilation gap without needing to cut the panels. As for plywood, while I could imagine it would perform better in a certain orientation, that would depend on the number and orientation of the cores. Blanket statements coming from hearsay rather than actually reading the manufacturers technical documents or the relevant standards are how bad building techniques get propogated.

@@JonSenior I only know this form the Structural integrity testing done here in Canada and the results of the hurricane chamber and seismic room and every time the OSB vertical Failed Catastrophically and the OSB horizontally staggered held up and actually surprised us at how well it Preformed and did not fail but most of all the houses tested held up ....this is why it is recommended to go horizontally staggered

@@SaerTurner That´ll be the staggering that does it, not the orientation then. Which makes perfect sense, if the joints are aligned then you have shear lines which would be points of failure. Here in France, and in the UK, seismic activity is rarely (if ever) at a level where it poses a threat to buildings. I can understand that in north america the situation is not the same. I personally prefer studs on 500mm centres and horizontally staggered cladding, but this is not a standard european construction technique.

@@JonSenior I love these kinda Chats I am learning lots about building in European country's and differences of building codes and mandates and I also have to remeber yall in Metric over there here we frame rake walls at 8inch to 12 inch centers comman walls exterior 16 inch on center interiors 24 inch on center and here is the fun one we do engineered floor joists and trusses at 19.2 centers this one always baffles people what are your standard or common spacing

Yes, grow a pair of balls.

The gap matters more, as the expansion and contraction on a flat roof with a dark roof covering is more, there are tongue and groove OSB ideal for flat roofs and these allow for the gap in production

Best to use OSB T&G boards for any flat roof, boards come in 8 x 2 with a built in expansion gap, T&G are particularly recommended for fibreglass roofs.

Robin Clevett perfect thank you !

Rob Norman thank you 👍🏼

Yes mate 50s are ok

plus he would not have to mark out the stud centers like he did as the other side has nailing lines on it for 16 24 and 19.2 centers

and his nails are to deep the must set flush or the structural value is gone .....Rob come on your better than this ..love ya but

Our OSB has no nailing lines they also recommend that the side with the writing should be laid so it can be see by the building inspector, in our case on this build there was no sheathing specified and I added it as we went for rigidity and making a more sturdy job, the OSB we have has exactly the same face both sides and the writing does not indicate which face should be in or out, I have never seen in the UK OSB with the nailing lines as we use 400mm centres and sometimes 600mm centres so the 16 inch and 24 inch would run out, I really like your comment many thanks

@@ukconstruction smooth both side oooh that would be fun on a 6-8 in12 pitch roof slippery here in Canada we have a ruff side and smooth side and ruff side ... ruff side has nail lines as we have lots of cross eyed framers that cant shoot in a straight line lol smooth has the print and is always down as after we put the walls up you can not see any thing but the Tyvek or paper on the out side ( we paper or tyvek the walls on the ground befor standing just like we build the rood on the ground and crane it up faster and safer ...we use OSB on walls floors and roofs and joists lol ........even have a framing lumber made like OSB here too dont trust it though .............random fact OSB is to be installed horizontally staggered for structural............ ply wood should be hung vertically for structural Ply wood on the horizontal will cup and pop the nails after time as the house sets ... I love OSB sheeting its stronger and alos uses up the scraps from the mill and now also Recycled materials ...... Cheers .. one again love ya and your videos .... .............. what is the worst mistake you have ever made ........ mine was building a house 2 ft to short but it worked out in the end because of the Easement lines got lucky

How strange!!! I have done both!! I still have a set of roller skates too!!!!

@@ukconstruction Gawd...now I have to go through the vid again just to learn how rollerblading legs move ..!

Yes mate always 90mm for framing and then 63mm for the sheathing

@@ukconstruction cheers mate. Appreciate the response

@@ukconstruction always Ring shank on framing or sheathing or does it depend on the nailing schedule?

Galvanised ring shanks 63mm

Hi Mate for sheathing like this I was using a 3.1 x 63 heavy duty galvanised collated nail from Paslode

@@ukconstruction Hmmm.... 🤔I'm living in Norway and here all the nails shorter than 75 are 2,8mm thickness. Strange...

John so tell us how you know please.

Failed code?

@@grantcook5376 Im guessing all the sheathing fell off the timber stud walls on his farm buildings....

How do you know?

@@grantcook5376 Overpenetration of the nails will cause a reduction in sheer strength and result in a failed inspection. It's likely a heightened concern in high wind/earthquake areas, at least here in the States.

You could break your ankles on a kerb, I know where your coming from but with experience you just never catch the protruding poles!!!

Thats why its a Chippie up there, Joiners don't like to venture too far from their workshops...lol

@@ukconstruction I think you misunderstand my comment,I reefer to the gap between the scaffold boards which is the danger where you could catch your foot and twist the ankle without adoubt.

@@RobNorman08 A chippe ? isnt that where you get a fish from ? forgive me if Im mistaken but its a Joiner on a roof not a Chippe.

OSB costs way less, has a more uniform density and believe it of not is stronger than plywood structurally, Its not much good when open to the elements but perfect in cases like this where it's to be clad.

Even in the elements I'd say its probably better seen a few sites fenced off with osb and it lasted a few years

@@martinknight9027 OSB sufferers terribly when exposed to the elements in comparison to ply mainly because although ply absorbs moisture quicker than OSB, ply also drys quicker and returns pretty much to its original shape, OSB retains the moisture, doesn't dry as quickly and swells up irreversibly.

I agree Rob they recommend to line a shed with osb not ply for moisture reasons so see both have pros and cons

@@RobNorman08 I did my summer house partly with OSB and the back wall in ply. The ply got soaked in a rain storm and was destroyed. The OSB had no signs of damage. I replaced the ply 1 year later as it was all rippled and didn't go back to original shape when dry. Not only did the ply permanently damage but there were woodlice all over it... woodlice hated the OSB which was like the day I laid it.

our roof light members allow once the window is fitted that the top is level from the frame and the bottom is plumb from the frame, so in effect the roof light opening is made bigger to accommodate this feature, If you lay your head trimmers flat you loose the strength maybe I will do a video now we are all tiled and the windows are fitted and explain this situation, this is also the NHBC and building control approved method for roof window installation

Ah nice one

Actually, everyone that reads the instructions on the sheets and understands them does it.