Thank you!

Yes Dave, that is mentioned on the video description, but thanks for the reminder for everyone.

True

We did.You can see it here.... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNSUn6ZqzJusqoU.html

@@SaveGreenHere Thank you!!!!

Thanks 👍

Even electrical seems high.

Great share, yes, very important, it was done prior, but also ensure you fix the loose connections BEFORE adding!

Please show me how to charge it from empty (for multi-zone). Thank you

Paper wadder: Please show me how to bleed the line. Thank you

Multizone senville minisplit. Had a leak and will be removing all the remaining (likely very little left in the system). Removing it by using an evacuation pump into a separate cylinder. This will remove 410A from the compressor as well all line sets. Note: This multizone system has a manifold with a set of “king valves” at the top of it. One king valve for the vapour line and one king valve for the liquid line. The vapour line king valve has a 5/16” port on it. These king valves are the separation from the compressor behind the manifold and the rest of the system. Lower on that manifold are the line sets and each line set zone has“service valves” that when opened, allow flow thru to each connected line set. So, the king valves AND the service valves are open during the evacuation step noted above. After that, pressure test with nitrogen and locate /repair any leaks. Vacuum test down to 200 microns and confirm it holds it there. At that point, the system is tight and ready for fresh unused 410A to be added. My system factory charge calls for just under 6 pounds, according to the label on the side of the unit. My question is…do I close the king valves and add into one of the line set’s suction port as it is weighed in…and will the line sets hold all the 6 pounds of 410A, then open the king valves which then the 410A will make it to the compressor and I then start the unit up to circulate all thru? The last step and if the king valves should be open or closed during all the steps is what I am unclear about. Very much appreciate if you can enlighten me on this. Thank you…

AWESOME! Glad you got it, and glad you are cooling now!

Fix the leak!

Great to hear!

Glad to help. However, you may have a really small, slow leak if you need recharge every two years, and should try to find out where the source is. It may be at the ends. Try this, it works extremely well, and use it when you have to add refrigerant again, and you may never have to add refrigerant, as it's a closed loop system.... amzn.to/3edDJsX

SaveGreenHere techs have checked everything and even new line sets and pressure test. They told me (2 different companies) that the flare fittings are what leaks and are a poor design. I loved these ductless units in the beginning but I would never do this again and cannot recommend them anymore.

@@Captfuntastic You need to use this. Otherwise, you are asking for it...... amzn.to/33zQLz6

SaveGreenHere tried that already

@@Captfuntastic Flares made right don't leak, mini splits are great, a good flare tool matters too

Great to hear!

Glad it helped!

Yes! Gloves: amzn.to/3Rfg5SL Faceshield: amzn.to/3VATnaC

Correct. A split second is enough until you see refrigerant come out, so you can purge it.

SaveGreenHere oh ok thank you so much for the info am gonna do that today 🙏🏼

You should be fine!

@@SaveGreenHere , do you have a video on how to get the R410A out of a wall unit and into the compressor so that I can replace the wall unit?

Thanks for the info Dean!

Yes, while charging, you must run in COOL MODE. Purge the lines BEFORE charging.

Yes, sounds like you should be fine. It will be very critical, to use the sealer, amzn.to/367xEf2 to ensure no leaks at the connections. Hope you have your refrigerant already. Ebay seems to still have it, but there's an industry push to eliminate sales on the web. You can get 11 pounds for $107 delivered to your door, and that's not bad considering retail market prices.... rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575339965&toolid=10001&campid=5338199104&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FR410a-R-410a-R-410a-Refrigerant-11lb-tank-New-Factory-Sealed%2F202661144956%3Fhash%3Ditem2f2f8ba97c%253Ag%253Au0YAAOSwz4Zc%257Er2V%253Asc%253AFedExHomeDelivery%252133990%2521US%2521-1%26LH_BIN%3D1

Yes it needs to be running. Not a stupid question at all.

Did you open the valves from the compressor to the lines? Towards the beginning of the video, he said don't try and add refrigerant to these ports. Ask me why I know? Been there, done that. Once you have the lines all connected, take the caps off and open the valves on both the high and low, you should hear a hissing sound as the preloaded refrigerant goes from the compressor to the lines. Open the valves all the way until the stop and then see if you get the heating and cooling desired. This is somewhat off the top of my head recalling from a couple of years ago, but I think there was also set of a master valves on top of the individual ports on my unit as well, so you might want to check that as well.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for sharing!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNSUn6ZqzJusqoU.html

You are correct. I'm not sure he mentioned this being an inverter system. That being said, I'm installing a couple of inverter systems. I forgot I wanted to check pressure running at full speed. I will do that when I'm finished installing the second system.

You're not ready for this bro.

There is usually an emergency function button somewhere on the interior unit that will allow you to turn on the AC even in cold weather

You are welcome! On your question, my Paypal is savegreenhere@gmail.com Thanks, much appreciated!

Gonna send it tonight or tomorrow, thanks

Hey Mo! You are welcome! The other videos we uploaded cover that...... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNSUn6ZqzJusqoU.html and kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mMWRrNZ21bSwlac.html

Get this.... amzn.to/3VoUy9N and see the video on how to use it here.... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nreagsuI0K3RfWg.html

Do this running in COOLING mode.

Yes, and in cooling mode.

Put ball valves on, like these.... amzn.to/2Q0jO81

@@SaveGreenHere I have not seen those, but that seems like a great way to do it. Thanks!

Great points! Yes recovering completely and weighing is key, and mentioned in the video description.

Thanks.

Yes, we mentioned that on the written description of this video.

Depends on size of the unit, and the outdoor temps.

Thanks!

Has to be on cool mode.

On. And on cooling mode.

Get a leak detector, super cheap....... amzn.to/3SIpuTO and get these for the flares...... amzn.to/3WEBiaH Your costs would be $65 plus refrigerant. Wait a few weeks after, and check the coils with the leak tester. Both indoor, amd outdoor coils. You can check the flare connections both insode and outside too. If you do not have a vacuum pump, those are also around $65-$85........ amzn.to/46NYAQk a micron gauge will help with the pump...... amzn.to/46IvWQp

Yes, I got the sniffer and await the arrival tuesday of the 410a (5 lb can) I also ordered the flare washers, though I also have the nylog blue(my first thought) and a good husky flare tool if needed. . My HVAC guy said I could just pull a vacume (then change out the yellow tube from the vacume pump to the refrigerant, purging that line as per you, and then it would pull the 2.65 pounds(I have a scale to get exact amount though likely to lose a bit in the hose and the dissconnect process) in without running it (with the refrigerant upside down of course), much like the original release on initial install. If I pull a vacume, I will be unable to purge the blue line(with refrigerant) as it will be holding that vacume (valve closed after using the vacume pump).I suppose I could do all this with the vacume and the unit off as per HVAC guy, and then do your method of "sucking it in" via running it on cool if the vacume does not suck it in . My plan was to seal the joints at the lower unit, particularily the 1/4' line that seem to have oil around it, fill up the unit and check all the joints with soapy water and my sniffer as well as inside the coil in the air handler and other wise see if it hold pressure over time. Hopefully it is not the coil outside and I could sniff that out..

Yes you do

@@SaveGreenHere thank you so much. And another question, i have a problem with my liquid line that was leaked and lose all the refrigerant inside the hole. After that my inside unit has some noise. Hence i need to fix my liquid line and cleaning the liquid line of the insides unit. Could i pump down like the way you show on the other video and fix the liquid line?

Yes, and in cooling mode

That was a 9000 BTU system and the temp was around 100 degrees in the Summer.

There have been some variations with some manufacturers and models, so look at the manual. It's there on the ones we have installed.

no don't charge that much. those are max pressures for the system. you will blow something up if you charge that high. Charge to 38 degress F on the R-410a scale on the low pressure gauge (this should come out to around 110-120psi)

Unit has to be running.

Static pressure has nothing to do with refrigerant. 200psi Is wayyyyyy too much

@@arodandjeter1 even when unit is off ?

Yes

new unit should have come charged.

Turn both zone on to the lowest temp highest fan and charge from any port or port A if it has a mark.

Make sure you are in cooling mode when following the tips from Tom Jong

@@SaveGreenHere I have a three zones system was leaking, now the PSI turns down only 50-60. Some one told me to release out all of refrigerant and recharge full amount as factory required. Please show me how to release out of refrigerant. Do i need to turn the system on while fully charging, and what port i have to connect for that. Thank you very much.

Yes, and in cooling mode!

Yes, it needs to be running, and in COOLING mode.

​@@SaveGreenHereShould inverter be set-up and run on 100% speed and 60 fahrenheit? Thanks for the video, very informative 👍

Same question. Can this be done in heating mode?

Did you ever find out what the psi should be for a 24k system? Mine says 550 high side 340 low side for design pressure. I can’t seem to find how to translate that with how this video describes.

@@Celohyoudee For future reference, that is DESIGN pressure, meaning the pressure that the system can safely withstand before catastrophically rupturing somewhere. Design pressure is NOT the normal operating pressure of the gas. Operating pressure will be lower. Manufacturers do not specify operating pressure because there are too many variables. That's why they specify charge weight.

Running. And on cooling mode.

Yes

Same question, I'm seeing Hi 550 PSIG and Lo 340 PSIG on a Senville 09CD

@@AlekseySmolenchuk Those are test pressures.

Yes, for one split second bleed out any air on the hoses.

CH35 means you are seeing the low pressure sensor error. This error can be caused by any of the following causes: Overload operation (outdoor fan constraint, screened, blocked) Refrigerant leakage (insufficient) Bad connection of the pressure sensor Bad compressor sensor Bad PCBA You should check for any leakage, or if there are any blockages on the unit. If you are still not able to fix it, we recommend a local contractor to have it diagnosed. lghvac.com/professional-locators/contractor-locator/.

If you have removed all the refrigerant from the system than you should put back the specificfication weight of 410a.

@@robertberin4872 what port do we have to use to fill up refrigerant? (for multi-zone unit). Thanks.

10 to 15 minutes.

You're very welcome!

Needs to be on, and in cooling mode.

All valves closed except the blue one. Best practice is to vacuum out the lines, done before video). Weight the refrigerant on a scale, according to what the label on your unit says, Example, 1.5 pounds. Slowly, open the blue valve, and let the unit run on cool, and open the blue valve and allow some refrigerant, and let the unit stabilize for 15 minutes. Adding refrigerant is a step that requires patience, and the proper tools. Unfortunately not many have either, lol.

Yes, on COOLING MODE.

Yes, it was asked, but no worries. Run in COOLING mode while adding.

Turn it upside down, open and close slowly in small increments.

@@SaveGreenHere ok thnkyou...

Get this 7.5 pound jug, it will be more than enough...... amzn.to/36szXYQ

Read the manual

Yes, if it's a heat pump. You may have low refrigerant, or reversing valve issue.

Low refrigerant will not get you cold air in the summer time on cooling mode.

It won't work on heating either. These are a heat pump, they essentially move heat, just depends on which way they move it as to heating or cooling. Either way, low refrigerant will cause it to not work, or either mode.

Yes, it needs to be running, and on COOLING mode.

Yes and it was done. You can also see here on some steps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iNSUn6ZqzJusqoU.html You should also ensure there are zero leaks in your system. Because refrigerant is a closed loop system, not addressing a possible leak means you will be buying more refrigerant AGAIN in the future. Fix the leak, vacuum the lines, as shown here.... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mMWRrNZ21bSwlac.html If you have a leak on a mini split, 9 out of 10 times it will be on the connection. That's where this simple fix (with the system having no refrigerant) comes into play..... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nreagsuI0K3RfWg.html

Ok thank you

I was wondering the same thing. It wasn't covered on the video it seems.

No, do not close. Closing will reseal the lines to the compressor and no refrigerant will flow.

@@spazzman90 Thanks

ALWAYS add wit unit running in cooling mode. You will always lose a bit when removing the fitting. Nothing major.

You're welcome

Add refrigerant in small increments, and wait 12-15 min before checking temp and pressures.

@@SaveGreenHere Do I shut the gauges down tight or leave them open and go check temperatures. I don't mean to be a bother just want to get it right, thank you.

Open when you add, close when not adding.

@@SaveGreenHere Got it! Thanks I really appreciate it!

@@SaveGreenHere I followed your directions exactly. My low side gauge totally tacked when attached. I tried to release the refrigerant as you said but nothing happened. Not sure why my blue gauge tacked backwards? Any tips?

Yes, the scale method is the most accurate like this one but many don't have it amzn.to/3wbW71h

Thank you so much!